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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 30, 2014 - 04:06am PT
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Many congratulations to the two great climbers from Italy!!!
Chapeau!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Greetings to all mountaineers.
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/70-year-old-legends-tick-bird-brain-boulevard-iv-wi-5
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ask I'm sorry, but I have explained badly (I do not speak American, I'd really like) I said greetings from italy!! Greetings to all!
Gigi.
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ RANDISI :
THANK YOU so much RANDISI is exactly what I meant!!!
Greetings to All!
@@@@ Bruce - Kay :
@ @ @ @ @ Dear friend, I have had the honor of seeing the CESARE MASTERS, who has done great CLIMBING
EX.
Via GUIDE Crozzon of the Brenta 800m 5-6 Degree of difficulty (ascent and descent FREE_ SOLO) And I've always had a great admiration for this climber!! BUT, but after the surety and truth claims of Garibotti and SALVATERRA on CERRO TORRE (VIA tHE EGGER-MAESTRI ) of 1959 is not recognized by 98% - 99% of the climbers from all over the world: This is a lie, and I'm so sorry having great admiration for the great CESARE MAESTRI! !
But many lies in the mountaineering world, there are climbers who do not tell the truth!!
Greetings to All!
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ Bruce-Kay
I apologize, but not speaking American (only automatic translator have not been understood.
I said that I have always had a great admiration for Cesare Maestri (I met and climb seen in person, great climber,) But to CERRO TORRE, 1959, he told a lie, now it is demonstrated, and the whole world mountaineering (99 %) and the greatest mountaineers of the world (GARIBOTTI, SALVATERRA, HUBER, AUER and many others DO NOT accept this ascent of the MAESTRI , in fact PITONS ,Pitons Expansions,Slings,Rope, wedges, and lanyards are only up to the hanging snowfield (300meters) from the base of Cerro Torre after no trace of anything, nothing at all! NADA DE NADA!!!
The climb to Cerro Torre EGGER-MAESTRI is not accepted by most of the world mountaineering (99%)((( 'I myself do not believe it is absolutely)))
However, the Masters was a great climber, and this no doubt about it!!
Greetings and I apologize for the translation.
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ PHYLP :
((((( Nice to see you posting gigi/Watermann.)))))
Thank you so much for your kindness!!
Many greetings.
Gigi.
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Cerro Torre Route Egger - Maestri THE PROBLEME and The QUESTION
This time, however , the doubts come soon . Americans Jim Bridwell and Steve Brewer repeat the path of 1970 , they discover that the nails stop before the top of the ice , cast doubt on the second ascent . When they arrive at the summit in 1974, the Lecco , Mountain Cerro Torre Climbed headline , " Cerro Torre was gone ." For the first time , of course .
Then the evidence accumulate. In 1976 John BRAGG , Jim DONINI and Jay WILSON retrace the first part of the way of the Masters and Egger traces of transition interrupt one thousand feet from the base, beyond that point the description of 1959 is all a mistake. The higher Masters wrote of an ice slope with a gradient "of about 45-50 degrees."
About subsequently passes from there refers to a vertical wall of high difficulty . The British Phil Proctor and Tom Burke (1981) writes of " extreme passages of rock and ice between 70 degrees and steep ." When Italians Elio Orlandi and Maurizio Giarolli (1998) and the Austrians Toni Ponholzer and Franz Steiger (1999) rises to the left of the edge are not nails or other traces of the passage . In 2002 Reinhold Messner opens in Solda his Museum of Curiosities Alpine, dedicated to " the difference between what mountaineers do and what they say ." One of the lies in the window is just the ascent of Cerro Torre .
The indictment more complete, however, in the 2004 edition of the American Alpine Journal. The Argentine climber Rolando Garibotti shows with quotes and interviews that the story of the Masters does not hold, that the description of the path is wrong, that none of the boosters met with nails or ropes left by Maestri and Egger from over three hundred meters from the base . Here a ring of broken rope seems to indicate the place where the avalanche has killed Toni Egger , whose body was found in 1975 on the glacier.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 30, 2014 - 07:19am PT
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Whoa.....my grandparents were from Italy, but not Ralph's. No big deal but lot's of fun. Climb was in great shape, engaging but never desperate....a must do. Climbing with a 140 year old rope did give pause though.
Off to catch a plane for Patagonia....Ciao!
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 30, 2014 - 10:53am PT
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I hope I'm having as much fun when I get to 70! Way to go guys... your an inspiration.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 30, 2014 - 11:02am PT
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Waterman....thanks for the congrats. I am proud of my Italian heritage and love the lifestyle in Italy. Come visit the States or Patagonia....I'll give you a tour. In transit for Patagonia....looks like old fashioned weather there this year.
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Watermann2
Big Wall climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
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Very honored and thank you very much Mr. Donini, and I wish you many beautiful things!
Many greetings and best wishes.
Gigi.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 30, 2014 - 05:24pm PT
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Bruce Kay: Ralph posted some good photos of the climb on his Facebook page, if you do FB? PM me if you want a link.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jan 30, 2014 - 05:59pm PT
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The boys were back early afternoon. When they arrived at Donini's they looked like two kids that just raided a candy shoppe. Big smiles all around. Watching them go up the climb was an honor.
To achieve this climb they had to be first in line, so they were there at the base super early...@6am. Just beat out another party that was behind them. If you ask me, when they got out of the car after they'd finished the climb they looked like they'd just run to the corner market for a sixer....just another day in Ouray.
Cheers Dudes !!! Dave Yerian and Lynne L.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jan 30, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
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Nice article on a stout outing!
Nice to see you posting gigi/Watermann.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jan 30, 2014 - 08:08pm PT
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awesome, Jim. train for a few months and you just might be in shape for Minnesota's finest: http://mountainproject.com/v/105930246
I'll let you lead the crux second pitch
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