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| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Oct 10, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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I dig the rack beta:-)
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Oct 10, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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Yes. Kevin Andrews and Ken Bokelund did the second in 2001 or 2002..
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Oct 10, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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going up the right side of great roof! YIKES!!!!!!!!!!!!
good work erik!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Oct 11, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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That A5 pitch makes you wonder whats is up...
Looks fun. And mysterious. I would have to agree with Klaus, hard to believe the left side of the GR is A4. Maybe the whole texas flake moves when you climb it on that side!
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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Right on. Can someone ask Kevin or Ken for rack beta? I remember he said it was a great route.....put up by three brothers, how could you go wrong?
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Oct 11, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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While I was making that topo, I thought it would be fun to climb it from the Great Roof up...where it stops being slabby and the cracks start getting SPLITTER! Check it out on Xrez to really fill up your stoke-tank!
Yeah...no way that stuff is A4...but that is what the most recent beta says, so that what that pitch will get. At least until someone goes up there and finds out otherwise!
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 11, 2013 - 10:13am PT
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Leversee, myself and one other attempted a SA BITD. We turned back after not being able to get thru the 5th pitch. I thought that pitch to be contrived hook/bolting, but what do I know. I just know after whipping like 30+ after breaking a micro hook placement, it became impassable to my eye. I don't believe our topo had '5.11, A4,' just A4.
 ec
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Oct 11, 2013 - 10:21am PT
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Hey ec!
I pulled that rating directly off the FA topo. Who knows what shenanigans the Gellegos used to get through the "Placa Grande" (huge slab).
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Oct 11, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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yea I ment left left side, haha
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Kenny b
Big Wall climber
Truckee CA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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I did the second with Kevin .very cool route. The hard part of the great roof is getting started off the belay.i remember expanding cam hook and hooks with a short but bad fall potential before it gets Easier.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 12, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Aid climbing is bondage.
Nose goes free.
Caveman climbs to the left of free climb to remain in bondage .....
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Oct 12, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
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Yo Kenny!!
Welcome!!!
Bad to the Bone Backflip stories??
Riding the surfboard??
" You thought you were going to die!??!"
Do tell..
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 12, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
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Hey Ken,
It's Pete. Think last time we spoke was on the summit. Would love to hear your Bad to the Bone stories! I've done Born Under a Bad Sign and Bad Seed, and I need to climb BttB to complete my Bad Trilogy.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Kenny b- The word on Mediterraneo after the FA was "50 bolts, 50 hooks and 50 copperheads." What did you find up there?
One of the scariest placements on the Turning Point was a bathead on this route. Rusty mild steel cable just a couple of years old almost blowing apart as I had to stand on it looking at a 100 footer. I took a fifty footer lower on the same pitch and ran several more hook placements together before I had to trust their POS.
I saw lots of fixed pin and tat stations on their route as I did the Turning Point.
The Gallegos brothers ran fixed lines well into the Grey Bands which hadn't been done since the Dihedral Wall went up. With these three as the grandfathers of Spanish wall climbing it is no wonder that their scene has been so retrograde.
The fact that the Gallegos brothers own the biggest slow on earth is utterly laughable. It does explain why King Richard of Hindsight chose to do battle with Spain. LOL
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
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The Gallegos brothers ran fixed lines well into the Grey Bands which hadn't been done since the Dihedral Wall went up. Actually, Ray Jardine had 42 ropes fixed up to Camp 5 on the Nose in 1980 when he and partners were working on freeing it.
http://www.rayjardine.com/adventures/Climbing/climbing_log/index.htm
But that is a bit different than doing the FA of an aid wall.
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nopantsben
climber
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Oct 12, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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With these three as the grandfathers of Spanish wall climbing it is no wonder that their scene has been so retrograde.
you obviously have no idea...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
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nopantsben- Do you think that the American or Canadian wall climbing traditions would produce a guy like Pelut?
