I probably got a B on the route we were working...
...very slick water polish, dribs of water here and there (it is spring, after all)
4 pitches up, had to reroute the 4th pitch but not without a fight...
after Eric came down from his attempt I got to try.
Starting from the belay, the first move was a prelude to all those that followed. Pimping off of very slick holds, even the incuts seemed frictionless. But a series of face moves, each delicately executed, gets to the left facing corner with a thin-hands to hands crack, straight in. But even the jams were slick, usually that size would be secure, and the angle wasn't very steep, but without much friction all of it was cautious dancing.
Up to the roof. The crack split the right hand side, but the roof itself was arched like a breaking wave causing the crack to scimitar back towards you. The right hand side of the corner had a few desperate suggestions for footholds, all of them similar in quality to the rest of the pitch, frictionless.
After three moves I could get a great jam in at the point of the breaking wave in that crack, but with no feet and the crack flaring gloriously above the roof, there wasn't a lot in my tool box to solve this particular problem.
I tried to get a chicken-wing into the flare, but with no feet and my left wrist as a pivot point, I couldn't get the necessary leverage to lift up and in.
On another attempt I jammed the right hand in half thinking I could get a foot up and in, channeling Dick Cilley... no go.
The left hand jammed again and the right foot on an impossibly tiny point on a narrow edge was too much for me.
Six different ways and not even getting close... I bailed off a single nut leaving it and a biner.
We definitely thought that this was 5.11 something... not really for this route...
but who knows, we might go back up and top rope it and unlock the mystery of that passage.