Big oops in R&I April 2014 p.28?

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brett

climber
oregon
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 22, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
I dunno, I haven't climbed either route in 20 years, but that full page profile of EBGBs in the current issue sure looks like a picture of Loose Lady. ?!? Big screw up by the editor or is my memory going?
brett

climber
oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
looks like Loose Lady to me
looks like Loose Lady to me
Credit: brett
Credit: brett
Bad Climber

climber
Feb 22, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
You're right! It is absolutely Loose Lady, and a fine route she is--more in line for mere mortals. That curving crack and buttress behind are dead giveaways. Thanks for the heads up. Funny.

BAd
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 22, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
Blowing it for sure! Lol
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 22, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
JJ poofed it.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Feb 22, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
D'oh!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 22, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
indeed.

but yr a week behind facebook.

but yr demonstrating good choss knowledge.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Feb 22, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
How embarrassing.

then again, I only say "oh yeah, that route over there. The good one with friction." for any route in Josh
ruppell

climber
Feb 22, 2014 - 10:17pm PT
Am I the only one who thought the start mantle was way harder than anything else on the route?

Here's a good shot of it.

G_Gnome

Trad climber
who gave up and just goes sailing now!
Feb 22, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
Glad my routes are so well thought of. The crux of EBGBs probably is the mantle, which has gotten harder over the years. But the psych crux is the slopey holded runout at the top. The whole middle of the route is actually quite a bit easier then when we put it up because all the holds have been scooped out by climbing on then the last 40 years.
ruppell

climber
Feb 22, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
G_Gmome

I don't know which of the 4 FA's you are but it's a proud line. Today or in the late 70's. Somehow it maintains this aura of "Holy Shite I'm gonna die". Maybe 10+ slab isn't that hard by todays standards. You're route will still get you a beer at the end of the day though. I tip of my hat to you. And thanks for a "killer" line. lol
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Feb 22, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
I epic'd on EBGB's back in the late 70's. After finally working up the courage to do that initial mantle start, I traversed left and made the step onto the main face, then began pulling on those edges and smears in earnest.

This was the first route I had ever used these new things known as "quick runners"....and I had them on a sling over my shoulder.

Halfway up the main face, nervously eyeing the next bolt as I drew closer to it, I suddenly heard my runners go clinking down the face....the knot in my sling had come untied, and I was a LONG way above the last bolt.

The only other biner I had was a locker holding my Sticht plate, and I could not let go to take it off my harness.

My partner begged me to "just jump". Not wanting any part of that, with full cottonmouth, I went to the top of the route.

My partner was so shaken he refused to follow the route.

The whole event still turns my stomach.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 22, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
Glad my routes are so well thought of

this one, anyway, heh. good on ya.

location is everything. ebgbs is really cool partly because it's one of the most visible routes in the park. you can see it from the road and much of the campground. sort of a jtree-smallscale-grainmuffin version of the view of eigerwand from grindelwald.

ok, that's a stretch. but it's funny how exposure is a whole lot worse when you walk into it, rather than climbing upwards in graduated increments.

great route.

T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Feb 23, 2014 - 03:03am PT
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Feb 23, 2014 - 11:41am PT
Jeebus, how does a photo editor of a well-known rock mag make a blooper like that?
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Feb 23, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
Tucker Tech broke his ankle on it, was that the fall that sheared the aluminum hanger, leading to the upgrade on the bolts?
fluffy

Trad climber
Colorado
Feb 23, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
Jeebus, how does a photo editor of a well-known rock mag make a blooper like that?

Rock and Ice is crap

Nice pic of loose lady though
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Feb 23, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
Jeebus, how does a photo editor of a well-known rock mag make a blooper like that?


A. They are professional journalists.

B. They are based in Colorado.
cleggy

Trad climber
Derby, UK
Feb 23, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
Cragman, good story. Been there and like you, still here. Steve
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Feb 23, 2014 - 05:36pm PT
Funny thing, though, is that most of the readers won't know the difference.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 23, 2014 - 06:05pm PT
Such an iconic and storied line... one of those routes where everyone has a story attached to it. I remember being at a Sterling Rope clinic out there and a Japanese athlete of theirs took a huge scraper on it... laughed it off, finished the pitch blooded up and smiling.

Up there with Figures, Left Ski Track etc where you fight the name and history long before grappling the dime edges!
fluffy

Trad climber
Colorado
Feb 23, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
this line, a lowly 5.10

spare us the condescension Simon

you didn't even climb the right route lol
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Feb 23, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
Although I had that close call on the route in 1979, it did not keep me away. In fact quite the contrary....I actually got a bit addicted to the line...so much so that it cost me another very hairraising incident on it.

Around the mid-80's, I wanted to take a friend on the route. We drove out to Josh from San Diego on a cool, blustery winter day and "warmed up" on Heart and Sole. There was a strong wind blowing across the race, from left to right, and though it was clear, we were quite cold.

However, by this time I had done EBGBs around a dozen times, and I really wanted to get Earl on the route, so on up I went. I turned the corner onto the main face, right into the teeth of that wind, which made a whistling noise at it raced through the holes on the bolts.

I climbed the route with my right leg flagged out hard, to check the barn door effect. That ascent brought back the sickening feeling that I had on that first ascent...but I did not take any falls.

In fact, I have never fallen on the route.....I've always been TOO damned scared to fall on that thing!!!
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