Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 190 of total 190 in this topic |
Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 4, 2014 - 03:15pm PT
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My training consisted of 320 feet of 60 degree from vertical climbing on this ladder.
This was 16 climbs upward for 20+ feet per run doing 5 different hold combos 3x each and a cool down lap.
This was preceded with performance enhancer supplements and recovery supplements
.
This was followed by a Truly Well Balanced Meal.
Part of which is shown. The rest is secret.
Now that I can do this particular routine of climbing quickly I'll have to add weights to my abs if I want to treat it as a power routine because I can do more than 10 grasps.
2 days of rest except for skate skiing and back to the Grotto routine. Now is the time to commit to such a workout for the temps here are about 5F colder than I want for doing real climbing which is neither.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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^^^ nice locker. nothing but 12 ounce curls for me..
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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cool ladder.
i drank a bunch of beer yesterday.
now i have beer muscles.
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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45 minutes of vigorous snow shoveling, then an hour long hike with the dogs.
Now I'm gently stretching in front of a roaring fire as I watch the football game.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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49.25 mi
15.2 mph avg
34.5 mph max
1219 ft gain
2891 Kcal
152 bpm max
133 bpm avg
51 rpm avg
Pineapple, whey shake, Pickles, peanuts and beer for recovery.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Swam 3,000 meters in 50:18.
Then gobbled up some grilled amberjack, gulf shrimp with blue crab corn stuffing and andouille sausage.
Only supplement was some Colorado candy to help out with tomorrow's rest day.
Dabba Dabba Hey!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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No pics, but I shoveled snow for a couple of hours. . .with the flu
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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the Under Siege workout
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Yoga
Plank
Pull-ups
Run
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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18 holes of disc golf and a 40 miler on the cycle.
they make colostrum in pill form? interesting, but i guess im not suprised.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, DMT...
you soup almost looked my new year's eve, duck soup, :)
this is how i trained today:
and, of course a bit of 'edge work'... or, shoveling my
driveway to the edge of the street... (as edge, mentioned, too) :))
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
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jaybro,
what is plank training?
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Day before racing tomorrow routine...some laps on the course, then 2 X 4min. level 3, one 2min Level4...some speed pick ups...10k skate race tomorrow. Snow is meager, but Auburn Ski Club has a huge volunteer community fan base, plus all the high school teams train there, so with some inspired shoveling, we will have a good 2.5k course to do 4 laps on.
Rolling, stretching, bath, and watching football, and video of today's Tour de Ski World Cups in Italy.
Peter
Same race last year...this is how winter should look! Sadly not the case right now.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Me and my homies went for a spin.
Kiss my ass all you Lance haters.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Did the Harney flow and heney bear. Dingus did you do the fa of those?
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Short trail run ducking ticks, hopefully.
Wonderful road bike with MY homies...looking out over Monterey Bay atop Swanton Road
Susan
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stunewberry
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Maysho-
You should come to Mt Spokane. We only have 45 of 60 k open for skiing, with another 7 opening tomorrow. Put in 30 k today, another 25 tomorrow.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Today was archery day with my shooting buddy Scott. It's a pretty good workout shooting arrows for a couple hours, not to mention the mental workout.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cool thread DMcGee. Nice setup you got there.
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Not so much training as "keeping the stoke alive", but I hiked a bit around Eldo.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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I taught my dogs to run down pigs.
and cops have NO sense of humor these days!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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^^^^^^
I think hiking up to & around the crags on off weather days is great training! The mental aspect is important too. Getting psyched!
Did footwork training today, bunch of 5.10 slabs. Friction was great so it was real fun.
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Q- Ball
Mountain climber
where the wind always blows
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I lift stripers (not to be confused with strippers)!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Brandon that's a good training day!
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Sex (2x)
That's probably the most protein your Vegan GF has had all year!
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sex (2x), bowling (2 strings), and hiking (3 miles).
Rest day. Wait, what was I training for?
In the order that you listed them, I would say horseback riding, drinking, and golf.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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LOL !
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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i call it the balboa circuit:
i handog my 40' x 2" rope,
then maul a couple of stubborn pine rounds,
then let the bunnies out of the hutch and
hustle after them around the yard until
they tire and surrender to my outstretched hands.
my neighbors, looking up
from their cushy couch-flatscreen environs
think i'm f*#king loony
and they are mostly right.
off the couch today i battled
out a piano-string tight malfunctioning
self belay up and overhanging flare
while singing out suicidal tendencies...
im not crazy! institution!
your the one who's crazy! Institution....
you're driving me crazy! institution.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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I've been wanting to do one of my buildering workouts while still in my walking cast. It went far better than expected. This retaining wall is about 160 feet long. I did one lap. I had to shake out a couple times. I like doing laps on it.
Always honored to follow Norwegian!
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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tennis shoes, all tri-cam (ok there was a hex in there) ascent of an easy little low-angle crack thing. floundered about on the start of some new overhang.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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4 beers out of an old coke machine, sitting in a hot tub at 4 o'clock in the p.m., 60 degrees at 7k ft. in good ol' califoni'a. mking eyes at my wife.
Oh yeah, there was a little snow on the ground.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Rode hard
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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chossy squeeze chimney with bird guano
Frank Baker Cave Route, Mt Diablo
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Collected all my gear, tomorrow, I begin again
Today I just set fence posts, ate brownies and drank wine.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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speelyei, that regimen (oil drum, rocks etc etc) looks excellent.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Tami, yeah, TMI. I instantly regretted it.
But I posted and it was quoted so I couldn't remove it completely. Lessons learned.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2014 - 08:12pm PT
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On Bobs second day on the Grotto he cruised 100' of the simulator. He and I think the cross pulls, or roll ups-twist in locks feel quite a bit like crack climbing when you have cross crack reaches. He worked the bigger holds.
