What is the essence of sport climbing? :)

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 118 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Sep 5, 2013 - 11:17pm PT
If the .xx after the 5 didn't matter to you, you'd be over on Summitpost.com beating off about the trail up the back side. That .xx is everything - and a whole lot of what many of you don't appear to have sh#t of.

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 5, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
The essence of sport climbing is climbing.

Climbing the rock with the minimal amount of gear, and leaving the sheltered corners and crack systems behind. Straight over roofs, and linking up features on the steep open face. Dangling around and making creative use of your feet as you go, not limited to hand and foot jams in a crack, and not worried about ripping dicey gear out and busting yourself up. Cams and nuts are kind of a PITA to drag up steep cliffs, and fiddling around trying to place them on the lead is too.

Then you gotta add runners to the pieces on long pitches to make the rope run free. A well bolted sport pitch has next to no rope drag, and rope drag is, well, a drag.

In a lot of ways, sport climbing is the purest form of climbing. Depending on what your definition of climbing is, right? (ya grumpy old curmudgeons) Bouldering is purer in a way, but you can't boulder the big stuff, or most of us can't, and the big stuff forms the roots of climbing.

Definitely doesn't earn the buzz of a life and limb risking all out trad horror show, but sport climbing is a great way for old guys, and even young folks, to climb steep rock in the great outdoors.
alina

Trad climber
CA
Sep 5, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
I'm speaking up because
a) from previous posts, it seems you guys were just begging for a women's opinion
and b) I have a strong issue with the "sport climbing = pure athletic movement" statement, which leaves trad as... ???

I disagree because, for me, the essence of athleticism and the perfection of movement comes from the mental state. Fear, consequences, and the focus required to deal with those factors contribute a psychological aspect to climbing. With focus, we have pure athletic movement. Without, we have a lurching about.
So, for me, a free solo comes closer to what was mentioned as the "essence of sport climbing" than batting around on top rope. And pushing myself mentally and physically on a trad route is definitely pure athletic movement.
Leggs

Sport climber
Tucson, AZ
Sep 5, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
What are you talking about? Rules? We are talking about freaking CLIMBING! All forms of it are supposed to be fun, and than it only matters how serious you take it and how obsessive you are about improving. I don’t think the rules apply to climbing. Every single participant makes up his own rules. And if a bunch of people in one area agree to one set of rules due to peer pressure etc it doesn’t mean the whole world must play, or respect those rules.
I do not sport climb often, but when I do I have a good time. In Peru for example it gave me time to rest mentally and get excited about climbing the high mountains again. It is good training. I still am afraid to fall even though I know there is a bolt below me.
God, if I cared about every single rule other people have...
Vitaliy makes some excellent points in his statement.



As does kaholatingtong with his contribution:
its about the ability to focus on just the difficulty of the moves, and thus, to push said difficulty a lot further. very similar to bouldering for me, just longer, with a rope, and with a power-endurance aspect i suppose.



Dingus, thank you for sharing Monique's clip... damn awesome! SHE is an inspiration!


And the Zoolander clip... I nearly peed my pants.


Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
Oh Mucci.





locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:17pm PT


"The essence of sport climbing is climbing.

Climbing the rock with the minimal amount of gear, and leaving the sheltered corners and crack systems behind. Straight over roofs, and linking up features on the steep open face. Dangling around and making creative use of your feet as you go, not limited to hand and foot jams in a crack."
...


+1

patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Sport climbing is both.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
The essence of sport climbing is to crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentations of their wimmin...

Or to be the climber having the most fun.

How do they shoot the bolts up there anyhow?
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Eigths, quarters,...you guys sellin' weed, or comparing heights Mark? ;^)

on a trad route is definitely pure athletic movement.

So when you're standing there fiddling with trinkets, not moving anywhere for minutes at a time in some cases...that is "pure athletic movement"? O.K. Not in my book, and I spent at least twice as much time climbing gear routes as I do sport routes.

I do enjoy intricate and scary gear routes on occasion, but have no illusions that it has more appeal from an athleticism or movement perspective. I personally prefer crack climbing to anything else, but that's also why I like soloing...cracks without the stopping and futzing with gear. Sport climbing gives me the "no futzing" part, with challenging terrain that I can, and will, fall on.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
Dingus, thank you for sharing Monique's clip... damn awesome! SHE is an inspiration!


I find it quite a moving video :-)

My daughters loved it :-D

The reaches Monique makes are so freakin cool. One full extension after another, full effort. And that stem near the top... un... believable.

DMT
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
I think ol Caughtinside has spent some time climbing with Monique and Simon (Carter, the stellar aussie climbing photog)
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Sep 6, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
I wish my sport climbing area wasn't scary but the majority of the climbs were bolted ground up by bold climbers. I have to head point my projects because I'm not so bold.

Awesome vid of Monique.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 6, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
Roll em around a bit for the SEND!
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Sep 6, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
Wax and roll.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Sep 6, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
I went to The Verdon once, years ago, and had the good fortune to be shown around by JB Tribout. Nearly my first question when we walked up to the railing along the top of that stupendous climbing area was about the colonets and the giant shaded wall across the gorge which the woman in Dingus' video is climbing. At the time he told me there were no major routes on that side of the Verdon Gorge because it was too hard to get to.

Looks like it was worth the trouble.

Anyway, if you're still cynical about sport climbing after watching that video, a trip to the Verdon, or Ceuse, or Buoux would probably change your mind.

Unless you're just into wide cracks or aid climbing...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 6, 2013 - 04:45pm PT

A bit of Ceüse, Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda

The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Sep 6, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Awesome video. Sharma = Greatness.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Sep 6, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Oh yeah - starting at 3:00 - exactly how the Bachar-Yerian went in - except different because Sharma goes back and frees the thing w/o hanging from the hooks before calling it an FA. Suck it up wankers.

The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Sep 6, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Sharma didn't call it anything. He just went climbing.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Sep 6, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
Sport climbing has opened up a lot of climbs that simply would not exist otherwise. I have been developing a cliff that is 15 min from Dartmouth College, 180ft tall and a half mile or so long that had 4 or 5 never repeted, obscure scarefests mostly on the less appealing features. It now has 16 new climbs many of them 5 stars. A few are mixed climbs. A few are ground up but most are sport climbs as that is what the rock offers.
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