Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2014 - 12:45am PT
From the lowest of lows: Chad Kellogg's recent death on the Supercanaleta, to the highest of highs: the mother of all traverses...
Between the 12th and 16th of February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz Traverse", climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia.
This ridge-line involves climbing Aguja Guillaumet, Aguja Mermoz, Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot, Aguja Rafael Juárez, Aguja Saint-Exúpery and Aguja de l'S.
In all they climbed across over five kilometers of ridge line, covering close to 4000 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to 7a (5.11d) C1 65 degrees. They simul-climbed much of the climb, dispatching 20-pitch sections such as Pilar Goretta in a mere three pitches.
They started at 9:45AM on the 12th climbing the “Brenner-Moschioni” route in two pitches to reach the summit of Aguja Guillaumet by 12:15PM. They continued south, along the Cresta Sur to reach Aguja Mermoz, climbing the “Argentina” route to reach the summit by 5PM. Four hours later they decided to stop to bivy, placing their tent in the ridge leading to Aguja Val Biois.
On the 13th they started at 8:30AM, climbing past Aguja Val Biois to reach the col at the base of Pilar Goretta at 11:30AM. In three pitches they climbed the “Casarotto” route with the “Kearney-Knight” variation to reach the summit of the pillar and start up the final headwall at 7:45PM. Finding terrible conditions in the upper headwall, with way too much rime and ice in the cracks, they were forced to slow down, reaching the summit of Cerro Fitz Roy at 2:30AM.
On the morning of the 14th, after a short night just below the summit they rappelled the Franco-Argentina reaching La Silla at 12:45PM and weaving their way through the various summits of Aguja Kakito to reach the base of the “Potter-Davis” route on Aguja Poincenot by 6PM. Short-fixing they made quick work of it, reaching the summit by 9:15PM.
On the morning of the 15th they rappelled “Judgment Day” to reach the Col SUSAT by 11:30AM. At noon they started up the “Piola-Anker” route on Aguja Rafael Juárez, climbing it in two pitches to reach the summit at 2:15PM. By 4:30PM they had traversed the ridge to Aguja Saint-Exúpery and by 6:20PM they were in the summit, having climbed it in a mere two pitches.
By this point their rope was reduced to 38 meters in length so they made an endless number of rappels down the “Austríaca” to reach the Col de los Austríacos, setting camp for the night in the boulderfield at the base of the final climb, the north ridge of Aguja de l'S.
In the morning of the 16th they climbed that final section, doing a single pitch to reach the summit by 8:50AM, descending east to reach the glacier just after 10AM.
On this epic adventure they took: two backpacks (35 and 25 liters) one sleeping bag a BD First Light tent a stove and three gas canisters one ice tool two pairs of aluminum crampons one ice-screw 2 each Camalots to #2 1 Camalot #3 two sets of Stoppers a 60m 9.8mm lead line an 80m 6mm tag line three ascenders/locking pulleys (Petzl Micro-traxion, Kong Duck and Futura) 6 quick-draws 14 slings
It should be noted that their success was in spite of very bad conditions, with much ice and snow in the cracks and on the ridges courtesy of one of the wettest summer seasons in many years.
Caldwell and Honnold wore rockshoes to climb Pilar Goretta and the north face of Aguja Poincenot but climbed everything else wearing approach shoes (!!).
This was Honnold's first climb in Patagonia… Over the years Caldwell has done a number of impressive ascents in the area, most notably the first free and onsight ascent of Linea de Eleganza on Cerro Fitz Roy.
Respect, respect and more respect.
The gothic beauty of the Fitz Roy skyline.
Credit: rolo
Tommy and Alex on the first peak of many, on Aguja Guillaumet.
Wow! Simply Amazing! They must have some really killer approach shoes :-)
Not to criticize their achievement, but in looking at Rolo's photo it looks like there is a pinnacle/summit just right of Fitzroy that didn't appear to have been climbed. Is that just something misleading in the photo?
Again, before people start jumping on me for downplaying this incredible accomplishment I am just asking for a clarification given what's on Rolo's photo.
I away thought the full traverse of the Torres del Paine mastiff in patagonia or the Arwa group in india was the "mother of all traverses"... Guess it a subjective opinion...
Not to criticize their achievement, but in looking at Rolo's photo it looks like there is a pinnacle/summit just right of Fitzroy that didn't appear to have been climbed. Is that just something misleading in the photo?
