4x4 Van (OT ish)

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kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 12, 2014 - 08:41pm PT
Just bought one - will post build pictures as I get to work on it....

Her name is Beluga aka the white whale!
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
97 Ford E150, Salem Kroger 4x4, 64k miles 4.6 v8.

Much work to be done - currently removing interior and about to start sorting out electrical for interior.

Bought it a week and a half ago and it's had it maiden yosemite voyage already.

EDIT

And stoked to be out of the Tacoma and in Beluga :)
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 12, 2014 - 11:37pm PT
Nice, don't have a link, but Mister E's work on his rig was damned inspiring. I mean, mobile art kind of inspiring. It's enough to make me not want to take on a project like that myself, no way I could ever measure up. Keep us in the loop with some photos.

Good luck!
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Feb 13, 2014 - 12:07am PT
64k miles
'baby' beluga -- nice score on your part. Our only car is a '90 civic I bought for $600 about 5 years ago. It is approaching 200 k with no signs of letting up.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Feb 13, 2014 - 12:14am PT
Here's my 4x4 gas guzzler. 1997 Chevy Express van, Jayco conversion. Bought it 10 years ago with 37,000 miles, now it's got about 75,000 miles. It weights 8,500 pounds and gets a whopping 11 MPG. If you don't have a crank-out awning, you gotta get one installed.


guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 13, 2014 - 12:18am PT
and gets a whopping 11 MPG.

But worth every MPG I bet...
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Feb 13, 2014 - 03:47am PT
Congratulations Kev. 4x4 vans are great! I see that you finally pulled the trigger after thinking about vans way back in 2011. I'm on my third Ford 4x4 van. Your 4.6L option should give the best mileage of the gas engines.

Does the Beluga have a leaf spring front suspension? From what I gather, most of Salem Kroger's conversions were leaf sprung, although they did make some with coil springs. I heard that SK went out of business. There's a very knowledgeable and helpful parts guy in Utah. You may need Gordon. office: 385-202-7176, cell: 801-915-1402 pathfinder4x4vans@gmail.com
Most of your conversion parts should be Ford and Dana/Spicer, but getting the correct parts takes some research. Does your van have a front Dana 44 or Dana 60 axle?
http://www.pathfinder-vans.com/html/salem_kroger.html

There are a few threads here on ST about vans and 4x4 vans. Some good info and several 4x4 van owners. Hit us up for info. If you plan to offroad the Beluga, I can help with info on mods for the dirt.
ClimberDave

Trad climber
The LBC, CA
Feb 13, 2014 - 09:21am PT
Very cool, I have been looking to get a van and seriously considering a 4x4 but have been a bit concerned about the MPG on the longer trips.
Any idea what you are getting yet?

I came across an E350 with a Quigley 4WD conversion. It has the 5.4L engine and the guy claims it gets 14-18 MPG but have a hard time believing that.

Any feedback on the conversions, are they any good?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Feb 13, 2014 - 11:24am PT
Kev stole this thing.

The rig is in excellent condition.

The envy of our crew.

frank wyman

Mountain climber
montana
Feb 13, 2014 - 11:32am PT
Correct me if I'm wrong, The 4x4 vans we had in oil exploration awhile back always had problems because there was no flex in the body, you know like the area between the cab and the bed of a truck. maybe it was just us oil guys beating the hell out of them...
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2014 - 01:23pm PT
Yup an awning is on the list but there's much to do first.

As far as mileage goes I'm getting 16ish if I stay out of the pedal.
I've been happily surprised with the 4.6's power as well.

Juan,

Yesterday I actually spoke with Craig who used to be with SK before they went out of business. He's going to give me all the info he can. He has since started whitefeather conversions - converting sprinters to 4x4 (for 20k a pop - wow). I've also spoken with Gordon at Pathfinder vans - super nice and helpful as well. It's got a Dana 44 front end. I will definitely ping you as for info though - thanks!

Frank - I suspect the oil guys might have beat the crap out of them - In all my research I haven't heard of the frame issue you speak of.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Feb 13, 2014 - 11:56pm PT
Frank,
I'm curious about the problems due to lack of flex in the body. Recently found a small crack in the sheetmetal on the side of my van which I suspect is due to the lack of flex in the extended body E350 "Super Van."
Were they developing cracks in the body, glass popping out, or what?

