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Jeffo
Trad climber
Virginia
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 22, 2006 - 12:16pm PT
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Off the deck, what is the preferred method for anchor setup? Here are some variations that I've found:
1. Upward pull/bomber anchor kept in tension with a clove hitch to the first piece.
2. Updward pull/bomber anchor kept in tension with bungees to the first piece
3. Upward pull/bomber anchor kept in tension with long prusik line attached to the first piece.
What do you all prefer? Other thoughts?
Also, I've read about a string of clove hitches on pro following the anchor (mostly higher up) why is this done?
Cheers.
J
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Aug 22, 2006 - 12:59pm PT
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I made a video that shows how to do a one handed clove hitch with tension. If you want it, email me, but be warned it is about 10 MB.
The prussik and particularly the bungi are worthless for the purpose of an anchor.
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Aug 22, 2006 - 01:05pm PT
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I prefer 2 - 1/2" bolts about 3 inches into the rock. I clip the rope into one and hang off a runner clipped into the other. Anything else is just too much work.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Aug 22, 2006 - 01:17pm PT
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LOL, short timer, then obviously you are not drilling them by hand.
Cause then you'd be long timer.
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Jeffo
Trad climber
Virginia
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2006 - 01:25pm PT
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I probably should have been more specific and stated that I'm interested in solo anchors...specifically whether most people create tension for the upward pull to keep things angled the right way (and how they do this) and to figure out what the deal is with clove hitching your first couple of pieces.
Thanks,
J
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Aug 22, 2006 - 01:28pm PT
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Dirt, I used to drill lots of 1/4" bolts by hand. I was a LongTimer then, now I use a Hilti so I am a ShortTimer.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Aug 22, 2006 - 01:32pm PT
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Everytime you clove hitch a piece during the pitch (reduces rope weight and drag)you are essentially starting the lead over again and have a factor 2 fall potential unless the piece pulls.
Ken
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dmalloy
Trad climber
eastside
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Aug 22, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
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Dirt, that sounds like a good resource for folks to see. Might I suggest posting it at YouTube or Photobucket, both of which host video these days? That way you could send the link around.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Aug 22, 2006 - 03:28pm PT
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DOH, PHOTOBUCKET!! Why didn't I know that already? Thanks!
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ADK
Trad climber
Reno, Nevada
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Aug 22, 2006 - 04:05pm PT
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Jeffo,
Depends on whether or not you have a big haul bag. If youre hauling a fat load then the anchor can be oriented downward and your haul bag can be used as a shock absorber. If not, upward orientation with a screamer is your best option.
I think the anchor is best oriented upward with a clove hitch or a klemheist on a long sling off the first piece. This way if you pitch after the first piece you will not put tension on the clove hitch or klemheist. (drawing a picture helps)
If you need to take the weight off the rope during the pitch. I like the idea of rubber bands over klemheists or clove hitches. Clove hitching a piece on a long sling during the pitch could result in a factor two fall onto the the piece that is slung. Klemheists seem ok in theory but there's the possibility of friction that could take place between the rope and klemheist knot during a big whip.
A rubber band will hold your rope fine and will obviously break during any fall. Hope this helps. There is a lot of info on this on the forum if you do a search.
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