Discussion Topic |
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Quasimodo
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 13, 2014 - 12:29am PT
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We were climbing a couple of routes on the south face of Tahquitz today. Both CHP and Sheriff choppers buzzed by us a half a dozen times between late morning and 5 pm. Around 6pm the sheriff chopper made two passes to drop two rescuers, one at a time, at the base of Lunch Rock. The free raps out of the quivering chopper was impressive. It appears Riverside Sheriff and Search and Rescue were training early in the day on the summit of San Jacinto when the distress call was made. As we walked down to the parking lot, seven more Sheriff and Search and Rescue we coming up the climbers trail. One member of the Search and Rescue told us the fatalty was on Who Done It and they were doing a "recovery".
The news (see link below) has it as a hiker death. It is tragedy for the family and friends of the victim. My condolences to loved ones of the victim. It was a somber walk down the trail for me and my partner after a fun and safe day of trad climbing. Reminds me that any great day could easily turn bad in a blink of an eye. Each day breathing is a gift.
http://blog.pe.com/breaking-news/2014/07/12/idyllwild-hiker-falls-dies-near-tahquitz-peak/
I was impressed by the effort of the rescue team. Except for the two very lucky boys that got to rap in from the chopper, the rest of the team labored up the climbers trail at the hottest time of the day, with a litter, heavy long pants, beefy black boots, Nomex long sleeve shirt and expedition weight backpack. Those boys were working hard. I bet they are working into the night tonight. I can't imagine carrying a litter down that steep and loose climbers trail. The Sheriff's staff get paid but I believe that most of the Search and Rescue guys we saw on the trail are volunteers. Cheers to the selfless volunteers for doing the grunt work!
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 13, 2014 - 12:36am PT
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Grim. Heard the helos in the air today...oddly, the thought struck me that an incident had occurred.
Condolences to all involved.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 13, 2014 - 12:50am PT
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Condolences to those involved. I know far too many people who frequent that place on weekends. Heard about the accident earlier this afternoon and have been waiting with baited breath... this is terrible.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jul 13, 2014 - 07:33am PT
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What a piss-poor write-up by that lame ass Press Enterprise. I feel as if I know less now after reading that article than I knew before I read it.
I swear, every story that paper posts includes the sentence "No other details were available".
We know that isn't true. Quasimodo, by accident, did a better job of reporting what happened than the newspaper, even though he's not even a professional journalist.
"No other details were available."
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tamberly
Trad climber
san diego
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Jul 13, 2014 - 08:18am PT
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We were at the 2nd belay ledge on The Error and were approx. 50 feet below the climbers when the accident occurred. We watched the leader ride a large block before he flipped. This block (roughly 5 FEET long, 6-7 inches thick, 3-4 FEET wide, proceeded to bounce and break into many huge rocks directly overhead missing us only by inches. It is possible the leader climbed on or near a known loose block next to a bolt (the bolt was placed so climbers would not use this block) just above the dogleg pitch on Sahara Terror. We were able to contact two other climbers on Who dun it who were able to climb above and establish a safe rap and rapped down to the fallen climber.
The climbers were on Sahara Terror and the leader was climbing approx 30-40 feet above the belay on the pitch above the dogleg.
We remained at our belay for several hours and assisted ground crew in communication with the two climbers assisting. We eventually rapped off the route at the request of rescue workers.
Be prepared for more loose rock on Sahara Terror, and possibly a new blank section.
Condolences.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 13, 2014 - 08:22am PT
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Sahara Terror takes another one of us. That area is one to be careful on for sure.
One of these big man-killers hanging by an old tree root over on East Lark too.
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Ward Trotter
Trad climber
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Jul 13, 2014 - 10:14am PT
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In the 1980s my partner and I topped out on Fingertrip and noticed groups of climbers near the summit area , and plenty of shouting. We knew something was up.
We soon learned there had been a fatality on Sahara Terror.
The leader had dislodged a good sized block which plummeted to their belay below ---striking his girlfriend and thereby amputating her arm. Apparently she bled to death long before anyone reached her.
My partner and I drove back to LA , literally speechless the entire drive.
Condolences, to all involved , both then and now.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 13, 2014 - 10:19am PT
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The last time (early 90's) I took a n00b up Sahara Terror I was amazed at all the loose stuff
still up there which I constantly pointed out, when possible, to my brother.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 13, 2014 - 10:44am PT
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We originally intended to do Sahara Terror last weekend. It was occupied so we did The Error instead.
It seems like I have ended up on ST about every other year for the last 25 or so. Every time that block has been a little looser.
Condolences to the survivors and rescuers.
