The mother of all traverses: The Fitz Traverse.

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rolo

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2014 - 12:45am PT
From the lowest of lows: Chad Kellogg's recent death on the Supercanaleta, to the highest of highs: the mother of all traverses...

Between the 12th and 16th of February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz Traverse", climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia.

This ridge-line involves climbing Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juárez, Aguja Saint-Exúpery and Aguja de l'S.

In all they climbed across over five kilometers of ridge line, covering close to 4000 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to 7a (5.11d) C1 65 degrees. They simul-climbed much of the climb, dispatching 20-pitch sections such as Pilar Goretta in a mere three pitches.

They started at 9:45AM on the 12th climbing the “Brenner-Moschioni” route in two pitches to reach the summit of Aguja Guillaumet by 12:15PM. They continued south, along the Cresta Sur to reach Aguja Mermoz, climbing the “Argentina” route to reach the summit by 5PM. Four hours later they decided to stop to bivy, placing their tent in the ridge leading to Aguja Val Biois.

On the 13th they started at 8:30AM, climbing past Aguja Val Biois to reach the col at the base of Pilar Goretta at 11:30AM. In three pitches they climbed the “Casarotto” route with the “Kearney-Knight” variation to reach the summit of the pillar and start up the final headwall at 7:45PM. Finding terrible conditions in the upper headwall, with way too much rime and ice in the cracks, they were forced to slow down, reaching the summit of Cerro Fitz Roy at 2:30AM.

On the morning of the 14th, after a short night just below the summit they rappelled the Franco-Argentina reaching La Silla at 12:45PM and weaving their way through the various summits of Aguja Kakito to reach the base of the “Potter-Davis” route on Aguja Poincenot by 6PM. Short-fixing they made quick work of it, reaching the summit by 9:15PM.

On the morning of the 15th they rappelled “Judgment Day” to reach the Col SUSAT by 11:30AM. At noon they started up the “Piola-Anker” route on Aguja Rafael Juárez, climbing it in two pitches to reach the summit at 2:15PM. By 4:30PM they had traversed the ridge to Aguja Saint-Exúpery and by 6:20PM they were in the summit, having climbed it in a mere two pitches.

By this point their rope was reduced to 38 meters in length so they made an endless number of rappels down the “Austríaca” to reach the Col de los Austríacos, setting camp for the night in the boulderfield at the base of the final climb, the north ridge of Aguja de l'S.

In the morning of the 16th they climbed that final section, doing a single pitch to reach the summit by 8:50AM, descending east to reach the glacier just after 10AM.

On this epic adventure they took:
 two backpacks (35 and 25 liters)
 one sleeping bag
 a BD First Light tent
 a stove and three gas canisters
 one ice tool
 two pairs of aluminum crampons
 one ice-screw
 2 each Camalots to #2
 1 Camalot #3
 two sets of Stoppers
 a 60m 9.8mm lead line
 an 80m 6mm tag line
 three ascenders/locking pulleys (Petzl Micro-traxion, Kong Duck and Futura)
 6 quick-draws
 14 slings

It should be noted that their success was in spite of very bad conditions, with much ice and snow in the cracks and on the ridges courtesy of one of the wettest summer seasons in many years.

Caldwell and Honnold wore rockshoes to climb Pilar Goretta and the north face of Aguja Poincenot but climbed everything else wearing approach shoes (!!).

This was Honnold's first climb in Patagonia… Over the years Caldwell has done a number of impressive ascents in the area, most notably the first free and onsight ascent of Linea de Eleganza on Cerro Fitz Roy.

Respect, respect and more respect.

The gothic beauty of the Fitz Roy skyline.
The gothic beauty of the Fitz Roy skyline.
Credit: rolo

Tommy and Alex on the first peak of many, on Aguja Guillaumet.
Tommy and Alex on the first peak of many, on Aguja Guillaumet.
Credit: rolo
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:51am PT
Speechless.....Respect and wide eyed wonder!
TY
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:53am PT
Unreal. Makes my brain hurt just thinking about it.

Kudos to the both of them.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:57am PT
i would need a chopper to do that,
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:01am PT
strong work
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:02am PT
Well,

That answers THAT !

What a great adventure.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:03am PT
They're going to get out of shape for real climbing if they keep up this alpinism business.

:P
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:03am PT
Impressive! Those are some fit dudes.
Chief

climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:12am PT
Jeez…I mean…gosh almighty….that's chimpressive!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:13am PT
What the...


bearbnz

Trad climber
East Side, California
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:14am PT
Absolutely amazing.
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:26am PT
impeccable... beautiful... proud... mindboggling... inspiring...

even superlative descriptions sound trite compared to what was actually accomplished...

congrats gents.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:35am PT
Wow ! X 10. Nice job guys.

