Discussion Topic |
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 15, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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East, West, Red, Blue, Sport, "Trad, Christian, skeptic, whatever.
I mean, there's got to be some sort of common denominator on this site?
Post up if you know what I mean.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 15, 2014 - 10:45am PT
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Granite is the jizz of the Gods.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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F*#k off Justin!!!!!!!
It's not a religious thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!111
I knew this would happen..........
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 15, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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No doubt about it, granite is the worst climbing medium.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2014 - 10:58am PT
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My friends are like: "come to kalymnos with us!! We'll rent a house and live like kings and climb like Sharma!"
Then I think about granite. And sleeping in the dirt.
Not sure why but it sounds much more interesting to me?
My nose slowly turns upward in their direction.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jul 15, 2014 - 11:22am PT
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Good for slab climbs
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 15, 2014 - 11:27am PT
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Pardon me,
would you have any Grey Poupon?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 15, 2014 - 11:44am PT
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When it's good, it's very very good.
And when it's bad, it's choss
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Jul 15, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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I beg your pardon, but Dakota sandstone and quartzite are somewhat superior.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jul 15, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
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Granite may be the jizz of the Gods, but ain't snob and granite climbing a contradiction among terms?
Edit: Some of the best climbing in Norway is on granite - in the western part of the country.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2014 - 12:53pm PT
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It's true my affliction of being confined to only the most upper echelon of stone on earth should purely be a geographical constraint.
But.
I'm cool with that.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jul 15, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
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And when it's bad, it's choss
What, you don't like Jenga?
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Jul 15, 2014 - 01:19pm PT
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In all the years I've been in the Potrero Chico I've met hundreds of climbers but only a small handful who didn't like my limestone paradise and they were all California granite snobs.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jul 15, 2014 - 01:23pm PT
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Limestone is confusing, I prefer granite.
Sadly, the closest crag for me is all schiesty.
Isn't quartzite closely related to granite?
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Jul 15, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
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No, quartzite is a sandstone.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jul 15, 2014 - 01:25pm PT
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My bad, I was thinking of something else I guess. Brain fart.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
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Nobody ever said anything about not liking other types of rock Magic Ed. I've climbed on lots of different rock, & I like all of them. But, am especially attracted to one special family of stone, generally of granitic origin.
I have visited Potrero & even bought a slightly confusing guidebook from you at your house in about 04.
It's fun there & we had a blast. Yourself and the rest of the locals were great. So I am knott trying to knock anybody's rocks. If your sh#t is better in your eyes then post it up.
That said, it's not granite.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jul 15, 2014 - 01:40pm PT
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Destined to be a great (climbing, thank God) thread !
I never realized what a granite snob I had been.
After a very long (18+ years of Hawaiian residency) sabbatical,
I returned to the mainland and after a bit moved to Vegas.
Pretty much year round climbing...
but on sandstone and limestone if you are to beat the cold of winter and heat of summer.
Not till I started spending the majority of my climb time on sandstone...
did I realize how foreign it felt at first and hence the realization that previously...
I had been a proud snob :)
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jul 15, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
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Well, Gill is right, sort of.
Sandstone/quartzite is better for this:
and this:
and that:
and even this
But granite is great for trad climbs
and you can climb cool formations like this:
which looks like this:
and that:
when you're up there climbing
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 15, 2014 - 04:05pm PT
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Yes more Yanqui. Granite grows steep too.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Jul 15, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
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Loving this thread. Granite is indeed the best.
Where is this?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 15, 2014 - 06:05pm PT
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Looks like where that is is on the Malemute.
"Coast Range Batholith", barf. That's the Coast Plutonic Complex, the largest piece of granite in the whole world.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 15, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 15, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
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chalk
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 15, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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Nice guys!!
I love this stuff!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2014 - 06:39pm PT
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You must be some sort of n00b DMT. Everyone's been using blue chalk when bouldering for at least 5-6 years, you just buy blue chalk line powder from ace hardware. Way cheaper, plus it's cool to have smurf hands.