Edit,
After rereading the eyewitness account it sounds like this happened right after the dogleg.
That pitch has always been notoriously loose and seems to change a bit every year.
The bolt, and that loose block are a pitch up and past the crux.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 13, 2014 - 11:29am PT
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Sorry for the loss!
very fun route, but with too many loose blocks!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 13, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
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Awwwww....this sucks bad! My sincerest condolences. Funny thing is I was real close to going to Tahquitz on Saturday specifically to do that route...but life got in the way. The last MP comment post does look rather ominous.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jul 13, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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hey there say, tam... i had wondered if this was the same place you were at... i had seen your facebook post (and how scary this was)... :(
a very hard thing go through... :(
edit:
just learned of the lost climber's name...
my sincere condolences, to the family, and his loved ones...
prayers for you, as you move on, without him... :(
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overwatch
climber
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Jul 13, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
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Sorry for the fallen and those left behind.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jul 13, 2014 - 02:47pm PT
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Really sorry to hear this. Condolences to the family and friends of this person.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 13, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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I'm so sorry to hear about this. Condolences to family and friends.
Sahara Terror was one of the first climbs I did at Tahquitz when I was a noob in 1974. We thought it was pretty tough. "If that is 5.6 imagine what 5.7 is like!" We had a small rack of Troll(?) hexes and Forest stoppers. It took all day. Might of even been on my dads Goldline.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jul 13, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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Very Sorry and condolonces...First time up Sahara Terror in 74 wearing Robbins boots...Ugg..! Next year , armed with EB's , my friend carelessly knocks a small block off nailing my brand new rope and damaging it..I remember tip toeing on the loose block that eventually killed the poor lady..
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 13, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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Maybe Tamberly can confirm this, but I suspect the lower circled flake may have been the one triggered.
Its always scared me a bit passing it.
The upper circle is about the location of the other block with the bolt next to it.
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Skywonger32
Trad climber
Long Beach, Ca
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Jul 13, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
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Super sad day in the mountains yesterday. Thanks to all of those who volunteer to complete these rescue and unfortunately sometimes recovery missions. A member of RMRU said he may post the mission report.
Condolences to family and friends of the fallen climber and his partner.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Jul 13, 2014 - 06:06pm PT
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Every day is a gift,
My sincere condolences.
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tamberly
Trad climber
san diego
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Jul 13, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
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TGT is exactly correct. The block came from the lower circle in his photo, as witnessed by Tamberly's husband (who is writing this). It hit a slab that ejected the block (and pieces) over to the climbers on The Error. I have no idea if the climber caused the block to fall, or if it happened after he passed it. I do not have any other information to add as I only had about a half second to see what was going on before trying to get out of the way of the falling blocks. My condolences, it was a sad day.
Now that that block is gone, be extremely careful as you do not know what is left hanging in the balance.
HI WENDELL
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Steve P
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 13, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
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My name is Steve and I'm a close friend and climbing partner to Bryan who had the fatal accident at Tahquitz yesterday. Thank you for all the thoughts and condolences from the community. Bryan had only been a climber for a few years but truly connected to people through climbing. His first climb was in Joshua Tree and he was completely hooked. His favorite book was Desert Solitude by Edward Abbey and would often share stories from the book during our climbing weekends. Bryan lived in San Diego for the past decade or so and enjoyed sharing stories, drinking Jack Daniels, and running marathons. He was a multi-talented individual that dropped down to part time work so he could write a novel. He spent two and a half years on the novel and finally completed it last month. He was my daily running partner for almost two years and he never mentioned that he went to college at Princeton and it only came out when I asked him where he went to college. He was the type of guy that accomplished a lot in his life but never took himself very seriously. He will be missed. Thank you to all that were part of the rescue and recovery.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jul 13, 2014 - 07:11pm PT
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RIP Bryan.
What a shocking event for his partner, friends, family and the other climbers at Tahquitz.
For some reason, this death is rattling me. I've never climbed at the legendary Tahquitz so I don't really have any "connection" with this horror other than the brotherhood/sisterhood of the rope.
Something that's easy for us all to forget: the mountains are eroding/collapsing downwards. Inevitably everything gets looser. Boulders wedged in cracks, flakes, gravel on ledges, thank God holds, overhanging teeth, even pinnacles.
I am sobered to see the several comments on Mt Project about that "boulder".
Some time ago there was a thread on trundling. I was against it. I'm rethinking that ethic for sure.
Again, I am greatly saddened to hear of this death and the young woman who died quite some time ago.
My condolences to all.