Plaid
gf

climber
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:42am PT
Now we're talking climbing-well done.
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:48am PT
I love the line from Rolo's report;

'This was Honnold's first climb in Patagonia.'
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:02am PT
Uh uh? Aliens....not of this earth...
Susan
weezy

climber
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:07am PT
looks like a fun route :)
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:12am PT
This is amazing!! Thank you for reporting Rolo! Soo sick

Edit: so THIS is what they mean by "The New Alpinism" !!!
Jaysen

Trad climber
NY
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:22am PT
seriously....
Fletcher

Gym climber
A very quiet place
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:28am PT
Holy shite on multiple levels! Hats off to those gents! Needs to scrape my jaw off the ground.

Eric
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:37am PT
Wow! Simply Amazing! They must have some really killer approach shoes :-)

Not to criticize their achievement, but in looking at Rolo's photo it looks like there is a pinnacle/summit just right of Fitzroy that didn't appear to have been climbed. Is that just something misleading in the photo?

Again, before people start jumping on me for downplaying this incredible accomplishment I am just asking for a clarification given what's on Rolo's photo.
bigbird

climber
WA
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:42am PT
I away thought the full traverse of the Torres del Paine mastiff in patagonia or the Arwa group in india was the "mother of all traverses"... Guess it a subjective opinion...

enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:47am PT
I thought Mathes Crest was the mother of all traverses. Relative indeed
tooth

Trad climber
B.C.
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:48am PT
Soon they will have to look off-earth for a challenge.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Feb 18, 2014 - 03:01am PT
Cool
rolo

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2014 - 03:12am PT
Not to criticize their achievement, but in looking at Rolo's photo it looks like there is a pinnacle/summit just right of Fitzroy that didn't appear to have been climbed. Is that just something misleading in the photo?

Again, before people start jumping on me for downplaying this incredible accomplishment I am just asking for a clarification given what's on Rolo's photo.

if you take the time to look at the photo I posted you will see a note written right on the photo itself explaining that the summit that is "bypassed" by the route line is actually not on the same ridge line, it is much further west. It is called Aguja de la Silla which along with Aguja Desmochada is not part of the Fitz Roy ridge line/skyline, has never been, never will be. They are both in a separate rib, that dead ends.
adnix

Big Wall climber
Finland
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:36am PT
The climbing has been quite interesting in the upper parts of Gorretta. They had two pairs of aluminium crampons, one ice screw, one ice axe and sneakers.

Just about the right equipment for some mixed climbing... =)
Cosmin

Big Wall climber
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:53am PT
Stunning!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Feb 18, 2014 - 08:22am PT
Classic alpinism at it finest! Minimal equipment, maximal effort and results with one ice tool and one sleeping bag, all in a push. Congo Rats good sirs. We will be remembering this one.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Feb 18, 2014 - 09:47am PT
Excellent!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 18, 2014 - 09:52am PT
There you go. The meteoric trajectory from gym climber to sport twinkie to uber alpinist. jaw dropping! Next up is the West cwm horseshoe?
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Feb 18, 2014 - 09:55am PT
Fantastic!!!!
gf

climber
Feb 18, 2014 - 10:00am PT
Bruce -the prize of the horseshoe will likely require an upgrade from approach shoes -at least to a hi-top with extra socks....
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 18, 2014 - 10:06am PT
and a parasol !
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Feb 18, 2014 - 10:12am PT
Awesome!

Always wondered what would happen if these new amazing rock stars got into alpinism. Thought we might see stuff like this. People have been talking about what these kind of folks might do for years.

The future is finally here.

WOOHOO!

Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Feb 18, 2014 - 10:14am PT
complimenti, hoomaikai ana, lelo hoomaikai, wir gratulieren, chugha haeyo, omedetōgozaimasu, pozdravlyayu, etc. allez

I bet they'll be traveling. Thought they might be able to use some language skills.

Also, Donini is down there yeah? Maybe they could run a first aid/anchor building clinic.

WOW ...
SuburbanMountaineer

Mountain climber
Alexandria, VA
Feb 18, 2014 - 10:47am PT
Rolo said it right: "Respect, respect and more respect."
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Feb 18, 2014 - 10:54am PT
Solid team.
10b4me

climber
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:23am PT
Awesome. Thanks for posting this, Rolo.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:45am PT
Good stuff. What an amazing skyline.

