Ice climbing depreciation thread.

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mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 16, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
Well we all know it is not really appreciated, but what the hell it's time. [photo[photo
California Ice
California Ice
Credit: mike m
id=330575]id=330573]
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
U.N. Ambassador, Crackistan
Nov 16, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
Unless you live in Truckee or Mammoth, or are content to travel 300 miles for a pitch of mediocre ice or some 60 degeree gully, ice climbing in California is a complete waste of time. Oh ok you can repeat the same ice climbs year after year... maybe. Which is cool, for training for the great ranges. But if all you climb is California ice...

LOLZ. Conquistador of the useless.

DMT
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Nov 16, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
There is something really wrong with ice climbers. Twisted bunch of mother copulators.

And I really admire them. Ice was my Achille's heel and I wish that had gotten good at it. Those who are good at ice deserve the utmost respect and admiration.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
Funny because the route above is called California Ice but it ain't in California. I would be happy to repeat this one continually for many many years.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 16, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
Cold, cruel enterprise not fit for man nor beast.

Practicioners of this dark activity use tools known to be lethal......ask Trotsky.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Nov 16, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
Here's my kind of ice. Thousands of feet of blue alpine ice. 60-pound packs.

West Rib
West Rib
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Looks sweet SLR. Where we're you.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Nov 16, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
^^^Denali, W. Rib
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Nov 16, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
ice serves only one purpose in my life and that is to keep my beverage cold.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Nov 16, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
Finished our last rock project today so I am ready for the ice:)
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Nov 16, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
I'm a WARM weather climber any more.
Ice Climbing is TOOOOOO Cold!!!!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 16, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
Surprised nobody has brought up the fun part of ice climbing-
Ice belaying!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Nov 16, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
20' above an ice screw on a vertical pillar with ice water running down your sleeves, your hands frozen clubs....ahhhhh, so good !
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
Nov 16, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Screaming barfies?! Yes please.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 16, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Tradman, that ice back in your neck of the woods is especially cold and cruel.....move west young man, move west!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
Never took my sh!t for farther walks without using it than when ice climbing. The most recent instillation is three days in Bozeman getting shut down on two. But man I saw some cool scenery. ... Er I mean it sucked. At least the bears were sleeping. We'll probably ... Only saw one track.
Credit: mike m
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 16, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
lacy gibbet
lacy gibbet
Credit: Paul Teare
to get good at ice go to Canada eh!
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Nov 16, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
or go to vermont ;)
Credit: tradmanclimbs
NKGphoto.com(C)2007
NKGphoto.com(C)2007
Credit: tradmanclimbs
Wild steep ice on P3. Pleasuer climbing after the scarefest lower down...
Wild steep ice on P3. Pleasuer climbing after the scarefest lower down :)
Photo by Isa Oehry
Credit: tradmanclimbs
Or NH
Eric marshal P2 Black Dike Cannon NH
Eric marshal P2 Black Dike Cannon NH
Credit: tradmanclimbs
Fafnir 12-26-11
Fafnir 12-26-11
Credit: tradmanclimbs
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Nov 16, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
Credit: johnkelley

Downtown Juneau ice will be here soon
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 16, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
Juneau that for sure?
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Nov 16, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
If you're asking if that's Juneau then yeah it's for sure. Took it around noon today
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
John I figured there would be lots of ice up there already even in the low lands. They have apparently been climbing climbing ice on the sphinx in mt for over a month.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Nov 16, 2013 - 09:19pm PT
Juneau's warmer then most of the state. It comes and goes down low here but there's always some up high. It's an unknown meca
MisterE

climber
Nov 16, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Two words:

Screaming Barfies.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Nov 16, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
The Black Dike and Fafnir have both been done multiple times this year. we are in a 3 day warm up but it looks cold again after that....
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 16, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
Orgasam of the hands.
Mark Not-circlehead

climber
Martinez, CA
Nov 16, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
Can't wait. Been wanking it in Cali only for the last couple years. Gonna try to go to Utah this winter for at least one trip.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 16, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
widows tears and the silver strand on the right.
widows tears and the silver strand on the right.
Credit: Stewart Johnson
cali ice can happen
Aya K

Trad climber
Boulder, CO!
Nov 16, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
I've already been this year, few weeks ago.....
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 16, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
That's okay....a little professional help and support from your friends and you'll be just fine,
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 16, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
c'mon Aya spill the beans!
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
Nov 16, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
Ice or rock?

Hmm...

Credit: moosedrool
bergbryce

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 16, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
Lookin' to get my first sticks TOMORROW!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 16, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
Let's see...it's that time of year, Camp Bird Road/Silverton for ice or SE Utah for wingate sandstone......honey, where did you put the sunscreen?
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
U.N. Ambassador, Crackistan
Nov 16, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Right on Stewart.