Fred Glover
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jstan
climber
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Jul 13, 2014 - 07:15pm PT
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This is another awful loss. Let me ask.
Should a half dozen people who are most familiar with Tahquitz sit down with Park people and consider our best response to this? Could be nothing. Could be something.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 13, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
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Steve P- Thanks for sharing and so sorry about your friend.
Climbing can grab ahold of us and just as quickly take us away.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 13, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
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Hi Tamberly!
Jstan.
I doubt that there's anything that could have prevented this. Tahquitz is an ALPINE! crag in now an almost urban setting.
That flake was held in place by a trigger block that has been probably injudiciously yard-ed on thousands of times with no consequence to the unsuspecting.
Other than maybe some education thru the web sites that have now replaced guidebooks, not sure what else could be done?
Sometimes there is no trigger.
Gravity just wins and mass wasting takes on a more somber meaning.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 13, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
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Should a half dozen people who are most familiar with Tahquitz sit down with Park people and consider our best response to this? Could be nothing. Could be something.
I climb there regularly, perhaps 20-30 days a year. Almost any route has a loose block, some several. Just last year I witnessed two huge rock falls on popular routes done weekly. It is just a dice roll, no matter how you look at it.
Suicide has great routes, incredible rock (arguably better pound-for-pound than tahquitz) and varied history with minimal loose rock. I suggest that weekend visitors at least spread out to other crags more as it appears there were climbers below. I've had a friend get hit by rock fall from another party above on Edgehogs, it's no fun. We should all exercise more caution, myself included.
It's such a damn shame. There's so much of this big beautiful world to love to leave so early and too many people who love you back. Wish I knew him, he sounds like a good guy.
Greg
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 13, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
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My condolences to Bryan's family and friends.
Rick
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jul 13, 2014 - 07:49pm PT
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thanks for the tribute steve. so you have any more info about bryan's novel? your brief description of your friend makes me think that it could be a good read...
my thoughts go out to both of you. i am guessing this will be one of the worst days you have ever had, well i hope that you have never have had worse, and i hopoe you will never have to endure anything like this again. be gentle on yourself and keep good people around you. make sure you eat well, and the more you share your story the more you will heal.
the mountains will still be an amazing place. i am so sorry for your loss.
peace,
j
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 13, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
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For friends and family, very sorry for your loss. Always a sad day when something we all live for causes so much sadness.
Been over 20 years since I did Sahara T. and I still remember climbing the route and thinking about the woman that lost her arm and her life on it, as it was a pretty well known story going around at the time.
Lets all remember to be careful out there!
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jstn
Trad climber
monrovia, ca
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Jul 13, 2014 - 08:17pm PT
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My partner wrote the "ominous" warning on MP in September last year after we finished Sahara Terror. The location of his warning is the exact location of TGT's lower circle in his photo. Interesting that jstan considers what could have prevented this, or the next one.
After finishing Sahara Terror, my partner and I, both immensely frighted to touch the block, considered ways to do something about this. (I read another climbers similar reflections about the 1980's fatality here on supertopo.)
To safely trundle the block would be quite the coordinated effort, which could certainly be done. (At dusk/nightfall, rappelling down, 3 or 4 ... or more people clearing the impact zone, and standing clear themselves.) But, not without great risk to the trundling party and any undetected passers by. In addition, it may or may not make matters better and it may create new loose debris. Anyhow, we , like most who consider this, went home after a great day of climbing.
My dearest condolences to the friends and family of Bryan
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jstan
climber
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Jul 13, 2014 - 08:42pm PT
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The devil in it is after you trundle a block for all you know you have left something that will in time pose an even greater danger. And if guides point out all the questionable rocks, who's to say something not on that list will be the one that goes.
We try to keep a comprehensive record of rock falls in Yosemite. Do we have an activity like this for Tahquitz?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 13, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
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Not a bad idea. Not one yet.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jul 13, 2014 - 09:00pm PT
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This is horrible news, thank you to all who took part in the recovery and I pray his partner is surrounded by friends right now.
Tahquitz has always held a ominous vibe for me. I have never climbed there but have climbed at Suicide for 30 years always looking across at Tahquitz and would kind of get a knot in my gut. I think part of my not ever climbing at Tahquitz stems from climbing at Suicide the day the woman was killed after getting her arm chopped, after that I just had little interest and stuck to climbing at Suicide. I take that back, I did the first pitch of the Vampire before being run off by a thunderstorm. I have climbed loose rock all over the Sierra but just cant bring myself to climb at Tahquitz, stupid, I know.
