Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 59 of total 59 in this topic |
cellardoor
Trad climber
berkeley,ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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Hiya there!
I'm heading down to Josh over New Years for a few days with a bunk shoulder so I'm looking to get my slab on!
Do any of you lovely folk have any routes and/or boulder suggestions? Must-do climbs? Terrifying stuff? Name it all! Gotta polish my technique and get mentally stronger!
5.8-5.11 range
Thank you!!
 Alix
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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Walk On The Wild Side.
Classic Joshua Tree. Gotta at least consider it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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Don't worry, the slab will find you!
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Stick to What?
EBGBs
Basically everything at Echo.
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Raafie
Big Wall climber
Portland, OR
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:33am PT
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What happened to the shoulder?
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cellardoor
Trad climber
berkeley,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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I'm pretty sure it's strained rotator cuff and partial tear of the bicep from a fall. It's been six weeks and I can't hang on a pull-up bar, but I'm slowly progressing. Should heal...eventually...soon...hopefully :)
Slabs are a go though!
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MP
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 01:28am PT
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It's been years but I have good memories of
Loose Lady
Run For Your Life
EBGBs
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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EBGBs, but if the bunk shoulder is your right the start could mess with you.
Compassion of the Elephants
Decompensator of Lhasa (again the lower part is not pure slab.)
There's a few true slab climbs in the Hall of horrors, southwest facing, across from Jane's Addiction. They are pretty good but bring more than draws.
Then there's the rusty wall. Two really good 5.10s, one a bolted slab, one to the right a thin flake kinda like slab, and a harder sport climb left.
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MP
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 02:10am PT
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For sure, Compassion of the Elephants
Also: Chalk Up Another One
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JonA
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 18, 2013 - 06:34am PT
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Cleopatra. 5 star well protected 5.11 slab.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Dec 18, 2013 - 07:54am PT
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All of these get sun
RML 5.8/5.9
CS Special 5.10 (could be a bit burly off the ground)
Abstract Roller Disco 11a
Tin God 11a R
The Official Route of the 1984 Olympics 5.10c PG13 (potential for swinging fall at crux)
Quick Draw McGraw 5.10a
The Falcon and the Snowman 5.10c PG13
Grain Surgery 5.10b R
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 08:23am PT
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Definitely be aware of the ratings here. A lot of the suggested routes are heads up, or heads down if you blow it.
Have a great time. There is a non stop collection of slab climbing out here. Do your homework. Todd Gordon is the king of slabs around here.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Dec 18, 2013 - 08:41am PT
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I'll second Chaz' suggestion:
Walk on the Wild Side has thrills, chills and killer views. 5 star classic multi-pitch. Avoid if it's windy tho.
Love The Falcon and the Snowman, Cleopatra and Compassion of the Elephants.
Have a great trip!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 18, 2013 - 08:54am PT
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Another vote for Walk on the Wild Side. There aren't many 3 pitch climbs in JT. Maybe it goes in two with the longer ropes.
Pinched Rib is fun as well. Not really a slab, but frictiony.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Dec 18, 2013 - 09:34am PT
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^^^
The Astrodomes are pretty chilly this time of year. Besides, Such a Savage has a bit of cranking at the crux
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 18, 2013 - 09:50am PT
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Oh Yeah, Black Tide. A good 5.7 (8?) warm up. Zero approach.
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Dec 18, 2013 - 11:20am PT
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King Smear V3 in the Outback. Pure low angle blank slab-alicious!
+1 for Dazed & Confused
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Dec 18, 2013 - 11:58am PT
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papa Woolsey at 10b is a good one....................
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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walkin' on the wild side
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10b4me
Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
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Tip Toe(5.7)@Trashcan Rock
RAF(5.9)@Echo Cove
Just about anything on Echo Rock.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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Pinched Rib is almost not qualified to be called a route.
agree 100%
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
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an eye for an eye and a route for a route...10b....good !
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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"Nicole Kidman 5.8"...
A MUST do!!!...
I thought she was easier than that.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
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A walk out to the Comic Book area to do Bottle in Front of Me and Welcome to Joshua Tree is fun.
And a good time slabbing can be had at Belle Campground on Castle Rock. There's routes from easy to 5.10 on the south side, and Count Dracula and That Old Soft Shoe on the north. Bella Lugosi, also on the north side is great too, but might be a bit much of a crank with a bum shoulder. The best real slab there is Soft Shoe.
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Dec 18, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
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Tin God 5.11
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 18, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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King Smear AKA Friction Addiction is not "low angle" Pretty desperate and TALL. Funny how you could describe V3(11d) as that at JT.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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...Pretty desperate and TALL.
Yeah well if the guy has a bum shoulder he might as well toss in the ankles as well, eh?
