Scared Peaches

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Chief

climber

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay

Topic Author's Original Post - May 26, 2014 - 02:28am PT

Not sure if this Back of The Lake classic has been discussed here and couldn't find it in a thread search.
I belayed Dave Morgan on what was apparently the first free ascent of the first pitch back in 86 and was able to follow it.
We thought it was probably hard 5.11.
Later, Josh Korman added a short hard pitch to share the belay with the top of the first pitch of Air Voyage then continued a third pitch to the top of the gently overhanging wall.
I took an interest in the route while working a job in the Rockies in the mid nineties, climbed all three pitches and thought the route could be climbed in one pitch.
There were a number of rusting fixed pins on the route and I asked Josh if he'd be OK with me replacing the key ones with stainless bolts.
"Bolt it all and let God sort it out" he replied.
I pulled all the pins and placed about a half dozen bolts over the near 50 meters of impeccable stone much to the chagrin of the late "Everyday Dave" Thompson.
He threatened to throw rocks at me and I offered to come down and trade him a knuckle sandwich for his projectiles and he begrudgingly relented.
I was able to lead it one mind blowing pitch, as good as anything I've ever climbed, so good in fact, I led it a couple more times that summer.
That's almost twenty years ago now.
Everyday Dave is gone and I've heard, so have the bolts, the route now protected by modern thin gear, braver minds than mine and plenty of clean air for big zoomers.
Maybe Dave's up there smiling at the outcome.
In any event, Scared Peaches in one pitch, bolts or not, is a winner.

Pat Bates has a pretty good photo of a younger, leaner version of yours truly on his web site.
http://www.batesphoto.com/high%20adventure/hiaadv9.html

MH2

climber

May 26, 2014 - 08:57am PT

Looks like you're smiling, too.

ionlyski

Trad climber

Kalispell, Montana

May 26, 2014 - 01:03pm PT

Perry, that's pretty cool. So did it turn out to be hard 5.11 or 12d? Is this at Lake Louise?
Wonder if some of the bolts remained with the protectable sections gone back to trad?

Sounds like a good climb. I love the quartzite.

Arne

RyanD

climber

Squamish

May 26, 2014 - 01:27pm PT

Awesome stuff Perry, thanks for sharing this fine tale- so it got chopped?

That's a great photo too!

Oh, and another example of not having to worry about your routes being downgraded It would seem :-)

11+ = 12d ?

Not surprised!

Chief

climber

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay

Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 03:32pm PT

I think the grade for the first pitch has settled at 12a and 12c for the whole route.
My recollection is that a guidebook description says the bolts were removed.
This post was intended to offer a bit of history on a world class rock climb and maybe elicit some information on whether or not all or some of the bolts were removed.

PB

peter croft

climber

May 26, 2014 - 07:26pm PT

Sounds like brilliant pitch, Perry!
Love those long, steep ones - none of the slab dragging rope drag and clean plummets too. Did Air Voyage and I thought that was amazing. Your route sounds even amazing-er. Gotta get back up there.

Chief

climber

The NW edge of The Hudson Bay

Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2014 - 10:00pm PT

Peter, the Air Voyage Wall is definitely as good as it gets.
Although it's accurate to say I share the FFA of the first pitch with Dave Morgan and was the first to climb the whole thing in one pitch, Scared Peaches isn't my route.
Having said that, I'd like to think that along with Dave, Josh and a few others, I'm part of it's history, even if it's only the checkered part.
Anecdotally, it sounds like somebody yarded out the bolts, led it on gear only and probably claimed they were first.

peter croft

climber

May 27, 2014 - 10:36am PT

Well, you might not be the only one on the list but you'd have to be on it. Firing it up in one big pitch changes the whole flavor - and it's delicious! I was just down in the Needles last week with Conrad, running that 80 meter til it ran out. What a hoot!

ionlyski

Trad climber

Kalispell, Montana

May 27, 2014 - 10:47am PT

Guys, is this the route at the back of the lake your own Sonny Trotter pulled the bolts on then re-led on gear?

Arne

Eidt-Never mind; I just looked it up and that route is called The Path

peter croft

climber

May 27, 2014 - 11:58am PT

Yeah Greg, that one was a bit bizarro-world. Josh had just finished giving us a tour of his crag and was eager for us to get cracking. Just then an apple sized rock buzzed out of the sky, clipping Hamish in the head and throwing him to the ground. Blood's pumping out through his hair and I'm just short of freaked, getting ready to hustle him off to the hospital. Josh seemed kinda pissed - "Hamish can drive himself, let's climb". I'm kinda shocked - "Uh, no." Then Josh came back with that classic line - "What are you - gay?" I remember him standing there all righteous, hands on hips, in his skin tight lycra (sans briefs) and all that that implies. Still not sure if he was hitting on me or just angry.