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Steve P
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 13, 2014 - 09:00pm PT
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@ Tinker B--I don't have much information about his novel. He sent it out to a few people after he finished the book. I was one of the few that got the opportunity to preview the book. He sent it to me the day after we returned from doing Sahara Terror(2 weeks ago) and I've only had time to read ~30 pages and they are mostly setting the stage and writing the background of the characters. It was great to see him integrate personal stories into the text. I read a passage in his book and instantly remembered how he told me the story sitting atop Hemingway buttress in J-Tree. It was like finding an Easter egg or getting an inside joke. When we were returning from Tahquitz a few weeks ago, he was telling me how he was starting to look for a publisher and was working with an agent. I asked him, "What if you don't get it published?" He immediately responded, "I don't care. The story has been in my head for years. I had to release it."
I do hope the book still gets published and his legacy continues. I'm sure that his wife, daughter and friends will do everything we can to make it so.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 13, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
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Nice tribute Steve P. Condolences for you and the family of Bryan.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 13, 2014 - 09:21pm PT
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Steve, please give our condolences to friends and family. Very sad indeed.
I understand that Sahara Terror has always had some loose blocks, and that the north side is looser than other parts of the crag. However, I've climbed at Tahquitz since the late 70s and have witnessed only a single instance of rockfall, not surprisingly over by Sahara Terror. Now, it just seems to be more common (along with a lot more rescues). Is it just more climbers and hence more hands tugging on stuff, or more people just tugging on stuff that others knew better to avoid or tread gingerly? I wish I knew. Perhaps jstan's suggestion is one to consider. If it lessens the chances of serious injury or death, why not help Mother Nature accelerate the exfoliation process?
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ß Î Ř T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jul 13, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
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We watched the leader ride a large block before he flipped. This block (roughly 5 FEET long, 6-7 inches thick, 3-4 FEET wide, proceeded to bounce and break into many huge rocks directly overhead missing us only by inches. It is possible the leader climbed on or near a known loose block next to a bolt (the bolt was placed so climbers would not use this block) Brutal, but I appreciate the candor.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Jul 13, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
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Steve, thank you for that write up. I know that must have been hard and emotional to do.
Bryan sounded like an amazing person. Just the love of Edward Abbey's Desert Solitaire made me a little misty cause he sounds like someone I would have loved to know. That's one of my favorite books of all time so I can relate to him. I'm so sorry for our loss of him.
Very tragic and always sad to lose one of our own.
Condolences to his friends and family. And kudos and thanks to all of you who helped in the rescue and have helped piece together how this accident took place.
Beth
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jstan
climber
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Jul 13, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
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If there is to be an activity tracking rock fall it would be a cooperative effort between climbers and the Park personnel.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 13, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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So yesterday this route claims another with major rockfall. And sincerely all of us as a group, a tribe as it is, are shocked and try to empathize with those close to the fallen.
But I have an idea. If you are looking for death defying stunts on loose rock with a track record of killing and maiming people, go to the Canadian Rockies, or the Devil's Crags in the Sierra; someplace where you know what the game is and you take your chances with your eyes wide open.
All this talk about Sahara Terror being such a great moderate route is hogwash. A climb like this at a local crag should be avoided like poison.
And I have trouble calling Tahquitz an alpine crag. A short approach and no bivies (unless you don't belong up there in the first place). Sections of it are just a dangerous loose pile, other parts are fantastic. Pick and choose...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 12:17am PT
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I am sorry to hear of this fatal accident... my first climbs were at Tahquitz, but that was quite some time ago and I don't recall much detail, and most certainly never climbed Sahara Terror. And I never knew the victim.
We all travel in a vertical world where the steepness compels things to fall. The boulders we play on around the base, the scree and talus we all walk on during our approaches and descents all are evidence of this. This all happens on a mammoth scale, but over a times so much longer than our lives and even of many generations of lives that we hardly notice it. Massive rock fall can happen and not even be noticed, the landscape altered, but looking so much like all the other places nearby. Unless we have some particular familiarity with the specific landscape we would have difficulty describing what has changed.
And in this moving landscape we seek our adventures. Over decades of climbing I've had many close calls from rock fall, fortunately resulting in no more than a bad bruise, and a thoughtful pause to contemplate what could have been.
And plenty of loose blocks have been pulled on, and many of those trundled as a consideration of other climbers who might venture those ways. But the nature of rock is to erode and fall off those cliffs, inexorably, until there are no more cliffs for it to fall off of, until the valleys are filled up.
We cannot escape that force, we can be lucky, we have been lucky. But every once and while one of us is unlucky. And it is a tragedy, everyone of us feel that it could very likely have been us.