At least you are a granite snob though.
Edit- hey thanks everyone for posting up, lots of good stuff that I mostly don't have to turn my nose up at.
Yanqui always has killer stuff. Check out his shots on http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2182677&msg=2182677#msg2182677
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 15, 2014 - 06:42pm PT
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Heisenberg chalk DMT.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 15, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
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It's crushed up viagra from Tijuana.
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MH2
climber
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Jul 15, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
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Other kinds of rock have climbs with great personalities, but it's hard to beat granite for drop dead gorgeous.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Jul 15, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
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OK, I'll admit, granite can be fun when you're off the ground. Free soloing about fifteen years ago here in southern Colorado.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 15, 2014 - 06:57pm PT
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Jefe that patina pic reminds me of this
Or
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jul 15, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2014 - 01:24am PT
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...
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Jul 16, 2014 - 06:08am PT
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MH2, where is that beautiful piece of stone?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 16, 2014 - 09:41am PT
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King of stones
If you cut me open, you'd find a bumper sticker with "I HEART GRANITE" pasted to my soul.
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Braunini
Big Wall climber
cupertino
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Jul 16, 2014 - 10:12am PT
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I keep reading the thread title "I am a granite climbing noob"
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:48am PT
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Haahahaa! Heisenburg chalk
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
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You are projecting braunini, just stick with it.
Working towards mastery of all shapes and sizes of granite climbing is a worthy objective IMO.
Mark F I think MH2's shot is from up on the prow wall of the Chief. Some really sick shots here.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 16, 2014 - 03:06pm PT
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Isn't the blue chalk the Cerenkov stuff rather than Heisenburg?
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Friend
climber
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Jul 16, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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Prime season for classic granite bouldering up at Black Mountain
Cracker Boy
Tour de France
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 16, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
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Some granite climbing is ridiculously low angle
Some steep.
and it cracks well
Great thread
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jul 16, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Jul 16, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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Oplopanax, is that Snootli (sp?) Express in your 2nd from bottom photo?
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Jul 16, 2014 - 04:42pm PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 16, 2014 - 05:02pm PT
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Well, glad to hear that I am not the only one. I passed up a lot of climbing because it wasn't granite. And I've never had a problem with being a granite snob.
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MH2
climber
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Jul 16, 2014 - 05:07pm PT
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That's what I like, fgw.
Mark Force, that is one of several wide cracks on a crag near the Sea to Sky Gondola Summit Plaza.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 16, 2014 - 06:59pm PT
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 16, 2014 - 07:15pm PT
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I beg your pardon, but Dakota sandstone and quartzite are somewhat superior.
definitely true for bouldering.
all apologies to squish.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Jul 16, 2014 - 07:26pm PT
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"Coast Range Batholith", barf. That's the Coast Plutonic Complex, the largest piece of granite in the whole world.
Doubt that, after driving in Canada and seeing the Canadian Shields Map the area of the Coastal Range Batholith seems a lot smaller.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
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Maybe so Dingus, but the Canadian Shield doesn't seem to stick out of the ground enough that a climber could care about it as much as a hay field in Kansas.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 16, 2014 - 09:48pm PT
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Aiguille St Exupery
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 16, 2014 - 10:03pm PT
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Did someone say "granite?"
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jul 16, 2014 - 10:25pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 16, 2014 - 10:31pm PT
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I'm sorry
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:31pm PT
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Yet unclimbed corner on a famous dome a short distance from major road in a national park --
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jul 16, 2014 - 11:43pm PT
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awesome!!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 17, 2014 - 12:32am PT
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Jul 17, 2014 - 05:16am PT
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Finally I can say it too and know that there are others out there who understand.
I only want to climb on granite. Good granite.
Limestone? Are you kidding me!
Wingate sandstone can be good training for granite cracks.
