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Aaron Stireman
Gym climber
Siege tactics
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 15, 2013 - 02:57am PT
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Like the title says, has anyone used either of these devices yet for TR soloing? Theoretically it could let you downclimb a bit without the device locking up...an obvious advantage over traditional compound pulleys. Anyone tried it yet?
http://vimeo.com/m/78184638
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Mark Sensenbach
climber
CA
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Nov 15, 2013 - 06:26am PT
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The guy in the video with red jumpsuit has got some style.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Nov 15, 2013 - 06:36am PT
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Heavy (if you care), expensive and you canīt rest on the rope, otherwise itīs probably o.k.
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drapnea
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Nov 15, 2013 - 11:08am PT
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^ Just like the silent partner, which I love despite being heavy, expensive, bulky, and not being able to rest on the rope unless you purposely lock it up
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Jul 28, 2014 - 05:48am PT
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As far as I have understood, it also mimicked the Silent Partner mechanism, something like twenty years later :)
It looks just perfect for the purpose of top-roping.
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overwatch
climber
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Jul 28, 2014 - 11:17am PT
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Although definitely pricey for something you cant lead with the thing looks really good for toprope and industrial applications. I learned to downclimb or try to anyway, everything I climb up when toproping. It improves footwork and overall ability and confidence. This is problematic with all the other devices. Looks like this one was designed for it.
I rope solo a lot and also work in the rigging industry so I will be getting the asap lock for sure. Thanks for the tip.
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overwatch
climber
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Jul 31, 2014 - 12:02pm PT
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I laid hands on the asap lock and it has a funky screw mechanism that has to be utilized to open the thing. Seemed to be a real pita. Maybe the standard asap would be good for tr solo if you want to down climb as per my previous post but not for the money they want.
I will save down climbing practice for when I have a partner. I did plenty of it when I was learning and I feel it made me a much better climber.
Posting a lot today as I sit waiting for hours as the used car I just bought gets repaired. At least they are fixing it.
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youri
climber
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Jan 24, 2015 - 06:19am PT
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I used the first generation of the ASAP on a vertical wall with no slack. Did a couple of falls. Then the unit was faulty probably broken by one of the falls. I conclude it is built for very few falls. Not strong enough for any abuse... But maybe the new generation has a stronger built?
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overwatch
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 02:55pm PT
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I purchased a Petzl ASAP for the specific purpose of top roping rock climbs so that I could climb down as well as up. I know, not the intended use. I did some research and saw that others had tried it with the usual varied opinions. There is a higher impact close to the anchor as in any fixed line top rope and some claimed it fell apart with repeated falls while others said it was fine. Petzl rates it for use with and without a screamer on the device and they also suggest screamers at the anchor end of the rope. I am trying to keep this short but rest assured I read the manual carefully.
I decided to try one and I tested it off a tree branch with a crash pad just like I did when I first got my silent partner. I used no end of line screamers or screamer on the device and an old dynamic rope. Basically a worst case scenario, free hanging fall, close to the anchor, no screamers. Can't replace screamers every time I come off now can I? I had to know because I wanted to use it on stuff that I could barely down climb and would probably be falling off of.
I was pretty much at the end at the anchor standing on the tree branch but not that far off the ground, maybe five feet. I jumped. WHAM! F u c k! I had dropped a foot or so and then it locked like a vault slamming shut. I stood up, unlocked the thing, kind of scratching my head and rubbing my guts. I was not anxious for a repeat but talked myself into it anyway. The outcome of the second test?
Petzl ASAP for sale, 175$. That is about 50$ off and it is brand new. I am sure this thing is great for its intended purpose in industrial applications with load limiters in the system but it won't work for my needs. Nice idea though. Anybody else with experience on this device? I know Mr. Hudon used one to climb up and down easy stuff, if you are around, did you fall on the thing at all?
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couchmaster
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 03:41pm PT
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I have the KONG Back-up Fall Arrest which I pair with a Petzl Microtrax ascender for toproping. It has the ability to allow you to be protected while downclimbing if you first flip a switch that seems to me to make it more jingus (Dingus?). I lash them together like that pic someone posted of Kauk with the 2 Mini Trax. 1 off the chest harness one off the climbing harness. Note, with this device, it is critical that you utilize the paired steel locker if you want it to work (oh you will want it to work too).
No complaints, but I don't have the stones to flip the switch and also take the micro trax off to downclimb.
More info here: http://www.amazon.com/US-Rigging-KNG-802-Back-up-Arrest/dp/B00NION6EC/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1453160247&sr=8-2&keywords=kong+fall+arrester
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overwatch
climber
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Jan 18, 2016 - 03:53pm PT
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Thanks for the reply. Interesting looking device. Have you test fallen the down climb mode? The description talks about a semi-dynamic catch which is, I think, the same problem with the ASAP, the semi-dynamic catch sucks near the anchor.
I am just going to stick with the SP with knots or a grigri backup on a separate strand. If not down climbing I use a mini with a grigri.
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couchmaster
climber
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Jan 19, 2016 - 01:51pm PT
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No I don't have the courage to try it:-) The Back-up was made for industrial fall backup applications for use clipped behind you on an industrial harness. I have it rigged like a climber would, in front, off a climbing harness. I'm confident that the up position will catch a fall, it has repeatedly as I have it set so that the Kong catches before the Petzl. I think the Back-up is easier on the rope than the trax. Flipping the switch down so that you could down climb would also involve taking off my Microtrax, which I don't want to do till I'm rapping off the top.
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