Same Climb - Different Time (pics & stories)

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BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 29, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
With so many long term climbers on the Taco, I thought it would be fun to start a thread where folks can post up new and old pics from the same climb, summit etc. Maybe stories from different times as well. I'm sure there are lots of great pairs O pics out there, so dig through your collections and post up!

I'll start off with a pic from last weekend and it's 25 year old counterpart...
Jah Man P4, Sister Superior, Castle Valley.  October 2013.
Jah Man P4, Sister Superior, Castle Valley. October 2013.
Credit: BrassNuts
Jah Man, October 1988.
Jah Man, October 1988.
Credit: BrassNuts
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 29, 2013 - 10:53pm PT

Thank godess you've graduated from Lycra!!!!


hee hee hee. . .
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 29, 2013 - 10:53pm PT


Looking good there in both photos BN! We didn't have cameras when I started climbing.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Oct 29, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
Wow! That is so cool!

Susan
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 29, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
Don't have photos right now, but I've climbed El Matador on devils tower every ten years or so since the middle seventies. The first time being as an aid climb, With, pitons!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Oct 29, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
Bet some of those cams were on your harness for both trips!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 29, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
same cams? I looked quickly and I don't think so... but he might be wearing lycra under those "styled for the mature climber" trousers...

cool, I'll take a look, sure I don't have a picture of me using the exact foot holds and hand jams as appears to be the case in your image above!

just noticed that it was nearly the same frickin time of day too!!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Oct 29, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
Oh good! I can't wait to see what you have Ed!
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2013 - 12:17am PT
Here's another pair of pics from the time machine to get things rolling...
First time on the summit of Otto's Route, 1984.
First time on the summit of Otto's Route, 1984.
Credit: BrassNuts
Otto's Route summit 2008, with a much cuter partner :-)
Otto's Route summit 2008, with a much cuter partner :-)
Credit: BrassNuts
edit: Riley, I'm just weaker now :-)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 30, 2013 - 12:21am PT
This is a cool thread, did ya used to say "tape is for pussies!" Back in 88?
;-)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Oct 30, 2013 - 12:44am PT
ah, crimpie sure has changed
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Oct 30, 2013 - 02:08am PT
"ah, crimpie sure has changed"

still just about as ripped though!
Edge

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Oct 30, 2013 - 10:48am PT
Cathedral Ledge summit, 1962. Age 1

Thanks Mom!
Thanks Mom!
Credit: Edge

And same spot some 45 years later with my daughter (on the left.)

Cathedral Ledge, NH tourist outlook.
Cathedral Ledge, NH tourist outlook.
Credit: Edge
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
Good one Edge! That time span will be hard to top!
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Oct 30, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
Steelmonkey just did one of these on his top secret blog:

Me on Halfway to Paradise in JT:

Credit: Russ Walling

And again something like 33+ years later (and on TR, puss!)

Credit: SM photo, 10/2013
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
Oct 30, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Shazam! Russ......looks like to many burritos and coffee drinks in those 33 years.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Oct 30, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
Only 25 years apart?

Try this one:

Just this past September 8, 2013. Summit shot on Torre Lusy, Cortina D...
Just this past September 8, 2013. Summit shot on Torre Lusy, Cortina Dolomites. My companion is Mauro Bernardi (L).
Credit: Brokedownclimber

I have misplaced my pictures of that exact climb done on September 8, 1963...a 50 YEAR interval. Here's one from another climb I did only 2 days earlier on September 6, 1963: Cima della Madonna, Scarf Arete (UIAA V+, or 5.7+/5.8-)

My young 24 year old a$$ is on the left, my companion is Giacomo Scale...
My young 24 year old a$$ is on the left, my companion is Giacomo Scalet after his 66th ascent of the route.
Credit: Brokedownclimber
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
Oct 30, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
Cool thread!

Love those purple tights with little blue and orange dots. They just don't make spandex like that anymore, do they.

I think you upgraded your partner by 1000%, BN. That's a great pic of the two of you.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Oct 30, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
Ed said,

ah, crimpie sure has changed

I assume you mean she is even prettier today!

Am I right, Ed?


On the subject of repeating old climbs, here is my TR regarding RCA on DAFF Dome in Tuolumne. It describes a 39 year gap between climbs.

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/In-Search-of-Lost-Climbs-RCA-on-DAFF/t11979n.html
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Oct 30, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
fun thread!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Oct 30, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
Russ that first photo of yours is classic
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 30, 2013 - 10:56pm PT

Okay, Russ, do you still have those EB's?????
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Oct 30, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
Obviously, Russ has spent too much time waxing his snorkel.

