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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2014 - 11:03am PT
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Got a brand new pair of Asolo Eigers last week. I used them yesterday on Bird Brain Blvd......climbed it with another septuagenarian, Ralph Tingey (Ak. Trad).
Best alpine/ice boot I've ever used, and I've used a few......sooooo light!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 11:12am PT
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Randisi....I've been climbing for quite awhile and was in the outdoor industry for a long time. No, I don't pay retail but I'm not paid or formally "sponsored" by companies....I'm a retired silverback for Christ's sake!
I've done threads in the past about various climbing techniques....I like to pass on information I think is helpful. A half century of experience shouldn't lie fallow.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 28, 2014 - 11:20am PT
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Jim, how warm are they? As warm as my Makalus? And how the hell does one
buy boots these days? Nobody stocks them so do you buy three pairs online
and send the others back?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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They felt warmer than my previous single boots but conditions weren't severe. The fit is really good for me and my foot was not constricted. I'm a size 12 and that's what these boots are.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 28, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
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Another Asolo fan. Lotta miles on these babies...including a great hike this past weekend in Yose which should have been skis or snowshoes.
I like the looks of the Eigers....light weight looking but strong.
These are absolutely my fav go to all purpose hikers.
Plus they are so molded to my feet.
Susan
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 28, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
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Jim, I know you beat me hands down, but I like Scarpa's better. . .
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 12:22pm PT
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I love Scarpa too.....my rock shoe is the Scarpa Techno.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jan 28, 2014 - 12:28pm PT
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Jim, do you have a narrow foot with a high arch?
Cheers!
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Jan 28, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
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Jim,
No doubt a nice boot. Barber has been tight with those. Curious if you have climbed in any of the other new boots to make a comparison?
Scarpa, Rebel Ultra, Phantom Guide or Phantom Ultra?
Or a La Sportiva Batura?
Rebel Ultra is likely the most comparable boot since neither is fully gaitered. Hard to get lighter ice boot than a Rebel Ultra.
Technology is certainly good. Barber claimed the warmth was as good as other "comparable" single boots. And was closed lipped about his "testers".
Asolo's Cholatse TH model, is another lwt boot ice boot from Asolo. But the larger volume for wide feet, IMO kept them from being a big seller.
How is the last on the Eiger? Wide like the Cholaste or narrow this time around?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 12:56pm PT
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I've been doing serious alpine climbing for over forty years and have climbed in many different alpine boots. No question that fit is the most important characteristic and different boots fit different feet.
The Eiger does fit me well. I'm really impressed with the technology....weight for warmth etc. I'm suggesting that if you're in the market the Eiger should definetly be on your "try on" list. If it fits your foot the features of the boot will likely result in a sale.
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Jan 28, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
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Wasn't questioning your bonafides. Just asking if you had used any of the other "best" modern boots to make a simple comparison.
Last/fit are unknown to most on the Eiger as few have used the boot. Thought you might be able to shed some light on that, by your previous choice in boots.
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bigbird
climber
WA
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Jan 28, 2014 - 01:25pm PT
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Barber claimed the warmth was as good as other "comparable" single boots.
As in Henry Barber? Cool, glad to know he is still around...
Alas my narrow feet mean Asolo's generally don't fit me....
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Jan 28, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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"As in Henry Barber? Cool, glad to know he is still around..."
Yes, that Barber. Not sure of his title at Asolo but he is generally a part of the sales staff in the Asolo booth @ OR.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Jan 28, 2014 - 01:45pm PT
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Donini still adheres to the "no pain, no gain" philosophy . . .
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Jan 28, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
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Reilly sez:
"And how the hell does one buy boots these days? Nobody stocks them so do you buy three pairs online and send the others back?"
Likely what most have to do these days to find a boot that fits. That and ask questions on the Internet....
Quick check on internet reviews seems to fit much like a Cholaste, or good for a wide foot.
Weight listed for the Eiger in 8.5 (could be a UK 8.5 however or 9.5 US)
1# 14oz per boot. 9.5 is typically used for sample weights.
All these are a narrow lasted, alpine/ice boots..some more narrow than ohers.
