Califonia ice 2013-2014

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Messages 1 - 79 of total 79 in this topic
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 30, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
How are things shaping up this year? Climbed a bit(a very little bit) on Hyw 4 today. Would like to do more.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 30, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
Coldstream today
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 4, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
You guys think Widows Tears could form again by Sunday?! It will be freaking cold in the Valley!
Mr_T

Trad climber
Northern California
Dec 4, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
Is there enough flow right now in Yos or Truckee for anything to form?

Also does anyone know of anything forming up in the bay area? It's below freezing at night for the next few days. Supposedly something above Steven's Creek Reservoir formed back in 2000.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 4, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
Also does anyone know of anything forming up in the bay area?

Temps in the Bay are not below freezing, and will not be during this cold front.
It will be below freezing on top of Mt. Diablo for one night, but it is not enough to form climbable ice, I think.
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=37.88169138665095&lon=-121.91410303115845#.Up-3mCfxpkg
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Dec 4, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
Widows Tears needs volume of melt water, not just cold. Typical set up is 4ft of snow on the rim, some warm clear weather to get things flowing, then a great cold snap...Great climb if you are ready when it forms!

Peter
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Dec 5, 2013 - 12:22am PT
It is a well known fact that the best ice climbing in California is in Canada. Buy your ticket and go North ice junkies.
dgbryan

Mountain climber
Hong Kong
Dec 5, 2013 - 12:37am PT
... and the outlook for LV / June Lake through the Christmas period?
Damian
NMR

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 5, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
What's the outlook for Tahoe Ice this weekend? The current cold temps seem good...?
DaveT.

Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
Dec 5, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
Preston and I went ice climbing at June today, did two thin routes on the Roadside Wall. The ice was good, but thin. Carson Peak, Horsetail, and the other flows did not look so good at all, but Tatum looked decently climbable; at least it looked that way early this morning. Temps are rising...
bradL

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, NV
Dec 5, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
The best ice climbing tool for California is a fast car.
bradL

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, NV
Dec 5, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
The temps in Lee Vining look promising. Some days near freezing, some days in the teens.

Anybody have any recent pictures?
bergbryce

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 5, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Went for a walk up Eagle Creek canyon today (Emerald Bay area).
Nothing is in.
Great hiking though, about 6" of snow on the ground and it feels like winter!

Cascade is in pretty bad shape too according to a friend who was there this morning. What is there on the left side is climbable but has a lot of snow on it. This is a little surprising as this was in decent shape for the past two weeks.

We certainly have the temps for ice but most places just don't have the required moisture.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 6, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
http://grecx.com/ice-climbing/

This web site mentions "Crag Peak". Anyone has climbed on it and is willing to share beta or anyone know where the hell this Crag peak is? I didn't find it on summitpost...
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
Dec 6, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
The fountain in Heavenly village is shaping up nicely hahaha


bergbryce

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 6, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Where is the ice at Lake Audrain? I've never been able to find it, but I've only looked once.
DaveT.

Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
Dec 6, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
Lee vining took screws the whole way up the right falls today.
10b4me

Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
Dec 6, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
The best ice climbing in California, is in Colorado.
Snowmassguy

Trad climber
Calirado
Dec 7, 2013 - 12:34am PT
Colorado ice has been going OFF this fall. Go get some.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 7, 2013 - 02:02am PT
Ron, you heard of acual people climbing that chimney route? Sounds interesting. Wonder what they have to say about it.
DaveT.

Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
Dec 7, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
Ryan Evans

climber
Kings Beach
Dec 7, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
Crag peak would be a long day to skin all that gear out there. It has formed up the past two seasons. slog < powder skiing. No first hand reports but i hear its good.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 7, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
DaveT climbing WITHOUT TOOLS on overhanging ice!!! That's rad!!! :)

Me on the other hand internet-wanking at work, on a Saturday!!! WTF!!
Some Random Guy

climber
Dec 7, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
yeah lake audrain was in last year but short climbs and barely wi3. meh

http://goo.gl/maps/CPqlL

any news on the voodoo lounge (angora lakes)? is angora ridge road still accessible by car. be nice to drive all the way in to the resort.

http://goo.gl/maps/QVPu5
emunsing

Sport climber
Boston, MA
Dec 9, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
Anyone been out to check out Tahoe ice since the snowstorm? Eagle Creek Canyon, Cascade Falls, Lover's Leap, Lake Audrain? This weather seems perfect for ice; I'd love to get an update from the locals (at least, any locals who aren't out skiing).