To make this a power routine I would normally would have added weight since I could do the set proficiently but instead I bolted on the small crimps set and in lieu of adding weight did 3 sets of 10 grasps with each hand. Bob was sliding the crash pad along and so I squeeked out the whole set? sort of by accidentally reaching for the ladder lip once. I will need a few more runs to feel adding is necessary for a power workout. 60 feet of the small crimps gave me a hell of pump which may be useful training for the real Grotto Ceiling when temps warm.
Bob has plans to move his crack machine on top of the ladder. It will work fine there.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 10, 2014 - 08:25pm PT
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cooler curls
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
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Those are some big arms anita. Me jelly.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 10, 2014 - 09:04pm PT
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DMT, Dingus McGee has been publishing guidebooks by that name for well over 30 years I would guess.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
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Since 1978!
Mike M, I mosly worked Spearfish canyon ice and Little Elk Creek. I did go to do the Harney ice flow but it was thin that year. Did not look good enough for the way I felt the 1972 tools worked--Chouinard rigids front pointing and their hammers.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 10, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
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A tamer version of this.
A lot of one legged balance exercises on BOSU ball.
I've been doing a lot of BOSU ball balance and agility exercises the last 4 months.
I am IMPRESSED with what a difference I feel in flexibility, agility and balance that has transferred over to biking, running and skiing.
Susan
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 10, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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I have done three different flows in little elk creek with only one being anything but low angle ice, but it rarely comes in. Did do a few rock routes there also.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 10, 2014 - 09:56pm PT
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Here how my week went.
Climbed on the weekend.
Jan 6th Monday – run 6 miles. Quick pace. Rest day from climbing.
Jan 7th Tuesday – bouldered 2.5 hours. Did hangboard/pull ups. Did 2 problems I couldn’t for a while, finally. Was able to start a problem I couldn’t even start 2 weeks ago. Felt good.
Jan 8th Wednesday – 20 leg raises, 25 ball crunches, 20 lateral side pulls with 45lb weight, 25-35 push ups. 4 sets with 2 minutes rest in between.
7 mile hike
January 9th Thursday. Bouldered 2 hours. Some work on a campus board. And campus training. On one of the sets did 8 reps of 8-10 seconds on with 10-14 seconds off on holds I used to do 6-9 seconds with 20 second rests just two weeks ago. Also was able to do 6 pull ups on holds I was able to do 4 pull ups max.
Today, Friday - rest.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 10, 2014 - 10:49pm PT
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I hiked and did my plank workout....
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2014 - 06:43pm PT
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No more crash pad needed for the Grotto Ceiling simulator!
First we hooked a pulley tightened doubled 9.2mm single rope along the bottom of the ladder and loaded it in the center with body weight and concluded to much stretch. Then we tried a single line of 7/16 synthetic dyneeema winch cable. It had just the right stretch and impact lateral force for a fall from the ladder.
We added removable T-nutted plywood panels to the top of the ladder so we could bolt some standard ceiling type holds to the bottom of the plywood. But bingo, we can easily remove these and affix the crack machine on top the ladder.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 12, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
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Go Broncos.
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jan 12, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jan 12, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
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Training with this guy tomorrow. He's the bomb.
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Jan 12, 2014 - 10:14pm PT
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TR soloed this yesterday. Went and ran laps on G1 today until I was too pumped to hold onto my tools.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jan 12, 2014 - 10:20pm PT
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A little solo aid practice yesterday at the Tunnel Crags.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 13, 2014 - 12:09am PT
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Two hours in Vertical World, Seattle, where I also ran into Ghost (David Harris) and Mari. So cool to see them!
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 13, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
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21-15-9 deadlifts & box dips
then clean & jerk at my max
beeeeeeeeefcaaaaaaaaaaake@$#@
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 13, 2014 - 10:36pm PT
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Soloed shoestring on mt Webster.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 14, 2014 - 01:43am PT
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 14, 2014 - 07:43am PT
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training..What training;)
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2014 - 08:29am PT
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hey Nita 514,
where is the Great White North?
Inuvik, NWT Canada?
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 14, 2014 - 08:50am PT
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Montreal
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jan 14, 2014 - 12:38pm PT
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 16, 2014 - 01:38am PT
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Some serious shite on this thread. I walked along this beach in Tonga, swam for a while and then walked back. Truthfully that was last month, not today.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 17, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
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rowed 6 x 500m
then over head presses, 65lbs being my max
I feel like a noodle at the moment, and we're supposed to go ice climbing tomorrow morning. oh the humanity!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2014 - 10:18pm PT
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nita,
was that 500m on open water? movable seat, long oars?
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 17, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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A rowing machine.. Concept 2
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2014 - 06:33pm PT
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The Grotto Ceiling Simulator needed a few small repairs:
We switched out the 7/16 Dyneema sythetic winch cable to some 1/2" Dyneema so we would get less stretch. Of course that increased the 1/ sin(theta) at theta = 0.0 problem. To lessen the likelyhood of the ladder buckling we anchored both ends of the Dyneema snagger line to the building.
A compression spring was added to give 1.12" of easy travel with the snagger line which with a fall at the center would produce an angle of 5.7 degrees so a 150 lb person will put about 750 lbs on the wall. Because the ladder is compressed tight to the walls, the 300 lb rated ladder will resist some the wall deflection.
We felt we needed to work the thumb more in this routine so the first try at a pincher type hold was the 60 grit sand paper pinch.
We are working on two more ways of working the fingers that are an almost ready feature of these kind of ladders.
We cut away some wood from the spacer/blocking to make a 4" wide crimp of one inch depth.
There is a set of mono dwebe holds to be had by using the holes in the rung tubes. They will need a little burnishing to comphatise them.
