Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 81 of total 81 in this topic |
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 16, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
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Well we all know it is not really appreciated, but what the hell it's time. [photo[photoid=330575]id=330573]
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 16, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
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There is something really wrong with ice climbers. Twisted bunch of mother copulators.
And I really admire them. Ice was my Achille's heel and I wish that had gotten good at it. Those who are good at ice deserve the utmost respect and admiration.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
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Funny because the route above is called California Ice but it ain't in California. I would be happy to repeat this one continually for many many years.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Cold, cruel enterprise not fit for man nor beast.
Practicioners of this dark activity use tools known to be lethal......ask Trotsky.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 16, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
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Here's my kind of ice. Thousands of feet of blue alpine ice. 60-pound packs.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
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Looks sweet SLR. Where we're you.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 16, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
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^^^Denali, W. Rib
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Nov 16, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
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ice serves only one purpose in my life and that is to keep my beverage cold.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 16, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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Finished our last rock project today so I am ready for the ice:)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 16, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
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Surprised nobody has brought up the fun part of ice climbing-
Ice belaying!
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Nov 16, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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Screaming barfies?! Yes please.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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Tradman, that ice back in your neck of the woods is especially cold and cruel.....move west young man, move west!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
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Never took my sh!t for farther walks without using it than when ice climbing. The most recent instillation is three days in Bozeman getting shut down on two. But man I saw some cool scenery. ... Er I mean it sucked. At least the bears were sleeping. We'll probably ... Only saw one track.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 16, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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to get good at ice go to Canada eh!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 16, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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or go to vermont ;) Or NH
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Nov 16, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
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Downtown Juneau ice will be here soon
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
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Juneau that for sure?
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Nov 16, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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If you're asking if that's Juneau then yeah it's for sure. Took it around noon today
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
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John I figured there would be lots of ice up there already even in the low lands. They have apparently been climbing climbing ice on the sphinx in mt for over a month.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Nov 16, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
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Juneau's warmer then most of the state. It comes and goes down low here but there's always some up high. It's an unknown meca
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MisterE
climber
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Nov 16, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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Two words:
Screaming Barfies.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 16, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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The Black Dike and Fafnir have both been done multiple times this year. we are in a 3 day warm up but it looks cold again after that....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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Orgasam of the hands.
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Mark Not-circlehead
climber
Martinez, CA
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Nov 16, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
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Can't wait. Been wanking it in Cali only for the last couple years. Gonna try to go to Utah this winter for at least one trip.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 16, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
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cali ice can happen
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Aya K
Trad climber
Boulder, CO!
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Nov 16, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
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I've already been this year, few weeks ago.....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
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That's okay....a little professional help and support from your friends and you'll be just fine,
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 16, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
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c'mon Aya spill the beans!
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bergbryce
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Nov 16, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
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Lookin' to get my first sticks TOMORROW!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 16, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
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Let's see...it's that time of year, Camp Bird Road/Silverton for ice or SE Utah for wingate sandstone......honey, where did you put the sunscreen?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
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Sounds like RMNP has a lot of routes coming in this year. I saw at least 10 parties out in hyalite on Saturday. I was hoping some snow fed routes in the black hills would come on this year after our 4-5 foot dump in early October, but it has all melted. I hear Cody has also had some rarely formed classics in already this year.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 16, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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I love living in Reno except for one thing....
The Ice climbing anywhere near here here is like the rock climbing anywhere near Anchorage.
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Aya K
Trad climber
Boulder, CO!
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Nov 17, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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All Mixed Up in RMNP... was fat, easy approach w/ no snow.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 17, 2013 - 12:24am PT
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^^ STOP TEASING ME!@!!!
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Old_Duffer
Trad climber
Lake Arrowhead
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Nov 17, 2013 - 01:03am PT
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I see Whitney Ice Fall is in. Anything to climb at Lee Vining yet?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Nov 17, 2013 - 04:29am PT
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tradmanclimbs
Those are some truly rad photos
I bow to you
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Nov 17, 2013 - 04:48am PT
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ice climbing should be reserved for emergency purposes only, like if your Cessna crashes into a gully on Mt Shasta and you need to get to your grandmother's funeral,
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 17, 2013 - 08:36am PT
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Vermont last year
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Nov 17, 2013 - 08:51am PT
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Nice,Tradmanclimbs
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Nov 17, 2013 - 08:51am PT
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I'm with Sprock on this one.