Climber Dave,
Are you asking specifically about Quigley 4x4 conversions?
They seem to do a quality job and use all new parts. They used coil springs on the front axle. Some advantages to that and some disadvantages. I prefer leaf sprung, but then I like to tinker with the spring rate and height. Quigley has been around a long time, and in recent decades has probably converted far more vans than all of the other companies combined.

There were problems with the older style control arms which were solved when they fabricated stronger arms. Many owners complain of steering/handling problems. Those problems seem to be related to worn ball joints (trunnions on the Dana 60 axle) and other end joints (tie rod, drag link, pitman arm). Can't blame that on Quigley. It's a maintenance issue. Expect that big tires and offroading wears the joints. I'm guessing that 75K to 100K miles is a reasonable service life for the joints before replacement. The van's higher center of gravity, and certainly roof racks, magnify any slop in the steering. Sometimes that results in the dreaded "death wobble." That freaks some owners out enough to sell their van or truck; it should be simply a stern warning that maintenance is due.

I'm also having a hard time believing 14-18 mpg with a 5.4L. Maybe with factory size "pizza cutter" street tires, tall gears (ring & pinion), no roof rack, and following a little old lady (downhill of course). If it ain't no city van, and you add 33" tires, have a 3.73 or lower axle ratio (higher numerically), suspension lift, roof rack, and a thousand pounds of steel bumpers, tools and gear, then I'd say a more realistic number to hope for is 12 mpg.

kev,
The lighter Dana 44 is okay if it isn't abused. High speed over bumps through the desert could trash it, particularly without a truss added. I've got a D44 in my E350. I like to think that the 4" to 5" of downward travel in the springs protects it somewhat, as does trying to avoid hitting the bumps hard enough to bottom out the suspension. Many 4x4 vans have little more than an inch of downward travel before hitting the bump stops.
You might check the rear suspension. Probably factory leaf springs with 4" to 6" lift blocks and longer U-bolts. (IMHO, you want steel blocks, not aluminum.) The rear springs will droop a surprising distance. Lift the rear bumper or frame until the rear tires start to lift from the ground. Chances are that the shocks will reach their limit of travel before the springs do. That will destroy the shocks offroad as they get hammered by the weight of the axle as the frame/body bounces upward. Installing limit straps will solve that.

Let's hear what mods you are planning! I'm sure we all have suggestions for how to spend your money :)
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
Feb 14, 2014 - 12:30am PT
Good things to say about Quigley and their vans.
I have a 2002 e350 with the 7.3 diesel.
Just found some hairline cracks on my lower control arms. Called them up and found the exact replacement parts. Plus they're the newer stronger arms. Very helpful people there.
Love my van
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Feb 14, 2014 - 12:42am PT
Our '03 E-250 2WD
5.4 liter gasoline
17 mpg hwy
A constant and fun project.

I recently installed Air Bag suspension. I only wish I'd done it sooner. Super nice highway glide and height adjustable for off-road.
I'm installing the Eaton Positraction soon to give us a true 2x4 rear differential.

This a fine website for nice interior ideas:

http://sportsmobile.com/z-PO_calif.html




Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Feb 14, 2014 - 05:02am PT
I'm installing the Eaton Positraction soon to give us a true 2x4 rear differential.

pud,
You might want to hold up on that purchase and installation. Give it some more research first. Posi-traction, aka: LSD (limited slip differential) will NOT give true 4x2 drive (two-wheel drive) to your rear axle. The "posi" will bias the torque, to a degree, toward the tire with the most traction.

If you want full traction to both sides of the rear axle (true 2WD), there are a few ways:
1. Locking differential, full-time. example: Eaton Corporation "Detroit Locker" The original, tried and true. Holds up to high horsepower and racing. The negatives: chirps tires a little on corners, occasional annoying loud clunks under 10 mph such as parking lots, torque steer when getting on or off the gas. Feels like it wants to change lanes, but you get used to it eventually and coordinate the right foot to the hands on the steering wheel. The newer Detroit "Soft Locker" has partially resolved some of the undesirable characteristics. A good choice if the vehicle sees a high percentage of off-highway use.