A power work out is due tomorrow but I may push ahead the power training session one day and climb at Guernsey State Park. Temps 55, Sunny and no wind. 1st good climbing day in Jan.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jan 18, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
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I just finished 3 weeks of endurance. I would do enough laps to equal 1500-2000 feet on some 5.5-5.9 bouldering traverses after work with a headlamp and 10 pounds of extra weight. I would do it in one or two sessions. Took around an hour and a half at most. That would do that tue/thur. Saturday would go somewhere for a day trip. Monday and Wednesday would do 1 hour mat Pilates and 3x30 push-ups. Switching to power training for the next few weeks. Been feeling good and hope to do some dream routes this spring.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jan 18, 2014 - 10:25pm PT
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No J Tree today so I did 87mi on the bike.
Down to Long Beach, a little tour of the back streets and back.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 18, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
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About an hour and forty five on the mt. bike with about 1,700' up and down. Me and two other dads have to do dawn patrol in order to get out. Despite the lack of sleep it has its rewards. The sun coming up with Santa Monica Bay reflecting the sky far below, city lights still on and crazy pink sky from the Glendora fire. Memorable. Wish I had taken a picture.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2014 - 09:51am PT
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No Training on the Grotto Simulator Sunday but I did get the first new route 12 for WY Oregon Trail Romance. Temps 57F at Guernsey State Park. The route overhangs about about 20 feet in 50. I refer to the part that is the 50' above the redder base shown in the photo.
Vitale M: The power training pays off! Despite no real rock climbing in the last 5 wks due to extremely cold weather this was an easy cruise. I did have a one day affair with this line last year. Get a power routine on a system wall.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 20, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
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10 Pull-ups
20 Push-ups
30 Squats
15 Pull-ups
30 Push-ups
45 Squats
20 Pull-ups
40 Push-ups
60 Squats
25 Pull-ups
50 Push-ups
75 Squats
30 Pull-ups
60 Push-ups
90 Squats
Cap 20 minutes
didn't finish, had 20 push ups, and 90 squats left :(
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Jan 20, 2014 - 10:54pm PT
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i grabbed some nice purple, green, and red jugs through the crux.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 20, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
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my flu is better today, so i had a few beers.
tryin to ease the liver back into it.
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weezy
climber
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Jan 21, 2014 - 11:57pm PT
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Jan 22, 2014 - 12:11am PT
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TR antihero'd something slabby
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 22, 2014 - 07:23am PT
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Anita, are you a machine?
Moose: hardly. I am doing crossfit
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 23, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
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Nice work Dingus! That cliff looks fun, some sort of sandstone??
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 23, 2014 - 06:34pm PT
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Rode BMX in the skatepark last night for an 1:30. About as much workout as my hour roadbike ride the day before.
Had three gnarly crashes (last time I was on a 20" bike was probably 25 years ago), one dropping the pool when tire skated on the first carve, once when I looped-out coming off a ramp (BMX chainstays are REALLY short), and once when I lost foot contact with a pedal mid-air and raked a 9" gash down my shin on landing. How did I overlook the shin guards? They are n00b essential!
Returned the bike to the store today. That shitz too dangerous for old n00bs!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Jan 23, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
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I did a few rows.... just to loosen up.
ECap: WTF??? BMX???? BMX + ECAP + Skatepark = ER
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salad
Big Wall climber
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Jan 23, 2014 - 07:42pm PT
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skate parks are dangerous. downhill is where its at for geezers.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jan 23, 2014 - 07:57pm PT
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Russ,
Is that rope to keep the weight from blowin' away in the wind out there?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Jan 23, 2014 - 09:40pm PT
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Started P90X again. That was after 2 weeks of stretching out and after recovering from Hernia surgery on Dec. 2nd. The first workout was good. Hope to get under 160 this time around. After I finished Zodiac this Fall I was at 161. But I think I was a bit dehydrated. Gunna take a run up Mt Hood this weekend that should be good for a few calories burned. Got to get me some more ice
Plaid
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2014 - 01:04am PT
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We anchored the crack machine to the top of the Grotto Ceiling Simulaor with a ratchet mechanism and webbing.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2014 - 01:14am PT
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Ryan D,
...some sort of sandstone?
Well yes, it is orthoquartzite which among other things fractures across the sand grains and not so much along the cementing agent/lines thus making the bulk strength of it some what stronger than sandstone ordinaire.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 24, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
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Did a bunch of framing in cold temps: hauling lumber, climbing up and down stairs with tool bags, lifting skil saw, sawzall, hanmmer drill, swinging hammer, running material through the table saw, pounding in masonry anchors with a cut off sledge hammer, banging on the cat's paw and punch . . . perfect alpine training on a gorgeous sunny San Juan day in January.
Don't tell me I didn't get any exercise.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Jan 25, 2014 - 12:09am PT
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Loose scrambling and low fifth cracks, new, in bald as f*#k tennies. With mud and my dog-child.
I envy your setup Dingus.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 25, 2014 - 08:03am PT
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burpees, lifting, squats, burpees (last night)
now, trying to get motivated to go ice climbing... meh
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Jan 25, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
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3 Fox laps today! wheeeee!
Funny, I just went to that rig for the first time a few days ago. Also got on it 3 times.
On my 3rd go, I got my left foot stuck in the crack right before the move into the offwidth. There's that little dish on the left wall where you just want to put it. Well, when I went to step up I could not get it to come out. I pulled and pulled and it wasn't happening. I then pulled very violently and pulled myself right off and fell. I was on top rope but the rope stretched enough that I was almost upside down with my foot wedged in there. F**king OUCH!!
Luckily I had a cam on my harness that I was able to put in and clip to, to take the weight off. Even so, it took me several minutes to extract my foot. I was getting close to trying to untie my shoe and pull my foot out and simply leave a fixed mythos in there.
From now on, my foot either goes below or above that spot.