Dave T, is that photo from current conditions in Lee Vining? Hope the downclimb to the tools went well...
DaveT.

Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
Dec 9, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
Yes, that was a current pic. Actually, Kia took the photo, and the climber is Preston.
DaveT.

Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
Dec 9, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
took the *tilted* photo
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 9, 2013 - 06:17pm PT

Tilting is awesome. Hope no one notices the road UP to Tioga pass is going down :/
bergbryce

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 9, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
Highway 89 (to Emerald Bay) is currently closed due to snow. Not sure when it will get back open.
It's sunny enough today to be melting the snow left on the roads and getting cold at night, so my guess is things are forming. The icicles on my house are growing at a rapid clip.

Fallen Leaf road was open until this snow, guessing it's closed as 18-30" fell across the Tahoe area on Friday night. That sounds like a lot of snow but not enough to get most of the BC poppin' nor a whole lot more terrain open at the resorts. We need at least another storm like that on top of what we have, then we're good or at least better, imho. There are some spots that have enough for earning turns but sharks are certainly lurking.

Right now the XC skiing is excellent on existing trails/fire roads, so if you come up, bring your skinny skis and get your cardio on.

Things could be better by the weekend with temps up into the low 40s with sun and with new snow there is actually material for climbs to form, something that was missing in a lot of places before this past storm. Will have to wait and see when 89 opens. When I get a chance I plan to sneak out to a couple ice bouldering spots I know of to see how things have changed the past few days.

mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Dec 9, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
Riley McDonald

climber
CA
Dec 12, 2013 - 02:43am PT
Did some mixed climbing on the watchtower in Sequoia today. Barely any ice, but it's starting to freeze up:
ruppell

climber
Dec 12, 2013 - 02:51am PT
WI3 as NEWSWORTHY?

Only on the left coast. lol Go East boys go east
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 19, 2013 - 02:07am PT
nice to hear. gotta get out there this winter. the approach is sort of long I guess eh? In CA it is hard to find a partner to climb outside of Lee Vining and not on top rope, but now I have to find someone who wants to break trail...will be a difficult road to Crag peak! lol
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
Dec 19, 2013 - 02:25am PT
^i live near there and am up for adventure. no ice tools though :(
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 19, 2013 - 02:57am PT
hey there say, mrtropy... wow, thanks for the calif ice thread for this year!! i like to learn, etc...

lots of shares, here...
thank you!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 19, 2013 - 09:50am PT
Crag peak requires a real maritime snowpack .Wet drippy stuff
Not Canada fluff which is what we have now
The route Black Abyss is what forms
Can be viewed from the summits of the Rubicon crest.
Best climbed in early march
10b4me

Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
Dec 19, 2013 - 10:18am PT

Roadside ice at June Lake, last weekend.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Dec 19, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
10b4me

Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
Dec 19, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
Nice to see that Horsetail is in shape
10b4me

Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
Dec 19, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
Thanks for the info. Looked better than that.
lzpup

Trad climber
San Diego, ca
Dec 23, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
Hello Great info thanks guys, headed up that way in 2 days, looks like it has been warm, how does the roadside look, anyone been out there past few days?
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Dec 25, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
SFyankee

Trad climber
Bay Area, now DC
Dec 25, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
Anyone ever gotten busted for climbing June lake roadside? Its on SCE property right?

Just sack up and don't worry about the LOEs?
10b4me

Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
Dec 26, 2013 - 12:31am PT
I 've never encountered any problems.
adikted

Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
Dec 26, 2013 - 10:34am PT
Coldstream was good yesterday.....christmas day....glory sticks with nobody there!! Will be checking out sunny today and will post back!!

