Glowacz / Sharma route in Oman: Kind of a Big Roof

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Messages 1 - 37 of total 37 in this topic
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 18, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
13 pitches of 5.13a-14a roof in the second largest cavern in the world. Pretty cool vid:

http://www.climbing.com/video/chris-sharma-stefan-glowacz-reveal-secret-mega-project/
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Mar 18, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
Pretty cool!
WBraun

climber
Mar 18, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
Most people here would not know Stefan.

He's one of the most fluid climbers when he was in prime in the world.

Unreal to see.

He's an actor too.

Good team and two great people ....
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 18, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
No problems hauling on that one!

Man-O-Man, Oman?

Who'd a thunk?
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 10:47pm PT
Yes, Werner. And there are some google-able links for the cave too.
JMC

climber
the land of milk and honey
Mar 18, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
I worked in Oman in 2011 - The Omanis could be a difficult people to work with, but in social settings, traveling, otherwise - awesome. It's in my top shelf of places to go back to for holiday. Limestone for days, good fossil hunting, turquoise water, good fish. Yep, two thumbs up.
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Mar 18, 2014 - 11:55pm PT
That video made my day even more awesome then it has been. TFPU
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 19, 2014 - 02:05am PT
I'm confused. The OP states 13 pitches. The narrator says 160 metres. I'll go with the latter. Pretty cool.
Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 19, 2014 - 03:28am PT
Sounds like Stefan says, "Down to the bottom, it's more than 160 meters and it's a completely different world." So, yes, what Coz says.
They rapped 160m down, walked back into the cave and climbed lots of pitches to get out. Amazing amount of work to equip the route too in addition to all the hard climbing.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 19, 2014 - 04:10am PT
Some of the most incredible footage i've seen! Otherworldly shlt! What a venue!

I can't believe how efficient they are, agree with Stephen M's comment that the work that must've gone into prepping the route was immense.

I wonder how the rock quality is? There are some amazing looking features for sure. Anyone know what it is? Sandstone??

Funny as well to see Sharma chug some red bull on a portaledge & then send lol!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2014 - 08:37am PT
There are a few shots interspersed throughout the video where you see them on the floor of the cavern. If you didn't have those moments for perspective (and they're almost easy to miss), you probably wouldn't think the thing is as huge as it is.

I also find it hard to imagine bolting that sucka.

Here's another vid that was the first in the series on this project, where Glowacz and Sharma talk a little more about climbing with each other:

http://www.outsidetelevision.com/content/light-episode-1-stefan-glowacz-and-chris-sharma
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 19, 2014 - 11:42am PT
F*#king beautiful.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 19, 2014 - 12:55pm PT
What a video. At the 2:10 mark i mumbled "Mercy!" out loud and the person next to me got sucked into watching as well.

The shot @ around 1:10 - is that a quadcopter doing that? Those things are changing the way we see the world, just because you don't have to have a helicopter budget to get a shot like that.
fosburg

climber
Mar 19, 2014 - 01:09pm PT
Fantastic! I love their spirit, truly inspiring.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Mar 19, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
Is it just me, or is there a shot of someone standing in aiders toward the end of the video? That blank section required aid? Glossed over by the film.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 19, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
Well, I'm guessing they sure didn't drill those bolts on lead.......

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 19, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
Whatever Coz, got any proof that they drilled on lead?


I sure didn't see that in the film.

Who said it was a pot shot anyway? As though guessing that a giant cave had bolts placed from aid were a pot shot....

Take a Xanax bro.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 19, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
You pretty much have to drill sh#t like that on lead.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 19, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
I meant on aid, as opposed to free. Sorry, my mistake for not clarifying that. I thought it was obvious.

So they freed an aid route, that better for you Coz?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 19, 2014 - 04:40pm PT
Oh brother.

Just like every steep, hard sport route.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 19, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
Like I said Coz, my mistake for saying lead, not aid.

No, it doesn't look like you could place anything at all on rappel there.

It's the aid part that seems obvious, no big deal, but Brandon asked.


Not the first time I ever stuck my foot in my mouth, and likely not the last, HA!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 19, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
Is red bull aid??
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Mar 19, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
I was just wondering if the whole thing went free, seeing as how they showed someone in aiders in the video that is all about free climbing except for that one shot as far as I can tell.