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Vulcan
Sport climber
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Jan 25, 2014 - 04:26pm PT
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Jan 25, 2014 - 04:43pm PT
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Just a plain ole' gym. Injured knee so can work out the top half of myself:-)
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Jan 25, 2014 - 07:18pm PT
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Hangboard - 20 sets of 12 sec hangs on the minute with 40# weight vest using medium edge on Metolius Simulator
Then 1 hour at Red Rock Climbing Center.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jan 25, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
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i humped the dog's leg
for about an hour.
you don't want to see pictures trust me.
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 25, 2014 - 08:12pm PT
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Took my non climbing wife and a visiting friend into Eldo. It looked great in the sun, but I was designated guide to the approach trails.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 25, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
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Ice skating....first time in several years...Curry Village... Pictures would not be good.
Making up for it quaffing beer in Mountain Room.
Susan
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Q- Ball
Mountain climber
where the wind always blows
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Jan 26, 2014 - 12:00am PT
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I lift fish from my farm!
Never gets old. And keeps me in shape. I can't always pick up all for pictures. Two will do!
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Jan 26, 2014 - 01:06am PT
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Jan 26, 2014 - 05:20pm PT
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Went up to the Hogs Back on Mt. Hood. No summit today.
Plaid
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
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Bob and I are done with the 10 sessions of power training on the Grotto Ceiling Systems Simulator and will begin the endurance phase. We added a vertical wall close by to the low end of the ladder so we could climb from the 10 deg overhanging gym wall to the bottom of the ladder. The climb off the top ladder end to the gym wall was already accessible. Now we can climb loops.
A typical workout:
1 loop using easy ladder holds to warm up.
3 min rest
2 loops no stopping with a more difficult set of holds
3 min rest
3 loops no stopping with a most diffcult set of holds on ladder
3 min rest
4 loops no stopping any combo of holds
This is 440 feet of climbing! Counting ends maybe 500'
This climbing is done without adding any weights -- no power routine here, just hanging on and moving.
We also sawed a 12 deg incut 1 inch wide hold on the stair rail stock to make a uniform set of holds that had a size between the ladder lip and the small crimpers. The ladder lip holds are quite difficult because they are thumbs toward the feet or cross armed and neither of these positions affords the best wrist angle to learn this hold set if you can barely do one cycle.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 27, 2014 - 09:20pm PT
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more burpees and weights
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 27, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
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Mapping out my ride tomorrow on RideGPS only to have it lose it more than once. The aggro was like a workout. Tomorrow will be better as long as no flat(s).
Susan
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 27, 2014 - 09:48pm PT
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1:40 on the mtn bike. Swapped parts on my old CAAD2 hartail to take it from a commuter back to a XC singletrack destroyer and took if for a shakedown.
Ended up with a nice longish warmup climb, then intervals riding the obstacles, a nice 130bpm paced loop, then a screaming downhill bomb back to the car.
Forgot how much I enjoy mtn biking and ended up riding far longer than I'd planned (only planned a quick 30min..needed to go grocery shopping)
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2014 - 09:27pm PT
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The weather forecast for Guernsey changed to much by this a.m. to be expecting good weather. With averted plans today become the first day training on the Endurance Phase of Periodization.
I was able to do the set listed below, no falls but some hedging in that I shifted all my grips to at least one set easier and set rest time equal to wall time.
1 loop using easy ladder holds to warm up.
3 min rest
2 loops no stopping with a more difficult set of holds
3 min rest actually about 5 min.
3 loops no stopping with a most diffcult set of holds on ladder 7:32 min
3 min rest changed to 7 min rest
4 loops no stopping any combo of holds 7:00 min
This set of sessions is not power and some 7 hrs later I do not feel that muscle tear down typical from power workouts. So maybe one day of rest and then back for more endurance. We'll see.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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I've taken up African Dance.
Seriously.
:)
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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couple of hours of various and sundry internet punditry. forum members feel the power1111!!!!666
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Ice climbing before and after work.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Got up at 5:30 a.m. so I could be at the trails at 6:30 a.m. for a mt. bike ride with a bud up into Topanga SP (Trailer Canyon to Eagle Rock/Eagle Springs). 1:45, 12 miles, 1,800' up and down. Awesome scenery and good fun. Other than a couple of other hearty souls, we had the place to ourselves.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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The gym, weights and stationary bike. Something outside after work today...
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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WML,
What is the "Honnold Core workout"?
Can it make me look like this?
 Luke
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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^Is that Paul Ryan?!
campused the understairs repeatedly. when will I be Jaybro strong?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
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Scarpelli and I got the gym heated to 28F from some -20F outside by the time we started a new routine. We are done with the endurance sessions. At this point Eric Horst would say rest a week. We skipped the wk of rest. Normally, next would be 4 weeks of general outdoor climbing. ?? in this weather--no way Hosea.
We decided to do 10 circular laps on the Grotto Simulator each using the holds of our choice. My rest time would equal Bob's climbing time. This worked out differently than you might image. For last 3 laps my rest time was zero. Now Bob does not climb at an infinite speed.
1. horns
2. 1" crimps
3. pockets to x-pockets
4. x-pulls to upper ladder lip( a resulting crimp) most strenuous
5. begin 3/8" - 3/4" progressive crimp: most intense on fingers
6. 3/8" progressive crimp again
7 -10. continued in this reverse order. And NO falls.
Climbing length may equal 10 overhanging pitches at 50' each. And this felt like general climbing.
some excitement gained from doing something NEW
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Just got off the road bike. A hard, fast, 6 mile loop hammering all the way. Almost got sick at one point. The weather wasn't nice to ride in today, way humid for here, windy and chilly. My ears and head hurt like a mofo.
This is a deloading week (actually going into the second week of deloading, will start ramping back up the vol and intensity next week).
This week:
Sun - Rode 1hr mtn bike, Sycamore canyon. Basically an intervals workout.
