2nd Free Ascent of Basketcase: a story

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 159 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 13, 2010 - 10:52am PT
More Haan dynasty treasures, please!
T H

climber
Aug 13, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
Good view of the route on here (zoom and navigate). http://www.xrez.com/divingboard_giga.html
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Aug 13, 2010 - 12:14pm PT
thank god, buddha, shiva....bump
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 23, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
is the waterfall running? bump
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jan 23, 2011 - 10:54pm PT
Whether or not the water is falling, this thread should be linked to another, about the expanded version of Peter's article that appears in Alpinist 33.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1363776/Peter-Haan-in-Alpinist-33
tom Carter

Social climber
Aug 14, 2011 - 12:24am PT
WOW!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 23, 2011 - 11:26pm PT

in yesterday's evening light
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 23, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
Nice shot Ed!

What were you doing up there? Or did you just get a telephoto lens?

You didn't happen to traverse over there from the West did you?


The lighting in that shot makes it look like there are some interesting possibilities on the wall to the left of Basket Case, without the nasty wide cracks!

You can see the upper pitches of Milestone in the background out at the very skyline of the dome - shallow left facing corners in the sun.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 24, 2011 - 12:08am PT
always looking around...
it's my old Nikkor 180mm F2.8 but on the digital SLR it's more like 270mm in the DX format sensor...
the light was very good yesterday
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Oct 24, 2011 - 12:10am PT
Real sharp edge to edge, I thought it might be a 300.

Makes me want to find a route up those face features!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Oct 24, 2011 - 02:48am PT
Awesome story!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 22, 2011 - 01:02am PT
zowie bump
Powder

Trad climber
SF Bay Area
Dec 22, 2011 - 05:57am PT
What a story!!

Thanks for sharing.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Dec 22, 2011 - 11:41am PT
bump
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jan 4, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Just wanted to get some input by putting lines on a photo. Does this look about right?

Basket Dome Info
Basket Dome Info
Credit: cultureshock

I was on top of North Dome last weekend and could see easy looking XC travel over to Basket dome.

Once over there it didn't seem so obvious how to get down to the base. Is some of it 4th class? Kevin said:
The bivi site is visible at the very top of your low res photo in the open, flat terrain above the smaller dome. From the bivi, descend to the east behind the smaller dome, then follow its base back to the west. The gully below the east wall of Basket Dome is kinda sketchy.

3D Map of Basket Dome from Bing.
3D Map of Basket Dome from Bing.
Credit: cultureshock

I'll probably be trying to make another trip this weekend to scope out the route and hopefully go to the base of the dome. Gotta capitalize on the 120 staying open!

 Luke
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
Cultureshock person, if you are seeking info on the approach to Basket Case, the FA came from Tenaya Canyon in one of the worse approaches ever performed in the western hemisphere. Subsequently, Bridwell and Klemens and than my party came from above, off the Tioga Pass road, diverting from the trail to follow the western and then the southern surfaces of the dome, staying as high as reasonable, traversing high to get to the base of the dihedral you climb, not below it.

By the way I am not sure this climb has had any other ascents; it seems a shame as it is a safe and gorgeous climb whose difficulties slowly mount through the pitches. A great classic. Should you fail to do the crux (quite likely) you can aid it easily, as our very own Donini did back in the early seventies. Whatever you do, you will not EVER want to reverse the approach.

Kevin's superb route may also be lacking attention; I don't think there has been a second ascent...and it is one of the Valley's great lines. And to think he did it when he was forty.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 4, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
Report back on this, if you would cultureshiock, I'm developing a renewed intrest in it.
bob

climber
Jan 4, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
Milestone..........ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

Bob J.
Zander

climber
Jan 4, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
Cultureshock,
Approach is line 2 in this photo, I believe.
Z

Credit: Zander
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jan 4, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
Thanks Zander. That seems to make sense for Basket Case. I was thinking that you might come in from the other side for Milestone... Not "1" in your photo but further towards Watkins.

Bob J, you have been on MileStone correct? Did you approach per "2" in Zander's photo (like for Basketcase) or something more like 1 or to the right, like I showed in my photo above.

Thanks for the note Peter:

Whatever you do, you will not EVER want to reverse the approach.

I was thinking it wouldn't be so bad to reverse the approach if you don't have any gear... I assume it's just really time consuming bushwhacking?

Basket Dome Approach
Basket Dome Approach
Credit: cultureshock

Here is an Xrez version with the left approach approximation. Seems I drew the horizontal (in yellow) part on a higher "ledge" system than Zander (now in green). Ah the power of ignorance...

 Luke
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