Right?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 19, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
Brandon- It looks like Stefan jugged that last pitch with the haul bag.I wouldn't be surprised if he jugged the whole thing and just belayed on send day just for time management sake.


I loved this quote from Stefan

It's cool to see that you are a human being, that you have to fight for some moves as well.
nopantsben

climber
Mar 19, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
i was in a cave about a mile from that. sweet place! amazing actually. we went on a 10km caving tour through the plateau, with swimming etc. pretty cool experience. Oman is a neat country. the rock in the cave i was in was horrible in the overhanging parts. that thing probably took a lot of cleaning. it's basically pebbles stuck together by sand you can scratch away with a soft tooth brush.
but holy mother of god the route does look amazing.

in oman there is great dolomites style mountains, river bed bouldering and pretty fanatastic sportclimbing, as well as some medium good but fun deep water soloing around muscat. definitely a country worth a visit if you look for a relaxed, mellow holiday with diverse climbing options and sight seeing. everyone is super friendly too and the food is cheap and excellent.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 19, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
Coz, I am aware of his talents, it's just with that last shot of him jugging with the haul bag, it makes sense. They had a ledge and a bunch of other stuff.

Kudos if they did manage to both redpoint all 13 pitches and deal with all the logistics in one push. That would be crazy!
BrentA

Gym climber
Roca Rojo
Mar 19, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
Sad to see so many of us apply closed minds to a project birthed with anything but.

That looks like a great adventure and wonderful proj for those guys to hang out on.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Mar 20, 2014 - 01:04am PT
i was in that cave in 2002 on an assignment for NG. It's absolutely gorgeous and otherworldly.

I must admit, however, that I never even considered it as a climbing objective. Although I did think that it'd make a feasible BASE jump -- it's a straight 160 meter free drop from a slit trench skylight at the absolute apex of the chamber. I checked with Leavitt when we got back and he said it would be doable.

(There are uncounted zillions of meters of unclimbed limestone in that part of Oman. And some pretty fine looking large formations. Not to mention endless bouldering on small limestone cliffs above the beaches. I did some of that on our way to our underground excursions.)
bpope

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Mar 20, 2014 - 01:15am PT
Sounds like Stefan was injured during the climb, which would explain the jugging.

Source: http://www.timesofoman.com/News/Article-31299.aspx
bpope

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Mar 20, 2014 - 01:19am PT
Greg - you're right about the BASE jumps. Video posted from a year ago: https://vimeo.com/59836672
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 20, 2014 - 01:35am PT
Caving and climbing all rolled into one. My dream trip!

Those guys are unreal
overwatch

climber
Mar 20, 2014 - 02:03am PT
Thanks for the link. Looked pretty good for supposed choss.
Yes I am old and steeped enough to know who Mr. Glowacz is. Pretty cool he is still climbing that hard.
thesiger

climber
Mar 31, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
I must admit, however, that I never even considered it as a climbing objective. Although I did think that it'd make a feasible BASE jump -- it's a straight 160 meter free drop from a slit trench skylight at the absolute apex of the chamber.

The Majlis has been base-jumped on at least two occasions for commercial purposes, once by Red Bull then shortly after by Land Rover. One or both of those groups left rubbish there and pissed off locals, so the consequence was the cave's access being closed ... a major blow for climbers/ cavers in the region as the SRT trip in/ out was a great adventure. It is still closed to normal mortals. In light of that, it is frustrating to see the Red Bull logo again featuring in the cave. Money talks ...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 31, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
Thesiger, great handle, and likely a name recognized by very few here.
Tip of the hat.
Gerg

Trad climber
Calgary
Mar 31, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
This is not a troll question honestly....
If you look at Stefan belaying, especially exactly at 3:00, he looks only attached with a daisy chain, with the lead rope too, but the daisy looks tighter.
I thought even attaching a daisy to an anchor these days is eyed with suspicion. People up here will give you the evil eye if you bring one of those to the crag.
Not a troll,
signed confused.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Apr 1, 2014 - 12:55am PT
Yeah Scott! I got to meet both Stephan and Wolfgang in Josh and they were both really great guys! I think this is super and what an exotic place!!
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Apr 1, 2014 - 06:15pm PT
160 metres is roughly 500 ft. If you figure it out mathematically, with all the curves and zig zags, it could easily add up to 13 pitches.

Doesn't look like there will be a whole lot of repeat ascents.
Messages 1 - 37 of total 37 in this topic
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