I bet Honnold will be back by himself for a helmet free ascent soon.
adikted

Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:49am PT
RESPECT!!
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:59am PT
I thought Alex was just a west coast soloer.......ha! Latok, watch out!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:12pm PT
Yea, amazing. Doing Cassoroto itself in 20something pitches would be awesome some day! haha
ecflau

Gym climber
CA
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
mucha wowowowow
Slim Bouguerra

Mountain climber
Urbana
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:22pm PT
one sleeping bag...i wonder who was big spoon ?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
one sleeping bag...i wonder who was big spoon ?

real alpinists fork.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:35pm PT
... and they make it look like a day at the gym... RSPCT...
The Dak

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
Very impressive. Like Rolo said, it is all the more impressive because conditions on this window certainly weren't perfect, especially compared to what we saw last year or the year before. We came up the North Pillar the day after Tommy and Alex, and this is what the headwall pitches on Fitz looked like for us. It could have only been wetter and icier for them. Respect.

Kevin Prince climbing the first pitch of the headwall above the Gorett...
Kevin Prince climbing the first pitch of the headwall above the Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy
Credit: The Dak
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
Definitely one of the most impressive climbing feats of all time.

Really proud of those guys right now.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
Uhhh, Coz? I think most here are typing that this is astonishing.

Catherine Destivelle connected this thread to her FB page.

Huge congrats to Caldwell & Honnold.

Did they "Honnold" anywhere on the route ?

:-D
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
Mind blown. Respect enshrined.

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:45pm PT
Holy crap!, what could be next? It seems like these guys are just getting warmed up.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:09pm PT
Typical Super Topo...

People have no idea how incredible this is.

When I was in Paine in 89, and later leading a guided trek in Fitztroy in 93

Jesus Coz, we get it. You're badass too. We'll try to keep that in mind.
Handjam Belay

Gym climber
expat from the truth
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:16pm PT
I'm trying to think of what I did interesting between the 12-16 of this month.

I feel like Tommy and Alex are a great balance. With a bit more experience in the greater ranges what will they turn they eye toward?

"First climb in Patagonia". JUST BEYOND.
eagle

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
WHO PAYS FOR THESE CLOWNS TO GALAVANT AROUND? I THINK THE MONEY WOULD BE BETTER SPENT FEEDING THE HOMELESS AND OR SENIORS TO BUY PROPAIN TO HEAT THEIR HOUSES. I HIGHLY DOUBT THESE GUYS HOLD DOWN JOBS AND SAVE TO AFFORD THESE ADVENTURES.
Double D

climber
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
Incredible feat! Congratulations guys!
Yeti

Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:44pm PT
Thanks Rolo for getting the word out about this amazing accomplishment. Lest ANYONE forget, what Alex and Tommy did here would not have happened without your pioneering efforts, starting when you were a teen-ager, in the Fitz Roy area. As is always the case, one generation lights the way for the next. And, impressively, your fire is still burning so very bright. As mentioned, thanks, Rolo.
Yeti and Jeannie
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
I smell 'Piolet d'Or.'
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Feb 18, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
Astounding.. Incredible..
Magic Ed

Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Feb 18, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
I've said it before and I'll say it again. Alex is either an alien or some kind of mutant.
bigbird

climber
WA
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
I smell 'Piolet d'Or.'

Not this year, the "big list" has already been published...
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41567

Still impressive though... I could see them taking free climbing to himalaya, Bhagirathi 3, Arwa tower and so on... La sportiva might have to make them some insulated rock shoes though..


moacman

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:33pm PT
What can one say........simply outstanding.....

Stevo
Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
!Respeto!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Feb 18, 2014 - 05:22pm PT
I am speechless.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Feb 18, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
¡tan impresionante! The Power of Empanadas!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 18, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
This isn't April first, is it?
Dirtbag Wannabe

Mountain climber
Westminster, CO
Feb 18, 2014 - 10:08pm PT
Dawn Wall. Sendero Luminoso free solo. Now the Fitzroy traverse. Human powered flight must be up next. I'm buying Brendan Leonard a beer and planning a word tour of the greatest 5.7's ever known... Honnold doing this on his first trip is like learning Messner soloed Everest without supplemental oxygen.
MisterE

climber
Feb 18, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
Thanks Rolo - the inspirational climbing is a perfect off-set to the tragedy.

Erik
budmiller

Trad climber
California
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
Whoever posted the picture above me wins. ^

Also great job guys!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:07pm PT
Whew! These guys are hitting some serious stride . . . such an Irie team.

Thank you Rolo for your correspondence, not to mention your own contributions to alpinism.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
damn. Pretty Super...human.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 18, 2014 - 11:29pm PT
Wow.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Feb 19, 2014 - 12:29am PT
ok, that's freaking proud. way to have a good time boys. ss
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Feb 19, 2014 - 01:31am PT

I smell 'Piolet d'Or.'

