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Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
Top-ropers? PFFt
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
Whoa! I think I saw you guyz on Sunday, I was posted up at Poison Oak Crack belaying and getting hassled by hikers. The hecklers were out in FULL FORCE! Nice little Sunday!!

Such hits as:

"OH HEY SPIDERMAN!" - old ass lady

"HE LOOKS LIKE HE NEEDS A LITTLE HELP" - same lady

"I LIKE EM STEEPER THAN THAT" - fat guy to wife, re: hamburger crack

LOLS ALL DAY
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
CLIMBING!





apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
Re: Jaws
Technique, not tape

Haven't we discussed this already?
Chim-Chim

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
I can see your point,
Credit: Chim-Chim
carry on Burchy
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
Burch3y, out of curiosity , how old are you ?
Joshua Johnson

Boulder climber
Boulder
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
Another reason not to go to Woodson.
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Nov 20, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
Somewhere, I am sure, there will be a Confederate flag for the lulz patrol.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
TR at Woodson? Ahahaha! "Where a fifteen foot fall could be fatal" I'm sure I once heard appropriately said.

Yep, there's that Firefly...never did get that thing...amongst many others...*sigh*

Crazy beautiful pictures....i need to get back in shape and join you guys...dang it Jim!


Did I ever meet either of you, Ryan or Jason?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
That Manuels Horror isn't straight forward....takes a bit to figure the sequence.

Oh, of you're learning crack technique, tape up for this one...

...just like Hamburger Crack, only more hamburger and more crack.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
Leading Jaws? You're right, not recommended, unless a photographer asks you to, even then, kinda silly:


illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
The crux are the rattly jams right after that cam. If I would have fallen it would have kept me from hitting the deck, although nobody plans on falling if they're third classing it. Yes, I was asked to place gear for the camera, although nothing came from that photo sesh...never saw the results.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Nov 20, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
You got that Daniel Tosh thing going Bushley. Nice to see someone doing something. Good stuff, thanks for sharing.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
The crux are the rattly jams right after that cam. If I would have fallen it would have kept me from hitting the deck, although nobody plans on falling if they're third classing it. Yes, I was asked to place gear for the camera, although nothing came from that photo sesh, never saw the results.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
yeah, this guy sorta does resemble the guy doing Jaws (wink):

splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 20, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
Off the couch.
so did he send it? off the couch, even Micronut cud get that far on SB, lol! that is just before it gets burly (only about 5.8, or so, to that point)

...I wanted to lead Robbins or something similar.
go for the on sight solo, bro (seriously)! solid hands all the way. crux is a few feet from the top. actually, crux is down climbing it solo. dude, its tradition, live up to it.

btw, great pics, etc. TFPU!!!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
crux is a few feet from the top


Technicallly, the crux is the start, off the ground, but psychologically, while solo,
the top for sure! The downclimb? Twice as hard, lol!


illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
Credit: illusiondweller

Never seen this perspective before...pretty cool!


Edit: correction... I HAVE seen this perspective before, when I was pulling a climbing slipper out of the top of the crack. I can't recall what it was there for...???
MisterE

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
Haha, I'm not sure about the Robbins solo.

Up, probably be okay.

Down...call the bambalance. I'll make sure to get video if I try the downclimb, you guys deserve a good laugh.

Dude, Baby Robbins is a cruise both up and down. I onsight soloed that thing without a thought at the WoodsonFest a few years back.

Just saying, it's pretty easy.
MisterE

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
Edit: I am talking about the one with the rock at your back.
MisterE

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
^^That one was a bit trickier, but still onsight solo, with a few grandparents, some toddlers and assorted others.
splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 21, 2013 - 12:51am PT
Yep, Robbins, not Baby Robbins.

Really no big deal to solo, and downclimbing it isn't much harder, imo.

here's a pic of Chris Lindner soloing it at 4 years old...
Chris Lindner soloing Robbins Crack, age of 4!
Chris Lindner soloing Robbins Crack, age of 4!
Credit: splitter
(not sure why this pic came out so small?)

If your gonna be spending some time on the hill, your probably gonna start 3'rd classing stuff ya got wired, or feel comfortable on anyway. Especially if you go up there alone during the week when ya might not run into someone else climbing. Robbins was one of the first things I added to that list/circuit. I didn't onsight solo it, but did solo it the second time. I guess the downclimb was an onsight since we were either rapping or lowering off it the initial time. yada, yada

Technically, the crux is the start, off the ground...
Robbins Crack? I never thought so. Maybe if ya do a sit start on it (dunno, never tried). Otherwise, I don't recall any issues with the start. Always felt as though it was one particular jam/lock about 4-6 feet or so from the top.

