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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 16, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
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My wife and I are heading to Joshua Tree for a few days. At 55, she has spent 6 months gym climbing and is just started transitioning to out of doors. This will be her 3rd time out. Period. We recently went to Red Rocks and she was consistently at 5.8 and 5.9 for face with a couple 10a's. On cracks, shall we say she is groveling on 5.6 or 7 (Mt. Woodson). I really don't know the J Tree area and need some help so we don't just spend too much time hunting for something she feels comfortable getting on.
Looking for some "nice and easy" top rope-able stuff, mostly face and not too popular so we can take our time. We are slow movers so its better we stay out of the aggro areas. We don't mind out of the way, as long as it is max of 30 min hike. If there happens to be some nice 5.10 ish cracks near by, I'll be stoked.
Any good sources for this level stuff would be helpful. Thanks
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 16, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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Bear island on the way out has some super easy stuff as well. Also think about the Cat House, good TR's there in the sun!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 16, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
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If you wish to go to a great place where you will not hold anybody up and have some good face and crack climbing options.
Belle Campground .... just to the right of a climb named Beligosi (SP?) and to the left of Belly Up.
EZ TR set up, EZ face and a nice crack in a corner to do some jamming and steming.
Outward bound uses this spot... cause they are smart.
have mucho fun
EDIT: Diagnostic is what the climb is named.... and the stuff 10 feet right.
Thanks G-D
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 16, 2014 - 04:33pm PT
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also, consider Joshua Tree 5.8 sometimes means 5.10.
Case.
In.
Point.
(Two more)
Some other places those routes might be anywhere from 5.9 to 10B.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 16, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
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You don't lead ~ she can't pull out gear?
Why tope rope ?
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 16, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
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Not being a wise, ^ Jus' say'n ~
(sorry if that seemed the case really didn't mean to if so)
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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Thanks, Elcapinyoazz. I was trying to remember joshuatreeclimb.com...I'd given up. AOBslab and the surrounding area look like they could fill the bill. Hidden Dome looks sweeeet....but that OBSlab could be perfect for my wife especially the first day.
GDavis, Guyman, Dave Kos. All your suggestions look good too. I have to admit she was a little freaked at first when we tackled some Woodson 5.8's on top rope, but she eased into it and for 55 is pretty determined. I figure she will learn to use her feet better at JT just cause the smearing is so nice. We plan to start out with the easiest stuff and work our way up in grade. It'll settle out where it settles out.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
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Trundlebum. We are not quite ready yet. There is nothing I'd like better than to take her up something like Matthes Crest. Baby steps...for the both of us 'cause I want to stay married and for her to enjoy herself. Frankly I suck at climbing and am just getting going again after 30+ years away, but I'm having fun and getting outside. I still got a lot to learn. Also after the first day or so, we will join up with a group of people and the climbing situation could change a bit then.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 16, 2014 - 06:44pm PT
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also, consider Joshua Tree 5.8 sometimes means 5.10.
No way on planet Earth those routes you cited are 5.10.
+1 for OBS and that area.
There are many nice routes out there and not that many people usually.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jan 16, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
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I would also say the OB Slab and general area may be a good fit for what you are seeking. Unfortunately, the areas and routes in the on-line TR guide (with the exception of Belle Campground) are pretty heavily used and would not be a relaxed away from the crowds experience.
If you are not going to be leading, it may be fairly involved to set up TRs on the Hidden Dome routes (though they are excellent).
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Jan 16, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
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Trash can rock
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 16, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
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No way on planet Earth those routes you cited are 5.10
Not to someone who is familiar with the area, but almost 10 years climbing at the park I've heard a few dozen people refer to those routes as "5.8 My Ass!"
If you climb in the gym and modern sport crags, those routes are indeed closer to 5.10 in effort. Just like a "v5" in Bishop takes me about 30 minutes of work to unlock yet I've never come close to the grade in josh - area is just stout : /
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jan 16, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
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The Short Wall area is good, but tends to be crowded on weekends.
Belle Campground and Diagnostics is fun. That's just one climb there, tho'.
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Jan 16, 2014 - 11:11pm PT
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In HVCG, Hands Off is such a great climb for the grade, easy to walk to top/set a TR and the base is in a very pretty alcove.
Also, the walk up on AFPA Rock is easy, though very exposed on a short slabby section, and you can set several TR's on the front, though you have to watch the rope as they just make it with a 60.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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Thanks again for the help all. After a hard month, my wife's dad has dementia and it came to a head this past week, it was nice to get away and not think about anything but where we were. Not sure if we really took anyone's advice per say...but the highlights were first pitch of Walk on the Wild side and the first pitch of Mental physics. Each day my wife commented that THAT was out of her comfort zone, but she pulled it off and we are still married.
GDavis, she specifically commented that the flailing laps on Elsa's Crack (Woodson) helped alot...no flail on Mental physics. Lot of slipping at the top of the first pitch of Walk on the Wild Side though. We gotta work on the foot work. All good though and we came back home ready for the sh#t storm that awaited us.
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