Brokedown, those are great shots.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
Roger leads the year differential category so far... we need Fred Beckey to chime in :-) Here's another pair to keep things rolling.
First time on the summit of Half Dome, 1978 with my high school buddy ...
First time on the summit of Half Dome, 1978 with my high school buddy Jeff K. Hiked the cables, camped on top. Super fun.
Credit: BrassNuts
With the late Jack Roberts after climbing Autobahn, 1991.
With the late Jack Roberts after climbing Autobahn, 1991.
Credit: BrassNuts
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
Oct 31, 2013 - 10:49am PT
Dave-

I don't think there are any shots of Beckey at an early age, 'cause Kodachrome hadn't been invented yet... ;)
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Oct 31, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
More photos! Hoping others have some good ones too.
Alois

Trad climber
Idyllwild, California
Oct 31, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
NE Ridge Lone Pine Peak, High Sierra, 1983. Photo: Miguel Carmona
NE Ridge Lone Pine Peak, High Sierra, 1983. Photo: Miguel Carmona
Credit: Alois

On the 3 mile long NE Ridge of Lone Pine Peak, 3rd or 4th ascent, 12 hours ctc. Miguel Carmona took the photo in 1983.

On the summit boulder of the NE Ridge of LPP, August 2013. Penelope Ma...
On the summit boulder of the NE Ridge of LPP, August 2013. Penelope May-Smrz photo.
Credit: Alois

On the summit boulder of the North-East Ridge of Lone Pine Peak in August 2013. It took us two days this time. My wife Penelope took the picture.

Penelope on the steep section of the NE Ridge. August 2013.
Penelope on the steep section of the NE Ridge. August 2013.
Credit: Alois

Penelope wanted to do this long scramble for her 62nd Birthday so I ended up doing the route with her some 30 years after the first time.

Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Oct 31, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
John Muir (L), circa 1892, John Long (R) circa 2012
John Muir (L), circa 1892, John Long (R) circa 2012
Credit: Largo

Turtle Dome, 5.11a (1971)
Turtle Dome, 5.11a (1971)
Credit: Largo

Turtle Dome, 2012
Turtle Dome, 2012
Credit: Largo
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Oct 31, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
Awesome photos!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Oct 31, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
Largo, looks like u found some better beta eh?


Some really cool stuff here.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Oct 31, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
I took my son, Joe, up Woodson this summer, and pointed out the rock where I took his mom (my wife to be) on our first date in 1979. I took her up "Squawks," a 5.7 on the rock Joe is point to. Not exactly faithful to this thread, but I figured it might sort of fit.

I left my wife to be (Liz) on top of the rock when my climbing partner, Dave Hersey, showed up and said that Ray Olson was around selling cheap climbing gear. I did come back for her, though, and she did marry me. It's all good.

Credit: mooser
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2013 - 09:37am PT
Largo leads in the butt shot category...
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Nov 1, 2013 - 10:11pm PT

Knott only that, BN, he's wearin' PA's!!!!!
richross

Trad climber
Nov 1, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
Yellow Ridge in 1979 and 2010.

Credit: Harvey Arnold

Credit: Lou Palumbo
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Nov 2, 2013 - 12:41am PT
!!! Love!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 2, 2013 - 10:07am PT
Great thread!
Rcklzrd

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Nov 3, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
Trip to Joshua Tree circa 1972??
Credit: Rcklzrd

And a modern day trip to the same arch
Credit: Rcklzrd
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Nov 3, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
Great stuff~! Wish I had some to contribute.
BrassNuts

Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
Another pair to keep things rolling...
El Matador, 1986.  My first climb at Devil's Tower. Loved it!  Note th...
El Matador, 1986. My first climb at Devil's Tower. Loved it! Note the stylish lycra with goldfish and such
Credit: BrassNuts
El Mat, 2010.  Still one of my fave pitches anywhere :-)
El Mat, 2010. Still one of my fave pitches anywhere :-)
Credit: BrassNuts
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Nov 4, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
Fantastic thread!
Leggs

Sport climber
Tucson, AZ
Nov 4, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
SO GOOD!
Lovin' the history and stories.

~peace
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Nov 5, 2013 - 11:02am PT
Steve Wunsch leading the Lizard, Fisher Towers, in 1971. No pro except two slings on muddy flakes, each weighted down with a piton so the wind wouldn't blow it off.




This impressed me so much I put off leading the climb myself for 42 years. Only to find out that with modern gear it's not scary.

WBraun

climber
Nov 5, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Frozen sand ^^^^^^
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
U.N. Ambassador, Crackistan
Nov 5, 2013 - 11:18am PT
All rocks are frozen! Unless they're molten, that is.

DMT
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