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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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What an account, S. Grossman - great writing.
From the belay after the Great Roof, before the Pancake, you look right and see an arete that is just outrageous, scary to behold, way out there in No Man's Land. Always wondered - is that part of the Central Scrutinizer?
I don't know the story of the second ascent, but I believe that this is one of the folks from the SA team, Jacek Czyz:
http://www.supertopo.com/inc/view_forum.php?dcid=ODg6PTU3NyA,
Here's a pic from that ascent:
Czyz did the solo FA of Quo Vadis, right?
I agree with Mucci, Avery - keep these posts going, as you can see you are harvesting quality stuff.
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Edit:
Yup, Quo Vadis. Here's PtPP from the Wings thread:
I'm sitting here looking at the Quo Vadis topo. It was put up solo by Jacek Czyz of Poland who rates it A4/A4+. "I spend 30 days on the wall, 26 climbing" The route starts on Little John, crosses MW and MM, then across the Half Dollar and on up.
"33 new belay bolts + 20 exist
14 lead bolts 3/8" + 6 exist
51 rivets (most ss 5/16" + 6 Al) 24 exist
I drill 48 hole, no bathooks"
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Geez, my hands got all sweaty reading Steve's account above....
They're still sweating! Can't even type!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Geez Pete, you're a mess even sitting in a chair. LOL
Kenny who posts here and his partner were the first on this route but bailed from Dolt Tower if I recall correctly. The two polish lads were the second party on the route and completed it. I was engaged in conversation with Jacek about their experience for a short while until I asked them how much micro nuting they managed to do and the dialog stopped.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2014 - 04:02am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I don't think the CS shows up on either of the wall waps posted so far. The SE Select version shows it.
The topo on that map was drawn well after the FA and was made using information from the SA. I never drew a full topo for that one once it was finished BITD.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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Many thanks Steve, not only for your sweat inducing post, but for taking the time to do it. Much appreciated.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2014 - 06:31pm PT
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Thanks mucci, for your ubiquitous enthusiasm.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
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Thanks le_bruce.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2014 - 06:39pm PT
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Who is Stretch?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Stretch was a very tall friend of Bill's.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Fantastic account, Steve. That route is a true achievement. Thanks for giving us a taste!
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
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Thanks RP3, well said.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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May 10, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
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good god
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2014 - 03:04am PT
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Hey Steve, Which was the harder, "Central Scrutinizer" or the "Real Nose'?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 11, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
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If done in the original style the Competitive Edge (aka Real Nose) is 5.12aR A5 and is considerably harder than the CS at 5.11 A4+ (old school ratings). If those two RPs don't hold then I would call the CS A5. LOL
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
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Thanks Steve (I think). How did we ever allow grading to become so complicated!
To your knowledge has the "Competitive Edge" (love that name) had a second ascent?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 11, 2014 - 08:49pm PT
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Steve Gerberding and friends repeated the Competitive Edge and it awaits a third ascent if I am not mistaken. Shipoopi is actively engaged in this effort.
John Middendorf proposed an alternate rating system during the 80s that took a perfectly reasonable system and compressed it in an attempt to include objective danger into the equation when looking at big walls.
New Wave ratings became so subjective that the PRS (Personalized Rating System) was born with such fine descriptive offerings like PDH (Pretty Darn Hard)and RHU (Real Heads Up) replacing numbers altogether.
The problem here is that without keeping track of the New Wave shift chronologically, climbers see older routes as being much more formidable than they actually are based on the numerical grade. An aid pitch from the 60s could get an A4 grade with only one or two bodyweight placements and a clean fall whereas a New Wave pitch of that grade is far more engaging technically and risky.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 11, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
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I definitely prefer the CRS - Casual Rating System.
Isn't "RHU" a magazine-sanitized translation of DFU [Don't Blow It]?
Didn't Peter Mayfield invent this rating system?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 11, 2014 - 11:24pm PT
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So?
No...
Could be as the first appearance of the PRS followed the published accounts of the FA of The Big Chill, if memory serves.
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Avery
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 11, 2014 - 11:35pm PT
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Thanks Steve.
As an outsider I must admit I prefer the old grading system.
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