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| Messages 1 - 27 of total 27 in this topic |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 31, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
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Third time's the Charm so let's welcome The Natural to our forum.
Always the first to burn off the local standard bearers anywhere, anytime the estimable Mr. Woodward has an oversize heart which has been dedicated to helping out stray cats of late. One awesome climber that you would never pick out of a lineup of meaty monkeys, Jonny always leaves plenty of work for the rest of us with his long list of test piece routes.
Leave me the right one if it's fun we're having tonight, the other's lazy!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Dec 31, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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Really? Jonny has signed up for ST.....so unlikely. But it's wonderful to have one of his caliber here. Wonder if all the patience and understanding with the feral cats has prepped him to survive the campfire.
Hugs to you Mr. Woodward along with many pleasant memories of yesteryore and climbing with Dan and Friends.
Smiles and Happy New Year, Lynne
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Dec 31, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
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i was just reading about trench warfare,
alpinist 23.
good to have you, jonny.
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splitter
Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Dec 31, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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dudes THE MACK, much respect!!
taken from initial/today's post of the 2014 Woodson thread...
edit: + he's evidently gonna crush SB via sending it one handed (either R or L hand)...KILLER!
"stray cat's" -- awesome! this lady/friend in my condo complex has been feeding these stray, abandoned & feral cats (currently around 18) everyday for the past 16 years, or so. she has neutered and vaccinated, etc all of them. KUDOS to both of ya!
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John Morton
climber
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I spotted JW once, in the late 80's I think. I was walking along the base of the NE face of Middle Cathedral Rock and saw a pile of some climber's stuff. A party was climbing above, high on the wall. There was a guidebook, and it said "Jonny Woodward" on it. So I picked it up and turned to the index where he had ticked off his climbs. I don't remember anything in particular, but he had done many many routes, an impressive number for a non-resident. Those traveling Brits grow no moss.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2014 - 06:40pm PT
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Bump for the tale of Bucksnort Botchjob.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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The Gentleman Jonny made our families temporary transfer to Utah such a pleasant and seamless adventure years ago. Made us feel at home and like family from day one.....shared some great English Ale a well! Look forward to seeing him in the next week or two.
Peace
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jonnywoodward
climber
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In the early eighties Maria had a civic hatchback, the rear side windows of which hinged outward and even when closed had a great little crimper edge all the way around them, perfect for bear claws. One morning we get to the camp 4 lot, the circus is in full swing, the window is out and our stuff is all over the place. Missing is the majority of our food and.... my guide book. So, up there on Middle Cathedral.... could have been me or the folks who took my book. Suppose that would depend whether the route already had a check mark by it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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How do you do it man? ground up on the hard mega dime-thin smear fests!
outrageous!
welcome to the ST campfire
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Welcome Jonny, you are a magician on rock....I respect and fear your routes. You never blow your own horn, no need to, your climbs speak for themselves.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Welcome!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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We camped and hung out with Jonny and Mariah in camp4 for a few weeks back in 82 or 83. Really nice people. We had a good time.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2014 - 10:57am PT
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Bump for Beau Geste.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jan 17, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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Hey Jonny. Good to see you here, holding up the very sharp end for the Salt Lake crowd.
If you're inclined to write about it, I'm sure you'd get a fair bit of interest in a report about Dog Eat Dog (for those of you who don't know, this is a 13d roof in Big Cottonwood Jonny put up almost 20 years ago, and still unrepeated).
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Jan 17, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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Jonny! One of my students did the line drawing below and they don't even know you!
Glad to see you here.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jan 19, 2014 - 12:25pm PT
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When Jonny came to the States we were blessed to have him stay with us for awhile. Then the kiddos.... Pete, was in 8th grade and Seth, just starting kindergarden.
We had a wonderful reunion this weekend and Jonny got to met the grandkids at the same Casa he stayed in in '82. Wonderful!
Cheers, Mr. Woodward :)
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Jan 19, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
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And this what happens at Gomez'. Jonny still pushing the limit!
Peace
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jan 19, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
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Oh my, that was fun! Thanks, Sir Gomez :) Especially enjoyed the card game.
Three people, 3 bottles, that makes sense.....just kidding family.
