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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 7, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
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WARNING: This is long with lots of blabbering.. read at your own risk of sleepiness!!!
For anyone who can/is willing to provide some info/beta, I have a few questions at the end..
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The climb in Question: Cat's Squirrel 5.12a/c, Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Here is my annotated topo of the climb, and gear I used to lead it on aid (on aid it goes at A1 or C2) and pre-place the gear for leading it free.
I think it was early this season (maybe late last season) I was doing a crag day at Pat and Jack Pinnacle, and I wandered upon this very interesting looking climb, which was not described in the latest ST guide, but did have a line, and a couple ratings remarks that it goes at 12a on the first pitch, and 12c on the second pitch.
looking at it from the ground, its a solid 20-25 feet before you can get a normal "clean" placement. However there were two small LA scars in the seam about 15 feet up where I thought I might get a ball nut to go (did not have any of my big wall pro with me at that time)....so I figured well, that at the absolute top of my personal limit for hard climbing off the deck with no real pro, but lets see if it will go, and I will take a stab at it.... I got up to the scars without any drama, but the first of the two crux's starts right there.. and the short version is that I could not get even the smallest ball nut to go, so I backed off, down-climbed, and figured I would save it for another day....
Fast forward to Tuesday this week, its pretty chilly in the Valley so I find myself back at Pat and Jack's... I had mentioned my "chicken out" first attempt at this climb to my friends I was climbing with that day, and they ultimately "convinced" me I should have another go... due to our packing/unpacking laziness, we just so happened to also have big wall gear in our haul bags we had slogged up for cragging... So I walked up to it and starting studying it again... at first I thought I would just aid up to the first clean placement using whatever hook and beak shenanigans I could, then pre-place just the first piece, and lead it free... Once I started up it on aid and could see how blank much of the middle portion of the route is, (which is definitely the proper crux of the first pitch) I decided to be a bit more conservative and aid the rest of it, put up a TR, work it a bit on TR, then lead it free on all the pre-placed gear...
So I had my buddy David who is a very strong sport climber (I am in process of converting him to a crack-head ;-) have the first TR go at it. He had a tough go at the first crux, but he eventually unlocked it, and made his way to the second crux about half way up.. where unfortunately he got shutdown... which makes me very nervous.. because he is a stronger climber than I am... (but that said, I do have more crack juju than him)... so eventually lowers off and relinquishes the rope to me...
Being that I am already an full bird crack-head + slab/offwidth/fingers junkie, I was able to unlock the lower crux reasonably quick, and off I head up to the second crux... here I spent quite a while trying to decrypt the craziness which is the crux of the first pitch... and I was shutdown.. damn!!.. so I pulled past it.. and climbed the top section.. which was pretty easy and went on the first attempt... while being lowered off in shame that I could not do the crux, I got pissed at myself, and asked my belayer to stop at the crux again, so I could flail some more in a desperate attempt to decrypt the sequence and not walk away a second time defeated from this climb....
This pic makes me feel like a real wuuuusss given this guys bad ass outfit, and leading it in a swami!!! ;-)
Somehow I gathered my inner crack ninja, and within just a few minutes I had unlocked and was able to consistently repeat the crux sequence... YEA... So at that point I felt like I wanted to lower back to the ground, have a last go on TR to link all of it together for some good mental vibes before I led it on the pre placed gear...
It was already getting pretty late in the day when we started this whole thing... I was so drawn in to the business of unlocking the really cool (and very hard/technical for 12a) first pitch of this climb, I didn't realize that darkness was racing up on us....
also creeping into the back of my mind was the fact that I had never taken a whipper on beaks before... when I was leading it on aid, I planned to just hand place them, but ultimately I certainly gave them a few chicken taps with the hammer... ;-)
So I rest a minute after the decryption flail fest.. and start back up on TR to try to link it all together.. I was getting tired by this point, and it got dark just as I was about to start... so I put on the headlamp and proceeded about the business.... and I was able to do a good job linking it all tougher... however it had gotten dark, and I was still stewing internally about whipping on a beak... so the free lead is going to have to wait for another day...
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For me (and my friends) this was a pretty unusual climb.. I would say the on sight grade feels like 13a.. very VERY technical climb..... but once you wire the moves, it feels like really hard 12a/b (albeit there are only a few moves of that difficulty).....
I have a few questions I am hopping someone on the taco stand can help with....
1) Who has whipped on beaks?? what size(s) ?? hand placed?? did you feel ok about it?? would you risk a repeat beak whipper??