Our decisions to climb a particular climb represents our choice, and we all know the risks. This horrible story will be told, and future climbers will be much more careful choosing that climb, at least for a while. Some of us might go up and clean the loose rock off the cliff there, what rock we find to be loose, but there is plenty more of it, so that, too, will only last a while.
Being careful and choosing well is something we can all do, but we have to accept the fact that while we can behave in a way to reduce our risk, there is no way we can eliminate those risks, unless we just stop going to those places we are so drawn to.
My heart felt condolences go out to the friends and family of climber and to the community of Tahquitz climbers.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 12:57am PT
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My most sincere condolences to Bryan's family and friend's. This kind of accident makes us all feel sick.
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karen roseme
Mountain climber
Bishop
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Jul 14, 2014 - 06:48am PT
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So sorry to hear about this tragedy. Bryan sounds like such a great guy.
I'm glad he got to finish his book.
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:12am PT
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Very sorry for your loss SteveP. Sounds like he was a great friend and human being. Condolences to family and friends.
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:30am PT
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Peace to Brian's family and friends. Another tragic event, wife children and friends missing a loved one. Tragic deaths always hits me hard, be carefully out there my friends.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jul 14, 2014 - 07:42am PT
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This is such terrible news. I'm so sorry for the friends and family.
Thank you for giving us some insight to who Bryan was. He has a kind face.
Tahquitz, has always held an ominous vibe for me. There's just something dark and serious about it. The winter loosens new rock every year. Route finding is often convoluted. Accident reports are common. I've just never been able to love the place.
My first trip there, over decade ago, we climbed Sahara Terror. My partner chose the route. I was familiar with the former fatality associated with it but figured it must have cleaned up with all the traffic.
It was a bad choice. I couldn't relax, I was nervous all day and couldn't enjoy the climbing. The ghost of that girl followed me up the entire way. When we got to that spot above the dogleg pitch...I looked up at that rock hanging in that section and felt a pit in my stomach. A short argument ensued, he saying so many people have climbed over it, it must be OK. I won out and convinced him to lead up the the left side to get around it. We were slow. We got off route in the upper pitches and had a nerve-wracking finish in the twilight. My first and last up that particular climb.
Stay safe friends. Hug your loved ones.
RIP Bryan.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 14, 2014 - 08:23am PT
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Rockfall is the soundtrack of Tahquitz. The north side in particular seems really loose. Except for White Maiden, I've only done one route over there. That was with Batten, and this one pitch was ultra-scary, nothing but rubble, had to climb on tiptoes trying to avoid touching just about everything.
RIP Bryan.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 14, 2014 - 08:33am PT
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Tragic event.
SteveP thank you for telling the tale, it’s better to know than to speculate.
I offer my sincere condolences to all of Bryans family and friends.
Guy Keesee
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 14, 2014 - 08:33am PT
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Jstan and others raise the question, what should be done? This flake had been known a long time. No one can clean them all off or certify a cliff safe, but there's precedent for carefully trundling some of the worst.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 09:04am PT
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Wouldn't budge
I'm not trying to start something negative or impugn the goodness of the deceased but there is
something to be said for learning the ways of the mountains in the chossy environs of the
Cascades or Rockies. If a block scares me I won't even touch it, if possible, let alone try to
trundle it - too many ways that can go badly for you or someone you don't know. Usually a
soft tap will tell one all they need to know, but that won't do for a big block as the tap will only
confirm it's mass, not how well it is ensconced.
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robd
Trad climber
Riverside, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 10:12am PT
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I wrote the comment of warning on the Mountain Project page. This route was always talked about as being a game of Jenga nearly finished. After climbing it the first time I didn't feel it was THAT bad. The conditions at the time were certainly manageable. My views on the reputation of the route were changed the third time I climbed the route and saw this block. I feel horrible that block claimed Bryan's life. My heartfelt condolences to his wife and daughter as well as his friends.
I keep thinking about what I could have done differently to address this hazard and others like it in the future. I am not talking about every little hazard or potentially hazardous condition on the rock. I am talking about "death blocks" with hair triggers like the one in this case.
I am not confident that trundling was the answer in this case as the fall line was very unclean. An uncontrolled removal of this block could have created a domino effect making lower sections of the rock just as hazardous or even more hazardous than the initial condition.
Could we "close" the route or post a warning at the base? I feel this is opening a can of compressed backlash. What are the legal ramifications in a sue happy society? Would the sign be taken down similar to a bolt deemed unacceptable being chopped?
A controlled removal of such hazards could be done. The logistics of such an operation would be beyond my comfort level. Not to mention the possible liability. What if something went wrong and someone got hurt?