A6+ from a line of holes...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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Judging by nationality is a bad idea. There is a diversity in every population....
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Oct 12, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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Judging by nationality is a bad idea. There is a diversity in every population....
Yup.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
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Have a sense of humour guys...
With Pelut and Rivet Hanger, the proud Spanish cockerels crowing so loudly the topic is on the table.
Happy Now backedit Boy?!?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 12, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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RH is as Spanish as Taco Bell.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
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He did use the Catalonian disclaimer...
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Kenny b
Big Wall climber
Truckee CA
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Oct 13, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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Mediterrano did indeed have some 1/4"holes with #2heads in them .quite a few up high in fact.lots of hooking and heading on the route with some shitty belays. We thought since they fixed so much many they could get away with out hauling every pitch .we did it with 60m ropes and would get to the end of some pitches and make a belay with small pitons.on the traverse pitch at the top of the big cleft where it goes toward the nose the belay was only a 0 tcu and two knife blades. My partner wouldn't cut the haul or jug unless I beefed it up! Wise man Kevin is. 50+ heads all hooks 15 beaks all sizes some ground down bd and pica smal.2or3rups for under small roof nailing standard pin rack with a few short thin kb's A4+ 5-11+R one crux is on top of the half dollar .tips under cling lunge to a small ledge with a fall into the corner of the half dollar .almost broke my arm first try. glad i got it on the second,. Grand adventure .took us 12 days no fixing
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 13, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
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Kenny b,
Thanks for the look back in time!
I always wondered about that route, especially that big chimney above the Great Roof, and the part up in the final corner just left of the Nose - it looks pretty blank up there. Looks like it was a lot of hooking up there?
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
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Woohoo! Thanks Kenny! I'll get that rack in there.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
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Does this sound right Rack wise?
2001 Rack:
3 RURPS
15 Beaks: some ground down
8-10 KBs
12 LAs
Angles: 2-3ea to 1” sawed
Nuts: 2ea
Cams: 3-4ea .3-4”
50 Heads
Hooks: 2ea
Camhooks
Rivet Hangers
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nopantsben
climber
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Oct 13, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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the level of the thread drift is just way too low for such a good thread. nice to hear something about this route.
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Oct 15, 2013 - 04:25am PT
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Steve wrote "The fact that the Gallegos brothers own the biggest slow on earth is utterly laughable. It does explain why King Richard of Hindsight chose to do battle with Spain. LOL"
Do you know that this route has been made in 45 hours (non-stop)? And know why, Pelut was one inside the three-party! It's like a joke came true, isn't it?
Our friend King Richard of Hindsight (the man with beef steaks intead of ears aka I see saw marks on the wall) was attracted for A6+ rating. Try it, put up a new route and rate it A5+...
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Oct 15, 2013 - 06:11am PT
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I do recall the Gallegos brothers coming "to town" in Yosemite. They didn't mix with the Camp 4 crowd, just got after it and on the wall. Which explains why their routes were never "recognised" (I think the topo going around is derived from an "obscurites" I sent to Chris Mac and others, from an old Desnivel magazine and other sources). The locals nicknamed their route near the heart, "The Heart Attack" because they were on it for a long time. Not kind.
But I tell you what--I got to know some of the Gallegos during one of my trips to Europe, and was impressed with their low key, determined attitude toward their climbing and mountaineering achievements. Good guys who have accomplished some pretty amazing climbs on all sorts of terrain.
They were good to us in equipping Xaver and me with the custom insulated Boreals that made our climb on Great Trango smooth--being able to climb those 5.9+ offwidths and 5.10 cracks significantly sped up our progress, and without those shoes (which we wore as our double boot inner boot) we wouldn't have been able to freeclimb in the sub-zero conditions at 20,000 feet.
Long live the Gallegos!