2. Locking differential, selectable/part-time. examples: Eaton "E-Locker" electromagnetic actuated with the push of a button. ARB "Air Locker" pneumatic actuated with onboard air compressor. Best of having an open diff on the highway and a true locker on the dirt,mud,snow.

3. "Lunch box" locker, example: Power-Trax "Lock-Right", Detroit "E-Z Locker"; Don't do it! They are not strong enough for a rear axle. When it grenades, it will cost $1,000+ to rebuild your axle. Note that I said "when", not "if." The $400-$500 you save initially will end up costing you money.

4. Spool. Full time solid axle. Racing purposes only.

5. "Lincoln locker", full-time due to welding the spider gears (with a Lincoln arc welder, hence the nickname). Works like a spool and won't let the outside wheel ratchet faster around corners. Results in annoying tire chirping. Fine if you are on dirt 95% of the time.

Your van likely has a Ford 9.75" rear axle. Probably a 3.73 gear ratio. Check on that. Not sure about applications; there weren't many options for that axle a few years ago. My recommendation is an Eaton "ELocker" if it is available. Very tough and reliable. All of the advantages of the open diff on the highway and cornering. Push a button (typically on/under the dash) and you have a locking diff. I have an ELocker in my Jeep Wrangler mated with a Ford 8.8" axle. It reliably spins paddle tires behind 260+ HP in the dunes. It's near the upper end of pricing, and well worth the extra money.

Second best on my list is the ARB "Air Locker." It requires an onboard air compressor. The compressor adds a couple hundred dollars and installation time, making it the most expensive locker. The compressor can be used to fill tires, and an air coupling can be added fore and aft on your rig. The downside is that the nylon air tube can be damaged or leak. My E350 4x4 has an ARB in the rear. A heavy duty air line kit goes in this weekend to replace the leaking nylon line. Wore out an ARB compressor. Replacement cost is $200 if I recall, but it was easy to rebuild with a $70 kit.

There are some newer lockers on the market, incl. Yukon and Ox. The Ox has a cable actuator. Can't vouch for any of them. Beware of marketing hype. Maybe research on the forums from people who love to abuse their off road toys.

If you still insist on getting positraction (LSD) installed in your van, at least check out the Eaton Detroit "Trutrac." It's the real deal and withstands off road abuse. It is gear driven. Meaning no clutch packs which wear out, become ineffective, and need rebuilding. The Eaton "Posi" has a clutch pack and is made for street.

http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Automotive/AutomotiveAftermarket/Differentials/index.htm

Hope this helps. Btw, I like your van setup. Very functional!
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Feb 14, 2014 - 09:56am PT
I found this guy's website very helpful.

http://www.badgertrek.com/sportsmobile/vehicle.shtml

I'm up in the air on buying a ford or a sprinter. I like the gas mileage of the Sprinter but like the idea of a 4x4 capabilities.

Other than having the penthouse installed, I think I could do all the other interior installs.

Yes, a gas guzzler, but not an everyday car either. I don't think a Prius has the same capability of carry my kids, toys, on some long hauls with the ease of setting up at night.

Cool post. Would love to see more pictures
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 14, 2014 - 11:57am PT
I like to think of myself as "finished and perfect" yet, a work in progress!
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Feb 14, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
If you're going to make a serious investment in your van , and make it as capable as possible off road , you should get a locking diff .

I have ARB air selectable lockers , and they are excellent . Flip a switch you have a fully locked rear , flip again and it's like a factory open diff .

The only drawbacks I see with ARB are cost , and cost of installation , you most likely want it professionally installed , unless you are really confident of your mechanical skills .

A Dana 44 in the rear is perfectly capable of handling your needs . Bigger tires and increased horsepower blow up 44's , you should be fine with your setup .

And I hear you Dingus about the rising cost of a Dana 60 , they are like hen's teeth at junk yards , and even a blown out Dana 60 rotting away in the back of some junkyard is like a $1,000 , and that's before the cost of rebuilding it , which is a few thousand more ...
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
DMT,

I'm going to use it in all stages of the build - I sold my tacoma so I've got
no choice.....