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tonesfrommars
Trad climber
California
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Jan 19, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
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When I was in high school I had a VHS tape of a film called "yosemite climbing" (I think) which featured Jonny and Herman Wing. They hit the cookie cliff (butterballs and wheat thin) and then climb tales of power/seperate reality. It made a huge impression on me.
At some point Jonny showed up at Stoney Point which was our daily after-school bouldering haunt. So cool!
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splitter
Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Jan 19, 2014 - 03:51pm PT
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Cragman - ... Did you hear what Woodward did at Tahquitz ... or Suicide ... or Josh? You forgot to add ... or Woodson"!!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 19, 2014 - 05:36pm PT
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hey there say, first:
welcome to jonny woodward.... (am not a climber, but my brother chappy is)...
then, second:
wow, to lynne and ron and mrs! looked like a wonderful time for all!
perfect timing and joy spreading for an overflow to the ol' taco, here...
very nice share... i really love the from olds-to-nowadays type share, :)
memories get renewed and shared again, that way,too!
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OR
Trad climber
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Jan 19, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
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Very cool. One of my early heroes.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Jan 19, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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Mr. Jonny, sir, I guess the only reason there are not hordes more people welcoming you is that, like me, we're all intimidated as can be by your rock prowess. I have finally overcome my shyness and thinking, who the hell am I to welcome Jonny Freakin' Woodward, so I would now like to send you a big welcome.
Phyl
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Jan 19, 2014 - 08:54pm PT
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Nice phylp. Good, honest thoughts. Expressions that come from realness mean much. Cheers on a beautiful eve.
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Jan 29, 2014 - 02:30pm PT
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A Dog Eat Dog request? OK, here goes. The story does have a few interesting moments, I suppose.
When I moved to SLC in 1991 I was surprised that the major roof on the most popular crag in Big Cottonwood had only the one line on it, an impressive Ruckman brothers route taking the obvious rail through the roof from R to L. There was another 'obvious line' of faint seams going straight out and with so many good climbers in the area there was no time to lose. Boone Speed was keen to take a look so I went up there with him, aided out on A2 wires and got the bolts in. See, If I was really the climber you thought I was, I would have led it off natural gear. I thought it was going to be a quick 12d. How very wrong that was.
It ended up being hard to find partners, which is interesting because the climb is quite impressive and absorbing with a series of very unique and complex moves, but eventually Dale Goddard went along with me regularly and ended up teaching me everything I know about working routes. In fact this is the only route I have ever worked in the modern sense of the word, and the hardest route I have ever done by some substantial margin. We linked sections from the end, slowly extending them back towards the start, so that every link ended successfully at the anchor. Dale, and every other person who had gone up there with me, said it was 5.14 for sure, and who was I to argue, since they'd done the grade and all I'd done was quick ascents of half a dozen 13-s. So we both eventually had it down to one hang, which in reality was still a long way off actually doing it, but it begged the question 'what am I going to do if he looks like he's going to send it?' I'm not mad.... so clearly the answer was 'pull the bugger off'. Anyway I never had to strain our friendship because I was able to sneak in a day with Stuart Ruckman and in great conditions send it after about 30 days spread over a couple of years.
As soon as I'd done it, the route mysteriously became easier.... most of the people saying it was 5.14 now said it was 13d, max - an interesting phenomenon that a psychologist could have fun with no doubt. A slab climber doing a 14 roof that nobody else in the area could do must have been strangely threatening. I tried to convince Stuart to put it in the guide at 13e.
I must admit I am very proud of this route, and I understand the allure of working something hard for a long period of time, though I personally found the persistent failures too demoralizing to make it a habit. It's only about 20' long, but the holds are so bad and there are lots of moves.
Sometimes it's nice to see your routes repeated, sometimes it's nice to see them hold out, but regardless of the current status (I have heard only 2nd and 3rd hand rumors) I have no illusions about today's climbers being able to do it if they put their minds to it. By this time next year Honnold will probably have soloed it.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 29, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
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phylp, those were my thoughts exactly: could a hapless n00b such as myself give any sort of meaningful welcome? So I'm casting off the shyness to say "welcome" to Johnny. I'm a Woodson local, but perhaps not surprisingly, I have yet to complete any of Mr. Woodward's routes there!
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Jan 29, 2014 - 03:08pm PT
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| Messages 1 - 27 of total 27 in this topic |
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