2) Has anyone led it free ground up in recent years?? what did you do for pro??? (didn't seem like it has seen any action in many years)
3) Does anyone have climbing/pro beta on the second 12c pitch?? it appeared to actually be bolted now?? We ran out of daylight to start working on that pitch..
Thanks for any info you may be able to share... I have no idea why.. but I am pretty obsessed with this route.. and can't wait to lead it and get it clean....
Dustin
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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dig it!
cool photo of Dimitri too
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Paging Maysho.......
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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I led it on nuts and cams from the ground a couple of falls ago. it is thin and technical but takes great small nuts and bomber cams up higher. Just remember, it's a slab, you can stand on your feet!
second pitch has bolts, yes.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Cool post.
Proud FA from one of the true badasses. Considering that it was 1980, it's a good bet that he did it ground up, and without the array of cams we have today. Would have been nice to witness. I'd like to see the Gaines taken from the shot you posted.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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This climb is in the regular guidebook, Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs, Don Reid, 1994.
p1 Cat's Squirrel 5.12a
extended p1 Cat's Squirrel Continuation 5.12b
[Edit:] The FA info for the extension (as one pitch) is:
Mike Hatchett, Ken Ariza, Dimitri Barton, 1989.
You should never use a hammer on a free climb to place gear, unless the gear list in the guidebook suggests using it.
If you don't feel comfortable using clean gear to protect an existing clean climb, please do a different climb.
There are over 3000 of them in the Valley, after all.
There are many well protected hard climbs, such as Tips (not in the supertopo guide, but is in the 1982 and current guides).
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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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Katie - I assume you just ran it to that first box/pod for your first piece?
Also STRONG work!! Very Awesome and stiff route in the cruxes
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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I started to place some nuts low down but realized they would be in the way of my fingers so I gunned it for the rest.
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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
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Clint,
I agree! But I didn't consider hand placing beaks as hammering.. That said I am guilty of a few chicken taps on them... But I used existing LA pin scars for the beaks..
Dustin
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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But I didn't consider hand placing beaks as hammering.. Neither would I, or anyone that I know of.
That said I am guilty of a few chicken taps on them... Yes, this is the hammering part.
I feel it's best to draw the "clean" line at any hammering (and I think you probably agree).
Instead of a line between "tapping" on beaks and hitting "harder", or placing a piton with a hammer.
I'm glad you are honest about what you did, but I hope you don't go back there with the hammer again.
P.S. If you really want to lead it free on beaks, there are other tricks for doing this clean. Learn about how (a very few) people have led free climbs using hooks for pro. They use an additional rope on each hook to tension it down to an anchor on the ground. This would help prevent it from lifting out in a fall. It's still a sketchy "don't dare fall" prospect, though, so you may want to do a better protected climb instead.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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If by "chicken taps," you mean with a rubber chicken, then all's good in paradise.
BTW, Cat Squirrel, it's the name of a Tull tune ...
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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
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Clint,
Agreed! I am going back for sure, but will not bring a hammer..
On that climb it's all good after the off the deck runout.. Plus I worked that first crux.. So I think I will just bring a bouldering pad and run it to the first rest...
That climb is right at my current "on gear" limit.. So I let my enthusiasm for climbing it skew my judgement on smacking the beaks a few times.. I apologize for that and will not repeat that offense..
Thanks
Dustin
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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
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I have not sen the other guides into yet.. But the minimal info in ST shows a bolt protecting the bottom.. Must have been chopped??
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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I onsighted this years ago - maybe 1989 (1st pitch only). I recall the slabby boulder problem slab start and then thin crack to the anchor with maybe a big pod about 2/3rds up. Led it clean with small RPs, small stoppers, and cams. Keep on it, you'll get it!
Greg
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Cool post. Love the photo of Dimitri. My opinion is don't hammer on an existing free climb, at all, but whatevs. Good luck on the sharp end man.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I lead it a couple years ago and had a friend do it earlier this year. Maybe it was late last year. Anyway, you have to pull the mantle like move into the pod before you get the first piece. There is some psychological pro down below it, but it's not worth the effort expended to make it appear like it might stick.
The rest of the route the gear seems fairly obvious and solid. Lots of small offset nuts.
