Discussion Topic |
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
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Brad and I are currently putting in routes at a "new" area. On the Bowman Lake road, go approximately 1/4 mile past B word. The area we are working on is just above the road 200 feet. There is an existing trad route with top anchors. The anchors look to be less than 10 years old. There is also a bolted route (use the word bolted loosely cause there are only 3 bolts on it in 25 meters. The bolts are 1/4 inch button heads and the hangers are Lieper style. They are about as old as they get. Do you know who might have put these routes up? Thanks, John R
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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May 13, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
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Talk to Ron Anderson and I think StahlBro.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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May 13, 2014 - 07:16pm PT
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Or Mike Carville.
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
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Thanks Bluering. I put up routes with Mike Carville so we've talked. I'll ask the other two.
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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May 13, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
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Anchors here?
I worked for a summer camp and we used to do climbing courses there. Not sure if they still do. If I recall correctly one of the camp directors replaced some golden era bolts there on the map above an ugly wide alcovish crack and about 10mtrs to climbers right. That would have been in '93 +/-.
Myself and a few of the other counselors established a number of toprope routes along the cliff ranging from 5.6 or 7s up to .10ish.
Records of climbs were kept in camp books but are all gone.
The kids rotated through and spent 2 days and one night at the lake. Since the kids only had one breakfast they cooked the same thing every day, pancakes. I was stationed there at the lake, so I had breakfast there every morning. In honor of the monotony all the routes were named with a pancake theme, a few I remember,
'Pancakes and Flapjacks'
'Flapjacks and Pancakes'
'More Pancakes'
etc etc
Just offering a bit of history, not making any claim of prior art.
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whoops
climber
paradise, ca
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May 14, 2014 - 12:14am PT
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dfinnecy
Thx for the history.
If that's the climb I think it is you climb a low angle face, over a slabby bulge and then very low angle for about 25ft back to the anchor. It's almost directly across from b'word. I think there are about 8 newish looking bolts and hangers.
The wall we're talking about is the next one to the left.
We have talked to Josh and Mike. Can't find any info.
Brad
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whoops
climber
paradise, ca
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May 14, 2014 - 05:59pm PT
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bump
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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May 16, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
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Dome (left side) just up the road from B-Word Wall.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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May 16, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
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Chris and Brad on TR (right side) where old routes reside. Bowman Lake.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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May 23, 2014 - 08:08pm PT
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rediscovery dome, left to right - crack .5, bolted 5.9+, bolted 5.10+, shangri-la bolted (seam to face) 5.9+, crack gear 5.8, tr 5.10, cheers and jeers bolts 5.10b. all routes bolted anchors w/ mussys.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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May 23, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
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bowman lake, ca. overview map - hope it helps. cheers, mike
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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May 23, 2014 - 10:56pm PT
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Man...I gotta get to the Bowman area, next time I'm down visiting my folks!
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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May 24, 2014 - 12:37am PT
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I been climbing there twice now. Tons of routes, helluva great area for camping, fishing, etc in addition to climbing. Go spend a weekend exploring.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Jun 18, 2014 - 07:51am PT
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John/Brad -- new routes maybe Derrick Lindsay?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 18, 2014 - 05:25pm PT
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Are rediscovery dome and boy scout wall above the power plant?
I checked that area out last year but there were no trespassing signs on the gate to the road along the base of those walls so I left because I didn't want to ruffle any PG&E feathers.
Maybe they just don't want anyone near the power plant.
Edit: nevermind, actually from looking closer at the google maps photo above (thanks Mike it DOES HELP!) it looks like the area I was at is just to the left (north on the map) of Larry Land. Looks like some nice multi-pitch potential but perhaps off limits.
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d-bird
climber
walnut creek ,ca
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Jun 19, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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mike,
I put up one route on the face to the right of Rediscovery wall. Crooked Bowtie 5.10 11 bolts. June 5 2014
This route and the two that I did with you are the only three that ive put up and the area.
Have you guys finished putting in the rest of the routes on this same wall? there were ropes and another set of top anchors set when I was last there on the june 5. Cant wait to get back up there and climb the new routes that have been put up. thanks!
Derrick Lindsay
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d-bird
climber
walnut creek ,ca
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Jun 19, 2014 - 12:25pm PT
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Mike
Id like to put mussy hooks on the anchors of my route but had a hard time finding them. Where do you get yours from? thanks
Derrick
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 19, 2014 - 04:12pm PT
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Carville, thanks for sharing that awesome map. Woot!
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Jun 19, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
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Indeed, nice to know just where these areas are at. Is any of that area open for climbing north of Larry Land, east of Boy Scout Wall? Heading out there this weekend.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 19, 2014 - 05:07pm PT
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Johnnyrig, I'll be in SLT this weekend, around Heavenley in a time-share. I'm focused on fishing with my son, but I'll be in the perimeter from Sat. thru Wed. next week.
Fallen Leaf really has a bunch of bass in it? Smallies and Largemouth?
I was going to run lead-core flashers down deep for Lake Trout and other trout species. But I love me some bass-fishing.....
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Jun 19, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
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Man, I've never fished Tahoe or Fallen Leaf for that matter. Someday, I will have to try. Heard there's a pretty good charter outfit on Tahoe, but I'd just be paddling the old canoe along the shoreline myself.
This weekend we're meeting friends and family to try camping out for the first time with both little ones, and plan to climb a little on saturday at Bowman. Climbing partner prefers longer trad lines, so I'm curious what areas are off-limits out there. Seems like I remember a long rampy corner heading up that unlisted area, but also that it may have been posted. Isn't there also a rampy corner going up somewhere near candyland? I duno... we may just clip bolts.
I doubt the better half will let me out to climb again during the week, but if she does I know there's a bunch of climbing up there.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Jun 19, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
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fet/jonnyrig - yes, stuff above power plant is off limits for now. new stuff to do around highlands and left of larryland.
derrick - nice work on the new line. contact john robinson, guy who started this post about mussys. let me know when ya come up again.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Jun 27, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
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Lost a pair of ratty ass loaner shoes at the Funhouse. About size 10 mens. Blueish. Ratty. If you find them, feel free to eat them, burn them, donate them to the homeless, use them for targets. Or climb in them. If you,re really feeling generous, i could use them. There,s even a PBR in it for ya, cold one at that.
Thanks.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Jul 15, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
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John Robinson who started this post has a good source for mussys. johnr9q
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d-bird
climber
walnut creek ,ca
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Jul 20, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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thanks mike for the mussys 411, I found a forum here on supertopo about them also. Ive been super busy with work and haven't had a chance to get back up there.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Aug 31, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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sweet
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