Mon - Hangboard, 7/3 repeaters.
Tues - Goblet squats, slegehammer pronators, rice bucket, scapula retractions with bands
Wed - road bike 30:00 at slightly over AE threshhold pace
Thur - max bouldering
Fri - goblets, pronators, rice bucket, dips, adductors, front levers, etc
Sat - mtn biking
Sun - climbing routes outside.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Bike to nowhere last night, moderate session.
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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SuperNova Gym here in Pueblo West - a nice fitness center. I don't like to work out in these places but it's icy and 7 degrees, so can't do my pull-ups outside. Fitness centers rarely have a focus on bodyweight exercises. It may be hard to share a pull-up bar with a weightlifter using the same cage. And hand-traversing the pull-up frame means avoiding all those damned handles sticking out as well as guys doing the pully things on the side!
I did do an outdoor work-out at a local playground a few days ago at 30 degrees with snow covered ground. Gets a little harder as I approach 77, but still exhilarating.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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^^Awesome and inspiring John keep it up!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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elbows hurting pretty bad now. Need a rest day or two, some Vitamin I, and have been icing the elbows.
Get off the I (masking the pain isn't helpful, probably causes you to do more damage by climbing when you shouldn't be. Pain is a useful tool for me, tells me I've done something wrong or overdone it) cut back your volume, add some balance/maintenance work.
For every climbing focused sessions, you should be doing a maintenance session. The best thing I've found for elbow preventatives are a rice buket workout and sledgehammer type pronators doing only the negative of the rep (raise the weight back up with your other hand, and control it on the negative, I actually use a dumbell with the weights off one side rather than a sledge because my shorty sledges aren't heavy enough).
EDIT: By "pronator" I mean rest your forearm on your leg, with your hand oriented vertically/thumb on top like you would shake someone's hand. Grip the end of a dumbell or sledge and lower the weight toward the space between your knees. When the weight bar or sledge handle gets to parallel with the floor, raise it back up to vertical with the other hand and lower. I do 2-3 sets of 15-20 reps. For the rice bucket, look on DPM or Steve Edwards' site, or search youtube for steve edwards rice bucket.
I probably boulder way more than you and had all those elbow problems in my 20s. Haven't had any, even with some months of every-other-day bouldering at my limit. If I negelect these exercises, I feel it starting to creep in.
Hard won experience, stand on the shoulder of those who came before you and all those cliches. It works for me, and it's worked for everyone I train with who has stuck with it. You didn't ask, but that's my $0.02 anyway.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2014 - 09:40pm PT
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We added some 20ft of pvc pipe onto the top side of the ladder to make open hand hold graps. We are using both 2" ID & 3" ID sch 40 pvc pipe. We painted a 2" strip of Bondex Exterior House Stucco on the length of the 3" pvc to make a zone of more friction for those who want less slipperiness.
We no longer use the ladder's rungs even for warm ups.
The workout was 10 laps.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Feb 10, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
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Shaved a minute off the ride to work,
three minutes off the ride home.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 10, 2014 - 10:11pm PT
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Ice skating lesson. Rink getting busy with future Olympic hopefuls. They are sooooo cute!
No pics....not that brave.
Susan
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Feb 11, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
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I just ate some turkey bacon.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Feb 11, 2014 - 07:03pm PT
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Dingus
on the 3" PVC, do you rotate the pipe to choose between more or less slipperiness?
How is it anchored, or is it not?
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Feb 12, 2014 - 02:01am PT
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Rest day today from cycling; weights in the morning, followed by sauna, followed by hangs, followed by 27 holes of disc golf, followed by full core regimen in the evening. Twas a good day.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Feb 12, 2014 - 11:47am PT
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steve shea
climber
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Feb 12, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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Skied 20x20 then did hamstring hell. yesterday.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Feb 12, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
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1hr on plastic and hangboard followed by some rolling, planking and bosu ball squats. Been doing more gym/joint therapy this week to avoid the slush and work on that age reversal thing
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2014 - 05:24pm PT
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scuffy b,
yes, we do rotate the pipe to the current climbers choice of desired friction.
The two 10 feet pieces of pipe are each fastened in their mid zone to the ladder with 1" webbing and tightened with a 1" ratchet windlass. The webbing is wrapped around the bottom of the ladder near a rung, running over the top of the pipe then down, back and under the center of a rung to the top of the pipe and then to the ratchet tightening assembly. We have the ratchet on the top side of the ladder. Surprisingly, just one attachment to the pipe and ladder done this way is quite sufficient when cranked moderately tight to counter the climbers introduced twisting force.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 12, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
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Throw this one in with your 12 min Honnold core with a 1 min rest for a real good 25 min workout. Really good if you are working on strengthening your lower back.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 12, 2014 - 05:32pm PT
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The day is young!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 12, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
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nice nordic ski. have to lose 20lbs by sunday to have a chance on the climb I want to have a look at;)
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Feb 13, 2014 - 12:19am PT
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I put 45 pounds of lead weight in a backpack and did laps on the hill near my home.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2014 - 07:26am PT
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MooseD,
P.S. Some of you train a lot! Aren't you afreid of overtraining?
Overtraining?? Only my penis, I heard what happened to Locker.
He got atrophication!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 13, 2014 - 07:29am PT
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overtraining is real. I am paying the price now for the 20years of martial arts crazyness in my youth. elbows and knees are toast. too many kicks and punches.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2014 - 07:33am PT
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tradsmanclimbs,
" crazyness" , is not training but putting your training to use.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Feb 13, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
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that lower back foundation thing is legit. my back appreciated it after doing it once, and I am interested in results from doing it regularly.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 13, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
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Anaerobic endurance session on plastic. First one of the phase and my AE is horrendous right now. I was kind of shocked at how poor it was, but it does train up quickly, I can usually pleateau out within 8 sessions or ~3 weeks. Should set me up to peak for a couple sport route projects in March.