The start is definitely the riff raff sifter. This time of year you can pile the leaves high ;)
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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I might have done the 2nd ascent of this rig with Lynn Hill just after Bill and Augie bagged the FA. I remember a crunchy boulder problem in a kind of dish down low, then a reachy thin move up higher off solid wires. Lynn was fully extended on the reach down low but followed it with ease. The second pitch wasn't yet established. I remember thinking it was a kind of one-move wonder. Sherrie's Crack to the left, and the Tube to the right are 3 star routes IMO.
JL
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msiddens
Trad climber
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always looked up at that route with admiration. Nice stuff.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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I have not sen the other guides into yet.. But the minimal info in ST shows a bolt protecting the bottom.. Must have been chopped?? The 1987 and 1994 guides show no bolts or fixed pins on p1.
The photo of Dimitri leading p1 looks like he does not have his rope clipped in to anything before the pod.
The 1994 guide shows 2 protection bolts on p2.
Don't trust the ST topo for this particular climb - it looks like a rough draft slipped in.
It does not even show the bolts on p2, so I don't think it's an attempt to be accurate for this climb.
If they had a topo they were finished with, it would have a route name, etc.
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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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I thought it was a 2 section wonder.. Separated by easy thin crack climbing.. Section 1 is gaining that first pod/rest/gear... Second and more powerful is the tips lb with bad slab feet in the middle... With a huge reach at the end to gain the finger lock.. Then it was cruiser and fun to the anchor
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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"P.S. If you really want to lead it free on beaks, there are other tricks for doing this clean. Learn about how (a very few) people have led free climbs using hooks for pro. They use an additional rope on each hook to tension it down to an anchor on the ground. "
CT represent! why didn't this catch on????
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WBraun
climber
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I just free soloed Cherries crack carrying a rope and then walking over to rap down to the anchors and set up a top rope on it.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Did Cats Squirrel in the '80's. As Katie mentioned it seemed to protect pretty well with small stoppers/RP's, but you had to choose between holds and placements down low.
Good rest in the pod, another crux and then fun climbing.
Edit - We only did the first pitch. Did not do the second/continuation.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Not so obscure.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Joe, Dimitri didn't extend it. Ask Mike about those couple of days....
Clint for the record.....Mike Hatchet bolted and led the first ascent of the entire Cats Squirrel. He put in the work, cleaning and gearing it and sussing it out. I belayed him and led the second ascent right after he bagged the first. Dimitri was there and climbed it on a TR shortly there after. Rick and Dave were not there at all.
You can do the route in one long pitch. I remember the crux being right at the end of the seam and involving a thin gaston move. I don't know where the FA info came from but it's absolutely incorrect.
I think there was pin in first pitch of CS when I did it. It was one of my first 5.12 leads as well. I remember it having had the rep at the time of being one of the softest 12a's in the ditch.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Ken,
Thanks for the correction - I'll update my notes, changing it to:
Mike Hatchett, Ken Ariza, Dimitri Barton.
I believe I got that former info from Dimitri recently.
The climb was 24 years ago, so I guess his memory was a little foggy.
It was in the 1994 guidebook as "FA: Unknown"
I think sometimes pins get fixed, but if they don't make it onto the topo, they might get pulled or not replaced if they get loose.
So it's important to get the topo right.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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I led the first pitch clean on aid four of five years ago. Can't remember anything about if except a couple of falls that extended one of my screamers. I do remember looking up from the fall and thinking, "damn, wasted a screamer."
To answer your question
1. Taken a few whips on peckers/tomahawks. Never more than 20'. One straight down on a #3 pecker sunk 1/3 of the way. Another sideways fall on a #2 tomahawk placed in a shallow leaning seam. A few small >5' falls on handplaced beaks. Bomber.
It's very easy to protect on lead with hooks when rope-soloing by cinching the hook down by prussicing it against the lower anchor via the lead line.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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I know Dimitri wanted to do it badly but Mike had already put in the work so he deserved, and got his first cracks at it and he sent it. If Dimitri told you differently he's definitely mistaken.
I went up with Mike after he had already had it cleaned and sussed for the red point. I tried to TR it that evening but fell at the top moves. Mike, Dimitri, and myself all came back the next day and climbed it. It's possible Dave and or Rick helped with the cleaning work but neither were there the day it was first done.
I know Mike will remember the events as I describe them (and the crazy ones I choose not to) of those two days.
Mike? You out there?......
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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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Clint / Ken,
Given that there was a fixed pin on the FA it seems, what is the ethic regarding replacing the missing pin? I am pretty sure I know right where it was, given the LA scar I placed a beak in...
