Time Machine on 9'OClock Wall Yosemite

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 134 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 1, 2013 - 12:13am PT
Time Machine (VI, A5+), Bob Shonerd (solo), 10/84

That's what it says in the 1993 Reid guide.

Anybody ever do the 2nd ascent? Did Bob really not drill any holes? 300 ft pitch?
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2013 - 12:22am PT
I just found this
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/15235/Time-Machine-on-9-oClock-Wall-Yosemite
WBraun

climber
Aug 1, 2013 - 12:22am PT
How come you never did it?

How come El Cap Pirate never did it?

How come nobody ever did it.

Maybe Honnold will free solo it for 2nd ascent.

WTF is wrong with America?

All they do is waste their time in the waring Mideast.

They could be climbing this stupid sh!t instead ......
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Aug 1, 2013 - 12:24am PT
Don't know/Can't remember details but But Bob told me, while he was working on the 9 o'clock, that he was using "Copper Tacos" i.e. pennies bent in half and swedged with thin cable as bashies/ heads.... He was also storing a live rattler in a stuff sack in the old breezeway lockers at the Village..i had no reason to doubt the penny thing....
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 1, 2013 - 12:28am PT
That would be something to go up there and find a penny smashed into some cable.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2013 - 12:29am PT
Funny sh!t Werner/Wade.

Just wondering why no one has done it.

A5+ with copperheads made of pennies? Knifeblades made from stolen cafeteria utensils? No drilling? 300 foot A5+ pitch?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Aug 1, 2013 - 12:37am PT
sounds like it's calling your name... Klaus...Klaus...Klaus...Klaus...
WTF

climber
Aug 1, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Yeah good idea klaus you do it and report back to us.

Take pics please!

Perhaps we could put Jeremy's mom on top with a jar of lube and a case of OE.
Think grand prize for your effort.

;)
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2013 - 12:44am PT
wait, I've only seen Jeremy's mom from behind, so I won't recognize her on top unless she sticks her tramp stamp over the edge for verification.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Aug 1, 2013 - 12:45am PT
I heard he used pull tabs from all the beer he drank as heads, never heard the penny story.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2013 - 12:47am PT
Bill Russell told me the stories so they must be true
WTF

climber
Aug 1, 2013 - 12:47am PT
So yer saying put Jeremy's mom on top doggy style with her tramp stamp in view and a jar of lube with some OE right?

Got it!

Done!
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2013 - 12:49am PT
yeah, that's about right.
weezy

climber
Aug 1, 2013 - 02:54am PT
i think the whole "pennyhead" story is getting embellished. singer told me when he did ice age he could see forks and spoons as fixed gear on time machine. that would be rad though...tying off a fork in the middle of that 300' triceratops pitch. you could tell just from the topo that the FA guy was nutter.
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Aug 1, 2013 - 03:18am PT
How come El Cap Pirate never did it?

It always intrigued me. I hiked up there several times and couldn't even find the start, ha haa. After that it seemed like a mythical route.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Aug 1, 2013 - 08:00am PT
He recently surfaced on Facebook. Here's his page if anyone wants to say hi
https://www.facebook.com/rshonerd
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Aug 1, 2013 - 10:47am PT
I didn't say the pennyhead story was true, I said Bob told me and I didn't doubt him...I know the snake thing is true,
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2013 - 10:50am PT
you can't see Time Machine from Ice Age. I walked all over the base many times trying to figure out where this route goes with no luck. There was no fixed gear that I could see. I question if this route actually exists.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Aug 1, 2013 - 11:49am PT
This one looks pretty hard:

Cool blood A5
http://yosemitebigwall.com/cool-blood

Klaus, what route are they referencing of yours on the topo?

Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Aug 1, 2013 - 11:49am PT
I remember when he put that thing up. Pennies and bottle caps, true. Snake stuff, way true. He lost one of his rattlers in D'Simpletons car right before a drive to LA. Never did find it.

I remember he was up there and some storm rolls in as they do in Oct... Bivy gear was probably nil, and somehow he traversed off in a snow storm, leaving all his gear in place, and showed up at Curry in a t-shirt looking pretty cold. He followed the big ramp about half way up the wall to traverse off to Satan knows what and then scramble back to the Vally floor. I bet that was some sort of adventure.

As a legend adder: I made some upside down haul bags for him so he could tow them into some winer hell to do a giant wall. He does the wall but takes too long, and the season ends abruptly and the ice used to return to civilization has melted out. He missed the plane or snowmobile or Yak or whatever the fuk you maniacs use. No word from Bob, so natch everyone assumes he is dead. Something like months later he shows up in a bar looking like Grizzly Adams. He walked out via like France or something. Hoofed it for 2 months to get back eating nothing but marmots, rats, bark beetles and brie.

a bit more: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1031741&msg=1032161

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/15235/Time-Machine-on-9-oClock-Wall-Yosemite

Freebie add: we were in the 4 Seasons doing the breakfast thing and Bob joins us at the table. He has a milk carton and a brown bag with him. The brown bag has a rattler in it and milk carton has a scorpion. Pets.

Hopefully he will post up!
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