Again, before people start jumping on me for downplaying this incredible accomplishment I am just asking for a clarification given what's on Rolo's photo.
if you take the time to look at the photo I posted you will see a note written right on the photo itself explaining that the summit that is "bypassed" by the route line is actually not on the same ridge line, it is much further west. It is called Aguja de la Silla which along with Aguja Desmochada is not part of the Fitz Roy ridge line/skyline, has never been, never will be. They are both in a separate rib, that dead ends.
The climbing has been quite interesting in the upper parts of Gorretta. They had two pairs of aluminium crampons, one ice screw, one ice axe and sneakers.
Just about the right equipment for some mixed climbing... =)
Classic alpinism at it finest! Minimal equipment, maximal effort and results with one ice tool and one sleeping bag, all in a push. Congo Rats good sirs. We will be remembering this one.
Always wondered what would happen if these new amazing rock stars got into alpinism. Thought we might see stuff like this. People have been talking about what these kind of folks might do for years.
Very impressive. Like Rolo said, it is all the more impressive because conditions on this window certainly weren't perfect, especially compared to what we saw last year or the year before. We came up the North Pillar the day after Tommy and Alex, and this is what the headwall pitches on Fitz looked like for us. It could have only been wetter and icier for them. Respect.
Kevin Prince climbing the first pitch of the headwall above the Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy
WHO PAYS FOR THESE CLOWNS TO GALAVANT AROUND? I THINK THE MONEY WOULD BE BETTER SPENT FEEDING THE HOMELESS AND OR SENIORS TO BUY PROPAIN TO HEAT THEIR HOUSES. I HIGHLY DOUBT THESE GUYS HOLD DOWN JOBS AND SAVE TO AFFORD THESE ADVENTURES.
Thanks Rolo for getting the word out about this amazing accomplishment. Lest ANYONE forget, what Alex and Tommy did here would not have happened without your pioneering efforts, starting when you were a teen-ager, in the Fitz Roy area. As is always the case, one generation lights the way for the next. And, impressively, your fire is still burning so very bright. As mentioned, thanks, Rolo.
Yeti and Jeannie
Still impressive though... I could see them taking free climbing to himalaya, Bhagirathi 3, Arwa tower and so on... La sportiva might have to make them some insulated rock shoes though..
Dawn Wall. Sendero Luminoso free solo. Now the Fitzroy traverse. Human powered flight must be up next. I'm buying Brendan Leonard a beer and planning a word tour of the greatest 5.7's ever known... Honnold doing this on his first trip is like learning Messner soloed Everest without supplemental oxygen.
Amazing! Was it Royal Robbins who wrote about Yosemite climbers going off to the rest of the world to apply what they learned in the Valley? Or are they applying in Yosemite stuff they learned in Patagonia?
“The future of Yosemite climbing lies not in Yosemite, but in using the new techniques in the great granite ranges of the world.” — Yvon Chouinard, 1963 ...
hey there say, rolo... very impressive rocks... :O
thanks for the map, it helps me understand better...
also, as to this:
It should be noted that their success was in spite of very bad conditions, with much ice and snow in the cracks and on the ridges courtesy of one of the wettest summer seasons in many years.
Caldwell and Honnold wore rockshoes to climb Pilar Goretta and the north face of Aguja Poincenot but climbed everything else wearing approach shoes (!!).
This was Honnold's first climb in Patagonia… Over the years Caldwell has done a number of impressive ascents in the area, most notably the first free and onsight ascent of Linea de Eleganza on Cerro Fitz Roy.e
thank you for the special note as to the climbers of special rock...
and how it was done-- "wettest season" and all, :O
Point taken... Though technically one is nominated for a the award the year following the ascent, usually in february...
Impressive none the less... Hailing them as the next generation of "super-alpinist"? Maybe... I have my doubts... Mad free climbing ability does not make you an "super alpinist"... A strong pallet of diverse skills is needed to partake in that activity...
Then again I don't know them personally... They might have substantial mixed, ice and aid climbing skills I don't know about... In that case they might very well be the next generation of super alpinist...
What a fantastic alpine adventure! Thanks for sharing.
Climbing skills are the foundation, but these two clearly have the rope handling skills and wherewithal to move fast on alpine rock (even covered in rime ice).
Mad free climbing ability does not make you an "super alpinist"... A strong pallet of diverse skills is needed to partake in that activity...
