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| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Mar 25, 2014 - 10:32pm PT
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right on, good suffering.
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Mar 25, 2014 - 10:47pm PT
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Quite a feat, tip of the cap, but not unmatched. Google Silvia Vidal.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Mar 25, 2014 - 10:53pm PT
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Awesome solo. ST at its best.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 25, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
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Mega adventure Dave!
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Mar 26, 2014 - 12:31am PT
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'Magic' Ed-
Yes, I can use google. You should give it a shot.
And I also understand what a Grade Seven route is. So does she. That's why she has graded her routes VI, and not VII. There are only a few walls that qualify as a VII.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Mar 26, 2014 - 01:02am PT
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Wow. Absolutely fantastic. This is like the epitome of solo adventure, thanks for sharing.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 26, 2014 - 01:34am PT
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Great article, thank you for posting. I think I saw some of your entries in the logbook of climbs in Huaraz. Remember thinking that you did some cool stuff while in the area. From big wall route on La Esfinge to FAs in the range, right?
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Mar 26, 2014 - 02:01am PT
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biotch
need to go there?! walls can be lonely places, i've only heard.
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overwatch
climber
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Mar 26, 2014 - 02:45am PT
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Great new version ...gotta push aside the slime here to get to the good stuff and this is it.
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John M
climber
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Mar 26, 2014 - 03:08am PT
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Wow.. great story. great accomplishment. Thanks for sharing that.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Mar 26, 2014 - 05:08am PT
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Yes I remember your posts too back in 08. Killer stuff!
Way badass and extremely impressive amount of commitment.
Thanks for sharing-again!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Mar 26, 2014 - 09:00am PT
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Great!!! What a feat, thanks for sharing and making ST shine.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Mar 26, 2014 - 09:03am PT
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Sick sick sick. Well done.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Mar 26, 2014 - 10:27am PT
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So big. Grand adventure man. Thanks for showing the place off. Way to go deep.
Scott
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Mar 26, 2014 - 10:34am PT
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hell yeah!!!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Mar 26, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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Awesome. That's so far out there as to be near comprehensible to us mere mortals. Wowzer! The friggan approach hike to the base was in itself heroic and would have wiped most of us out. "24 mile round trip made 11 times carrying gear", should have the words "insufferably heavy" and "cross country no trail" inserted in there.
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harpo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Mar 26, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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Dave, that is quite a feat! Which edition of the AAJ is it in? I would rather read the article in print than on my phone.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 26, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
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The friggan approach hike to the base was in itself heroic and would have wiped most of us out. "24 mile round trip made 11 times carrying gear", should have the words "insufferably heavy" and "cross country no trail" inserted in there.
Definitely a lil' rougher than the bridge to the SE base of El Cap... No mules, no porters... What??!! Who does that? Hell it's becoming a thing to hire porters to get down the East Ledges, and this BAMF...
Plus all of that before Dave actually starts his count of 34 days for the send - have I understood that right? So 34 days on the wall, plus all the other brutal enduro grinding days of suffering to get there... Imagine the f'ing mind game, how twisted you have to be to keep the psych by yourself for that long. That ain't natural!
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Mar 26, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
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Proud.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 26, 2014 - 01:33pm PT
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Becoming the first person to ever solo a Grade VII first ascent
Wasn't Porters Mt Asgard FA the first grade VII solo FA?
Great write up, and history made through suffering.
Bravo Dave!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Mar 26, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
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Awesome - thanks for sharing!
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Mar 26, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
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Porter rated his ascent a Grade VI. It is still recognized as so, and even the longer and more difficult routes on the peak are usually rated as VI's.
Since then it has seen a few speed ascents, under a day i believe.
Charlie Porter was one of the soloists that inspired me. Charles Cole, Renatto Casarotto, Eric Kohl, Jim Beyer, Mike Libecki, Nicolas Jager, and JC Lafaille were a few others. Mad props.
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Mar 26, 2014 - 03:53pm PT
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Since people are bringing up other info, here is some of what I know-
Some early attempts-
GoAbe the japanese guy on Thor= fatality
Shipton Spire attempt by an Asian guy= fatality
Jim Beyer on Thor= climbed half of route, came back next year and finished after traversing back on. never climbed at once.
