easy and nice J-tree top rope-ables

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skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 16, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
My wife and I are heading to Joshua Tree for a few days. At 55, she has spent 6 months gym climbing and is just started transitioning to out of doors. This will be her 3rd time out. Period. We recently went to Red Rocks and she was consistently at 5.8 and 5.9 for face with a couple 10a's. On cracks, shall we say she is groveling on 5.6 or 7 (Mt. Woodson). I really don't know the J Tree area and need some help so we don't just spend too much time hunting for something she feels comfortable getting on.

Looking for some "nice and easy" top rope-able stuff, mostly face and not too popular so we can take our time. We are slow movers so its better we stay out of the aggro areas. We don't mind out of the way, as long as it is max of 30 min hike. If there happens to be some nice 5.10 ish cracks near by, I'll be stoked.

Any good sources for this level stuff would be helpful. Thanks
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Jan 16, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
First, take a look at Todd's free Topropes pdf guide here:

http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/TopRopes/topropesv2.pdf

Also, check out the Outwawrd Bound Slab area, the MtnProj info is here:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/outward-bound-slab/105720918


...there are a lot of good quality, easy things out there on that OBSlab formation and nearby, it's about a 20min flat walk off the road and rarely has people, and there are some tasty 5.10-ish cracks nearby on Hidden Dome, the Financial Wall, Elsemere Island and more.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 16, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
Bear island on the way out has some super easy stuff as well. Also think about the Cat House, good TR's there in the sun!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jan 16, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
If you wish to go to a great place where you will not hold anybody up and have some good face and crack climbing options.

Belle Campground .... just to the right of a climb named Beligosi (SP?) and to the left of Belly Up.

EZ TR set up, EZ face and a nice crack in a corner to do some jamming and steming.

Outward bound uses this spot... cause they are smart.

have mucho fun

EDIT: Diagnostic is what the climb is named.... and the stuff 10 feet right.

Thanks G-D
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
Jan 16, 2014 - 04:27pm PT
Some nitwit asked a similar question, almost two years ago to to the day:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1721072&msg=1721072#msg1721072

Although if your wife is already in the 5.7 range, some of these answers may not apply.

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 16, 2014 - 04:33pm PT
also, consider Joshua Tree 5.8 sometimes means 5.10.

Case.

In.

Point.


(Two more)


Some other places those routes might be anywhere from 5.9 to 10B.
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
Jan 16, 2014 - 04:41pm PT
Heh, Dogleg. I've struggled to get off the ground on that one.

But it's not a good TR anyway.

TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Jan 16, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
You don't lead ~ she can't pull out gear?

Why tope rope ?
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Jan 16, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
Not being a wise, ^ Jus' say'n ~
(sorry if that seemed the case really didn't mean to if so)
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
Thanks, Elcapinyoazz. I was trying to remember joshuatreeclimb.com...I'd given up. AOBslab and the surrounding area look like they could fill the bill. Hidden Dome looks sweeeet....but that OBSlab could be perfect for my wife especially the first day.

GDavis, Guyman, Dave Kos. All your suggestions look good too. I have to admit she was a little freaked at first when we tackled some Woodson 5.8's on top rope, but she eased into it and for 55 is pretty determined. I figure she will learn to use her feet better at JT just cause the smearing is so nice. We plan to start out with the easiest stuff and work our way up in grade. It'll settle out where it settles out.

skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2014 - 06:24pm PT
Trundlebum. We are not quite ready yet. There is nothing I'd like better than to take her up something like Matthes Crest. Baby steps...for the both of us 'cause I want to stay married and for her to enjoy herself. Frankly I suck at climbing and am just getting going again after 30+ years away, but I'm having fun and getting outside. I still got a lot to learn. Also after the first day or so, we will join up with a group of people and the climbing situation could change a bit then.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Jan 16, 2014 - 06:44pm PT
also, consider Joshua Tree 5.8 sometimes means 5.10.

No way on planet Earth those routes you cited are 5.10.


+1 for OBS and that area.
There are many nice routes out there and not that many people usually.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Jan 16, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
I would also say the OB Slab and general area may be a good fit for what you are seeking. Unfortunately, the areas and routes in the on-line TR guide (with the exception of Belle Campground) are pretty heavily used and would not be a relaxed away from the crowds experience.

If you are not going to be leading, it may be fairly involved to set up TRs on the Hidden Dome routes (though they are excellent).
speelyei

Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
Jan 16, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
Trash can rock
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jan 16, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
No way on planet Earth those routes you cited are 5.10

Not to someone who is familiar with the area, but almost 10 years climbing at the park I've heard a few dozen people refer to those routes as "5.8 My Ass!"

If you climb in the gym and modern sport crags, those routes are indeed closer to 5.10 in effort. Just like a "v5" in Bishop takes me about 30 minutes of work to unlock yet I've never come close to the grade in josh - area is just stout : /
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Jan 16, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
The Short Wall area is good, but tends to be crowded on weekends.

Belle Campground and Diagnostics is fun. That's just one climb there, tho'.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Jan 16, 2014 - 11:11pm PT
In HVCG, Hands Off is such a great climb for the grade, easy to walk to top/set a TR and the base is in a very pretty alcove.

Also, the walk up on AFPA Rock is easy, though very exposed on a short slabby section, and you can set several TR's on the front, though you have to watch the rope as they just make it with a 60.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
Thanks again for the help all. After a hard month, my wife's dad has dementia and it came to a head this past week, it was nice to get away and not think about anything but where we were. Not sure if we really took anyone's advice per say...but the highlights were first pitch of Walk on the Wild side and the first pitch of Mental physics. Each day my wife commented that THAT was out of her comfort zone, but she pulled it off and we are still married.

GDavis, she specifically commented that the flailing laps on Elsa's Crack (Woodson) helped alot...no flail on Mental physics. Lot of slipping at the top of the first pitch of Walk on the Wild Side though. We gotta work on the foot work. All good though and we came back home ready for the sh#t storm that awaited us.
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