Juan et al,

It's leafs up front. The rear has an add a leaf, blocks and airbags.
Looks like 4-5 inches total.

I just picked up a large yakima basket to put on the roof. Stage 1 goes as follows.

Brakes/tuneup/general maintenance



Interior Electrical
Dual battery
Solar
Wiring for lights, arb fridge, etc
Make DC voltage reg for laptop (I have to take DC to AC back to DC)

Interior Plumbing
10-20 gallon water tank and pump for little sink.

Interior Insulation
Sound and Thermal

Interior Cabinetry
Bed
A little storage
Small galley
TBD

Interior Finish
Carpet
Upholstery

Vehicle
Replace Ranchos
Possible suspension upgrades - want to talk to Chris at Ujoint offroad
Hi amp alternator
Winch
Front bumper R&R
Awning

Damn I've got my work cut out for me!

Any advice suggestions, ideas, warning would be appreciated!

And yes I know - I'm gonna die.




Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Feb 14, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
And Juan I gotta disagree with you on lunchbox lockers definitely failing at some point . Yes maybe if you have a full time rock crawler with huge heavy tires or some built buggy with 600 horsepower ...

But a lunchbox is an entry level way to get the benefits of a locker without huge costs or set up time and skills involved .

Of course both of our opinions are probably dictated by our experiences , I have enjoyed a lunchbox in the past with no ill effects , I take it you've blown 'em up Juan ?
fluffy

Trad climber
Colorado
Feb 14, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
Kev...

Pics or it didn't happen!

I'm following this thread closely as I am in the market for such a rig.

Have a 97 4runner and 65 F250 4x4 to leverage, need a screamin deal though.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 02:49pm PT
Pics will come in a little over a week - I'm heading out to shoot (pictures) or tiger sharks next week and don't think I'll have time to get the postings up.

If you're in Colorado it'll be much easier for you to find one. Also check out thunders garage and look at the used postings.
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Feb 14, 2014 - 02:56pm PT
Dapper Dan,
You guessed right, I've destroyed a "lunchbox" or drop-in locker. It was a Lock-Right in a front axle with 185 HP and 33's. Happened in a most inconvenient place - the biggest set of dunes in the bottom of a bowl on the wrong side of the border. Not running paddles at the time, I was lucky to get out of there in 2WD.

Agreed that a lunchbox is an "entry level", low cost way to get a locker.

Pud's van needs a locker in the rear axle. It will be working full-time on a very heavy vehicle with oversize tires, behind a 255 HP, 5.4L, V8. That calls for a heavy duty unit.

I've heard some good things about the newer Aussie Locker and Spartan drop-in lockers. It's hard to sort out the marketing hype from the truth. The basic design still relies on a cross pin that doesn't seem to last forever.
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Feb 14, 2014 - 03:48pm PT
Thanks for all the good beta Juan!

Eaton does in fact make the elocker for my van.
It is heavy duty and should not have a problem on this van.
It's the way I'll go.

You were right on about gearing and axle on my Dana.
I hope to get it installed in the next couple of weeks.

Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Feb 14, 2014 - 05:11pm PT
pud,
Great choice on the E-Locker! A huge upgrade for traction. Better than anything else you can do (other than a 4WD conversion).

It seems that your 3.73 gears have a good balance of power vs. economy with those tires (diameter). The evidence of economy is in the great gas mileage for a huge van.

crøtch

climber
Whale's Vagina
Feb 14, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
Hey Kev,

With regard to water system, the route I chose was those blue 7 gallon Aquatainers plumbed to my sink through a foot pump. I can load 7 gallons for a solo weekend or 28 for a week in the desert with my wife. Lot's of flexibility and much easier to clean than a permanently installed 20 gallon tank. I plumbed a copper pipe through the hole in a Aquatainer lid. Move the lid over to a fresh Aquatainer when the first goes empty... takes two seconds. The foot pump doesn't require a battery connection, and water is used more sparingly than with an electric pump. This is the pump I use... it does take a few inches of floor space.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234226|2234237&id=161288
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 05:25pm PT
That's an interesting idea Crotch. The Aquatainers are cheap too (I've got a few).

crøtch

climber
Whale's Vagina
Feb 14, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
I'll try to take a picture of my setup this weekend. It would take you 1 trip to home despot and 30 minutes to install.
ruppell

climber
Feb 14, 2014 - 08:37pm PT
Kev why this?

