Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic |
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 18, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
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I've been thinking a lot about this problem the last few months, was the big project of a friend of mine who passed away. Was hoping to climb it for him, looks like I'll be climbing something else entirely. Good things never stick around, but still. It sucks to see that someone put their experience in our beautiful mountains over others.
Greg
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thebravecowboy
climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
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Apr 18, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
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chipped? chopped?
ideas on who or how or why?
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Apr 18, 2014 - 12:44pm PT
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quite unfortunate :(
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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So what happened to it?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Apr 18, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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Looks like someone decided they needed to have a campfire next to it..
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
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Maybe some homeless guy....Too bad though. Greg, I'm sure you'll find something worthy for your friend (RIP).
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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Campfire at the base, that black streak was a perfect line of thin edges and smears. The big flake that's sticking out flexes easily and will pop off soon I'm sure. There was a big pile of wood from chopped trees nearby.
If you look at the boulder and turn right, you'll see a 15 mile long ridge charred brown and black from the Mountain Center fire in July. Why anyone would start a bonfire in this tinderbox... sigh.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Apr 18, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
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South Ridge has really become a ghetto in recent years.
The dispersed camping up there lends itself to all kinds of weirdness...pad people are part of the problem, but there's just as many (or more) that go up there to party and do whatever kind of weird sh#t they want to do.
Not sure what the solution is...it's not enough of a destination bouldering area (anymore) to engender a strong protective & rehab interest.
That problem is sooooo classic. Could never get much off the ground on it, but have walked by it admiringly for so many years.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
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I agree Apogee, although I rarely see climbers up there. The culprits I've run into are yahoo 'campers' looking for a place to break some rules. Broken Bottles, limbs cut from trees, multiple OHV trails starting to show up... just looking gross.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Apr 18, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
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I will ask the local USFS Recreation Officer about his thoughts on this. Doubt it will result in anything (as the poor guy is constantly swamped), but it wouldn't hurt to put it on his radar.
Maybe make it part of the upcoming Idy Climber's Festival projects?
Edit: Wasn't that problem one of the early John Gill B1's?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Apr 18, 2014 - 01:36pm PT
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It looks like it will still go, but at a higher degree of difficulty. It's messed up how somebody had a fire in that location. :(
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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Thanks Apo
The first two holds on the left are charred and ruined, the right holds are mostly OK. The feet are pretty F'd for the first ~3 moves as well, luckily the crux is intact but still... I'm going to wait for nature to run it's course before I put my rubber anywher near it. That flakes gotta go and I don't want to be the guy to pry it off, nawmean?
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Ryans
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 02:11pm PT
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Somebody has had multiple fires there this year. I noticed a smoke streak there back in January. I haven't been up there since, but this is significantly worse than what I saw. Probably somebody living up there off and on I bet or local kids partying with no knowledge that people climb there.
Bummer.
Over the past year, I've been thinking of applying for an AAC Stewardship grant or an Access Fund grant to get a pit toilet up there because I'm tired of finding toilet paper and feces next to the boulders. Maybe in addition to a toilet we could get some way to block driving access directly up to the boulders to dissuade the partying/homeless type from camping so close to the rocks. Has anybody ever had success receiving a grant for a project like this?
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Apr 18, 2014 - 02:18pm PT
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Good thinking, Ryan. Maybe ask Access Fund about this?
South Ridge does have some climbing heritage & history surrounding it...AF might be able to at least provide some stewardship suggestions (or more).
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 02:23pm PT
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It's time for an Oath Takers Militia.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
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Would've been cool to see ya up there, X15X15. I fell on the last jug on the direct 5.11 problem on the Mushroom boulder a handful of times before giving up, haha. Watching you do that thing sans pads was pretty rad.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
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I'm up for helping out up there since I'm going to be up there regular like. I've been bummed at finding feces and tp at Woodson. TOOOOO many people using these places to just abuse them. Need to take care of them before access denied.
Chris
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Friend
climber
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Apr 18, 2014 - 04:59pm PT
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That's a real shame. not just Idyllwilds best, sra would be a classic anywhere.