Ice climbing... meh.
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Nov 17, 2013 - 09:24am PT
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Unfortunately ice climbing has taken on another meaning in Colorado.....
CROWDED and stepped out......
Many "classic" routes are routinely butchered to death by the Top Roping masses that claim to be ice climbers.....
I've been getting geared up to lead many routes in CO and start wondering why is there snow falling from the top of the route....
Oh yea that's why, Joe/Gumbie has slogged their way around to the top to set up a TR and claim to climb the ice....
So sad what has happened to ice climbing in Colorado......
One of my long time ice climbing partners went to Ouray last year and climbed in the park......
He couldn't even describe/comment on what he saw happening in the ice park, cause to him it wasn't ice climbing.....
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Nov 17, 2013 - 09:24am PT
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Huh...??? Did AMU yesterday and i was fat, but with about 6"+ of snow on the approach. Usual slogging fun up and down to get to it....More ice than I've ever seen up there.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 10:34am PT
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WY and MT seem to be the places to go in the lower 48. Tons on fat ice with few people. I have only gone to co a couple of times to ice climb for precisely the reasons mentioned above despite having two brothers living there. Would like to get back to Redstone sometime and the southwest looks very cool, but double the driving time makes it hard to not keep going back to Cody and mt.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 17, 2013 - 10:43am PT
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Cali ice can be fickle it all depends on precipitation
Drought years dont help.
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climbingcoastie
Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 17, 2013 - 10:45am PT
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Lee Vining was forming, but not enough to climb as of Monday. About an hour down the road and a 3hr approach will land you this.
Damn, didn't know about Whitney Ice fall. I wasted time in Alabama Hills when I could have been ice climbing, just my luck.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 10:49am PT
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I will say after my first time in Hyalite last week that I thought it was pretty crowded there were quite a lot of people out, but there seems to be a high concentration of routes. People were definitely getting after it. The other two areas we went to, the Spinx and Mission Creek, had zero people and tons of ice. Rarely have seen anyone in the Rosebuds, Stillwater, Clarks Fork, Big Horns, or Cooke City when I have been there.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 17, 2013 - 10:50am PT
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i coudnt resist!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 10:50am PT
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Is that Korea
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climbingcoastie
Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 17, 2013 - 10:53am PT
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A weekend at Lee Vining.
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 17, 2013 - 11:35am PT
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I definitely got spoiled learning to ice climb in New England in the early 80s; tons of routes, no crowds, and generally short approaches. I wouldn't trade my old experiences on Repentance and the Black Dike with a Chouinard alpine hammer and Forrest Lifetime axe for the modern tools and crowds of today, though.
I took those skills learned on my home frozen turf to the Continent and easily transitioned to the bigger peaks of Les Alps.
I always said that 9 of the 10 times I was sure I would die were while ice climbing. Getting my feet frostbite on Mt Washington and losing 9 toenails, dropping a tool on Cannon's Fafnir and finishing with one axe while driving bogus pins in iced up cracks with the adze, belaying off shite on Lake Willoughby, the list is long. I would say a prayer to the Creator offering to give it up if I could just get down alive, then be right back at it the following week.
I lost interest in ice years ago and did give it up for about 20 years before jumping back into it last season in NH. I'm a bit curious about the local CO ice, but any sort of crowds would be a deal breaker for me. My heart lies in the more alpine ventures now, and I'm sure I can find some of that here.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Nov 17, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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I've been climbing for twenty years and have yet to climb ice.
Seems cold and dangerous and scary.
I'll stick to skiing 5.13.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 17, 2013 - 11:42am PT
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Nov 17, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
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If you plan on climbing any of the major peaks on the planet and you dont ice climb, well.......... youre gonna die.
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steve shea
climber
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Nov 17, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
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Yup JD is on it. Pass the sunscreen. Ice climbing is nothing more than high altitude, underpaid construction work. Ifin you can pound nails you can ascend la glace. The trick is to never fall, have Popeye forearms and a leash! Leashless is bs. I like leashes and lot's o' pro. Old Lowe drive in/screw outs. You could fasten yourself to almost any icicle very fast. Good for the head. I don't know if they held but good for the head.