Not this year, the "big list" has already been published...
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41567

The list you refer to is for climbs completed in 2013. If I am not mistaken I believe Caldwell and Honnold completed their climb in 2014:-)
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Feb 19, 2014 - 01:35am PT
!!!!!
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 19, 2014 - 02:11am PT
just amazing.

i like this bit:

By this point their rope was reduced to 38 meters in length
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Feb 19, 2014 - 02:26am PT
Amazing! Was it Royal Robbins who wrote about Yosemite climbers going off to the rest of the world to apply what they learned in the Valley? Or are they applying in Yosemite stuff they learned in Patagonia?
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Feb 19, 2014 - 02:45am PT
“The future of Yosemite climbing lies not in Yosemite, but in using the new techniques in the great granite ranges of the world.” — Yvon Chouinard, 1963 ...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 19, 2014 - 04:36am PT
hey there say, rolo... very impressive rocks... :O

thanks for the map, it helps me understand better...


also, as to this:

It should be noted that their success was in spite of very bad conditions, with much ice and snow in the cracks and on the ridges courtesy of one of the wettest summer seasons in many years.

Caldwell and Honnold wore rockshoes to climb Pilar Goretta and the north face of Aguja Poincenot but climbed everything else wearing approach shoes (!!).

This was Honnold's first climb in Patagonia… Over the years Caldwell has done a number of impressive ascents in the area, most notably the first free and onsight ascent of Linea de Eleganza on Cerro Fitz Roy.e


thank you for the special note as to the climbers of special rock...
and how it was done-- "wettest season" and all, :O
bigbird

climber
WA
Feb 19, 2014 - 05:34am PT
bhilden-

Point taken... Though technically one is nominated for a the award the year following the ascent, usually in february...

Impressive none the less... Hailing them as the next generation of "super-alpinist"? Maybe... I have my doubts... Mad free climbing ability does not make you an "super alpinist"... A strong pallet of diverse skills is needed to partake in that activity...

Then again I don't know them personally... They might have substantial mixed, ice and aid climbing skills I don't know about... In that case they might very well be the next generation of super alpinist...
Degaine

climber
Feb 19, 2014 - 07:01am PT
What a fantastic alpine adventure! Thanks for sharing.

Climbing skills are the foundation, but these two clearly have the rope handling skills and wherewithal to move fast on alpine rock (even covered in rime ice).

Look forward to seeing photos (if there are any).
Sketch

Trad climber
H-ville
Feb 19, 2014 - 07:53am PT
Amazing. Respect.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Feb 19, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
So this is basically the extended version of the Care Bear Traverse?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Feb 19, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
Mad free climbing ability does not make you an "super alpinist"... A strong pallet of diverse skills is needed to partake in that activity...

Actually if history is any indication it sure can if you're talking alpinism at the technical level. Look at it this way BB, can a mediocre free climber fire off Trango tower, G4, Cerro Torre or any other hard ( technical) to tick summit, even if he's been a mountain guide for twenty years?

No. But as we can see a smoking good valley free climber can. He may be sticking his neck out a bit more with lack of big mountain eperience but if it was a one off race and I was to put money on someone, it would be the skilled climber.

The tricky part is making it a long term thing, but usually eperience builds and before you know it, they're solid.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 19, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
But as we can see a smoking good valley free climber can

Boom!
bigbird

climber
WA
Feb 19, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
Look at it this way BB, can a mediocre free climber fire off Trango tower, G4, Cerro Torre or any other hard ( technical) to tick summit,

Yes "technically" one can. Conrad Anker has been quoted as saying he can only climb 5.12 something while "in shape" and yet has climbed big lines all over the world...

I'm not hating on the accomplishment, its a beautiful line, done in good style, I hope they continue alpine climbing. But groundbreaking? I am skeptical... Free climbers have been going big in the alpine for years. Peter Croft and Mauro Bole being notable examples...
crøtch

climber
Whale's Vagina
Feb 19, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
Looks like more good weather on the way for Sunday through Wednesday. Suerte to everyone down there and thanks for letting us live vicariously through your adventures.
Ralph S.

climber
Boise, ID
Feb 19, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
Easy climbs in dangerous places is one thing, but hard climbs in dangerous places is another level! Excellent job!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 19, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
Good gawd!!
mission

Social climber
boulder,co
Feb 20, 2014 - 12:21am PT
Pretty amazing accomplishment- congratulations! It's been tried for years by some of the best in the business.