I am not really for or against replacing it... I am just curious what the ethic is surrounding such a scenario...
With that said, if there were a fixed pin still present protecting the moves to the first pod.. I never would have resorted to aiding it to TR it before I committed to lead it free with such a big ground fall before the first real pro... for me personally... that climb is right at my "on gear" limit.. and I simply fell in love with the line... but given that I am not as strong a climber I'm sure as the others who just fired it to the pod... in hind sight maybe I should have chosen a better protected (near the ground) climb for pushing my limits... i guess its a fine line I suppose... trying to safely push ones limits on gear..
with all that said.... If the ethic is such that replacing a fixed pin is acceptable/desired... I am really stoked on this climb for whatever reason... and I am happy to donate a pin to it...
Dustin
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Alex Baker
climber
Portland
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I'm a pretty timid gear leader but did lead this climb. A cam hook works well for pro at the beginning - I fell on it. Rad line, and cool post.
AB
p.s. Leave the hammer at home and bring a boulder pad or a cam hook instead - it's gone clean without a fixed pin for many years.
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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
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Alex - Interesting that you are a timid leader and risked, then whipped on a cam hook! I have climbed plenty of walls and love cam hooking.. but never have (and probably never will) consider them as free climbing pro... personally although I have never whipped on a beak either.. in theory I would still take a decent hand placed beak whipper every time over any cam hook fall...
regardless good work on the lead.. that first bit is scary with no (or bad) pro... for me...its not that its really that hard... that first crux is certainly not 12a (seemed like middle 11's)... but its more that its completely insecure on really bad (crumbly) feet.. and at an angle such that your not likely to deck gracefully (if there is such a thing ;-)
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Pins should always be removed when modern, removable gear offers similar protection. I've also brought a pad to the base of some runout slabs with the first bolt waaayyy up.
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Alex Baker
climber
Portland
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Take the cam hook and the bouldering pad and I think your risk level will be pretty damn low. Again, what a cool climb.
AB
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Given that there was a fixed pin on the FA That's not really what Ken said.
Ken didn't do the FA of p1 - it was done in 1980.
Ken climbed it in 1989 when he led through the extension (if that date is correct), and possibly led the original p1 earlier (but probably not before 1985?).
If there was a pin on the 1980 FA, it was apparently gone by 1983, since in that photo of Dimitri, his rope goes down to the left instead of to the right.
And the pin was apparently not there for most of the people who have mentioned leading it on this thread.
Probably the pin was added at some point by somebody who wanted better pro.
And then taken out by somebody else who wanted to cram their tips in the pin scar.
Like Katie said - you could try to place gear there, but it might get in the way of your fingers.
I'd say it's best not to restart that cycle; somebody will pull it and the scar will get worse.
It seems like part of the attraction of the route to you is the challenge of protecting it on (clean) gear you place.
So I wouldn't cheat around that challenge. If it seems too dicey, do other climbs until you are ready.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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To clarify, I led pitch one of CS in 1984 or '85 and I am almost sure there was a pin down low when I did it. Doesn't surprise me that it was done for years prior without the pin. There were a lot of super honed granite climbers in the Valley at that time. Adding a pin to it now is pointless as its been done for decades without one.
The extension was done in '88 or '89 and I can't recall if there was a pin at that time or not but it wouldn't have mattered because that first bit was relatively east terrain compared to the rest.
Werner, I free soloed Sherries crack as well one year with Peter Kohl. We down climbed the chimney around and left of it. I never thought you could gain the top of CS from there??
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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2013 - 09:34am PT
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Clint - Ken,
Thanks for the clarifications, as I must have misunderstood the timeline. As I mentioned I was neither for nor against it, just curious what the ethic was.
Its been really awesome to hear about all the history of this line...
Its a great line, and for me I think a bouldering pad and one hand placed beak as pro to protect the moves to the first pod will be adequate...
While there have been a handful of folks who have posted here about doing it in recent'ish years, I think its a bit of a shame its not done more, as its a very interesting route, requiring a variety of techniques from thin slab, to tips lb, to fingers....
Ill post up some pics after I get a chance to go back and fire the free lead....
Dustin
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Nov 10, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
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morning, cat's squrriel ia a name of a cream song, and the first and first free ascents was bill price and augie klein in 1980 and they rated it 5.12a, and i was there at the time, and it is in the old george meyers and don reed yosemite guide book, check it out, cheers and happy climbing mike a.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Bump because the video in the post above is 5 star!!
 Luke
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