I am pained by Bryan's death and by knowing his wife will never again see her husband and his daughter will never again hear her father's voice. I am especially pained because I was aware of the situation and only posted a warning when there must be more I could have done.
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Steve P
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 10:13am PT
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Just wanted to share a few more pics of my dear friend, Bryan. He kept the picture off him on Sail Away as wallpaper for his phone. Another close friend shared a pic of him with his hand on Bryan's shoulder during a half marathon and said, "He was always there when you needed him and always gave more than he took."
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Jul 14, 2014 - 11:01am PT
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Terrible tragedy...may Brian's wife and daughter find peace one day.
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Guernica
climber
dark places
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Jul 14, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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Damn it, what a sweet soul. Thanks for sharing those pics. Biggest possible love to those who are hurting terribly right now, and warmest smiles for your spirit's continuing journey, Bryan.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 01:25pm PT
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Another thanks to Steve P for reminding of us the human side of this tragedy. Too often it is too easy to write off these events like these, or even blame the victim. Sometimes it's important to stop and reflect on the loss, rather than the facts giving rise to it. It reminds me of a John Donne poem my high school English teacher forced the class to memorize:
"any man's death diminishes me,
because I am involved in mankind,
and therefore never send to know
for whom the bell tolls;
it tolls for thee."
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greiswig
Trad climber
Cornelius, OR
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Jul 14, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
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All,
This is my first post to ST. I haven't climbed in a number of years, actually. I'm posting here because Bryan was one of my best friends from junior high school on through high school. We kept in touch after that, but not as much as I would have liked; we talked shop about climbing last year at our High School reunion and mused over the possibility of getting together to do something up at Smith Rocks here in Oregon. Or if I flew down there at Tahquitz, which he dearly loved. We also shared an appreciation for Ed Abbey.
It strikes me as a little cheesy to post here like this, but after reading this whole thread, I'm reminded of one of the things I loved about climbing: the tight community. People pushing themselves to personal limits, but doing it together...there is something unique about what that does to your relationships. I'm reading through all the condolences here with the knowledge that they are true and heartfelt. Thank you for that. And I extend the same to all of you who knew him, and to his family.
And I share in thanking the rescuers: I've done a bit of technical SAR work, and it is hard, risky, and usually you're not even insured if anything should happen to you. So thank you for risking your necks.
That looks like a pretty, relaxing climb. From what I read here, you are all doing your best to notify people of known dangers on routes. I don't know what else you could do. This is a risky sport, and all participants know it. I am comforted (slightly) by the belief that he would much rather have gone this way than to die of some lingering disease or in his car in an intersection. He liked purpose.
Bryan will be sorely missed. Stay safe, all.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 14, 2014 - 01:36pm PT
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Thanks for the reflection, greiswig.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Jul 14, 2014 - 01:46pm PT
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"He was always there when you needed him and always gave more than he took."
That is the definition of a true friend.
RIP Bryan.
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The Lisa
Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
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Jul 14, 2014 - 01:49pm PT
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My condolences to Bryan's family and friends. I love seeing the photos of him climbing - and running marathons :)
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overwatch
climber
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Jul 14, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
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I agree, for what it is worth, maybe a report of some kind on recent rockfall like Yos
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jul 14, 2014 - 02:22pm PT
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This is another awful loss. Let me ask.
Should a half dozen people who are most familiar with Tahquitz sit down with Park people and consider our best response to this? Could be nothing. Could be something.
I remember very well when the woman bled to death on Sahara Terror in the 80's and the route has been notorious for loose rock in the 30 years since. I'd certainly be in favor of an assessment being done of that route/area--perhaps under the aegis of one of the SoCA climbing organizations.
I don't think it would be that difficult for a few climbers, preferably with some engineering experience, to inspect the route and come to a consensus on whether on not it would benefit from an effort to remove the obviously loose rock. The goal would not be to offer future climbers a guarantee, of course--but, let's face it, Tahquitz is more an urban crag than an alpine crag and ST is something of a trade route there.
If the assessment indicates that something can be done to improve the situation, discussions can then be had with Park officials to see if they agree and to coordinate the operation, with respect to safety, etc.
If the assessment indicates otherwise, nothing is lost except for the little bit of effort required to reach that determination.
Curt
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 14, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
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With all due respect to Bryan and any future climbers, I am sincerely skeptical about the idea of a large-scale project aimed at removing loose rock along the North Face of Tahquitz.