A couple of interesting things about the gear list. Not many parties carry a tent, most use a double bivy sack. And Rolo doesn't mention any food- maybe it's just too heavy.

Hats off to these guys- I'm still trying to bag these summits a la carte!
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Feb 20, 2014 - 10:39am PT
Sorry if this has already been mentioned. I read little of the history, and I may have forgotten. Didn't the Hubers also make an attempt?



No jingoism intended, go team Calirado, Colofornia?
Stevee B

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
Feb 20, 2014 - 11:02am PT
Staggergingly impressive. Inspiring.
The bit about the 38m rope remaining was a tease, more about that please ;-)
Triple props for doing it in poor conditions. Can't wait to hear more about this.
duncan

climber
London, UK
Feb 20, 2014 - 03:19pm PT
Hazel Findlay interviews Alex Honnold: "I think I'll be back next year to climb some more mountains, or harder routes, or whatever else. I think this was a good sample platter for the range. Now I'm hungry for more."
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 20, 2014 - 06:16pm PT

Unbelievable. What's next????
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 20, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
The next morning they were up at it again at 7:30AM, merely 3 hours later... If that is not hardcore what is?

Hardcore? I guess those guys didn't want to enjoy their time up there and take in the views. Meh.

just kidding!

3 hours of rest is not much, I'd want 5.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Feb 20, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
Hazel: How much did you cuddle up to Tommy?

Alex: In some countries, we would probably have been stoned to death. But, thankfully, we were far above any kind of law enforcement. Next time we might do two light sleeping bags instead, just for comfort. Dialling in the bivy scene is definitely one of the cruxes.

:)
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
Mar 5, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
Like someone else said the future is here. Having climbed around a bit down there I just can't even grasp moving that fast. It's a very beautiful thing they've done.
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
Mar 10, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
somebody should tell these kids that mountain climbing is WAY more dangerous than rockclimbing ,,
Silviy Moroyna

Big Wall climber
Maribor, Slovenia
Mar 12, 2014 - 03:06pm PT
»PATAGONIA VERTICAL«  <br/>
Rolando Garibotti in Dorte Pietron  <br/>
Even if ...
»PATAGONIA VERTICAL«
Rolando Garibotti in Dorte Pietron
Even if you are not a mountaineer, means to take in hand and skim this Patagonia guidebook peculiar pleasure! More than 360 great photos from the very end of South America, peaks, walls and awes
Credit: Silviy Moroyna
»PATAGONIA VERTICAL«
Rolando Garibotti in Dorte Pietron
Even if you are not a mountaineer, means to take in hand and skim this Patagonia guidebook peculiar pleasure! More than 360 great photos from the very end of South America, peaks, walls and awesome views, dominated by Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, provide exceptional visual appearance and functional excellence guide. The edition, which will, if not already, become a "mountaineering bible" of all admirers of mountain range Chalten. International attention to the conductor probably increased the prize at mountain film festival in Banff! Another outstanding work of our dear Sidarta publishers. :-)
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Mar 12, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
Impressive none the less... Hailing them as the next generation of "super-alpinist"? Maybe... I have my doubts... Mad free climbing ability does not make you an "super alpinist"... A strong pallet of diverse skills is needed to partake in that activity...

I've always thought that free rock climbing skills translate strongly to every aspect of the climbing game, including slog mountaineering as well as aid climbing. I think of it as the basis of understanding movement in the mountains.

Look around at the young bucks setting today's alpine standards. In addition to what Tommy and Honnold have done, Hayden Kennedy has accomplished things in the alpine that his partners have sometimes said they could not have pulled off without his outstanding free climbing skills. Josh Wharton is a phenomenal free climber. The best European super-alpinists tend to be excellent free climbers. . think Ueli Steck. Steve House has been around for a while and what he and Vince Anderson have done has to a certain extent re-defined the super-alpine game. Both of those guys are excellent free rock climbers.

Just to belabor the point, Rolo is an amazing free climber, and he and House fired off the Infinite Spur far faster than anyone thus far.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 12, 2014 - 07:07pm PT
By any definition this is an incredible, yes, unbelievable feat of Planning, Fitness, and Determination, with a whole lotta Luck into the bargain.

They did make a pact with Old Patch, ya know.

Really, when I first saw Dorworthy's presentation of the Funhog Expedition in the Visitor's Center in 1970 at that AAC meeting everyone seems to have forgotten but me, we were stunned by the place, the weather, the result, and we n00bs wondered what the hell we were getting into.

My heart soars like the hawk, Tommy and Alex. Let's eat. You must be hungry.

Woo-hoo! for Yosemite hardmen, pursuing either alpinism or rock climbing--just bring it on.
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