Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 1, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
|
DMM makes some pretty cool stuff. And everything seems to be done in house (even the forging...very impressive). So I'm wondering what the deal is with these torque nuts. They claim these are even good to go in parallel cracks? Solid? Somewhat multidirectional? Smooth or rough sufaces?
On another note. DUDE!! YOU know who you are. PM me your email next time you get on here. Wider stuff awaits us.
|
|
labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
|
|
I like the Wild Country Hexcentrics. These look much the same to me. Maybe the Torque Nuts are a bit lighter?
|
|
looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
|
|
I looked at these pretty hard when I wanted to pick up a couple hexes last year. They have a really good range, but nobody around me stocked them (I like to hold stuff before I buy it), so I ended up getting WC Hexcentrics.
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
|
That's the stuff Clint. Thanks for putting up the vid.
I'm really a noob at all this stuff, but placing cams seems a lot easier and you can reach placements a little further away using cams. The advantage of the torque nuts seems to be weight. I was curious about the camming action of the torque nuts; how effective it was giving different pull directions.
|
|
looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
|
|
placing cams seems a lot easier and you can reach placements a little further away using cams. The advantage of the torque nuts seems to be weight
Pretty much hit the nail on the head.
I really like my hexes for building anchors, when you have a bit more time to fiddle with their placement.
A word of warning: you'll sound like you're wearing cowbells if you wear them slung during an approach.
|
|
labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
|
|
"A word of warning: you'll sound like you're wearing cowbells if you wear them slung during an approach."
???????
That's a good thing.
More cowbells!
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
These things look sweet!
|
|
Huwj
climber
|
|
I have a full set (of four) and love them. I'm also Welsh so very partial to some locally made DMM gear :)
Yes they are similar to dyneema hexcentrics but their shape makes them more versatile. Their main disadvantage is that they take more practice to place than a cam. But...
They are super cheap – in the UK a set of four costs less than one Camalot. I bought mine when I started out because I couldn't afford a full set of cams! I now have heaps of cams but still use these.
They come into their own when climbing in winter or high in the mountains. You can place them in iced up cracks and they are still bombproof.
You can bash them into position with your axe/hammer – they are super hard wearing.
They are much much lighter than a cam. Good for carrying as backups when you're not sure you need double cams...
They are colour coded so that they match up with Camalot colour scheme.
I love 'em
|
|
7SacredPools
Trad climber
Guelph, Ontario, Canada
|
|
I have a set. Half the weight of a comparable C4, they work in icy cracks, and their slings extend saving you a draw. In a constriction I use these and save the cams for more parallel placements. The only thing I don't like is the noise when they bang together. Actually hurts my ears so I have to rack them apart from each other.
|
|
not applicable
Trad climber
devon
|
|
DMM does fantastic passive pro best i have found the wild country hexs are classics but every thing DMM does is so refined and unique it's no surprise these come out better than the standard hex.
|
|
littlehammer
Mountain climber
Land of frozen crags
|
|
Save us from noise pollution from old pro on the approach.
Yeehah! Before my time.
Pretty pro like these hex's look good in the crack though.
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
|
It turns out I have a friend with a set of these I can fondle for a bit to see if I like them. These features appeal to me:
They come into their own when climbing in winter or high in the mountains. You can place them in iced up cracks and they are still bombproof.
You can bash them into position with your axe/hammer – they are super hard wearing.
They are much much lighter than a cam. Good for carrying as backups when you're not sure you need double cams...
They are colour coded so that they match up with Camalot colour scheme.
I'm definitely interested. More cowbell please...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
|
|
jstan
climber
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2014 - 12:43am PT
|
Very hard to evaluate nuts absent the chance to use them. Also be careful as the placement demonstrations provided by DMM seem absolutely perfect fits. In general the security of a placement is inversely proportional to the expansion factor. Blindly using the photos provided, the DMM's seem to have a maximum expansion factor of 15%. If you know the force you need to have held you have to derate this using the shear modulus of 6061-T6. Hard to compare these nuts to hexcentrics as they work differently, at least as I have been able to determine.
15% is quite a high expansion factor, as is asserted by DMM. They do look quite interesting.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!