Weight vest hill repeats?
Out of curiousity, what are you trying to train by doing that?
Maybe your goals are sports other than climbing?
The only thing I can imagine it has any usefulness for in climbing is if you are an alpine climber, or are very weak in the legs and routinely climb in places with monster approaches. You're doing anaerobic intervals for your legs and cardio. Should help your mtn biking though.
Vests themselves aren't ideal in my experience. Especially for any climbing activity as they put the weigh on your traps/neck and by doing so make your shoudler articulations different since you are typically in a hands overhead position when climbing. I cringe anytime I see people doing it in the gym (and if it was my gym, I'd get rid of the things). If you want to go that route, better to use something around the waist like a diver's weight belt.
On the lower back piece, std barbell squats, deadlifts, & heavy kettlebell swings are great. Only caution is that barbell squats are difficult for most to maintain good form, especially without a partner/coach evaluating form and if you're prone to cheat them and not go below parallel.
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Feb 13, 2014 - 12:13pm PT
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Stretch, rolling and a series of light dumb bell shoulder exercises, oh and some hammy thrashing for knee goodness.
Ryan, thanks for the lowerback vid. What is the Honnold core sh!taqua?
I need to drop 10-15lbs as well; I would be doing the nordy thing but my durned Morton'sNeuroma started messing with me again earlier this week. Cardio gets tough when you can't pound your feet!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2014 - 09:29pm PT
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Pinching the bottom of the Grotto ladder Rail with sandpaper applied to the sides and holding onto it with one hand is a feat of superior strength. Developing a less than super difficult Pinchable Hold for the Grotto Ceiling Simulator has been an ongoing conceptual task for me. I am on about tenth prototype. One form of the pinchable holds used in gym climbing are often inverted "V"'s.
The inverted "V" pinch holds are unsatisfactory for use on the Grotto Simulator as a pinch hold because the climber can load the back-cling finger side with his legs pushing against the rungs hard enough to need no thumb pressure to hang from the hold.
Here are some of design goals:
1. The hold must require use of the thumb.
2. Ideally leg force would not lessen the thumb force needed in pinching or frictioning to hold the hold hard enough to hang one handed.
3. The hold has to fit and work on the hold spaces left on the ladder. For the hand to fit the remaining space the holds would have to hang down from the last available set of bolt holes/T-nuts.
4. A suspended hold that could rotate would prevent leg force on the rungs from lessening the thumb pressure need to stick to the hold.
Here it is the first working variety:
Scarpelli says this gripping would be a good hammer hanging training routine if we were ice climbers.
The second prototype being test is:
In fact hanging on to it is harder than hanging onto this:
So to make the PVC less slippery we added 4 sq inches of stair tread gripper surface to each hold. With this little area of mineral grip surface, hanging from the PVC is still more difficult than hanging from the rope shown above.
The ladder hold space is now saturated with holds and there is no space left for easy bolt on holds. But where is the mother of invention?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 14, 2014 - 12:44am PT
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Weights yesterday, top ropes today!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 14, 2014 - 01:31am PT
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trained twice today. #228 express and the #198 local.
woo woo.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Feb 14, 2014 - 02:13am PT
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What the hell is HonnoldCore?
I was training today trying to fit this on my throat...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 14, 2014 - 02:15am PT
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Gym twice this week.
Climb this weekend
Have fun
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 02:26am PT
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You guys are old! Deal with it!
This f*#king supplement crap is not good for you. Don't listen to the herbalists and all that bs.
Whatever, do what you will. I ran around the yard with my 5 yr old. More like fast-walking.
Just eat well and keep moving. 'Nuff said...
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Feb 14, 2014 - 06:45am PT
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yeah, what is Honnold core?
I have not worked out in 2 weeks. fail.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 07:45am PT
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I have not worked out in 2 weeks. fail.
Holy shite.. Those gr8 cover girl selfies must be distracting your workout efforts?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 07:47am PT
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Core?
How much Core does a guy need??
How much Core does a climber need??
Isn't core that part of the apple that ... Pigs eat?
Would backups with hips at the edge of a table while holding a 25 lb weight on your head count?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 08:13am PT
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The Ryan D post of a workout?
Maybe I have become an old man, but I would much rather have skate skied for 11:59 min up a steep hill than bother watching/doing those cage routines. The force from poling action is transmitted through the body core to a ski or two.
Back therapy or a workout?
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 14, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
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Weights and climbing back to the grind!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 03:08pm PT
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looks easy from here,
My fist is a hair smaller that Scarpelli's. I think he calls his 4 1/4". But his hands have more volume than mine and his fingers are sausages.
The rope is [just guessing] < 2" . Material?? The company that sold it to me taped the ends, so maybe it is not a melt-able synthetic like nylon or Dacron.
It mostly hangs out of use as it too close to the shelving for an impediment less free climb. Are you looking to get one?
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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Thanks. And yeah, I'm looking at getting one. I'm moving into a house with a real yard and I want to hang a thick rope for climbing. There's a very convenient tree limb a shade over 25' up, so I figure I'll need about 30'. I've been vacillating between 1-1/2" and 2" (I'm leaning towards 1-1/2"), and between manila or some other material (though don't have any idea what that other material would be).
At the risk of a minor thread hijack, any advice would be very welcome.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 14, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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WML, glad u liked the foundation workout.
I agree Dingus, watching vids etc is boring as sh#t but for me all training is boring as sh#t. Doing a large variety of physical challenging things besides climbing for me keeps it interesting and gives me good results personally. Besides hangboard most of my training is either working opposing muscles (yoga, foundation), or cardio (trail running) as I spend a lot of time climbing as it is. If I'm forced into plastic land it's usually about power endurance.