Breashears and I once climbed the Black Dike on Cannon without tools, well only for placing and removing pro. That was fun cause it did not seem like construction work. Heh Heh
Are people really toproping Bridalveil and Ames and the like? Colorado used to be pretty quiet. No more huh?
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Nov 17, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
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Last time I was in Lee Vining was 1985, not crowded at all. Ran into Ron Kauk, who I knew a bit from Camp 4 - climbed Main Wall, Right Flow and Chouinard Falls. Last time I was on ice was also in 1985, Sequoia NP with my friends Ron (not Kauk) and Jeff. X-C skied in, did some small routes (couple of pitches) and I led one long climb about five pitches up some gully, as I was the most experienced on ice (and I am not).
Also, 1985 was the last time I climbed a mountain (the three Mexican volcanoes - Ixta, Popo and Orizaba).
I love ice, rock more so. Ice/snow - Mt Shasta, Mt St Helens before it blew, Mount Olympus (Olympic NP), Mt Shuksan (Price Glacier), V-Notch, U-Notch, Dana Glacier (Tuolumne) unroped (easy peasy), still have Rainer and Hood on my tick list. And the Bugaboos, and Chamonix and Alaska and…
… the list just seems to be getting longer and I am getting shorter.
I also understand that there is some good ice in the June Lake area. Conditions in Ireland are not always "right" but on Lugnaquilla in the Wicklow Mountains, there can be, at times some good ice climbing in North Prison (what a name). I was suppose to go there several years back when conditions were superb, but Jennie's illness prevented such a trip (we were living in Dalkey at the time).
That same winter I was due to go to Glen Coe and Ben Nevis, but again… Jen was shortly out of hospital.
Sigh, at least I have saved my knuckles from taking a beating.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Nov 17, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 17, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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The last ice climb i actually enjoyed was the Diamond Couilor on Mt. Kenya.in 2005....interesting mixed climbing off the deck followed by a pleasant romp up a beautiful peak.
The last rock climb i enjoyed was three days ago to be followed by one tomorrow.
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Nov 17, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Or you could try So.Il.[photoid=330741]
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nov 17, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
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Steve. leashes are a PINTA. once you get over them it feels a lot less like construction work.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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I personally like the changing nature of ice. It is really never the same climb twice. My friend Dawn Glanc always told me she would rather have a warm day of ice climbing than a cold day of rock climbing.
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de La Playa
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Nov 17, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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Don't get tooled.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 18, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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Old skool stylin'...
At least he is properly attired.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Nov 18, 2013 - 06:13am PT
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Kalimon nice photo of stairway. Thanks for the memories
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Get cold already. Gees.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Dec 13, 2016 - 05:05pm PT
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Climbing partnerships form wonderful bonds. Celebrating summits, commiserating in an unfortunate retreat, offering encouragement during difficult trials…Yada yada, it’s all the things that make climbing unique. BUT, there is one event, where emotions are so diametrically opposed, it is a wonder there aren’t more partners murdered.
Illustrated here by these chaps:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 13, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
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Oh god that was funny, but I'm forbidden to finish it!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Dec 13, 2016 - 06:15pm PT
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for the most I dislike the cyborg climbing style, but damn that Interstellar Spice!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Dec 13, 2016 - 06:25pm PT
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I'm laughing at myself with that clip - I've been on both sides.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2016 - 10:34am PT
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Maybe if he would not have taken the time to but that weird gray mesh and the orange screw cap back on the screw his hands would not have gotten so cold. Always have to chuckle a little when I see that on people's harness. They are kind of hard to put in that way.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 14, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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This might be in in the next few days
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 14, 2016 - 06:04pm PT
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where is that last pic?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 15, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
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near Lytton
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Dec 15, 2016 - 02:23pm PT
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lytton what?
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 15, 2016 - 03:49pm PT
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^^^ Google-shaming
people still do this in 2016?
ice is dope! and where there's dope there's hope
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Dec 15, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
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In SoCal, ice is.... well where you find it. Sometimes you get lucky! This was about an hour's drive from my place in Arcadia. With a bit of hiking as well.
TY
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Dec 15, 2016 - 06:05pm PT
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TY, Hey this is an ice depreciation thread - not an appreciation thread!
That's a sweet little smear there. Looks like it was fun.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 18, 2016 - 02:15am PT
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hey there say, ... bump....
:)
hope someone adds on... :)
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| Messages 1 - 81 of total 81 in this topic |
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