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Messages 1 - 37 of total 37 in this topic |
Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
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Pretty cool!
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 18, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
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Most people here would not know Stefan.
He's one of the most fluid climbers when he was in prime in the world.
Unreal to see.
He's an actor too.
Good team and two great people ....
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
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No problems hauling on that one!
Man-O-Man, Oman?
Who'd a thunk?
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 10:47pm PT
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Yes, Werner. And there are some google-able links for the cave too.
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JMC
climber
the land of milk and honey
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Mar 18, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
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I worked in Oman in 2011 - The Omanis could be a difficult people to work with, but in social settings, traveling, otherwise - awesome. It's in my top shelf of places to go back to for holiday. Limestone for days, good fossil hunting, turquoise water, good fish. Yep, two thumbs up.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Mar 18, 2014 - 11:55pm PT
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That video made my day even more awesome then it has been. TFPU
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 19, 2014 - 02:05am PT
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I'm confused. The OP states 13 pitches. The narrator says 160 metres. I'll go with the latter. Pretty cool.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 03:28am PT
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Sounds like Stefan says, "Down to the bottom, it's more than 160 meters and it's a completely different world." So, yes, what Coz says.
They rapped 160m down, walked back into the cave and climbed lots of pitches to get out. Amazing amount of work to equip the route too in addition to all the hard climbing.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:10am PT
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Some of the most incredible footage i've seen! Otherworldly shlt! What a venue!
I can't believe how efficient they are, agree with Stephen M's comment that the work that must've gone into prepping the route was immense.
I wonder how the rock quality is? There are some amazing looking features for sure. Anyone know what it is? Sandstone??
Funny as well to see Sharma chug some red bull on a portaledge & then send lol!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2014 - 08:37am PT
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There are a few shots interspersed throughout the video where you see them on the floor of the cavern. If you didn't have those moments for perspective (and they're almost easy to miss), you probably wouldn't think the thing is as huge as it is.
I also find it hard to imagine bolting that sucka.
Here's another vid that was the first in the series on this project, where Glowacz and Sharma talk a little more about climbing with each other:
http://www.outsidetelevision.com/content/light-episode-1-stefan-glowacz-and-chris-sharma
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 19, 2014 - 11:42am PT
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F*#king beautiful.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 19, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
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What a video. At the 2:10 mark i mumbled "Mercy!" out loud and the person next to me got sucked into watching as well.
The shot @ around 1:10 - is that a quadcopter doing that? Those things are changing the way we see the world, just because you don't have to have a helicopter budget to get a shot like that.
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fosburg
climber
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Mar 19, 2014 - 01:09pm PT
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Fantastic! I love their spirit, truly inspiring.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Mar 19, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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Is it just me, or is there a shot of someone standing in aiders toward the end of the video? That blank section required aid? Glossed over by the film.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 19, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
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Well, I'm guessing they sure didn't drill those bolts on lead.......
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
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Whatever Coz, got any proof that they drilled on lead?
I sure didn't see that in the film.
Who said it was a pot shot anyway? As though guessing that a giant cave had bolts placed from aid were a pot shot....
Take a Xanax bro.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
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You pretty much have to drill sh#t like that on lead.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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I meant on aid, as opposed to free. Sorry, my mistake for not clarifying that. I thought it was obvious.
So they freed an aid route, that better for you Coz?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:40pm PT
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Oh brother.
Just like every steep, hard sport route.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
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Like I said Coz, my mistake for saying lead, not aid.
No, it doesn't look like you could place anything at all on rappel there.
It's the aid part that seems obvious, no big deal, but Brandon asked.
Not the first time I ever stuck my foot in my mouth, and likely not the last, HA!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 19, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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Is red bull aid??
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Mar 19, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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I was just wondering if the whole thing went free, seeing as how they showed someone in aiders in the video that is all about free climbing except for that one shot as far as I can tell.
Right?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 19, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
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Brandon- It looks like Stefan jugged that last pitch with the haul bag.I wouldn't be surprised if he jugged the whole thing and just belayed on send day just for time management sake.