-G
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Dec 27, 2013 - 09:15pm PT


Quote Here

Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 27, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
Nice slabs!
Mimi

climber
Dec 27, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
OMG, that's blue fat.
emunsing

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 28, 2013 - 12:49am PT
Update on some South Lake Tahoe ice climbing, as of Dec 27 2013:
Lake Audrain looks out (did not hike all the way to the cliffs, but looks blank from across the lake)

Cascade falls is in, though the ramps are a bit snowy and there are a few open water spots. The routes to climber's left are not yet in, nor is the verglas on the right.

The north-facing routes in Eagle Creek canyon have not yet come in- Kentucky Moonshine is totally nonexistent. Probably needs more snowmelt to form.

Sunny Falls in Eagle Creek is partly in, with a few lines that are secure enough to climb. The approach is not yet well-defined or packed down- it took us 3 hours to dial the approach on the way in, with snowy boulder-hopping and delicately walking over the semi-frozen creek.

Anyone know of other Tahoe ice that's in? Donner area?
harpo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Dec 31, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Any updates on cascade ice? Still there after the recent warm temps?
bergbryce

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Dec 31, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Cascade is in good shape ice wise save for being pretty picked out. It's been continuing to form new ice and there isn't any exposed water as of dec. 30.
Take a trekking pole for the hike in and out. You'll thank me.

Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jan 3, 2014 - 02:30am PT
Went up to Lee Vining today. It was really nice conditions. Anyone know what route this is? It's way up the canyon past all the other walls. Almost under the big green bridge.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jan 4, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
Pretty good conditions today in June. A little wet but good ice.
Mark Not-circlehead

climber
Martinez, CA
Jan 17, 2014 - 08:40pm PT
TFish

Don;t know the name of it, but we climbed it, and the other one to the left and farther up the canyon about two years ago. When 120 was open, it was easy to park, and walk a short distance down to them. I take it you walked ALLLLL the WAAAAY up to it?
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jan 18, 2014 - 01:04am PT
Nice! I knew it had been climbed cuz there was some janky webbing left there and its right onfront of your face when you hike up, but surprised its not well known. Yep hiked all the way up there for it. Pretty brutal but worth it. I'm thinking of riding my bike up the 120 and walking down again if its still good up there.
emunsing

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jan 22, 2014 - 12:04am PT
Went back to Cascade falls over the weekend, to find good ice and more coming in. Chatter is that Coldstream is also in, and the Voodoo Lounge near Fallen Leaf Lake may also be in- anyone have any news to share? Anyone been to eagle creek canyon recently?
Climberdude

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
Jan 22, 2014 - 01:20am PT
Anybody heard of people climbing on Rancheria Falls at Huntington Lake? I was hiking there last weekend and the ice looked fat in all places except for the very top. Will have to check it out next weekend with my ice tools.
bergbryce

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 22, 2014 - 02:01am PT
Coldstream has been good for weeks, with a super casual approach of around an hour easy hike. Take some sort of ice grippers or instep crampons for your boots, its really slick on the approach.
The road to voodoo was closed in mid December but it could be open again given the warm temps. i haven't checked there or eagle canyon primarily on account of warm sun and mountain biking.
pvalchev

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 22, 2014 - 02:10am PT
Here are a couple of pics from Coldstream on Sunday, surprisingly completely dry and chilly there considering the 55 degrees in town. Note: next weekend is the AAC trip so I would stay away...

Bryan Estelle

climber
Escondido
Jan 24, 2014 - 11:08am PT
I don't see any posts on the condition of the ice in LVC in the last couple weeks. Can somebody with recent information put up a quick post? Thanks.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jan 24, 2014 - 10:48pm PT
I rode my bike up to the Yosemite park entrance today. Lee Vining is looking thin.
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Jan 24, 2014 - 11:47pm PT
Yep the road is pretty clear, one lap with the snowplow and it'd be clear. Just a few rocks and a couple patches of snow. Caltrans is lazy and sucks.
emunsing

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Feb 3, 2014 - 01:03am PT
Cascade Falls has blown out as of February 2ns- probably due to the high volume of rain water and melt from the last storm in Tahoe. Climber's left is still doable, but the right and center of the main falls are just a waterfall. To the climber's far left, the other set of falls is now coming in, and makes for some shorter, but nice, climbing. Expect to cross open water on the approach to either fall; things may have settled down (and frozen) later in the week.