Make DC voltage reg for laptop (I have to take DC to AC back to DC)

Not sure you need to. In my van I have my marine battery hooked up to a celenoid. It's one way just like a diode but way less prone to failure. Then I just hardwired an inverter to the third post of my marine battery cable. I also run my stereo(2 amps six speakers and a sub) off the same post. I just plug my laptop into the inverter and I'm good for a long time. I can listen to tunes and play on the laptop for well over 8 hours before I kill the marine. Makes rainy days a lot more enjoyable for sure.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2014 - 02:57pm PT
Rupell,

I think my earlier post probably wasn't the clearest...

So when you use an inverter to go from DC to AC it's no where near 100%
efficient. Probably somewhere in the neighborhood of 70% at best. Then the laptop uses an AC to DC converter to take the AC (being put out by your inverter) and switch it back to DC of a specific flavor (x Volts at y Amps). Again not anywhere near 100% efficient, say 70% again. Well 70% of 70% has us wasting 50% of what were drawing off the battery. So I want to skip these steps and just make a voltage reg circuit to take the DC off the battery and bump it to what I need for my laptop. This will be way more efficient and since the laptop is the DVD player it's important ;)

kev
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Feb 15, 2014 - 07:41pm PT
Khanom,

I would like to see your ideas or hear more about them for "Winterizing" or insulating your van.

Also do have the plans for your wiring?

I still want to convert to AC in my future van and want to have solar capability.

Many thanks.

Post photos peeps!
ruppell

climber
Feb 15, 2014 - 08:17pm PT
Kev

Makes sense to want to optimize it but it's really not that critical. A Type 27 marine battery has about 100 amp hours if fully charged. That's enough to run most laptops, assuming a very high 15A draw, for about seven hours. I get well over 12 out of mine on a regular basis. If you wire it to solar as well as wire it to your alternator via a diode/cellonoid you will be fine for the use you want it for. Just some food for thought.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Feb 15, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
Try to keep your center of gravity on that 150 as low as you can; you will like yourself a lot more later on.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Feb 15, 2014 - 10:42pm PT
Nice to hear you pulled the trigger, Kev. Can't wait to see it.

As for the whole DC-AC-DC thing, seems like a clusterf*#k, I'd just rig an auxillary battery for DC use that can be re-charged off yer alternator. Maybe at the flip of a switch?
thudge

climber
CO
Feb 15, 2014 - 11:39pm PT
Thanks for the thread, Im ready to do it again!
All of the technical things, like electrical and propane are SCARY to me.
Any photos and tips and links will be appreciated.
ClimberDave

Trad climber
The LBC, CA
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
Juan,
Yes thanks I was refering to the quality of the Quigley 4WD converstion, and I think you are probably right with the MPG being closer to 12 than 18 mpg.

Khanom,

Pretty sweet looking conversion you have.
Regarding the insulation and the loss of heat through the windows, my buddy cut out Reflectix to fit the windows and used little tabs of velcro to hold them in place, he says it works pretty well keeping heat out, he doesnt know about keeping it in yet. Also he uses a Mr Heater, propane heater when it gets really cold. Just enough to warm it up in the morning, he doesnt sleep with it running.

I lack the wood working skillz, tools nd room to do much myself unfortunately. I don't plan on doing much but would like a seat (with seatbelts) for 2 or 3 passengers, that folds flat into a bed and a few cabinets for storage, eventually some electrical stuff (batteries, and solar panels, for lights and a microwave, possible fridge. And maybe have a pop top installed by Colorado Camper Vans.

Would love to see some pics and hear of others ideas and plans!!!
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Feb 18, 2014 - 08:03pm PT
I got two rows of seats (w/belts) from two ford astrovans at the neighborhood pick-a-part and modded them to bolt in. They fold flat and sleep two adults nicely.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
Nice pictures Khanom!