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Dec 19, 2013 - 01:19am PT
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hey Johan,
King Smear is on a 55 degree angle slab. Thats not low angle? And the crux is the 1st 10 feet. After that its a walk in the park.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 19, 2013 - 01:52am PT
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You ain't send'n shi+. Dumbfk.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Dec 19, 2013 - 09:17am PT
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Dec 19, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
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You ain't send'n shi+. Dumbfk.
dun sendt it, need sum beta? i spell lik dis cause im a Dumbfk. Have a good day dude!
Stichter Quits
Double Dip
Sound of one shoe
WAC
loose lady
if run for your life was suggested above i'll throw santa cruz in there too then.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 19, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Dec 19, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
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Stick To What
Full Frontal Nudity
TS Special
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Dec 19, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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Swept away
Falcon and snowman (about as pure slab as slab gets)
Sidewinder (not so much slab but not to be missed!)
Edit:
Prolly freezing now but as others have said, astrodomes are awesome. Figures on a Landscape is amazing climb! many other slab routes on both domes and some with southern exposure too, although most classic ones are north facing.
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Dec 20, 2013 - 12:10am PT
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I can't believe it's a girdle...........!! it's slab ........?
only 10a
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cellardoor
Trad climber
berkeley,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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Holy moly! Havent checked the taco in a few days. Thanks for all the responses! Getting super psyched for New Years!!
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cellardoor
Trad climber
berkeley,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
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Yeah well if the guy has a bum shoulder he might as well toss in the ankles as well, eh?
I'm a female...and I take calculated risks. I'm not going to move far away from a bolt slab climbing if Im unsure of the outcome.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 20, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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Trespassers Will Be Violated is sporty, classic, rarely climbed, and will resonate in your memory for decades.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 21, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
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Sorry about the incorrect gender assumption. Something about the avatar perhaps...
Anyway have a safe and fun trip!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Dec 21, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
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Yes, "Trespassers" will keep your attention. Harlequin on Saddle Rocks also requires focus and is a couple of pitches to boot. EBGB's and Grain Surgery too. Slab-O-rama!
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Dec 21, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
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Many good ones already listed, I also like Cheap Way to Die on Saddle Rock.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Dec 21, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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All of the routes on the Bond Boulders at Loveland. And, they're on perfect varnished (non-grainy) rock to boot.
Curt
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Dimes
Social climber
Retired and thinking about a comeback?
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Dec 22, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
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Lost In The Wonderland is an obscure gem in a beautiful setting. A little run out and probably still has the original bolts but a really good 2 pitch route.
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Dec 22, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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Second pitch of Mental Physics is cool slab in a neat setting.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Dec 24, 2013 - 12:03am PT
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stitcher quits
chalk up another one
mental physics
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Dec 28, 2013 - 01:27am PT
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One of my favorite spots when it's cold, the South face of the North Astrodome has a handful of fun slab routes including Lead Us Not Into Temptation:
Sunny and usually sheltered from the wind over there (oh, and when did the routes on the North faces of the 'domes become "slabs"?)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jan 22, 2017 - 09:03pm PT
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bump
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 23, 2017 - 11:25am PT
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Bump with Photo...
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jan 23, 2017 - 12:39pm PT
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Neat pic. Pretty dang steep for a slab in my book, but for sport climbers, anything under 95 degrees is a "slab"!
BAd
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 23, 2017 - 02:29pm PT
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
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Jan 23, 2017 - 02:30pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 23, 2017 - 03:34pm PT
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Locker ...that's for sure. Kris has tried to teach me a few things about the secrets of the Slab.... one is to use your core and your whole body like a claw. I think that's why his butt is sticking out.
I tried that climb... over and over and over then some more... got shut down, Hard!!!
and you need to do 12 on gear up above that.
One of the hardest climbs in Josh I reckon.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 23, 2017 - 05:13pm PT
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Truth be told, the attempt in guys pic ended in failure. Marc Soltan took this one when I did the deed. You can kind of see that "using your body like a big four fingered hand" going on there. I got that concept from the best face climber I've had the pleasure to tie in with, Ron Carson.
Back to the topic, someone upthread mentioned "I can't believe it's a Girdle". Best be the man in the middle, and getting belayed from both ends on that one. Following the P2 traverse is terrifying, and for good reason.
One day I was walking up to do Puss n Boots. There was a guy down on the desert floor sitting in a lawn chair. I knew him as one of the better climbers around that season. But now he sat there watching the climbing. He was bandaged up like a wounded Civil War soldier, and a cast or two to boot. I asked him what happened. You guessed it, he fell following P2 of that rig.
Your right above the lip of the overhang, after you unclip the bolt which protects the leader so nicely for the crux move, you have to make said move with no more pro. Come off? A huge swing accelerating wildly, due to centrifugal force, through the air below the roof ending with a high speed crash into the corner.
It's a fall that would make a Gritstone climber proud.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 23, 2017 - 05:36pm PT
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