Cheers
DMT
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
Sounds like RMNP has a lot of routes coming in this year. I saw at least 10 parties out in hyalite on Saturday. I was hoping some snow fed routes in the black hills would come on this year after our 4-5 foot dump in early October, but it has all melted. I hear Cody has also had some rarely formed classics in already this year.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 16, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
I love living in Reno except for one thing....

The Ice climbing anywhere near here here is like the rock climbing anywhere near Anchorage.
Aya K

Trad climber
Boulder, CO!
Nov 17, 2013 - 12:21am PT
All Mixed Up in RMNP... was fat, easy approach w/ no snow.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Nov 17, 2013 - 12:24am PT
^^ STOP TEASING ME!@!!!
Old_Duffer

Trad climber
Lake Arrowhead
Nov 17, 2013 - 01:03am PT
I see Whitney Ice Fall is in. Anything to climb at Lee Vining yet?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Nov 17, 2013 - 04:29am PT
tradmanclimbs
Those are some truly rad photos
I bow to you
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 17, 2013 - 04:48am PT
ice climbing should be reserved for emergency purposes only, like if your Cessna crashes into a gully on Mt Shasta and you need to get to your grandmother's funeral,
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Nov 17, 2013 - 08:36am PT
Vermont last year
Isabella following P1 of Blind Fate WI4 Smugglers Notch VT 2-2-13
Isabella following P1 of Blind Fate WI4 Smugglers Notch VT 2-2-13
Credit: tradmanclimbs
wilbeer

Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
Nov 17, 2013 - 08:51am PT
Nice,Tradmanclimbs
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 17, 2013 - 08:51am PT
I'm with Sprock on this one.

Ice climbing... meh.
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
Nov 17, 2013 - 09:24am PT
Unfortunately ice climbing has taken on another meaning in Colorado.....

CROWDED and stepped out......

Many "classic" routes are routinely butchered to death by the Top Roping masses that claim to be ice climbers.....

I've been getting geared up to lead many routes in CO and start wondering why is there snow falling from the top of the route....

Oh yea that's why, Joe/Gumbie has slogged their way around to the top to set up a TR and claim to climb the ice....

So sad what has happened to ice climbing in Colorado......

One of my long time ice climbing partners went to Ouray last year and climbed in the park......

He couldn't even describe/comment on what he saw happening in the ice park, cause to him it wasn't ice climbing.....





Gagner

climber
Boulder
Nov 17, 2013 - 09:24am PT
Huh...??? Did AMU yesterday and i was fat, but with about 6"+ of snow on the approach. Usual slogging fun up and down to get to it....More ice than I've ever seen up there.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 10:34am PT
WY and MT seem to be the places to go in the lower 48. Tons on fat ice with few people. I have only gone to co a couple of times to ice climb for precisely the reasons mentioned above despite having two brothers living there. Would like to get back to Redstone sometime and the southwest looks very cool, but double the driving time makes it hard to not keep going back to Cody and mt.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 17, 2013 - 10:43am PT
groovy drool
groovy drool
Credit: Stewart Johnson
Cali ice can be fickle it all depends on precipitation
Drought years dont help.
climbingcoastie

Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
Nov 17, 2013 - 10:45am PT
Lee Vining was forming, but not enough to climb as of Monday. About an hour down the road and a 3hr approach will land you this.

Credit: climbingcoastie

Damn, didn't know about Whitney Ice fall. I wasted time in Alabama Hills when I could have been ice climbing, just my luck.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 10:49am PT
I will say after my first time in Hyalite last week that I thought it was pretty crowded there were quite a lot of people out, but there seems to be a high concentration of routes. People were definitely getting after it. The other two areas we went to, the Spinx and Mission Creek, had zero people and tons of ice. Rarely have seen anyone in the Rosebuds, Stillwater, Clarks Fork, Big Horns, or Cooke City when I have been there.
Credit: mike m
Credit: mike m
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 17, 2013 - 10:50am PT
Credit: Stewart Johnson
i coudnt resist!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 10:50am PT
Is that Korea
climbingcoastie

Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
Nov 17, 2013 - 10:53am PT
A weekend at Lee Vining.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
U.N. Ambassador, Crackistan
Nov 17, 2013 - 10:57am PT
That right there is the Los Angeles Ice Climbing Gym. They run a train up the 395 from Hollywood Station.

LOLZ.

DMT
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 17, 2013 - 11:01am PT
Cali ice can be the best on the planet.
Cali ice can be the best on the planet.
Credit: Stewart Johnson
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Nov 17, 2013 - 11:10am PT
The key to Lee Vining is....go mid-week.....stay on the steeps....

Flanders in LV Canyon
Flanders in LV Canyon
Credit: Cragman
Edge

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Nov 17, 2013 - 11:35am PT
I definitely got spoiled learning to ice climb in New England in the early 80s; tons of routes, no crowds, and generally short approaches. I wouldn't trade my old experiences on Repentance and the Black Dike with a Chouinard alpine hammer and Forrest Lifetime axe for the modern tools and crowds of today, though.

