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yo
Sport climber
Fresno, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 22, 2003 - 09:47pm PT
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Just got back from Coloradee, where we climbed Over the Hill in Eldo. Brilliant route that goes up this sheer, lowish angle, 90 degree dihedral. Thing is, you have to stem/smear it, because there's really nothing else to do.
Devil's Towers has egads of stemming stuff too (Matador comes to mind) but I've been wracking my brain trying to think of the classicest stemming routes in Yos. Nothing's popping to mind, which is normal. Maybe the geology is different (not conducive to long stretches of stemming) but I can't remember an extended stretch of the stuff in the Valley.
Another thought is that I'm usually too gripped to trust my feet, so I do some stupid ape climbing move instead of stem.
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raincoast
climber
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Jul 23, 2003 - 04:19am PT
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Not done it myself but Yosemite Climber has a great shot of Kauk doing some wild stemming on the Bircheff-Williams. Start stretching!
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Wade Icey
climber
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Jul 23, 2003 - 11:10am PT
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don't know about 'best' but the opening moves on Roadside Attraction are pretty cool.
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Matt
Trad climber
SF Bay Area
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Jul 23, 2003 - 12:34pm PT
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I guess OZ isn't in the valley.
Leanie Meanie has some cool stems.
Great wide stems at the end of the 1st pitch of the EButt of El Cap.
My partner followed the crux pitch of the EButt of LCR by stemming the whole thing, but I chimneyed my way up. Stemming up there would be cool.
Never yet done the Moratorium or the Good Book, but hey, those are big long corners too.
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spidey
Gym climber
east bay
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Jul 23, 2003 - 12:43pm PT
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Bircheff-Williams on middle cathedral has some great, hard stemming/liebacking on the first pitch.
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Jul 23, 2003 - 01:41pm PT
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Followed one called "Second Coming" last week on Medlicott that had some great delicate and balancey stemming yet was pumpy as hell too. The downside is that it's kind of sandbagged, it has lots of black moss, and it has jive fixed nut anchors right in the middle of the crack (just before it becomes 5.8 face climbing) b/c it seemed that the FA either didn't feel like bolting or continuing to the top.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop, Ca.
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Jul 23, 2003 - 02:13pm PT
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I took a non-OW guy up Mental Block and he stemmed the entire thing. Good Book comes to mind.... Bircheff-Williams.. Anticipation at Arch? (probably senile)
Russ
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LovesToClimb
climber
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Jul 23, 2003 - 03:31pm PT
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Rocky Horror Show, on Pat and Jack Pinnacle, to the right of the Tube.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 23, 2003 - 09:31pm PT
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To the right of "Razors Edge" elephants graveyard. Probably longest hardest stemming climb in the valley. Very sustain stemming all the way. Can't remmember the name, put up by Roland.
Werner
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Jul 24, 2003 - 01:18pm PT
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Yin-Yang, a slick 90 feet or so of 10+ stemming on the shady side, sentinel creek....
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Rich the Brit
Trad climber
San Ramon, CA
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Jul 24, 2003 - 09:09pm PT
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Speaking of Matador on DT in WY, I met a pair that had climbed the route. They said that they had never been so grateful to find a "no feet" rest after such intense stemming. They found some solid jams about half way up and just let their legs dangle.
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yo
Sport climber
Fresno, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2003 - 11:05pm PT
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Exactly. The thing with Matador is you think you should start stemming right away but you will die if you do! My friend went up there for three days, climbed that thing first, and could barely walk until he went home. The burn!!!!
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weekender
climber
Oaklanc CA
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Jul 25, 2003 - 06:16pm PT
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By the way, Rocky Horror Picture Show at Pat and Jack Pinnacle area is excellent.
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Jul 25, 2003 - 07:36pm PT
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Wasp (rated either 5.9+ or 5.9d in the Reid guide) at New Diversions Cliff was pretty excellent. My bf guessed the grade for the direct start hand/finger crack moves at ~11 (dunno,as I was pulling on gear and hanging on the rope). The stemming above (the bulk of the pitch) was solid 5.10. Definately the steepest face climb that I've been on in Yosemite! (...which maybe doesn't say that much, but it was really, really steep!) Bring brass nuts.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 27, 2003 - 12:07am PT
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Bircheff-Williams is the classic, must stem problem. You can TR it if you like after rapping from Central Pillar.
Moritorium is a major stemming classic as well.
Anticipation is stem city.
Sometimes you can do some chimney moves instead of stemming. Makes resting easier. I can chimney all but the last move or two of Bircheff-Williams.
Peace
Karl
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Feb 12, 2011 - 04:13am PT
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bump
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 12, 2011 - 10:26am PT
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I have to agree with the Bircheff-Williams and Anticipation. The Valley obviously is not stem city.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Feb 12, 2011 - 10:36am PT
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 12, 2011 - 11:14am PT
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What Werner is talking about here is the The Book of Hate, a 5.13d monster that Randy Leavitt put up in 1999. He did an article on it too in one of the climbing magazines. It is hard enough that he was taping his palms, as I recall. He projected it for quite awhile. It is 140 feet. Also it appears inthe videos: Inertia 1/2
Here is a bit from the AAJ / Shipoopi speaks:
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Feb 12, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
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Ditto for BW 1st pitch, Anticipation, Moratorium and Rocky Horror Picture Show. I was never up for Randy's Book of Hate (what an uninspiring name for such a gorgeous corner/arch) but that might be the Mac Daddy of Valley stemmers.
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