BTW, Illusiondweller, with all the time you spent on the hill, I would have figured that you would have danced up and down RC numerous times roped and cordless! As you suggested, downclimbing is more of a psychological problem, and generally speaking, somewhat harder technically. But, physically/technically, if its a 10a, then downclimbing it seemed no harder than a 10b, imho!

So, not sure where yer heads at Burch3y, but to onsight solo it up and down wud be a kool personal endeavor/accomplishment, imo! Not that it matters in the grand scheme of things, but, from then on ya'd be known as Burl3y Burch3y (in Woodson lore, anyway). ;)

Regardless, Woodson (and climbing in general, for that matter) is all about good times and having fun. Whether its tr'ing all day or hitting your solo circuit late in the afternoon, or whenever. And it looks like you guys were having just that, lots of fun. Kudos!

Apparently climbing hard stuff makes you get better? Or something?
Fer shur!

Woodson has it all, thin, wide, crimping, smearing, mantels, laybacks, overhangs, underclings, dynos, etc! You develope technique and get physically stronger and psychologically more competent in the process. And, most likely, after a long day on the hill you'll sleep better at night also.

I just held on to the start of SB on our way down after a day of climbing

Yep, on the way down after a long day, its a great final core body workout/pump. And it's also close to the road. Doesn't really matter how far you get on it, cuz, one thing is for sure, you'll get stronger no matter. And, I will say this, that problem (as a pure undercling/no kneelocks) does involve technique (which is subtle, but crucial, imo). That, along with pure power, is how its done. Persistence pays off. And you can then apply it to most underclings you might later encounter. Plus, you get stronger in the process. ...just sayin.

EDIT: BTW, first time I climbed (and soloed) R0bbins Crack it was in a clunky pair of Robbins boots (blue boots), then later in EB's and Fire's/sticky rubber, etc! If your solid on 5.9, most .10's, and at least occasionally successful on .11's, then ya can 3'rd RC. I did it back in '71 within the first few months climbing (total n00b)...not to smart perhaps, but never the less...! No big deal, either way. TR it a couple times, and then you'll see what I mean.

Regarding CL, over the course of a few months he top roped it, led it and then soloed it, all at the tender age of 4. I was there the day he led it. He later went on (about 5 years old) and led some .12's (Starving In Sterio, for instance). Looked like he was having fun. Or, at least I hope he was. Like I said, that's what its all about, so disregard anything I have said that would be contrary to that in relation to yerself!!!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 21, 2013 - 10:30am PT
(not sure why this pic came out so small?)

You probably copy and pasted the thumbnail instead of clicking on the photo first, then copying it.


I think I soloed Robbins first in his "blue suede shoes" as well! But like the noob we are were at one time, I didn't provision how I was going to get down. I think I looked around and waited for someone with a rope to walk by, but to no avail. I had to do what I had to do. You're confidence soars when you become an unofficial Woodson "hardman."


Here's my friend Chris making it look easy:



Jumping down at the end is totally unacceptable, lol!

splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 21, 2013 - 11:51am PT
You probably copy and pasted the thumbnail instead of clicking on the photo first, then copied.
OK, figured it out, thanks, bro!

I'll re-post it here...
Chris Lindner soloing Robbins Crack at 4 years old.
Chris Lindner soloing Robbins Crack at 4 years old.
Credit: dunno/from his 'myspace' site/doesn't give credit
Your confidence soars when you become an unofficial Woodson "hardman"
LOL!

Not sure if I ever even attained the unofficial hardman status. Flailure seemed to be just around every corner, as I recall. But flailing on stuff, particularly with a top rope, is how you improve, get stronger, "Or something?", eh?

Here's a pic of an official Woodson hardman, BVB soloing the Undertow Roof at Woodson, bitd...
BVB, American Legend, soloing the Undertow Roof at Woodson (12b).
BVB, American Legend, soloing the Undertow Roof at Woodson (12b).
Credit: Brian Bailey

GDavis - Yep, regarding soloing, its all relative. But, talk about "hairball" highballs, if ya pitch on Undertow yer burnt toast/going the distance (50-60 ft of airtime, then ya splat on a slab/boulder and then rag-doll another 30+ ft)...Yikes.

