Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Jan 28, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
|
The two that come to mind for me are Winter Solstice and Moondance at Suicide. Both rated 11c, I believe.
A friend of mine lead winter solstice but can't climb most 5.10 cracks. I've also TR'd it clean fairly easily, it's a bit spooky up higher but on a VERY cold day that thing might as well be 11a. I recommend trying it when its got better temps. Really NTB, I'm hoping to lead it this April!
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Jan 28, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
|
JLP, provide some links so u don't come off all butthurt?? This to me seems to be about climbs that are hard for the grade??
Key word- climbs.
Yes, it's a climbing thread! Yay!
Edit- oops I misread your post, no need for links. You are butthurt!
|
|
henny
Social climber
The Past
|
|
|
Jan 28, 2014 - 10:40pm PT
|
People make what they want of the OP. When it comes to the us vs. them stuff, it gets rather boring and "who cares" is spot on. The only butt kicking I'm concerned with is avoiding it happening to mine when I get on something that may be technically under my limit, but that requires a little extra of something else.
It doesn't seem surprising that most of the routes mentioned have been around for awhile. It takes time for routes to become notable. No doubt there are routes (at all grades) being put up right now that at some point in the future will fall into the category of testpieces for the grade.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Jan 28, 2014 - 10:42pm PT
|
So list some of those routes henny! Pretty sure that is what this thread is about, donini wants a ticklist. We should all be chucking sandbags at him!
|
|
MisterE
climber
|
|
|
Jan 28, 2014 - 10:42pm PT
|
I am with Ryan - it's a climbing thread!
Yay!
|
|
FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
|
|
|
Jan 28, 2014 - 10:58pm PT
|
I saw Honnold pitch of the crux of the Wisdom in Eldo, and have seen other ubers fall off 5.11s in Eldo. One dude fell off the Naked Edge after redpointing 5.14 a week before. I think it's not too hard to fall off slippery/tricky/awkward 5.11 no matter who you are. Most of those folks I talk to seem to enjoy those testpiece routes.
But it is odd how some of the strongest climbers do not go ground up even on 5.11.
|
|
Cancer Boy
Trad climber
Freedonia
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 12:32am PT
|
Fred at Taquitz is runout testy IMHO - and it's only 10d. Way more head required than similar face climbs like the MC apron routes that people go on about these days. Fatty - we gotta get on some a them 12d's again sometime soon.
|
|
Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 12:49am PT
|
I vote for T Crack in Santa Barbara , that mantle move is superb.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 01:10am PT
|
It got retro bolted within 5 hours of the first accent.
I tell you what, Noob's these days have zero respect and the head game is gone for sure.
Should have cut that noob's head off. We don't tolerate this nonsense here in Yosemite...
Vitaliy, Freeblast seems to have earned a rep as hard, but I thought it was pretty mellow. You'll stroll up it.
I have been up the route. Do not think I will 'stroll up' it. Year ago couldn't free the 3rd pitch, slab, and entering the ear confuse the crap out of me. Would be nice to go back and try it again.
|
|
rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 01:28am PT
|
Valhalla
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 02:20am PT
|
Generator Crack YDS: 5.10c
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 02:22am PT
|
Let's face it, much of climbing has reached a deeply formulaic state. That is what our very own J-Do, the OP here, is talking about and baiting.
We have topos up the wazoo, more beta than one could remember from forty years of people ascending many of these lines, lightest hardware of every size and kind that operates so gracefully 10 year olds use it easily, the path of routes visible from space often. All the holds identified in chalk.
It is a good thing but it is not the only thing.
There are still "Great White Sharks" out there and they can still snag up a party's lines on some Sunday cruise. The number of ascents that actually don't go per Hoyle also is large, truth be told, as the party pulls on stuff and muffs through the line, ridiculously proud still of what they are doing.
The Mind Game as others call it: it is still alive and well here and there. It is not all monkey bars and three-note melodies now; the wild is the wild still. Many of the best ascents still freak nearly everyone out, whatever the rating. Few succeed if we really look. Christ I remember some lycra-clad gym climber with a great body unable to do the left side of Little John at all, even with a big wall fixed line happening to be there and his prussick on it for a top rope. Even with a completely rehearsable situation he was both horrified and disabled by the challenge above him. He could not make the psychological transition to actually mounting the route under full power.
This young man was so far from the original experience of the 5.8 route it made me wince. That was in the early Eighties. I have to believe it has just continued since. Though gym climbing is the child that wants to eat its mother (Royal) it will never reach what has been done in our history. It is a good thing but must be understood for what it exactly is. It is climbing on plywood with top ropes, friends, water fountains, foam flooring, out of the weather and a two minute walk to the car.
As others have said, there are deadly challenges at all grades in the natural settings and here is the stuff with which we really should be fascinated.
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 02:51am PT
|
Speaking of testpieces, how about 'Testpiece' at Consumes River Gorge?
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 03:45am PT
|
This thread needs pics.
|
|
bigbird
climber
WA
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 04:04am PT
|
Any of the Mark Twight's thin-ice mixed routes in the alps...
"Beyond good and evil" and "There Goes the Neighborhood" come to mind...
"Scary", "thin" and "run out" are generally used to describe such routes...
The clip from Millet is a good indicator of the "scary" nature of his routes...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Credit:millet
Back in north America....
Big hard alpine routes, will continue to be "hard" testpieces... Like...
Infinite spur on Mt foraker,
Anything on the Emperor face of Mt Robson
Several routes on North Face of Mt Alberta
The list goes on...
|
|
patrick compton
Trad climber
van
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 08:53am PT
|
this generation aren't pussies
high ball bouldering is obviously dangerous.
they just don't care about contrived 5.11 slab
that doesn't make everyone today a gym climbing pussy.
|
|
TwistedCrank
climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 09:07am PT
|
5.12? WTF?
I was told there would be no math on this test piece.
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 09:21am PT
|
Vitaliy, muy bueno on-sighting the Twilight Zone. That requires some chutzpah and careful PLANNING.
Very nice, dude.
It's ONLY 5.10 and I've never done it, even following the Bird and Barry!
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Jan 29, 2014 - 09:24am PT
|
Super Pin and Hairy Pin.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2014 - 09:39am PT
|
Why is everyone talking about THIS generation? Climbing is not a youthful athletic activity that is discarded once you enter the job market and start a family.....climbing is a lifelong pursuit spanning generations.
Climbing has become segmented, a natural extension of it's huge growth via indoor gyms and the prevalence of sport climbing. That's great but, as i've said before, all paths have merit and no path diminishes the others.
The athlecticisim of Sharma and Ondra is jaw dropping as is the boldness of Honnold. Equally impressive are the feats of alpinists like Steve House and Vince Anderson who spend days on horrendous alpine faces where rescue is out of the question.
In the end what makes climbing a lifetime activity for many is it's individualisim. What matters is the experience YOU are having and not the number attached to it. It matters not if you express climbing via bouldering, the gym, sport climbing, trad, ice, alpine or peak bagging.
I leave for Patagonia tomorrow....a six week respite.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!