Lots of drippy snow may mean that the Eagle Creek climbs will be on their way in, though...
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
Feb 4, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
Any projections on road conditions and ice conditions at Cascade Falls on Friday the 7th?
NMR

Trad climber
Berkeley
Feb 6, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
Bump for current Tahoe conditions? What is the current weather system doing up there?
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
Feb 6, 2014 - 06:13pm PT
Another bump for current ice and road conditions at South Lake Tahoe.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
Feb 6, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
Light snow / rain at lake level.

Cascade falls was shitty yesterday. The left line was still there, but in bad shape. The middle is a waterfall (that isn't frozen).

I'm sure 89 will close after this storm comes.
Floyd Hayes

Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
Feb 6, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
Hey, thanks for the update, much appreciated! We'll cancel our trip.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
Feb 6, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
No worries. Good skiing this weekend though.
Facelyss

Mountain climber
California
Feb 6, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
The ice last weekend at Lee Vining was good. About the same as it has been all year. Chouinard's was the best ice and the center line on the Main Wall barely touched down and thin. Nothing new or all that notable, but the approach was absolutely brutal with the little bit of fresh snow. Hopefully it dumps a whole lot more this weekend so a proper boot pack can be made without so much talus scrambling.
Bryan Estelle

climber
Escondido
Feb 8, 2014 - 12:09am PT
Thanks for the updates. I will be travelling all the way from San Diego and my partner from Redding, CA.; so, we appreciate - very much - the updates!
Tfish

Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
Feb 9, 2014 - 12:10am PT
If this gets a little fatter I might have to sneak in for a quick secret so cal lap.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Feb 15, 2014 - 10:46pm PT
Recent pics of Ice on the Eastside



Lee Vining, Caveman, WI 5,


Lee Vining, Comrade Corner, WI 4


June Lake Roadside, Doug Nidever, Doug Robinson, Dave Miller
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Feb 23, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
The ice in Lee Vining is still very good, somewhat amazing given the temps on the Eastside in recent weeks.



Mark Not-circlehead

climber
Martinez, CA
Mar 5, 2014 - 05:03pm PT
Anybody know how low the snow line is on the hwy? I gotta go up to park line (don't ask, long story), and wondering how far I will be walking up a dry road before I can ski. Hoping it's below Ellery lake at least.

Anybody been to the gate/ or up the canyon in the last few days?
emunsing

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Mar 6, 2014 - 01:00am PT
Any updates on ice in Tahoe? There's been a lot of precipitation; are things fat or blown out? I'm specifically thinking Eagle Creek Canyon and Lake Audrain...
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
Mar 6, 2014 - 03:02am PT
It has been very warm in Tahoe. I haven't been up eagle creek canyon in awhile, but I drove by cascade lake today to look at the falls, and from the road it looked like they were just flowing and not frozen at all.
Bryan Estelle

climber
Escondido
Mar 8, 2014 - 10:57pm PT
As of Friday, Chouinard Falls is still in but the "Main Falls" are not at all.

Take snow shoes for the approach if possible.
Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
Mar 17, 2014 - 11:19am PT
Ice is still up there!!

We were there on Saturday (3/15). The approach had plenty of snow and packed well. We started the approach at 6:30a and the temp was 23 degrees so the track was well frozen.

I only post holed once on the way down to the truck when it was about 75 degrees....hot..

Main wall had ice in the center from top to bottom. Chouinard Falls had some "good" ice. The Tree Route and the rest to its right were bare.

Go get it!
Messages 1 - 79 of total 79 in this topic
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