Rescue on Whitney

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T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 15, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Thanks to ISAR. http://www.sierrawave.net/26893/climbers-stranded-in-snow/
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 15, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
Nice work!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
Oct 16, 2013 - 12:20am PT
Rescue bump
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 16, 2013 - 12:33am PT
According to the report, the climbers were doing a day climb on the east face of Mt Whitney and were unable to make their way off the mountain by the time the sun went down.
Is it outside of permit season?
Shorter daylight hours and incoming storm = risky if you don't have the speed.
10b4me

Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
Oct 16, 2013 - 12:46am PT
Clint, permit season ends October 31.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 16, 2013 - 12:54am PT
So after Oct 31 we are required to use our heads and be sensible? Damn, that's no fun!
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2013 - 01:33am PT
Echo Clint's comments. Late in the season if you are not climbing fast you really need to check the weather to see how big a window you have to do your route safely. Being overdue can have huge consequences as we saw here.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 16, 2013 - 02:10am PT
The reason I asked about the permit season is that I was wondering if they had one of those "unclaimed day use permits".
I thought those were issued late in the day, but after checking, I was wrong - they are issued at 2pm the previous day.

An experienced friend of mine from Washington was affected by lack of knowledge about the permits.
They wanted to do Russell and didn't realize permits were required until they got to the ranger station. They wanted overnight permits but didn't win the lottery. They did get unclaimed day permits.
Fortunately all 4 of them are quite fast, and it was in August, so they did Fishhook car-to-car from 6am to 10pm, in spite of getting offroute on the approach.
http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/california/russell

I can imagine if people don't understand the permit situation, they might end up trying with a day permit when they don't have the speed, figuring "I drove all the way over here; I can probably pull this off."
But it's still on them if they take that risk.
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