Basalt? Well at least it's related to granite. It's not that bad really. Quartsite? Lets keep driving till we get to some granite.
How can anyone not think granite is superior?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 17, 2014 - 07:38am PT
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How can anyone not think granite is superior?
When they've tried to climb in the San Gabriel Mts. Technically they are granite, but...
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jul 17, 2014 - 08:21am PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat, what I want to know is how did that granite get out there on the British Virgin Isles? I've got to go look at some geology maps.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 17, 2014 - 08:28am PT
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Granite is superior for alpine and alpine rock climbing but it is not superior for cragging. Most of the major alpine areas....Patagonia, Alaska, the Karakorum, the Mont Blanc region are granitic. In the US the major alpine rock areas the Sierra's, Wind Rivers, Sawtooths, Black Canyon (gneiss) and the Diamond are granitic .
When it comes to cragging worldwide limestone reigns supreme with major contributions from granite, sandstone and basalt.
If you climb only in Cali you best be a granite snob because that's what you have bro.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jul 17, 2014 - 08:32am PT
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Ahhhh, the Ho Bich Schisty Islands, must have been the result of a particularly deep thrust!
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Jul 17, 2014 - 08:45am PT
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couple more colorful granites
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 17, 2014 - 10:22am PT
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The Canadian Shield is largely gneiss and other old, heavily metamorphosed rocks - billions of years old - rather than sweet, fresh off the magma chamber Cretaceous granite like the Coast Plutonic Complex.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 17, 2014 - 10:31am PT
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rather than sweet, fresh off the magma chamber Cretaceous granite like the Coast Plutonic Complex. Yes, keep talking dirty, I'm almost there.
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Lollie
Social climber
I'm Lolli.
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Jul 17, 2014 - 10:46am PT
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It's all granite. I'm thrilled to find something else.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 17, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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Mission Gorge is some kind of weird metamorphic schwag, ain't it?
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Jul 17, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
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Glorious sexy granite....RAWR!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 17, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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I mean, there's got to be some sort of common denominator on this site?
I thought this thread was it when I thought it was titled "I am a granite climbing slob."
Oh well, I admit that most of my favorite climbs are granitic, even though most of my first couple of years of roped climbing were on metamorphic rock at Pinnacles, Little Table Mountain, and similar places.
John
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 19, 2014 - 11:23pm PT
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Wanna get on Fight Club Ryan? Or Wild Turkey? Or Turkey Shoot? Any of the wide flaring things up there. I need to get burled.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2014 - 12:44am PT
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Speaking of granite snobs. Hello Nathan, yes I would like to do those climbs.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 20, 2014 - 06:34am PT
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YO!! If you guys go for wild turkey, gimme a call!! Grug wants to see some shots on that one and i would enjoy shooting it very much!!!
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
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Jul 20, 2014 - 07:30am PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 20, 2014 - 07:37am PT
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Granite is great but thank god limestone, sandstone, basalt et al are out there giving climbing almost infinite variety. I had a great time on limestone yesterday and will be out there again today!
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
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Jul 20, 2014 - 07:41am PT
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Paradise!
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
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Jul 20, 2014 - 07:44am PT
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Limestone, sandstone and basalt all deserve their own "snob" thread.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 20, 2014 - 07:49am PT
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Geological rock distinctions are fine...but I am a "climable rock" snob.
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
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Jul 20, 2014 - 08:02am PT
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Geological rock distinctions are fine...but I am a "climable rock" snob.
Ahhh...climbable rock...the best there is!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2014 - 09:11am PT
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Good morning Donini.
Shouldn't you be in church?
I hear you are in Squamish in September? Hoping to meet up and turn you into a granite snob, don't worry though- I know where there is some limestone not far off in case the granite gets boring ;-)
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 20, 2014 - 10:18am PT
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Well I'm free the rest of this week after Tuesday (and I kinda want to get on something wide tomorrow) so if the weather works out and you want to get out, let me know.