Batura 2.0 in a size 9.5 is 2# 2oz
Phantom Guide 9.5 is 2# 3oz
Rebel Ultra size 9.5 is 1# 9oz
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 02:42pm PT
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RDB....yes I have been using other very modern boots. I have no nostalgia for old gear....I'm one of the first that uses the latest equipment if I believe is is an improvement....I need all of the the help I can get. Case in point....I don't have a single non locking carabiner that weighs more than an ounce.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jan 28, 2014 - 03:28pm PT
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Hi Jim, I think what Dane was asking is if you could parse out other boot brands/models you've used, tried or liked, and how the Asolos compare to those. Thanks for starting this thread and putting your significant experience out there for us to share in.
Here's some of Danes thoughts on the Rebel Ultras in case anyone wants to peruse it to see how he games this stuff (ie, very seriously): http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/the-scarpa-rebels-part-one-ultra.html
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SFyankee
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 28, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
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So, what's an ASOLO foot shaped like (wrt their mountain boots)? Talk to me like I'm an idiot...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
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I have used a couple of current models but don't feel comfortable naming them.....suffice to say they were excellent boots but the Eiger is lighter and, for me, seems to climb better.
My foot is slightly on the narrow size but fairly broad in the toes and narrow in the heel. The Eigers gave me plenty of toe room while locking my heel in.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 28, 2014 - 04:59pm PT
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Are you saying my Lowa Denali boots are not the height of boot tech now? :-)
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Jan 28, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
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Don't know if the op was confused. I'm pretty sure those are disco shoes.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Jan 28, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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new kicks on the bloc bump
sorry, i don't want to have to live with the feeling that i may have killed a helpful thread
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SFyankee
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 29, 2014 - 12:02pm PT
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sounds like my foot shape. Oh well, I'm liking my scarpa rebel ultras. though they could be wider for the pinky toe and narrower in the heel.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 26, 2014 - 02:57pm PT
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well Jim I hope you get a comission;) I just pulled the trigger on a pair. I bought a pair of Nepal Evos at the end of last season that are just a tiny bit too tight on my right foot so they are for sale now. size 45 excelent+++ condition $275.00
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 26, 2014 - 04:01pm PT
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Jim
I thought you just started ice climbing
again last year .
So you are like a kid in a candy shop!
Personally I prefer the Zamberlam
Eiger boot. Super comfy!
Climbs like a dream.
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Brock Wagstaff
Trad climber
Larkspur
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Nov 26, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
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Had a pair of Pivetta Eigers back in the late 60's, early 70's that were both comfortable and more than adequate for moderate alpine snow and rock climbing. Sounds like "Eiger" boots are made by a few companies, or did Asolo take over Pivetta at some point?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2014 - 04:39pm PT
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Stewart...i've ice climbed for half a century, never stopped just changed focus. If I have a choice between rock and ice, i'll take rock. Not so interested in frozen waterfalls anymore but still love alpine ice. Did Birdbrain Blvd. last year because it was in killer shape and i'll continue to pick low hanging fruit.
With a size 12 foot, weight in an ice boot is critical. The Eiger is super light AND, most importantly, it fits my foot like a glove....hence the gushy review last year.
Have fun Tradman....i'm heading south.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 26, 2014 - 04:48pm PT
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Have fun yourself:) I just hope they fit. the only boots i can seem to find between IME and EMS are sportiva and they are all too narrow for my feet. I did the online thing and hope for the best...
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 26, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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Oh sorry Jim .
But the new boots have such a great
Feel .
Hard not to enjoy ice ,eh?
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Bill Thompson
Ice climber
Marquette
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Nov 26, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
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Oh Jim you should come up and give em a run on our ice before retreating south! We also stock them so if anyone wants to come up to the Michigan Ice Fest you can also demo them on ice to see what they are like!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Nov 26, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
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donini - would you mind sharing your street size and Eiger size. thanks
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Oct 18, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
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ice climbing is almost here and I need a warmer pair of boots (warmer than my trusty Sportiva Trango silvers, which are good down to about 4 or 5 above F, but not so good at 0 Fahrenheit).
thinking Asolo Eiger or Sportiva Batura. anyone try both?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2015 - 06:36pm PT
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Street size and Eiger size are the same....12.
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