Actually if history is any indication it sure can if you're talking alpinism at the technical level. Look at it this way BB, can a mediocre free climber fire off Trango tower, G4, Cerro Torre or any other hard ( technical) to tick summit, even if he's been a mountain guide for twenty years?
No. But as we can see a smoking good valley free climber can. He may be sticking his neck out a bit more with lack of big mountain eperience but if it was a one off race and I was to put money on someone, it would be the skilled climber.
The tricky part is making it a long term thing, but usually eperience builds and before you know it, they're solid.
Look at it this way BB, can a mediocre free climber fire off Trango tower, G4, Cerro Torre or any other hard ( technical) to tick summit,
Yes "technically" one can. Conrad Anker has been quoted as saying he can only climb 5.12 something while "in shape" and yet has climbed big lines all over the world...
I'm not hating on the accomplishment, its a beautiful line, done in good style, I hope they continue alpine climbing. But groundbreaking? I am skeptical... Free climbers have been going big in the alpine for years. Peter Croft and Mauro Bole being notable examples...
Looks like more good weather on the way for Sunday through Wednesday. Suerte to everyone down there and thanks for letting us live vicariously through your adventures.
Pretty amazing accomplishment- congratulations! It's been tried for years by some of the best in the business.
A couple of interesting things about the gear list. Not many parties carry a tent, most use a double bivy sack. And Rolo doesn't mention any food- maybe it's just too heavy.
Hats off to these guys- I'm still trying to bag these summits a la carte!
Staggergingly impressive. Inspiring.
The bit about the 38m rope remaining was a tease, more about that please ;-)
Triple props for doing it in poor conditions. Can't wait to hear more about this.
Alex: In some countries, we would probably have been stoned to death. But, thankfully, we were far above any kind of law enforcement. Next time we might do two light sleeping bags instead, just for comfort. Dialling in the bivy scene is definitely one of the cruxes.
Like someone else said the future is here. Having climbed around a bit down there I just can't even grasp moving that fast. It's a very beautiful thing they've done.
»PATAGONIA VERTICAL«
Rolando Garibotti in Dorte Pietron
Even if you are not a mountaineer, means to take in hand and skim this Patagonia guidebook peculiar pleasure! More than 360 great photos from the very end of South America, peaks, walls and awes
Credit: Silviy Moroyna
»PATAGONIA VERTICAL«
Rolando Garibotti in Dorte Pietron
Even if you are not a mountaineer, means to take in hand and skim this Patagonia guidebook peculiar pleasure! More than 360 great photos from the very end of South America, peaks, walls and awesome views, dominated by Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, provide exceptional visual appearance and functional excellence guide. The edition, which will, if not already, become a "mountaineering bible" of all admirers of mountain range Chalten. International attention to the conductor probably increased the prize at mountain film festival in Banff! Another outstanding work of our dear Sidarta publishers. :-)
Impressive none the less... Hailing them as the next generation of "super-alpinist"? Maybe... I have my doubts... Mad free climbing ability does not make you an "super alpinist"... A strong pallet of diverse skills is needed to partake in that activity...
I've always thought that free rock climbing skills translate strongly to every aspect of the climbing game, including slog mountaineering as well as aid climbing. I think of it as the basis of understanding movement in the mountains.
Look around at the young bucks setting today's alpine standards. In addition to what Tommy and Honnold have done, Hayden Kennedy has accomplished things in the alpine that his partners have sometimes said they could not have pulled off without his outstanding free climbing skills. Josh Wharton is a phenomenal free climber. The best European super-alpinists tend to be excellent free climbers. . think Ueli Steck. Steve House has been around for a while and what he and Vince Anderson have done has to a certain extent re-defined the super-alpine game. Both of those guys are excellent free rock climbers.
Just to belabor the point, Rolo is an amazing free climber, and he and House fired off the Infinite Spur far faster than anyone thus far.
By any definition this is an incredible, yes, unbelievable feat of Planning, Fitness, and Determination, with a whole lotta Luck into the bargain.
They did make a pact with Old Patch, ya know.
Really, when I first saw Dorworthy's presentation of the Funhog Expedition in the Visitor's Center in 1970 at that AAC meeting everyone seems to have forgotten but me, we were stunned by the place, the weather, the result, and we n00bs wondered what the hell we were getting into.
My heart soars like the hawk, Tommy and Alex. Let's eat. You must be hungry.
Woo-hoo! for Yosemite hardmen, pursuing either alpinism or rock climbing--just bring it on.
two backpacks (35 and 25 liters)
Let us know!