But the start isn't the crux.. does it still go?
https://vimeo.com/m/58365616
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
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I'm sure it'll go, but it needs extensive cleaning. The crux up high is pretyt much free of damage. Maybe I got a bit melodramatic, but still. It's fugly and the start is pure choss.
If you want to fix up Woodson snap potato chip rock in half. The hordes from that f*#king thing create a conga line of city folk who leave tampons/TP/bottles/younameit all over the 'side trails' and the big flat bases underneath boulders look a lot like a latrine to them. Obviously I'm kidding about destroying potato chip rock, but I have these dark thoughts of a giant group of 30+ bozo's doing a group shot and snapping the sumbitch. I've been going to woodson almost weekly every season since 2011, it's galactically more fukt.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 05:24pm PT
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^^^^ I was more talking about volunteering for group clean-ups near Suicide and Tahquitz. I'm going to try to get to this years annual up there. At Woodson I bring a trash bag up once a month and fill it. Some of it is too off the road to be the "Chip" heads, but your right that the potato chip traffic has F'ed it up. We are due for an earthquake soon. If its during the day and large enough......someone will at least get tossed off that thing.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Apr 18, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
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South Ridge Arete FA:Skip Guerin
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Apr 18, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
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Yea, Woodson is getting pretty disgusting with all the TP and feces around. Thank God they are staying away from Suicide, I know places up there casual hikers cannot access.
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Ryans
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Apr 19, 2014 - 12:21am PT
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South Ridge clean-up and bouldering party next Saturday (4/26)? I bet if we bring a few buckets of water, some large brushes, and a mild soap, we could get the rock looking pretty good. Beers and bouldering breaks all day of course.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Apr 19, 2014 - 01:44am PT
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Don't blame Sprock...He's going cold-turkey with the toilet paper...Pee yoo..
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 19, 2014 - 03:31am PT
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hey there say, Gdavis... sad to hear this,as to your special boulder-spot, and about others spots as well...
:(
my mom and i have talks about these kinds of things, as to hiking areas, since we are not climbers... so much 'filth' and junk around places that once were lovely... :(
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Apr 19, 2014 - 11:10am PT
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shouldn't this be apart of the whine thread?
fires happen!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2014 - 11:12am PT
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Holds broke, rain ain't gonna fix that : / and I WANT MY OWN WHINING THREAD! WAAH!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 19, 2014 - 12:02pm PT
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Over the past year, I've been thinking of applying for an AAC Stewardship grant or an Access Fund grant to get a pit toilet up there because I'm tired of finding toilet paper and feces next to the boulders. Maybe in addition to a toilet we could get some way to block driving access directly up to the boulders to dissuade the partying/homeless type from camping so close to the rocks. Has anybody ever had success receiving a grant for a project like this?
It's a good idea, the lower gate. This is what we did at Summit Rock here in the Bay Area. Late-night partiers would go there at night and park up higher where the LEO could not see their cars. And yeah, the would chuck empies from the top and shower glass all over the faces and the base. Really nasty.
After a Peregrine decided to nest there, the Land Managers and Park Service decided this was a good excuse to shut the whole place down to EVERYONE indefinitely.
We recognized this was totally unreasonable, as did Falcon experts and other biologists. We employed the help of the Access Fund and one of their lawyers. Several locals were involved in this as well, chiefly, Bruce Morris.
It was decided that a gate right off the road would be opened closed at sunrise/sunset to prevent partiers from hiding their cars there at night. They have to park right on the road, and they wouldn't do that.
Secondly, it was decided that there would be an online permitting system that would allow 30 people a day to climb out there. Keeps the numbers down.
It seems to be a good compromise.
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Ballo
Trad climber
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Apr 19, 2014 - 06:06pm PT
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Considering the traffic, the amount of 'damage' to this area seems much ado about nothing. I haven't seen massive amounts of trash. I have found a few tires (redneck droppings….why do they discard tires in the woods?)