Jason Smith on Thor- made a repeat ascent, not a FA
Silvia Vidal= Grade VI's solo
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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Mar 26, 2014 - 03:56pm PT
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Dave, Thanks for sharing your adventure with the rest of us. That is truly a proud ascent, and helps to remind us that "impossible" is only a limitation that we put on ourselves.
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BrentA
Gym climber
Roca Rojo
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Mar 26, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
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Hi Dave.
What you've done isn't for words...maybe pics.
Any tangles in words are the projections of men's fear.
Bull fighting, car racing, mountain climbing.
Go in peace.
Burt Bronson is proud.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 26, 2014 - 04:20pm PT
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Thanks for the clarification Dave.
So impressive!
I am curious, what type of fly system did you use? You mention 2 layers (2flys)
Cheers!
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crøtch
climber
Whale's Vagina
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Mar 26, 2014 - 04:43pm PT
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A heroic effort that leaves me speechless and is the stuff of dreams. Thanks for sharing it with us.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Mar 26, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
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Thanks for sharing your incredible adventure.
Erik
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crankster
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Mar 29, 2014 - 10:19pm PT
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Epic. Thanks.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Mar 29, 2014 - 11:09pm PT
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Porter rated his ascent a Grade VI. It is still recognized as so, and even the longer and more difficult routes on the peak are usually rated as VI's.
Since then it has seen a few speed ascents, under a day i believe.
Porter rated it VI at the time because that was the scale at the time. VII wasn't invented yet; Middendorf (I believe) added it to the scale a decade or so later, at which time the Porter route was retrospectively upgraded to VII.
The Porter route has had two? repeats, both single pushes in the 30+ hour range iirc, but not in a day. Modern grade is 5.12 A4 with three aid pitches and the rest free.
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Mar 30, 2014 - 09:53am PT
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Mar 30, 2014 - 09:56am PT
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It is funny what people post.
Welcome to Supertopo!
I love all of the speculation and guesses, you guys make me laugh. My point was to share my story, not argue about what and who has climbed a grade seven! If you want to keep speculating, maybe you should start citing sources to seem credible.
All I'm trying to do is share my story.
Any grade seven climbers wish to elaborate on whats what?
Oplopanix- Since you mentioned Middendorf, here is a photo of his that he contributed to an Alpinist article.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-dave-turner-patagonia-solo-vii
Yes, I know that everyone considered Porter's ascent to be the first grade seven back then. I am not challenging this as it is a fact, and also he was one of my heros. All I'm saying is that the route he climbed is not even close to being considered a 'VII' by modern standards. The much more difficult and steep routes next to it (on the main part of the wall) do not even get the elusive title of VII.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Mar 30, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
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Hi Dave T.
F*#king awesome adventure and write up! You had me right there with you all the way.
Cheers and thank you!
Prod.
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overwatch
climber
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Mar 31, 2014 - 07:39pm PT
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Bump badass up and bullshit off.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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No need to explain Grade VII--people who understand don't need the explanation, and those who don't might use some niche in the explanation to split some proverbial butthairs.
I don't think I invented the term Grade VII, I seem to recall that people had been using it for other Trango routes prior to our route on Great Trango...
Dave's solo on Escudo was definitely a milestone in big wall climbing, as was Breemer, Jarrett, and Santelices' ascent of the face a dozen or so years earlier. In Patagonia its all about wind conditions--prior to the Breemer, Jarrett and Santelices ascent, no big wall of that magnitude in Patagonia had been climbed alpine style--meaning, no fixed ropes to the deck. Why? because there was no bivy structure (except for the heavy Whillian's box, which was only used as a staging camp) that could withstand the gale winds. And, if I may say so, their success was in no small part to my Diamond Ledge design (aerodynamic and anchorable from both top and bottom), hot off the sewing machines at the time. I was also interested in bagging the FA of that amazing face, hence my prior exploratory trip down there and the impetus for the Diamond Ledge design--but I also couldn't resist outfitting the Jarrett's strong team and to celebrate their pioneering success.
I do believe Silvia Vidal has also climbed several Grade VII's, the big walls forum "mystery wall" which I pointed her to in India which she then climbed solo, I would most definitely consider veritable G7.
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