I'm back home now and it's raining this weekend so I'm starting to work on Beluga this weekend so I'll post up some pics this weekend.

kev
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Mar 1, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
I found the limits of my 2WD today.



John M

climber
Mar 1, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
that would probably exceed the limits of most stock 4wheel drives.
Bad Climber

climber
Mar 1, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
Awesome, khanom! You are a real craftsman. Is that a 12v compressor fridge? We've got one in our camper, and they's the bomb. Truly nice work there, sir.

BAd
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Mar 1, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
and you may ask yourself "Well - How did I get here?"
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Mar 22, 2014 - 09:45pm PT
I just finished installing the ARB http://www.arbusa.com/Air locker in my Dana rear differential and took it to some hills a mile from my house for testing..
If I didn't know better, I'd swear this van was 4WD from what I was able to climb with the differential locked. It was insane how steep this van will now climb. No mud around right now but I bet it would not have gotten stuck a few weeks ago had I had this kit installed.

I still managed to get stuck today when I tried to climb an extremely steep hill and bottomed out on my spare tire mounted under the rear bumper. this had my van pointing skyward with with the rear wheels spinning (wish I'd taken a pic).
Luckily, my wife was home and pulled me out (down) with her Landcruiser (laughing the whole time) and a 30' piece of 11mm climbing rope.

Juan Maderita

Trad climber
"OBcean" San Diego, CA
Mar 24, 2014 - 05:25am PT
pud,
Glad to read that you got a quality selectable locking diff!
Did you add an air coupler? Adding a female air coupler at the front and rear of the van is quite handy. You can then quickly attach an air hose for filling your tires with the ARB air pump. Airing down the tires will improve traction and flotation, particularly in sand.

It's no surprise that you are immediately impressed with the results.
Your locking diff provides 100% of available traction at the rear axle. With an open (conventional) differential, torque is sent to the wheel with the least traction. That's not so bad on dry pavement, where the available traction is distributed 50/50 to the right and left tires. But, suppose you are parked along side a curb with the passenger side tires on ice, and on a slight incline. Step on the gas and the right tire will spin. The vehicle goes nowhere. The driver's side tire, on dry pavement, may have the potential for 95% of the traction, yet is useless!

When offroading, there are often hills with staggered holes, where numerous vehicles with open diffs have spun their tires. You can see 4x4's having difficulty or failing, spinning a front tire and the opposite rear tire. I've done many hills like that with a rear locker alone, never engaging 4WD.

Deep mud, like that in your photos, will defeat a locking diff. Having 4WD would only get you a few feet further before getting stuck even worse! Once the axles drag, momentum is likely to stop.

Lucky to get unstuck with an 11mm rope. If you are going to play to the point of getting stuck: Invest in a real snatch strap, minimum 30' and 30,000 lbs. Like the one that extracted your van in the photos. Also get two, 3/4" shackles. And a Hi-Lift jack.
This thread has some great tips:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/619707/Whats-in-yur-4x-kit-What-fav-4x-trick-for-saving-yur-ass
altieboo

Social climber
Das Blase
Mar 24, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
Awesome Kev! Cant wait to see photos! There is a TON of great info in this thread. Might have to start looking into some new options for Big Bertha!


Don't have many current interior photos. We're headed to Bishop in 2 weeks for a week. Plenty of van photo opps on that trip.

Hope to see you again soon, Kev!

kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
Put the water system in thursday and headed up to shuteye for mucci's bday last weekend. Note to self - take pictures!

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 22, 2014 - 07:23am PT
does AWD count:)
franky

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 22, 2014 - 10:03am PT
Word of warning, with Ford vans/trucks from 97 to 02 (4.6l or 5.4l), make sure to change the spark plugs no more than every 75k miles. They have a tendency to blow out, probably due to loosening with time. Some folks torque them a bit over spec to prevent the problem, I'd say not to and just service frequently. If you ever do blow a plug, repairing it is far better than a new head, and doing the repair yourself isn't so bad once you buy a good kit.

Heed my advice ford owners!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Apr 22, 2014 - 07:08pm PT
This is really one of those solid gold ST threads, great information.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 22, 2014 - 07:11pm PT
Franky speaks verily!
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