Repentance, Cathedral Ledge
Repentance, Cathedral Ledge
Credit: Edge

I took those skills learned on my home frozen turf to the Continent and easily transitioned to the bigger peaks of Les Alps.

Frendo Spur, Auguille du Midi, Chamonix
Frendo Spur, Auguille du Midi, Chamonix
Credit: Edge

High on the Midi
High on the Midi
Credit: Edge

Summit ice field on the N Face of Les Courtes, Cham.
Summit ice field on the N Face of Les Courtes, Cham.
Credit: Edge

I always said that 9 of the 10 times I was sure I would die were while ice climbing. Getting my feet frostbite on Mt Washington and losing 9 toenails, dropping a tool on Cannon's Fafnir and finishing with one axe while driving bogus pins in iced up cracks with the adze, belaying off shite on Lake Willoughby, the list is long. I would say a prayer to the Creator offering to give it up if I could just get down alive, then be right back at it the following week.

I lost interest in ice years ago and did give it up for about 20 years before jumping back into it last season in NH. I'm a bit curious about the local CO ice, but any sort of crowds would be a deal breaker for me. My heart lies in the more alpine ventures now, and I'm sure I can find some of that here.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Nov 17, 2013 - 11:37am PT
I've been climbing for twenty years and have yet to climb ice.

Seems cold and dangerous and scary.

I'll stick to skiing 5.13.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 17, 2013 - 11:42am PT
Credit: Kalimon
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Nov 17, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
south face of Aconcagua.
south face of Aconcagua.
Credit: Stewart Johnson
If you plan on climbing any of the major peaks on the planet and you dont ice climb, well.......... youre gonna die.
steve shea

climber
Nov 17, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
Yup JD is on it. Pass the sunscreen. Ice climbing is nothing more than high altitude, underpaid construction work. Ifin you can pound nails you can ascend la glace. The trick is to never fall, have Popeye forearms and a leash! Leashless is bs. I like leashes and lot's o' pro. Old Lowe drive in/screw outs. You could fasten yourself to almost any icicle very fast. Good for the head. I don't know if they held but good for the head.

Breashears and I once climbed the Black Dike on Cannon without tools, well only for placing and removing pro. That was fun cause it did not seem like construction work. Heh Heh

Are people really toproping Bridalveil and Ames and the like? Colorado used to be pretty quiet. No more huh?
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Nov 17, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
Last time I was in Lee Vining was 1985, not crowded at all. Ran into Ron Kauk, who I knew a bit from Camp 4 - climbed Main Wall, Right Flow and Chouinard Falls. Last time I was on ice was also in 1985, Sequoia NP with my friends Ron (not Kauk) and Jeff. X-C skied in, did some small routes (couple of pitches) and I led one long climb about five pitches up some gully, as I was the most experienced on ice (and I am not).

Also, 1985 was the last time I climbed a mountain (the three Mexican volcanoes - Ixta, Popo and Orizaba).

I love ice, rock more so. Ice/snow - Mt Shasta, Mt St Helens before it blew, Mount Olympus (Olympic NP), Mt Shuksan (Price Glacier), V-Notch, U-Notch, Dana Glacier (Tuolumne) unroped (easy peasy), still have Rainer and Hood on my tick list. And the Bugaboos, and Chamonix and Alaska and…

… the list just seems to be getting longer and I am getting shorter.

I also understand that there is some good ice in the June Lake area. Conditions in Ireland are not always "right" but on Lugnaquilla in the Wicklow Mountains, there can be, at times some good ice climbing in North Prison (what a name). I was suppose to go there several years back when conditions were superb, but Jennie's illness prevented such a trip (we were living in Dalkey at the time).

That same winter I was due to go to Glen Coe and Ben Nevis, but again… Jen was shortly out of hospital.

Sigh, at least I have saved my knuckles from taking a beating.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 17, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
Credit: Kalimon
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 17, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
The last ice climb i actually enjoyed was the Diamond Couilor on Mt. Kenya.in 2005....interesting mixed climbing off the deck followed by a pleasant romp up a beautiful peak.
The last rock climb i enjoyed was three days ago to be followed by one tomorrow.
jopay

climber
so.il
Nov 17, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Credit: jopay
Or you could try So.Il.[photo
Credit: jopay
id=330741]
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Nov 17, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
Steve. leashes are a PINTA. once you get over them it feels a lot less like construction work.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
I personally like the changing nature of ice. It is really never the same climb twice. My friend Dawn Glanc always told me she would rather have a warm day of ice climbing than a cold day of rock climbing.
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujo de La Playa
Nov 17, 2013 - 11:46pm PT




Don't get tooled.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 18, 2013 - 12:41am PT
Old skool stylin'...

Credit: Reilly

At least he is properly attired.
johnkelley

climber
Anchorage Alaska
Nov 18, 2013 - 06:13am PT
Kalimon nice photo of stairway. Thanks for the memories
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