What is the essence of sport climbing? :)


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Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
Oh Mucci.


Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:17pm PT

"The essence of sport climbing is climbing.

Climbing the rock with the minimal amount of gear, and leaving the sheltered corners and crack systems behind. Straight over roofs, and linking up features on the steep open face. Dangling around and making creative use of your feet as you go, not limited to hand and foot jams in a crack."


patrick compton

Trad climber
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
Sport climbing is both.

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
The essence of sport climbing is to crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentations of their wimmin...

Or to be the climber having the most fun.

How do they shoot the bolts up there anyhow?

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Eigths, quarters,...you guys sellin' weed, or comparing heights Mark? ;^)

on a trad route is definitely pure athletic movement.

So when you're standing there fiddling with trinkets, not moving anywhere for minutes at a time in some cases...that is "pure athletic movement"? O.K. Not in my book, and I spent at least twice as much time climbing gear routes as I do sport routes.

I do enjoy intricate and scary gear routes on occasion, but have no illusions that it has more appeal from an athleticism or movement perspective. I personally prefer crack climbing to anything else, but that's also why I like soloing...cracks without the stopping and futzing with gear. Sport climbing gives me the "no futzing" part, with challenging terrain that I can, and will, fall on.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
Dingus, thank you for sharing Monique's clip... damn awesome! SHE is an inspiration!

I find it quite a moving video :-)

My daughters loved it :-D

The reaches Monique makes are so freakin cool. One full extension after another, full effort. And that stem near the top... un... believable.


Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 6, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
I think ol Caughtinside has spent some time climbing with Monique and Simon (Carter, the stellar aussie climbing photog)
The Larry

Moab, UT
Sep 6, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
I wish my sport climbing area wasn't scary but the majority of the climbs were bolted ground up by bold climbers. I have to head point my projects because I'm not so bold.

Awesome vid of Monique.

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 6, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
Roll em around a bit for the SEND!
The Larry

Moab, UT
Sep 6, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
Wax and roll.
The Warbler

the edge of America
Sep 6, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
I went to The Verdon once, years ago, and had the good fortune to be shown around by JB Tribout. Nearly my first question when we walked up to the railing along the top of that stupendous climbing area was about the colonets and the giant shaded wall across the gorge which the woman in Dingus' video is climbing. At the time he told me there were no major routes on that side of the Verdon Gorge because it was too hard to get to.

Looks like it was worth the trouble.

Anyway, if you're still cynical about sport climbing after watching that video, a trip to the Verdon, or Ceuse, or Buoux would probably change your mind.

Unless you're just into wide cracks or aid climbing...

Sport climber
Sep 6, 2013 - 04:45pm PT

A bit of Cese, Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda

The Larry

Moab, UT
Sep 6, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
Awesome video. Sharma = Greatness.

Social climber
The internet
Sep 6, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Oh yeah - starting at 3:00 - exactly how the Bachar-Yerian went in - except different because Sharma goes back and frees the thing w/o hanging from the hooks before calling it an FA. Suck it up wankers.

The Larry

Moab, UT
Sep 6, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Sharma didn't call it anything. He just went climbing.

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Sep 6, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
Sport climbing has opened up a lot of climbs that simply would not exist otherwise. I have been developing a cliff that is 15 min from Dartmouth College, 180ft tall and a half mile or so long that had 4 or 5 never repeted, obscure scarefests mostly on the less appealing features. It now has 16 new climbs many of them 5 stars. A few are mixed climbs. A few are ground up but most are sport climbs as that is what the rock offers.

Big Wall climber
Sep 6, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
Essence of sport climbing = FUN. Pure, unbridled fun!

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Sep 6, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
^ ^ ^ ^ I agree. . . if it ain't fun. . . and it's recreation, WHY DO IT?


Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 6, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
allows athletic ability to be unrestricted
opened up a lot of previously unclimable rock
Revolutionized climbing standards
great training venue
popularized climbing (maybe not a positive)
took pressure off of traditional areas
extended climbing careers
brought more women into climbing

but its essence
without which it would lose its identity
most of its attributes, of which there are many, seem accidental
the opposite
of essence

Social climber
An Oil Field
Sep 6, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
It probably increased the amount of climbable rock by a factor of ten, once people got over the whole ground up thing.

I remember driving through Rifle before there were more than a handful of routes there, and it all looked either impossible to protect or impossible to climb. Both most of the time.

It has been good. There are so many climbers now. I was a stick in the mud myself around 1985, though. It took a little while to see the light. Now it is just climbing. I have friends who climb their freaking butts off.

It does bother me that a lot of sport climbers are intimidated by placing gear. They miss out on a lot of beautiful routes because of that. It is just a matter of practice. The ability is a zillion miles high now.
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