Rick Piggott, another official Woodson hardman, leading Undertow, mid 80's...
Rick Piggott leading Undertow Roof/mid 80's!
Rick Piggott leading Undertow Roof/mid 80's!
Credit: BVB
according to BVB, the undercling variation is .11d & the standard straight in OW is .12b! But dems Woodson 11d & 12b, brah! ...just sayin!!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 21, 2013 - 11:58am PT
No shame in TR'ing hairball woodson problems. NOBODY leads out there, it's TR or Solo baby. One of the coolest things I'd witnessed in climbing was a visitor from San Fran who was a pretty good, but not incredible, climber (maybe 5.10ish?) onsight solo jaws. He was gripped and went for it and blew us away. That thing is locker if you got the skillz, but he held on and fought it through and whooped and hollered on top. Ballsy, rad, etc.

My favorite way these days to climb at woodson is with a crash pad, few of the problems are TR'able but the best stuff you could/should get with a pad and a spotter (I Hear My Train, Drivin' South, Robbins/Baby, Johns, Cave escape...).

Speaking of The Cave, it has an easy escape that makes it about ~V2, if you want to get a good pump without scrambling up top or putting on a harness.


GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 21, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
I go 1-2 times a week, let me know! I'll show you my secretz!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 21, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
you should try lead climping at some point. I heard it is fun.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 21, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
NOBODY leads out there,


NOBODY?

Phd, 5.12a
Phd, 5.12a


There's a five bolt lead down the east ridge, and a half dozen others, but you're right, people don't come to Woodson to lead, and they sure don't come to solo! But you WILL if you return often enough. Hard As Nails is a cool gear lead, as is IHMT.

Burchy, if you're going to lead Robbins, run up to the stance a third of the way up, place a piece above you, and run it out to the top. nothing else is needed. Don't forget "slings and things" for the rap.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 21, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
I practice downclimbing the splitter at the gym, maybe 40 feet tall with a small roof, but it's bomber big hands. We'll see.

(pssst...he's going to do it!)
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 21, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
I think I should just hike up with my shoes, my chalkbag, and my balls.


you juggle too?
splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 21, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
Gettin after it/outta towners onsight solo a couple Wudzin classicss recently (last Spring)...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 21, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
The crux of robbins is low, there is a pod near the top that makes the down climb wayyyy easier than it might look. Deeep jams for the top 2/3.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 21, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
The crux of robbins is low

Yup...I thumb-cam down there off the ground with tight toes, as I start Babby Robbins as well.

there is a pod near the top

Edit: Standing on that "bivy ledge" rest @ 1/3 height, I use to drop a perlon slung #12 curved stopper in that pod, which you "cam" era pups have probably never touched/seeen/heard of before. For educational/practical purposes, it would BEHOOVE you to obtain one of these aforementioned pieces of 6061 ALUMINIUM and experience a textbook lesson in perfect stopper placements!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Nov 21, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
Mock soloing is the thing.
splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 21, 2013 - 06:11pm PT
The crux of Robbins is low.
wudever.

I always thought it was appropriately rated 5.9 by Robbins in the day of clunky boots. So now there's specialized crack shoes with exxxtremely sticky rubber and they call it .10a! Frankly, its difficult to distinguish a crux on it period, on the ascent. Backing off the top its those first few jams where it steepens. I do vaguely recall that lower part requiring a bit more consideration on the descent, now that I think about it, but 5.10 (maybe on the descent)? Kinda streatching it though, from what I recall, imo! As early as the advent of EB's, the rating shoulda went from a 5.9+ to a .9-, not the other way...wuddupwitdat? I climbed at Woodson into the 90's and there are some stout ratings, but RC isn't one of them, imo!

edit: Illusiondweller - have you moved back to the San Diego area from back east? just wondering!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 21, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Maybe try lead climbing after you come to the slideshow, I want to see you alive Burchy!
splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 22, 2013 - 12:33am PT
I'll show you my secretz!
no doubts. dudes got it dialed.

a couple cool Wudzin vids by the man himself. Not sure if ya posted these here on ST yet GD, or planned to do so another thread later on (since one is a recent release) so hope ya don't mind/let me know if ya want me to delete, eh? ...


... LD RIP!


edit: btw, sumbody ottah tell that 'Splitter' n00b/d00d up thread to, STFU!!! lol
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 24, 2013 - 12:26am PT
edit: Illusiondweller - have you moved back to the San Diego area from back east? just wondering!


Negative, still back in Jersey, since 2011/2012
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
Nov 26, 2013 - 07:25am PT
Hard As Nails is a cool gear lead

I thought Hard As Nails was a highball/mini solo. The slabby downclimb is much less secure than the business.
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