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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 30, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
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Are there any free routes on Broderick? Recently, a couple of Colorado climbers freed the Unemployment Line. I was wondering if there were other routes that went up the formation.
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Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, Co
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Apr 30, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
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James,
All I've got listed is:
Mt. Broderick
1823. 40 Ounces of Freedom 5.10 A3, SB, AAJ1998
1824. Mr. Clean, 5p, L of Unemployment Line, ST, AAJ1994
1825. Unemployment Line 5.9 A3, 8p
1826. Mt. Broderick - South Face 5.8 A3, 7p, M
1827. Lightning Bolt Crack 5.11?, __x, R-leaning wide lieback flake, ST
1828. un Mt. Broderick 5.8, 2p, dike, on NE face, ST
1829. Mt. Broderick - NE Slope 3rd
-Wade
The American Alpine Club only gives one liners for the routes
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Anybody have some history on the south face route? Who put it up and when? What sort of climbing encountered? Anything?
Much thanks.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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The South Face route is from May 1960. A Pratt, Fitschen, Kamps route. IV 5.8 A3. I have never heard of anyone repeating it, but it must have been. I think those upper pitches might be interesting. It appears in the green Roper guide, pages 184-185.
And as I have mentioned before, the south face of Broderick presents quite a few possible new routes both shorties to features and full length climbs.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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I've done 1828 , the 2 pitch dike route ... Pretty nice I thought . Probably like 45 minute walk from the top of Vernal to get there ...
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Thanks for the responses. The climbing on that face indeed looks stellar. A buddy and I started work on a line that should criss cross that south face route. The first couple pitches have already proven to be rad. Can't wait to get back at it.
Klaus, I would be interested in some info on that route of yours. It would be cool to check out.
Anybody know what's up with that awesome splitter on Broderick half way up the valley? It doesn't begin until about 20 feet off the deck and there's a seemingly unreachable bolt below it.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, bump...
this looked very interesting... :)
happy good morning all...
got to now, see you all later... :)
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Nov 23, 2014 - 05:28pm PT
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Anybody recognize the crack in the bottom of this photo? It is halfway up the valley between broderick and liberty cap, on the broderick side. It is splitter but does not begin until about 20 feet off the deck. There is an old bolt located right below it. Anybody know anything about the route?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Nov 23, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
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Brandon: As far as I know, there has been no claims of ascent to this obvious climb prospect. I have been looking at it for about 45 years, like many others. We are always on the move towards Half Dump though or back to the Valley, so it doesn't seem to get done. I think there is a piece low down on it too. It looks like you could keep going to the summit here and in at least four other places in that wonderful hanging valley.
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Nov 23, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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Thanks Peter. Many lines in there have indeed caught my eye... Beautiful area.
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| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
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