There is an awful lot of loose stuff up there, and there is a lot of surface area to assess & 'clean'. The resultant effort...if it could ever be mustered...would make a tremendous mess of the North Face, and likely just become a never-ending cycle of loose rock being created by the removal of loose rock. (Not to mention the tremendous aesthetic & environmental damage, risk to others in the area, and damage to surrounding routes.)
With no intention towards being callously trite, I think that Tahquitz is what it is, and needs to be accepted on those terms.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jul 14, 2014 - 02:37pm PT
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Could be. I would do the assessment first and then reach conclusions, however--instead of the other way around.
Curt
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yedi
Trad climber
Stanwood,wa
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Jul 14, 2014 - 02:42pm PT
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Very sad, my condolences. I learned to climb there and Suicide and have been up most of those N. side routes at one time or another. Seemed like a major undertaking and dangerous back then, but always an adventure. Climb safe and NEVER let your guard down!
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ColinQ
climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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Bryan was my direct supervisor at work for many years. I work in the cube next to him. I can personally attest that Bryan was one of the finest people I've ever met: caring, super-smart, giving, and extraordinarily talented. He wasn't just a coworker, he was a good friend.
I will miss him terribly, as will we all here. My deepest condolences to his family and friends.
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greiswig
Trad climber
Cornelius, OR
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Jul 14, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
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FWIW, I suspect Bryan would have been against the idea of cleaning the rock of loose flakes and similar problems. I can't say for sure, but that's my guess. Warn people? Sure, or at least see to it that there is available information for people who are seeking information like that. But as for a systematic effort to rid the rock of dangers even in part, I think he would have respected the rock more than that...as well as peoples' right to make their own choices.
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Steve P
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
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Many thanks again for the wonderful support from everyone in the climbing community. I created a memorial website for Bryan for people to share thoughts, condolences, etc. I would invite anyone from the climbing community to share a thought on his memorial page. As I mentioned in a previous post, Bryan was relatively new to the climbing community and his family and friends didn’t always understand the attraction of climbing because of the risk involved. It would be wonderful to share the support from the climber community with the rest of his family and friends on his memorial site. Hopefully, with time and support, climbing will be viewed as a deeply supportive and understanding community and not just a sport that claimed the life of a loved one. Here is the link:
http://www.forevermissed.com/bryan-rockwood/#about
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Kelby
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 04:45pm PT
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Steve
Very sorry to hear about Bryan
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Steve P
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 06:09pm PT
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@Kelby--Is this Kelby Burnham?
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Kelby
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jul 14, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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It is! I emailed you my cell #. Gimme a shout brotha
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Aging Trad
Trad climber
Austin, TX
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Jul 15, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
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Did this a couple of years ago and have a recollection of climbing over/around a block about 4’ wide x 8’ tall x 8-10” thick that had seemingly slid down until the base of it was sitting against the trunk of a tiny pine about 4-5” in diameter that was sticking straight out from the wall – appeared to be the only thing keeping the block from sliding right down the wall. :-0 Terror is right!
My most heartfelt condolences to Bryan's family and friends.
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bootysatva
Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
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Jul 15, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
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I have spent many hours soloing on Tahquitz to remove loose rock over the last 40 years. Some of the rocks we removed were up to 6 ft x 3 ft x 1 ft. The north face will never be safe from loose rock and attempts to make it safe will only make it worse and damage fixed protection.
The Sahara Terror is a pretty loose affair as well, and easy to get on moves that feel like 5.9.
The trough has a block stack that defies gravity as does Ziggy Stardust.
The north Buttress is going to let some big slabs lose soon as well.
Best wishes to the family and friends of our fallen brother.
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jstan
climber
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Jul 15, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
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From the above link.
JesseM
Social climber
Yosemite
May 26, 2011 - 02:31am PT
Best if YOSAR works it out with NPS and drops it deliberately, taking due precautions to secure the landing zone. If it's done by a pirate, there'll be all hell to pay.
Minor Correction:
YOSAR is a part of NPS-EMS operations. They are not separate organizations.
Hmmmm...If any visitor/tourist snuck through a closure and was hit by a piece of the fall out from that bomb...We can't allow that to happen so how to deal with this safely?
We've been thinking of this block for well over a year. Yes, there are liability issues with cutting a block free. Yet, look at Roger Brown's photo and think of all the blocks that are teetering in Yosemite. We all can think of several. It's tough to establish this precedent...but actually we've done it before.