Oh, & u should try that workout before comparing it to poling up a hill, it's as much like skate skiing as skate skiing is like sitting on a bench & giving your 2 training buddies tug jobs at the same time- exactly the same but totally different. The whole idea is to lengthen the spine & strengthen the small stabilizers in your legs, great stuff for climbers, road bikers & other active types prone to Quasimodo type posture.
I wouldn't call it therapy but it could be classified as preventative maintenance. I do it once a week.
I like this thread, it's motivating to see what works for others & what others are doing to stay honed. Good work everyone.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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looks easy from here,
this rope is >= 16 ft, and < 18' with a braided/spliced loop for the anchor end. It was sold at that fixed length from Metolius? The diameter made for a secure feeling grip and it was not very slippery. It does look like a natural fiber. Sorry for the lack of definiteness but the rope is not near this web station.
30' long: fall? Norwegian, an ST member here, has posted a picture of himself climbing a longer rope than mine. He may have more ideas.
If you contact him you may get your reply in some far out poetry.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 06:48pm PT
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Ryan D,
thanks for the blip, I will think this order:
Therapeutic exercises <<< preventive exercises >>> work out exercises
I have emboldened the word work for meaning a force against a resistance and some displacement === endurance or power training for you muscles.
Therapeutic == carefully monitored preventive exercise or even less intense than preventive.
preventive == maintenance?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 14, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
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If you want to train pinch strength, this is far and away the best thing I've used, eliminates the ability to cheat via compression from the pecs and is in a perfect neutral wrist alignment. The Trango Rock Prodigy hangboard (second pic is a closeup of the pinch, allows for 2 widths about 5" and about 2", could also use the really thin one but it's stupidly hard):
I've got very good pinch strength, and can only use about BW+20 for repeaters on the 2", so most are going to need to remove weight via a pulley system to train on it.
Today is rest.
Last night was maintenance...rice bucket sequence 9 movement @ 1:00 ea, pronators 3sets x 15 reps @ 15lb, scapular retrations with triple therabands, front lever holds, goblet squat+KB swing supersets @ 23kg, 10+15 rep.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 06:52pm PT
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Norwegian's post earlier in this thread was what inspired me. IIRC he said his was 2", but I feel like that large of a diameter will blow out my grip before it works anything else. Thus my inclination to 1-1/2": thick enough to work my grip, but thin enough to pull on it long enough to get the lats and bis and core going. 25' is a big drop if I blow it, but I'm not too proud to lap it only half way for a while, and I'll be landing on a pretty good cushion of redwood duff if I do have to bail.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 06:55pm PT
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from McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-fibrous-cords/=qp2cbi
General-Purpose Manila Rope
Can be spliced
Does not flatten
Knots easily
Meets Fed. Spec. TR605
Twisted construction is easy to grip. Manila rope is stronger than sisal rope. Color is tan.
To Order: Please specify length from those listed. The last length listed is the maximum continuous length.
Warning! Never exceed work load limits; never use to lift people or items over people.
Rope
Dia. Work Load
Limit, lbs. Available Lengths, ft. Per
100 Ft.
1/2" 264 50, 100, 200, 300, 600, 1,200 3825T33 $28.37
5/8" 496 50, 100, 200, 300, 600, 1,200 3825T34 44.19
3/4" 695 50, 100, 200, 300, 600, 1,200 3825T35 56.28
1" 1,160 25, 50, 100, 200, 600, 1,200 3825T36 92.50
1 1/4" 1,740 10, 50, 100, 200, 300, 600 3825T37 150.00
1 1/2" 2,380 Any up to 600 3825T38 210.26
2" 4,000 Any up to 600 3825T39 367.50
Why not try 600 feet? they have it that long.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 07:13pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz,
thanks for those pics, I will have to study them for use on the Grotto Simulator. I can see they could work somewhat [as to my design goals] when oriented downwards and anchored to the ladder rails. I would need 20 identical grips as per the method of this way of training.
The black stair tread grip is also a way to make the likes out of wood of something similar the way your handholds load the fingers vs. thumb.
Thanks, still working on a better prototype
D
ps Yes that angled surface would load the fingers more but still require the intervention of the thumb to generate enough compression to hold the grip.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 07:27pm PT
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B-but does Warning! Never use to lift people mean
I'm gunna die?!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
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1. you will be climbing this, right?
2..Or you buy just 3 feet and hang on while a winch line lifts the end of that 3' piece.
1. Is not declared unwise use but 2. is. No lifting of people
McMaster Carr is not the cheapest place to buy but they have very quick delivery. Soon they will be selling drugs in CO and WA.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 07:58pm PT
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Well played.
I've seen seen it listed places with a metal bracket with a loop for easy hanging which seems like it might be more versatile than a spliced loop, so I'll probably buy it preplumbed from one of those vendors.
Then again, it might swing more like that...
But it will be less likely to wear out...
Stupid analysis paralysis.
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yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
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Feb 14, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
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Carried a 115 pounds on a barbell behind my neck for 800 yards. That was the easy part.
Dragged 120 pounds on a steel sled across pavement. 200 yards walking forward. 200 yards walking backwards. then again 200 yards walking forwards and finally 200 yards walking backwards. It was the last 50 yards walking backwards that really got my lungs working in hyper mode.
Then I flipped a medium size tractor tire for 100 yards.
That was enough.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2014 - 08:19am PT
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Training put to use.
Sunday Feb 16, 2014 Temps at Guernsey State Park, WY = 63F --shorts and T-shirt. With this temp, we could climb in the shade and stay warm. Scarpelli and I headed for the perched cove of the Maroon Tower Wall.
While on the first attempt of the FA of the largest roof in the cove I got an exercise induced asthma attack so I lowered off at the second roof bolt and did 2 hits of Albuterol. Again after climbing to the base of the roof, asthma, but I went for the horizontal climbing anyway figuring the needed adrenalin to soon be secreted would suppress the asthma. After a series of long reaches and many lounges the FA was secured at the anchor bolts and no asthma.