Mike, if you want to get some up close shots on Wild Turkey, I got enough static line to reach from the top of the Bulletheads down to the campground ;)
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Jul 20, 2014 - 10:28am PT
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In the interest of chest beating, and cause Ryan put a picture up of it, I got my name in a guidebook (update)
Here's a shot from the apex point on the FA
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2014 - 10:31am PT
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jul 20, 2014 - 10:45am PT
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What's the ghost icon mean? Scary problem?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2014 - 10:51am PT
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Haha everyone is famous
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jul 20, 2014 - 10:55am PT
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I can agree with the photos I see in this thread....
You all have every right to be snobs about your granite and thumb your noses at the Basalt and Limestone tarts/lessers out there.
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jul 20, 2014 - 11:51am PT
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Chuck Pratt once described a rope as "sort of virginal". When asked to elaborate, he said "It hasn't been used on granite yet".
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jul 20, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 20, 2014 - 06:56pm PT
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one of the wildest 5.7 pitches anywhere
Granite Mtn
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 20, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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Sounds rad Nate!! After work styz?
So cool Ryan... Thanks!
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Jul 20, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
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Yeahhh.....Granite!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Jul 20, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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Nice one of Candyland, drljefe!
Best single crag I've ever climbed at (includes Britain, Tahquitz, Suicide, and the Valley).
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jul 20, 2014 - 11:27pm PT
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The subtlety of granite is it's best attribute.
You gotta transcend, and try unlock the rock's secrets.
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7SacredPools
Trad climber
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
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Jul 21, 2014 - 05:20am PT
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Hey Mark Force and Hooblie, where were your pics taken? Looks beautiful!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Jul 21, 2014 - 06:46am PT
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Granite Mountain, Prescott, Arizona. Highly recommended. Has everything. Be aware the older routes have old school ratings.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 21, 2014 - 09:15am PT
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Is the sixth photo in the OP the Choir Loft at Church Dome?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2014 - 10:56am PT
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Ksolem it's a route called "burning down the couch" at petrifying wall near Squamish.
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MH2
climber
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:07am PT
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Admiration for the Squamish guidebook celebrities.
Granite Mountain is a heart-palpitating temple of granite.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:15am PT
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Have you been there MH2?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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The Rowell route on Four Gables...
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MH2
climber
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Jul 21, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
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I tried to get to Granite Mountain in 2009 but at Paradise Forks my partner took ill. Still keen to get to much of Arizona, especially Cochise.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 21, 2014 - 01:57pm PT
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MH2- keep us high on your list, AZ delivers.
And what Mark Force said is pretty right on.
As a single crag, Granite Mtn holds its own.
Rare that essentially every route is recommended or considered classic.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/granite-mountain/105787785
This guy took his game to Yosemite and would still vouch for the Mtn.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Jul 21, 2014 - 02:10pm PT
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Thanks, Reilly! I added it to my list!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 21, 2014 - 06:09pm PT
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Ya know that kinda looks like, like omg it totally looks like a....... badasss crack to, arete, to maybe like a roof. I'm so sure, like what did you think I was going to say. I'm so sure, whatever!
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Jul 21, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
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Granite porn
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 21, 2014 - 07:17pm PT
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Granite porn? This should get you off...
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Jul 21, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
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Yep! Looking at granite pics in public always draws funny looks
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 21, 2014 - 09:00pm PT
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
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Come down with Big Mike in September Ryan. I have some practice FAs with your name on it. You don't even need a brush.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 21, 2014 - 11:32pm PT
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Coast Mtns granite. Bonus points for the name of the climber and the pinnacle.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Jul 22, 2014 - 04:16am PT
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About to head out snobbing. Will try to post pics later.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 22, 2014 - 04:57am PT
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7sacredpools,
Here's the same boulder, taken 30 years ago
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| Messages 1 - 113 of total 113 in this topic |
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