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nopantsben
climber
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Oct 15, 2013 - 06:27am PT
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see what happens when someone who's actually met someone who didn't "mix with the crowd" in the valley talks about him, versus steve grossman talking about the same person?
one describes something awesome, the other one doesn't do anything but sharing his prejudice.
awesome photos, thanks!
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Oct 15, 2013 - 07:21am PT
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Yes, excellent example of a part of the american aid-climbing community prejudice...
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nopantsben
climber
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Oct 15, 2013 - 07:39am PT
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the american aid-climbing community is not one person on the internet, and the other way around.
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Oct 15, 2013 - 09:16am PT
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Right, that's where the term "part of" must be understood...
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nopantsben
climber
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Oct 15, 2013 - 09:36am PT
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you're splitting hairs when suggesting that one out of dozens of people is a relevant part of a community to judge that community.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Oct 15, 2013 - 10:32am PT
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Very cool post, Ducey! Yes...that topo is derived from that magazine article. Their Verano Magico topo is too ambiguous for me to make anything worthwhile from it. I also can't track down a topo for Murica, so I think we may need to be content with a few lines up the cliff.
That is, unless anyone know how to get in touch Los Hermanos Gellegos....
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tom Carter
Social climber
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Oct 15, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
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Nice shot John!!!
Reminds me of a quote attributed to Will Rogers, "I don't like that guy..... guess I'd better get to know him"!
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Rivet hanger
Trad climber
Barcelona
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Oct 16, 2013 - 03:32am PT
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Hi RP3,
García Gallego brothers aka Los Murcianos (the first surname is García and the second is Gallego; in Spain, people have the first surname coming from the father and the second from the mother, but since García is a really common surname in Spain, the second one is more characteristic) are four brothers named Miguel Ángel, José Luís, Carlos and Javier. As far as I know, Miguel Ángel and probably José Luís make part of the Murcia (a region of Spain) climbing federation. You can send them an e-mail asking for him and probably can contact him through: fmrm@fmrm.net or presidente@fmrm.net
Another way to contact Miguel Ángel is get in contact with the Spanish Climbing Federation since four brothers make part of the GAME (Grupo de Alta Montaña Español). If you explain your goal, I'm sure they will give you his e-mail: fedme@fedme.es
If you do not succed let me know, I know two or three people that know Miguel Ángel personally.
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pelut espania
Big Wall climber
Espania
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Hola Amigos! Pelut es going at El Capitan Mediterraneo with many new bolts and ratings for the American Dogs that did not vision the route.
Mi equipmente es mostly bolts and chisle tools of grand ideas not American dogs. Mi hombre PassDelPitonesPedro will be my lover on this adventura and will rate according to American dog YDS not Canada ratings. A6 is possible grades!
Viva Espania!
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wallyvirginia
Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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But at least you did the coco drillo emanuel and not use tools electrico as is Spanish norm?
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wallyvirginia
Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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Oct 16, 2014 - 09:00am PT
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How could post of the year, by "Pelut", pass under everyone's radars? It's brilliant!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 16, 2014 - 09:15am PT
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Troll..
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wallyvirginia
Trad climber
Stockholm, Sweden
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Oct 16, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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Yes, obviously, but still an elaborate joke. Digging up this old thread, creating a new account etc..
Mi hombre PassDelPitonesPedro will be my lover on this adventura..
Hilarious!
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pelut espania
Big Wall climber
Espania
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Oct 20, 2014 - 08:43am PT
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Hola mi perro Amercanos!! Mi bolsa is listo and mi Pedro is hard! The root will be mine and A6 like my other art.
The peepingTom will photography our macho ways e summit and mi futuro libro. You sissy Americano dogs can watch and cry like mi little hermana . go cry now American dogs and relize A6 comes only from Espania mans with Espania blood not puss sauces of Americans.
!!Viva Espania!!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Holy geez, I missed this invite the first time round. Was up on the wall I reckon.
OK, Pelut - I accept. But YOU are the girl....
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| Messages 1 - 45 of total 45 in this topic |
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