MT Bute? Coast range...

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 22 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bigbird

climber
WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 26, 2014 - 11:16pm PT
Just Curious...

Has anyone repeated that epic looking line on Mt. Bute, put up in 2009 by Jimmy Martinello, Jay Sinnes and Bruce Kay? It is something like 50 pitches and 6000 feet long....

The article is worth a look...

http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/north-america/canada/british-columbia/2009-mt-bute-school-of-rock-by-b-kay/

thebravecowboy

Social climber
Colorado Plateau
Jan 26, 2014 - 11:19pm PT
wow.
gf

climber
Jan 26, 2014 - 11:26pm PT
a proud effort that demands a repeat!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jan 27, 2014 - 06:13am PT
I heard that it was only the first two guys that actually climbed it, and that Bruce just took the gondola to the top and met them there.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 27, 2014 - 06:24am PT
bull. We killed it by fair means. It was the Dean Potter and G I Joe extravaganza's that came later that built the gondola.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 27, 2014 - 08:23am PT
The coast range is littered with gems like Mt. Bute. I could spend a whole day google earthing every drainge...
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 27, 2014 - 08:41am PT
Bruce; Nice writing for one of those short reports. If you have a longer version with more details of the climbing, I for one would love to read it. Even after all these years and too much time spent on Supertopo, I still like pitch by pitch (heck even foot by foot) descriptions of climbs. OK, for 50 pitches, you might have to edit a bit.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 27, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
I took dis one from de plane Boss



Somebody oughtta ski that dog leg couloir on the right
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 27, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1768379/The-Coast-Range-B-C-Mt-Bute-Waddington-etc
(267 posts)
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jan 27, 2014 - 02:40pm PT
That is beautiful.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 27, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
Geez, with as big as Canuckistan is you would think they could have different mountains
instead of just cloning Snowpatch Spire.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 27, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
Darwin, thanks for that - My friend Jay Sinnes wrote a really nice little story about it for the Canadian /alpine Journal, same year I think. I'm not sure how you'd find it online, or not....

Another really nice tale, again in an old CAJ (90's or so) is by Mike down who had a bit of a Bromance with that peak returning a number of times and eventually climbing that really nice left hand ridge. Interestingly enough, both Mike and Jay first generated their interest in Bute by working as loggers out of the camp below on the banks of the Homathko river. Must be something about the long summer days of harvesting giant firs while gazing up at that big plug of granite that dragged them back decades later.

The real prize is the face just right of the snowpatch that Greg foweraker and don Serl snaked from old Fred and Jim Nelson by a mere day. That face now hosts a few good efforts with some claims of best stone north of the valley. Its a worthy trip, especially with that fine old logging camp down below for a celebratory dinner and apple pie afterward!
MH2

climber
Jan 27, 2014 - 05:47pm PT
It's been said before, but wow.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 27, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
Great article Bruce! Looks like u guys got to pick a real plum up there. That's amazing.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Jan 28, 2014 - 11:13am PT
By the by here's Greg Jones' pic of the northeast face and N butt (Mike Down route) under spring conditions. West face in shadow on the right

Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jan 28, 2014 - 11:32am PT
Great photo; great route!
bigbird

climber
WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 01:02pm PT
That photo is awesome....
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jan 28, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
we're on a roll here.... Devils cub mentioned the dogleg coulior as an atractive ski descent. He forgot to mention that it goes for another 38 degrees of planar descent right down to 3000 feet ASL for a total of 6500' of thigh burning hell or heaven depending on how you look at it.

West face of bute
West face of bute
Credit: Scott Flavelle
bigbird

climber
WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2014 - 01:33pm PT
Have all the logical lines been taken? I got the impression that unlike places like patagonia, the crack systems on the west face don't link up that easily and route-finding is not straightforward... Maybe Bruce can shed some light on the possibility of new routes on the mountain?
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jan 28, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
Could someone high-mark a skidoo up there?
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