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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 1, 2014 - 10:11pm PT
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Anyone know if there's any random obscure multipich at Malibu creek? Even if it's like a 5.0 scramble? There looks like there's potential for some long routes, but my guess is the upper stuff is just chossy and not worth it?
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Chris Cunningham
Trad climber
San Francisco
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How close to Malibu do you need it to be?
I have scouted what would certainly be an FA near Lake Sherwood, not far from Malibu but not technically MCSP. Not having thrown a rope off it, I am not sure but I think it's over 100'. Theoretically, if you were willing to do a hanging belay; it could have a belay bolted in. It would have to be bolted eventually...the rock is breccia not sandstone and there are no places to use clean gear. I did get a 160' by 1" tubular webbing to initially protect it from the top...we would belay from above using a boulder as an anchor some distance from the edge.PM me if you are interested in trying the west side of this rock...the rock looks solid top to bottom on the west side.
I am heading down to Malibu this week and would like to arrange someone to try this FA with before I haul all the gear down to LA.
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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Hey is there any routes done out by the MASH site up on the hillside? Or is this off limits?
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2014 - 02:01pm PT
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I just saw that wall the other day when I made a wrong turn going to echo. It looks pretty good and has a short approach with some bush whacking. I might be down to go bolt it sometime. I'm pretty busy this week though.
There's stuff on the mash boulder, but they are all like 12s and I'm a pussy and don't climb that hard so I haven't been there yet.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Ask PYRO.... He has spent a lot of time bolting, climbing all sorts of stuff out that aways.... his backyard.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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There are some longer routes in MCSP but they are long 1 pitch affairs. I have looked at some of the longer faces, but the rock quality declines as you get away from the scowering action of the creek below.
A few routes I established at the Ghetto, can be done in 2 pitches but most will opt to climb them in 1 pitch.
Echo cliffs has a few multi pitch routes if that's what you're looking for.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
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Yeah Levy, I've seen your route dead rats in the guide book but it's more of an extension than a second pitch like you said. I've done a ton of multipitch at echo and other spots. Just curious if there were some longer routes but I guessed the choss was the main reason why there wasn't.
And yeah Guy hoping Pyro will hop in. Stoked Levy the legend commented.
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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Thanks guys I was just curious next time I am down that way as i really want to see the MASH camp- big movie locations buff.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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I agree the mash boulder is kind'a junk. getting to it was not easy not to mention some indian was living inside the cave..!?!
multi pitch stuff in the santa monica's could happen.
castro peak
find the PCH 76station at corell cyn.
i'll find some more pictures of chossy potentials!
edit:
i.d recommend this hikers guide book.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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took another picture of this thing for you..
there is a topo from Dave Katz guide book.
the first guide book to record rock climbing in the Santa Monica's
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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2 unkown crag just below the castro peak..this would be nice slab kinda area
looking from the hills or back side of the State park.
from the same point as the picture above i zoomed the camera on my Favorite small crag "THE ICEBERG"..!?!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 28, 2014 - 01:50pm PT
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some more of the Castro peak stuff! I'll update with climbing pic's when time permits!
edit:
Century lake's Malibu Pinnacle!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 17, 2014 - 02:02pm PT
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Century Lake's Malibu Pinnacle Top-rope's.
Find the gully then set up two ropes for a long Tr!
Bring some extra rope to rap down to the ring anchors.
Both routes can be rated at 5.9.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jul 17, 2014 - 04:02pm PT
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Nothing really tall enough to be true multi-pitch at Malibu. There's some stuff off on the horizon that looks tall, but it's probably a major headache to get to it and likely choss.
That stuff around Lake Sherwood and the cliff at the lake going up Westlake Blv.... I'd definitely do some research on who "owns" it before you go bolting or climbing anything. It's a mish-mash of private property and state land. At least one area I know of is protected/off limits to hiking and climbing.
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Chris Cunningham
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jul 17, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
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It's Lake Eleanor Open Space for the climb I scouted; I crossed no fences and saw no signs. Google Earth, my Hiking and Biking the Santa Monica Mountains book, as I recall, also shows it as open for public access.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 17, 2014 - 09:50pm PT
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chossis what u make of it!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jul 18, 2014 - 01:36am PT
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I was just about to suggest the highly pocketed set of faces straight up off the dam at Century Lake. There is attractive looking stuff above the last pic.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 18, 2014 - 06:20am PT
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this rock is my favorite!
the ICEBERG
Dave Katz climbing on the iceberg called it a gem in the santa monicas.
edit: ill dig for some more pic..i have a good one from the top of the malibu pinnacle
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 18, 2014 - 08:17am PT
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Doesn't that iceberg formation have glue dripping all over the holds? Sorry Ryan but that thing is a pile.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 18, 2014 - 08:20am PT
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Sorry Ryan but that thing is a pile. levy its a sub par!
not bad for a first ascent in malibu!
levy ur not sorry!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 18, 2014 - 05:33pm PT
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Malibu Cyn rock climbing to be had!
nice area but no routes!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 19, 2014 - 02:56pm PT
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getting back to the fun stuff.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Jul 21, 2014 - 01:28pm PT
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In addition to putting up first ascents in Courtright, Tuolumne, Fuller Buttes and Shuteye, I know a lot about rare succulents. Any new route development, in Malibu Canyon has the potential to further endanger one of the rarest succulents in the state, particularly if the new areas go where there is any moss at all. The Slab That Time Forgot routes really hammered one of the rare liveforever species. Going higher there or elsewhere in the canyon might bring many more restrictions in the canyon for climbers. Sunnier places like Echo Rocks, where the rock is more bare of moss and succulents are better places to do new stuff. There is a different rare species mixed with common species at Century Lake cliffs. Even decent botanists have a difficult time telling the rare from the two common ones in that area.
The Malibu Creek liveforever was thought to be in Orange County too, but the plants there were misidentified and were not the same.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 21, 2014 - 07:21pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
thank you stephan!
Malibu Succulents must be left alone..
Hiking and climbing at the park is always fun!
Malibu Cyn has the best to offer.
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Cole
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jul 23, 2014 - 12:26am PT
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PYRO! Nice vid! That's a dope little gem, was hard!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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another area not listed in any guide book!
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Nolan Conway
Trad climber
Dana Point Ca
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Aug 12, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
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Hello, as interesting as the topic may be I may have an answer. I too have always wondered if there was multi pitch at Malibu creek. As it seems so to not offer any, I stumbled upon evidence yesterday that there might be potential or even a bolted route in place. As I was walking the full hike from century lake to the rock pool areas, as I entered the ghetto, you can really see the vast size of the right side of the mountain that ghetto is imbedded into. This caught my attention and I began to investigate. I scramble up the hill past a couple of unlisted routes and caught an opening where I was Able to see the wall close up. To my knowledge I was able to see a couple of bolted anchors one after the other. They were hard to see but I do believe they may reach the top. I am gonna go check it out next time and see if I can't rap off the top to find the supposed line. If anyone has any additional info or comments feel free. This wall was also well over 100 feet found behind the ghetto on the right side up the hill
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 12, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
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Nolan very kool!
believe Tony Sartin might have something to do with something behind the ghetto..
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