A storm began brewing to the west. Rain torrents in Sybile Cyn and just after Morton Pass driving on ice and with no visiblity and temp = 33F. A welcome back home to the Laramie Valley that same day.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Feb 19, 2014 - 10:26pm PT
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... the FA was secured at the anchor bolts and no asthma.
Great send. My kid uses a nebulizer with albuterol and pulmacort -but I'm hoping he'll get over it. BTW - does that summit spike go too?
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overwatch
climber
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totally agree about the back stabilization posted by Ryan D. I have been doing that fairly regularly for the past few weeks and it definitely makes a huge difference and not just on the back. my knees feel better too
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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That's rad the foundation is working for U guys! I did that & 12 min Honnold core today, too much fun in the snow lately. Time to get in shape!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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soloed laps on 35m WI4 and one lap on a 30m 3
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Robotussin and about 16 hours of sleep.
Sick core workout, literally. Coughing fits are surprisingly ab intensive.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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The circus came to town, house was tented for termites for the first time in about 35 years.
When they do this they have to have the gas co turn off the service. When they turned it back on today I had a 6 cfh leak.
So!
I dug ditches.
The 60+YO service main is rusted out so I get to dig up the front yard and replace it. Finished about 50 ft of it today.
Only about 20 more ft tomorrow and then demo all the old pipe.
On top of that I don't even get a hot shower!
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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weights, sauna, hangs, pedal pushin, disc throwin, werd.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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... five minutes of hip openers ... Is that code for you having sex?
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Mar 23, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
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I just finished a long, six day work week hanging doors, laying tile, installing cabinets; it sure felt like training. I decided to work Saturday due to the inch of snow forecast. Feel the burn.
Today is a rest day. I did do a 3 mile hike with the wife and a couple friends, but now I'm resting. Really.
Should be drying up nicely this week so hopefully getting out on the rock next Saturday.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 23, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
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Weights, hikes, climbs... I forget...but I'm headed to guernsey to do the first sclean, drug free ascent of dingus' route!!
Wadis-he? From the valley, or something?
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Mar 23, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
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Knocked off 17 kms. on the Birkie Trail. Took me about 2 hours. 5 degrees at the start- Had to watch out for a case of Hooter Bite! Snow was a little slow and I was dragging ass the last 15 minutes.
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ncrockclimber
climber
The Desert Oven
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great thread!
what is the "honnald core workout" that keeps getting mentioned?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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The core workout they are talking about is basically 2min planks+2min pushups or crunches for 3-4 rounds. If you want to try something that is actually difficult for the core, try some stability ball rollouts from a plank (arms on the ball with hands together in a plank position, roll the ball forward and back in)
Fri: Hangboard weighted repeaters 5 grips/sets x 5reps @ 7on/3off, rice bucket
Sat: Deep tissue massage. Really helping these days.
Sun: 2hr mtn bike ride
Mon: Bouldering in the gym. 15 problem warmup pyramid to 50/50 flash level, 9 max efforts, 6 problem warmdown pyramid.
Tue: Hip adductor machine 3x10 @ 110, crunch machine, 2x10 @ 80,110, goblet squat+kettlebell swing supersets 2x15/20 @ 45lb, leg lifts 2x20, stability ball planks 2 x 1:00 (one set arms on, one set feet on), stability ball plank rollouts 2x10, tricep extension.
I'm wicked sore in the abs. Coming off the hangboard phase and having been too busy to get my supplemental workouts in (I usually do them at work since we get 3hr/week for gym time), I didn't realize how de-trained I'd be in core. Doing a core session the day after a bouldering session is my std routine. Today I knew during the warmup sets that it was going to hurt, bad. And it did.
Climbing training Day 1, supplemental (core, antagonists, etc) Day 2, yoga/super light cardio/rest on Day 3 is my typical 3 day cycle.
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Sanskara
climber
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Fractured heel two weeks ago so I am doing what I can.
1000 various crunches and core exercises.
20 reps 4 sets on the rock rings working from the bottom to top the hold. Then hold on till I peel. F*#k ice climbing makes you weak. 20 reps and I am cooked I can hold on after my last rep for like 30 seconds before I peel.
20 minutes of pranayama
30 of meditation
Followed by ten minutes in head stand and 10 minutes in shoulder stand with variations.
It's not ideal but iits what I can do and better than nothing!
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Right fore-finger is worked after scrolling through this thread!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 22, 2014 - 10:43pm PT
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Dug some holes!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jun 22, 2014 - 11:27pm PT
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Drove to Edgewood Road to ride road bike up East Alpine Road. Parked van and discovered that rear tire was flat. Changed inner tube. Road up to dirt at end of East Alpine and, on the way back down, discovered that the new inner tube was losing air. Changed inner tube again on the side of the road and biked back to Edgewood without another flat tire. Round trip: 30 miles. Got back home and ate small spinach pizza. Ate 1/2 a gram of hash. Am going to bed. Dunno. Maybe I'll wake up in the middle of the night and pig out on day-old raviolis? Never know what'll happen late at night!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Laramie
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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10 laps on this this AM, not quite all successes
Currently I working on a sideways lunge off the ladder. I am working on a frame work for feet positioning.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 13, 2014 - 11:14am PT
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20 mile bike ride in Woodside yesterday following by 5 sets of pull ups with a 25lb plate. Bouldering this morning? Maybe. Being lazy has its virtues too.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jul 13, 2014 - 12:43pm PT
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I ingested enough food for a semi permanent 30lb plate. Time for the tide to turn.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 29, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
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Yoga, run, pull-ups, inverts and abs...
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Battling ropes, Russian twists w 10lb ball, 30lb ball slams... I am feeling it today.
Probably going to head up for a 10-13km hill hike in a bit.
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