I loved this quote from Stefan
It's cool to see that you are a human being, that you have to fight for some moves as well.
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nopantsben
climber
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Mar 19, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
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i was in a cave about a mile from that. sweet place! amazing actually. we went on a 10km caving tour through the plateau, with swimming etc. pretty cool experience. Oman is a neat country. the rock in the cave i was in was horrible in the overhanging parts. that thing probably took a lot of cleaning. it's basically pebbles stuck together by sand you can scratch away with a soft tooth brush.
but holy mother of god the route does look amazing.
in oman there is great dolomites style mountains, river bed bouldering and pretty fanatastic sportclimbing, as well as some medium good but fun deep water soloing around muscat. definitely a country worth a visit if you look for a relaxed, mellow holiday with diverse climbing options and sight seeing. everyone is super friendly too and the food is cheap and excellent.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 19, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
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Coz, I am aware of his talents, it's just with that last shot of him jugging with the haul bag, it makes sense. They had a ledge and a bunch of other stuff.
Kudos if they did manage to both redpoint all 13 pitches and deal with all the logistics in one push. That would be crazy!
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BrentA
Gym climber
Roca Rojo
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Mar 19, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
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Sad to see so many of us apply closed minds to a project birthed with anything but.
That looks like a great adventure and wonderful proj for those guys to hang out on.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Mar 20, 2014 - 01:04am PT
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i was in that cave in 2002 on an assignment for NG. It's absolutely gorgeous and otherworldly.
I must admit, however, that I never even considered it as a climbing objective. Although I did think that it'd make a feasible BASE jump -- it's a straight 160 meter free drop from a slit trench skylight at the absolute apex of the chamber. I checked with Leavitt when we got back and he said it would be doable.
(There are uncounted zillions of meters of unclimbed limestone in that part of Oman. And some pretty fine looking large formations. Not to mention endless bouldering on small limestone cliffs above the beaches. I did some of that on our way to our underground excursions.)
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bpope
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Mar 20, 2014 - 01:19am PT
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Greg - you're right about the BASE jumps. Video posted from a year ago: https://vimeo.com/59836672
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Mar 20, 2014 - 01:35am PT
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Caving and climbing all rolled into one. My dream trip!
Those guys are unreal
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overwatch
climber
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Mar 20, 2014 - 02:03am PT
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Thanks for the link. Looked pretty good for supposed choss.
Yes I am old and steeped enough to know who Mr. Glowacz is. Pretty cool he is still climbing that hard.
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thesiger
climber
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Mar 31, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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I must admit, however, that I never even considered it as a climbing objective. Although I did think that it'd make a feasible BASE jump -- it's a straight 160 meter free drop from a slit trench skylight at the absolute apex of the chamber.
The Majlis has been base-jumped on at least two occasions for commercial purposes, once by Red Bull then shortly after by Land Rover. One or both of those groups left rubbish there and pissed off locals, so the consequence was the cave's access being closed ... a major blow for climbers/ cavers in the region as the SRT trip in/ out was a great adventure. It is still closed to normal mortals. In light of that, it is frustrating to see the Red Bull logo again featuring in the cave. Money talks ...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 31, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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Thesiger, great handle, and likely a name recognized by very few here.
Tip of the hat.
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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Mar 31, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
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This is not a troll question honestly....
If you look at Stefan belaying, especially exactly at 3:00, he looks only attached with a daisy chain, with the lead rope too, but the daisy looks tighter.
I thought even attaching a daisy to an anchor these days is eyed with suspicion. People up here will give you the evil eye if you bring one of those to the crag.
Not a troll,
signed confused.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Yeah Scott! I got to meet both Stephan and Wolfgang in Josh and they were both really great guys! I think this is super and what an exotic place!!
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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160 metres is roughly 500 ft. If you figure it out mathematically, with all the curves and zig zags, it could easily add up to 13 pitches.
Doesn't look like there will be a whole lot of repeat ascents.
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