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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 17, 2014 - 11:37am PT
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Long time New England climber with many first ascents under his belt who has done his share in Yosemite. He was my partner on my first big wall (the Salathe) in 1971. Steve spent a week with me in Yosemite this April, 44 years after we first met in the Valley.
A lot of you don't know this but Steve got, not one, but TWO Purple Hearts while serving in Vietnam. That's service to your country.
When Steve posts here he is always positive and never has anything but kind words to say.
Damn....I just knew he wasn't perfect
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steve shea
climber
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Jun 17, 2014 - 11:42am PT
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Yup, Steve is a good guy and still climbing after all these years. I hope I run into him in NH this summer.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 17, 2014 - 11:44am PT
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Wooo Hoooo!!
Thanks for being awesome Steve!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jun 17, 2014 - 12:22pm PT
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Climbed with Steve four or so years ago at the Creek, super cool guy and great partner. Still got excited about climbing, had a great day at the 4x4.
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Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 17, 2014 - 12:30pm PT
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Don't know much about him, but Steve is featured prominently in 'Fifty Favorite Climbs' with a story about the first ascent of VMC Direct Direct, Cannon Cliff, White Mtns, NH which was apparently done while on leave from Vietnam.
Google his name and you can read the excerpt in question in 'FFC' (I tried to add the link but it was skewing the thread width)
He also holds the first ascent of a Big Wall at Cathedral, called, 'Pendulum'
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
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Bump for the evening crowd.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jun 17, 2014 - 06:26pm PT
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I remember being in High School and doing one of my first walls, an early ascent of The Prow. Steve had just done it solo a week or so before and we were amazed that a guy could be up there like that, all by his lonesome. He was one of the silent hardcore types, a lot like an old cowboy, and they always had their "sand."
JL
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 17, 2014 - 06:36pm PT
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I grew up in fear and awe of the Arsenault routes on Cathedral, then made my peace with them as they eventually allowed my humble passage. To this day, his VMC Direct Direct remains one of my favorite climbs anywhere.
I finally got to meet the legend a couple years ago, climb with him, and admire his wood turning. Always stoked, friendly, and either a little bit bold or crazy (the jury's still out on that one)...
Cheers my friend!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jun 17, 2014 - 08:33pm PT
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SteveA is a positive poster here for sure and I've enjoyed what he has posted on the Show me what your building thread. Two Purple Hearts? Wow thanks for your service Steve and for putting up routes that I need to climb some time.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 17, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
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Met Steve a couple years ago with Donini, Joe Kelsey, twp and several others. Steve and I climbed together the first day on mid summer dome. There were 4 parties we were with which included the guidebook author for the range, Donini, and steve who had put up most of the big routes in the east fork valley. Despite their centuries of combined experience No one knew what routes we were on. I think Donini and Kelsey beat us all to the top.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 17, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
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The mention of Steve Arsenault always evokes memories from the history of New Hampshire climbing, he shows up in the "history" in Paul Ross' 1978 guide...
...so it is hugely inspirational to know that Steve is not just history, he's still climbing!
Wonderful!
Bravo!
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Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 17, 2014 - 09:04pm PT
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'He was one of the silent hardcore types, a lot like an old cowboy, and they always had their "sand." '
Holy hell fire, that's some good writing. Maybe one of the best sentences I've read in a while...'...always had their "sand" '. (And that's if I understand it (or even if I don't.))
I've read Gorilla Monsoon, Wall Rats and Hang dogs, the Anchor Books, the Rock & Ice pieces over the years (etc) and loved the prose - but that was sweet. Almost lyrical.
Saving that somewhere.
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MH2
climber
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
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I sat at a table in Emil's with Steve in the Spring of '68. You could tell by his eyes that he had been places you weren't sure you wanted to go. It is a joy to find him still climbing, but we need that photo of him hanging on a rope at Cathedral giving the photographer the finger. I've checked the Cote guides '69 and '72 and Mountain 21 and beyond those, memory comes to a cul-de-sac.
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OR
Trad climber
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10:11pm PT
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A real hardman…….Nice reading his bio….
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10:47pm PT
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A genuine hero, unlike most of the the rest of us posers. Here's to Steve!
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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Jun 17, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
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I still remember when you guys did the salathe. Now days it would be considered an early ascent of the route. When I think of routes Ive done over the years I don't think of the climb as much as i think of the partners i did them with. 44 years and friendships endure.rgold is right the rest of us are just posers.
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losbill2
climber
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Jun 18, 2014 - 05:47am PT
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Here is a post from NEClimbs I put up in 2009.
You are only as old as you feel.
A couple of years ago I turn a corner at my local crag and spot one of the old, broken, decrepit posters (OBDP) on this thread sitting on a rock. We exchange greetings and chat for a bit. As we do we watch a group of 4 teenagers climb. They were young enough to have to be driven by a non-climbing Dad to the crag. I then belay OBDP on a couple of 5.10+ (old school) top rope pitches. My partner shows up and we move on.
A couple of hours later I return. There is OBDP climbing with the four teenagers. They are top-roping a hard 5.10 the OBDP had FA'ed 30+ years ago. OBDP has taught them to hip belay since the face is high enough he had to tie his two ropes together to set up the toprope and he didn't want to bother with passing the knot.