I admit, this one is different given its location and likelihood to fall. A mid-(hot)summer or mid-winter mission would be best when less climbers would want to come to the base. My plan would be to climb to the alcove with Jake one day in mid-August and stay there that night. That week we would need to monitor the wall to make sure no one was starting a Big Wall route. We tell climbers ahead of time that we will be closing that area for this operation. The evening before with help from other Rangers/SAR we would sweep the base to ensure no one was sleeping there or staring a wall route. Then we would temporarily close the base with several trail blocks. At dawn personnel does one more sweep of the base and then one of us rappels down the Monster Offwidth and cuts the block loose.
It's been difficult to arrange this mission, and I wish we had already taken care of it. Just let me emphasize that this is not a standard operation, and please don't just tell the pirates to deal with this one. There are lots of folks down there often...a little different than trundling in a remote canyon.
Jesse McGahey
Yos. Climbing Ranger
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Jul 15, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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Horrible news! So sorry to hear, my condolences.
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Steve P
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jul 16, 2014 - 08:09am PT
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Does anyone know the two climbers that helped with Bryan's accident? They were climbing on Whodunit on Saturday when Bryan fell and were able to meet up with Bryan and his belayer until the rescuers arrived. Bryan's wife is looking for them to thank then for their help. I know their names are Sanji and Demitri. That is all I know and any help with contacting them will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
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Brian Allen
Trad climber
Palm Desert
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Jul 16, 2014 - 08:52am PT
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Steve - I noticed the two climbers who helped posted on the Sahara Terror page at mountain project. Could probably PM them from there.
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Kironn Kid
Trad climber
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Jul 16, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
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Truly sad news. I lost my best friend up there too.
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Michael Nicholson
Big Wall climber
Thousand Oaks
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Jul 16, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
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This is tragic! Condolences to the family. RIP
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jstan
climber
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Jul 17, 2014 - 09:36am PT
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I had an idea, wrote to Greg Stock. Here is my note and his reply.
Jstan to GStock
A question inspired by recent deaths due to rock fall. Do you suppose the bearing points for a block might be better known if the block was caused to respond to a hammer blow while a stethoscope was being used? Sort of like what is done in seismic studies. Perhaps you are already doing this.
Gstock to Jstan
We have utilized this kind of "sounding" to determine the spatial extent of rock slabs and it worked surprisingly well. I wasn't using a stethoscope, but could clearly hear when my partner, who was tapping on the cliff about 50 feet below, reached the end of a crack and got into solid rock (we subsequently monitored that area for a few weeks to listen for cracking). So I do think that approach has merit for understanding how firmly anchored (or not) a rock slab might be, but of course one must be very careful as the tapping could actually dislodge the slab.
So that everything is in one place I repost Jesse’s note here also.
JesseM
Social climber
Yosemite
May 26, 2011 - 02:31am PT
Best if YOSAR works it out with NPS and drops it deliberately, taking due precautions to secure the landing zone. If it's done by a pirate, there'll be all hell to pay.
Minor Correction:
YOSAR is a part of NPS-EMS operations. They are not separate organizations.
Hmmmm...If any visitor/tourist snuck through a closure and was hit by a piece of the fall out from that bomb...We can't allow that to happen so how to deal with this safely?
We've been thinking of this block for well over a year. Yes, there are liability issues with cutting a block free. Yet, look at Roger Brown's photo and think of all the blocks that are teetering in Yosemite. We all can think of several. It's tough to establish this precedent...but actually we've done it before.
I admit, this one is different given its location and likelihood to fall. A mid-(hot)summer or mid-winter mission would be best when less climbers would want to come to the base. My plan would be to climb to the alcove with Jake one day in mid-August and stay there that night. That week we would need to monitor the wall to make sure no one was starting a Big Wall route. We tell climbers ahead of time that we will be closing that area for this operation. The evening before with help from other Rangers/SAR we would sweep the base to ensure no one was sleeping there or staring a wall route. Then we would temporarily close the base with several trail blocks. At dawn personnel does one more sweep of the base and then one of us rappels down the Monster Offwidth and cuts the block loose.
It's been difficult to arrange this mission, and I wish we had already taken care of it. Just let me emphasize that this is not a standard operation, and please don't just tell the pirates to deal with this one. There are lots of folks down there often...a little different than trundling in a remote canyon.
Jesse McGahey
Yos. Climbing Ranger
The authorities managing these public lands are between a rock and a hardplace. They have a lot of good people and we have a lot of good people. Maybe if we work more closely together we will find answers we did not know existed.
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EmEl
Trad climber
Montana
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Jul 17, 2014 - 09:35pm PT
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I remember the incident in the early 80's when the gal got hit. My boyfriend witnessed it. Soon after another friend fell and hit a ledge. She lived. It just seems like more tragedy happens a Taquitz than other places. I am very sorry for the ones who lost their people.
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