Flakes come off. If it wasn't a fire, it would have been a freeze/thaw. Asking rangers to police the area more seems like a very bad idea to me; one that would likely bite us in the ass. A better approach might be putting up a kiosk and appealing to common sense rather than getting the law involved.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 19, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
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Send it & spray paint your name on it.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 19, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
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Considering the traffic, the amount of 'damage' to this area seems much ado about nothing. I haven't seen massive amounts of trash. I have found a few tires (redneck droppings….why do they discard tires in the woods?)
Flakes come off. If it wasn't a fire, it would have been a freeze/thaw. Asking rangers to police the area more seems like a very bad idea to me; one that would likely bite us in the ass. A better approach might be putting up a kiosk and appealing to common sense rather than getting the law involved.
Totally disagree with evertyhing, brah. You are wrong.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:04am PT
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Bitd I almost tripped over a bobcat while jogging between boulder problems in Idlewild.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 20, 2014 - 12:38am PT
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Shot of me from the late '80's... This was my favorite problem in Idyllwild! (photo Ron Amick)
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Apr 20, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
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Why not sandblast the soot off?
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Apr 20, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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Don't look like you Mike.... Not chiseled enough! Miss you Brother!
Peace
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Friend
climber
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Apr 20, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
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ULTRA classic photo, Watusi. I've seen it before and it was super inspiring during the multiple visits it took me to send the SRA. I posted a vid up thread, more recent of course, but I hope it takes you back to an awesome place and time.
Dr. F, I always suspected that if you'd fired the thing, you would have put a more heroic (post-crux) shot in the book!
(For those who don't have the first ed, he's on the same move as johansolo upthread: just below the crux)
No disrespect intended Dr F... bottom line is "the Fry book" has been the definitive reference for 25 years - proud. I still have both editions on my bookshelf..
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Apr 20, 2014 - 10:48pm PT
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Stuff like that just makes me want to puke! It's such a power spot up there, and that problem is so proud. Not that I will ever climb that hard...but it's quite special for me that my dear friend "Friend" has climbed it. I'm sure the dicks that roasted it had no idea of the priceless gem they were desecrating...but still...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 20, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
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After meeting Jody, retired CHP officer, this seems to me why he left the force.
And I've talked to LEO Rangers on both sides of this.
Certain laws are in place to deter "partiers" and "wastoids".
These laws tend to get people like me in trouble, when I just want to take a few beers out climbing. I'm just trying to have a good day in the sun with some beers.
I always pack out, and carry other people's sh#t out.
The only solution to this is to tell the rangers where the wasteoids are. The people abusing the grounds.
I've had LEO Rangers let me go with warnings that I shouldn't encourage others.
I'm good friends, somewhat, with this Ranger.
We need to keep sh#t on the DL (down-low) in these areas. Don't set a bad example.
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 30, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
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Dude just scrub the soot off, it won't take that long.
I have had to scrub soot from a misplaced campfire next to a boulder about same size.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Apr 30, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
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Maybe a small plaque asking people to not have a fire or damage the climb?
rivet it on the side?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 30, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
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I was up that way over 10 years ago with drc. We hauled out two giant garbage bags of trash (the forest service peeps gave us the bags). Lots of redneck trash up there sadly.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Apr 30, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
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Doubt if the careless f*#ks who are trashing the place can read plaques (or anything else besides shitty beer labels). FWIW.
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Ryans
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Apr 16, 2015 - 10:52am PT
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I was up at south ridge yesterday afternoon.
People are still having fires up there underneath SRA. The fires have migrated closer to the problem. It took some close inspection to even find the first holds on the left, as they are completely black and covered in thick soot. More of the lower flake has broken off. I'm not sure if that was pulled off sometime in the last year or fell of due to heat. I got a picture on my camera I can post soon.
In addition to that, there's a fair amount of trash up there, mostly beer bottles and articles of clothing. I tried to get most of the trash.
I fear this problem doesn't have much time left.
In addition to that, it appears people are having fires in a few other locations. Specifically in that cave like area behind the elephant man boulder.
These people are going to burn down Idyllwild, or get the road closed to vehicles.
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