Hard to tell who was having more fun. The OBDP had the kids climbing 1 to 2 grades harder than they had been and regaling them with tales of his 40+ years worth of climbing adventures. The kids were eating it up. The OBDP had a huge grin on his face. It was clear to me the OBDP's passion and joy for climbing and sharing the joys of climbing with others had not waned a bit over the years.
You are only as old as you feel.
I will let you all guess who OBDP is.
BTW the last time I saw Steve was late in the afternoon last fall at Cathedral in North Conway. He was sitting on the first pitch belay ledge of The Book of Solemnity bringing his partner up with a huge grin on his face. Steve did the FA of that beautiful climb in 1976.
Climb On Steve!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jun 18, 2014 - 06:27am PT
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WoW, this is a surprise!
Jim, your so kind to initiate this thread, and thanks to all the rest of you guys for the perhaps, undeserved praise. As far as the purple hearts--I just happened to be in the wrong place, and there really wasn't anything heroic about it.
I've posted this picture before, but since my son was the person who informed me about this thread; here is a photo of my son Mark, and me last June, the day after climbing the RNWF of HD.
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Jun 18, 2014 - 06:44am PT
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SA- one of those purples was for all the f/a's in the east and wounds due to bugs !
Rock on SA !!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 18, 2014 - 07:29am PT
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Here is a chapter from Mark Kroese's superb Fifty Favorite Climbs that features Steve and one of his best efforts, the VMC Direct!
I have great respect for your service and admiration for your climbing and building skills! We are stoked that you are still on fire about climbing and share yourself with us on this forum.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jun 18, 2014 - 09:26am PT
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I have to agree with Barry, Jim, and rgold.
The guy is as tough as they come, but modest and a kind human being.
Like they say: the real deal.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jun 18, 2014 - 09:37am PT
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Hey Phil,
Thanks for those remarks, but my kids think I'm a grumpy old man, and I have to admit--often I am.
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OldEric
Trad climber
Westboro, MA
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Jun 18, 2014 - 10:04am PT
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I've known and climbed with Steve for many years - mostly obscure MA places (Waban Arches), Crow Hill (he has more ascents of Cro-Mag then everyone else put together), but I've also run into him at The Gunks, Cathedral, the Tetons etc. Always a class act and inspirational.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 18, 2014 - 10:19am PT
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The fact that the proposed recipient was participating in direct or indirect combat operations is a necessary prerequisite, but is not sole justification for award. The Purple Heart is not awarded for non-combat injuries.
Enemy-related injuries which justify the award of the Purple Heart include: injury caused by enemy bullet, shrapnel, or other projectile created by enemy action; injury caused by enemy placed land mine, naval mine, or trap; injury caused by enemy released chemical, biological, or nuclear agent; injury caused by vehicle or aircraft accident resulting from enemy fire; and, concussion injuries caused as a result of enemy generated explosions.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 18, 2014 - 01:48pm PT
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jun 18, 2014 - 01:54pm PT
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Mike,
That picture makes me smile, Jim looks like he has fallen asleep, and I look tired, and OLD. That was BEFORE the climb, which at 10D, Jim led flawlessly, and on-sight!
I still recollect, on the last pitch of the Salathe Wall, back in 1971, I was jumaring up to Jim, and he had fallen asleep, at the belay. It was a long 5 days.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 18, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
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Good times. Are you going to the winds this year? Gonna try to take Jack for the first time during my annual escape from the motorcycle rally in early august.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jun 18, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
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Mike,
Check your email.
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Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 18, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
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Maybe overkill on my part, but I love climbing history and enjoy a research project now and again....
In Yankee Rock & Ice by Laura and Guy Waterman is the following passage:
"This brief flirtation with advanced aid techniques produced the Northeast's one true master of that art before the heightened ethic of free climbing rendered it largely obsolete. Steve Arsenault, who blossomed in 1967 and 1968, marched to his own drummer. In contrast to the Yale-Harvard-Princeton backgrounds of so many prominent eastern climbers of the day - even the Vulgarians were mostly college men, though not Ivy League - Arsenault was a self-made, largely self-taught master craftsman. He started to climb with the Boston AMC, but his earnest enthusiasm and evident raw talent proved passports to the society of the best climbers of the east...."
The same book also makes mention of Steve as an early designer/pioneer of nuts, making his own stoppers in 1966. Steve - Do you still have any of your early designs?
In other literature, it is stated that Steve is the first New Englander to climb El Cap. (Perhaps that was the Salathe Wall climb with Donini??)
A cool TR with photos and videos of The Pendulum: http://nickbullock-climber.co.uk/2013/02/13/the-pendulum-swings-an-account-and-a-short-film-of-something-different/
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Jun 18, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
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You stay away from those LLamas... and the DD is the best route on Cannon
Damn, your old
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 18, 2014 - 04:53pm PT
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Kudos for Steve for a long and fulfilling career! He's one of the original eastern unsung heroes who climbed widely throughout the states and even in Europe. Nice to know you're a survivor!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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It was a pleasure to meet SteveA at the Facelift this year, and relink him to his old friend jstan.
It's only reasonable that we apperciate Steve.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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Steve is the man! Still getting after it.
Cheers,
Matt D
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D_Meschke
climber
Pinedale, WY
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Jun 20, 2017 - 09:57am PT
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Had the pleasure of hanging out with Steve in the East Fork Valley last summer. Didn't climb, but had a good time listening to stories of the climbing greats and him pointing out routes and features as far as the eye could see. Great guy, very humble and a pleasure to talk to. Hope all is well, Steve.
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