Jim Donini...man or myth?

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Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 24, 2013 - 09:45am PT
I have climb with the guy and still think he a myth.

Great guy, amazing climber and tough as nails. Hope you had a great birthday Jim.

Jim on the 5.12 headwall on Wunsch's Dihedral, South Platte, CO

Wunsch's Dihedral
Wunsch's Dihedral
Credit: Bob D'A
Johnny K.

climber
Jul 24, 2013 - 09:54am PT
Much respect to Mr. Donini in all aspects of life,he isn't just an amazing badarse climber,he is an amazing person all around,cheers!
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Jul 24, 2013 - 10:07am PT
No myth there. He's the real deal.
Happy Birthday Jim.

Plaid
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Jul 24, 2013 - 10:07am PT
MYTH! how could some old dude climb that much? i may or may not have seen him at snowshed a couple years ago in the middle of winter, but i'm really not sure, so definitely going with myth.
10b4me

Ice climber
Middle-of-Nowhere, Arizona
Jul 24, 2013 - 10:21am PT
Had the opportunity to meet Jim back in 2004. He told me that whenever I was in Ouray, I had a place to stay. Hope that wasn't a myth.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:16am PT
Some portraits of Donini

the Devil
the Devil
Credit: maldaly

Donini, barefoot and sit-starting.
Donini, barefoot and sit-starting.
Credit: maldaly

Got to have...coffee.
Got to have...coffee.
Credit: maldaly

Rappelling Thunder Mountain
Rappelling Thunder Mountain
Credit: maldaly
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:19am PT
Definitely a myth.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:21am PT
Yeth?

DMT
Powder

Trad climber
the Flower Box
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:41am PT
It might seem like a myth, but it's real!!!!! As real as one can be!!

He's a man and he exists!!! : D

Saw and met Mr Donini twice in the Valley, one at the auditorium and the other time at Yellow Pines.


And the man is not old!! We're all as young as each other in geologic years! ; D


Kudos to Jim, you've always been an inspiration and I love your posts!! I'm so glad and feel honored to have shared the same planet with you. *^_^*



survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:44am PT
If only there were more Jim in each of us.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:47am PT
^^^^^^
Dude can stay 100% out of me
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Apparently he's real....Sol called him....and talked to his Mom...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeENjoLUgzs
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:56am PT
My fair opinion is that we need one more smurf besides the one we've already got...
























































Credit: Cosmiccragsman

Cosmic: What about a Donini smurf American-Italian style?
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
A man admired for his magnanimity and sense of humor as well as his climbing excellence...

We still await the "Great Debate"...




(thanks Peter Haan!)
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
Gym is a f*#king MAN. You look up Man, Chesthair or Gumption in the dictionary, you'll likely see his mug.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
Legend.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
Happy birthday Jim.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
Jim is an all around great guy, who I was lucky enough to climb with for a couple days,

I'd go with Legend!!!!!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
THE MAN on his May visit to Yosemite this year.
THE MAN on his May visit to Yosemite this year.
Credit: mouse from merced
A myth is ath good ath her thmile.--Lenny the Lithper
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
Neither man nor myth; he is a Bodhisattva. *

* a being oriented toward enlightenment, Bodhisattvas are "in the world but not of it" according to Buddhist sutras which also state a Bodhisattva foregoes his own final enlightenment until all other beings have been liberated.

Thus Sayeth the Doninisatva
Thus Sayeth the Doninisatva
Credit: TWP

Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
I have FINALLY figured out two things.....Donini's ACTUAL age....and who modeled for the craftsmen at Easter Island........


Credit: Mouse from Merced

Credit: Cragman
micronut

Trad climber
Jul 24, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
Not a single photo of him on lead in this thread. Is he mainly a top roper? Each to his own I suppose.

Happy Birthday.

Micronut.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
I heard he toproped Cerro Torre with a big lasso.
Crump

Social climber
Lakewood, CO
Jul 24, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
Myth!

There are no pictures of him when he was young therefore he is an alien!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 24, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
I can assure you Jim is no alien.

He came over legally.... on the Santa Maria.
Crump

Social climber
Lakewood, CO
Jul 24, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
I was meaning that is like an E.T. Type of alien, for clearly he is non-human!

Must come from an empowered race from a planet far far away!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Jul 24, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
Takin' my drum to the Creek bra . . .
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
Jul 24, 2013 - 06:35pm PT
I always loved Peter Pan... in my childhood imaginings he was my best pal. I never expected to actually meet him. Especially not in an old man's body.

Karl
Yeti

Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
Jul 24, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
Man, myth, Moai and survivor. Happy Birthday, ageless one.
MisterE

climber
Jul 24, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
Jim's a great guy, he still has his silly moments

Friday crowd
Friday crowd
Credit: MisterE
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
He's a fine youngster with a great future!
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
Here's photographic evidence that Donini has led a pitch. If you look closely you'll see that his right fingers are grappling with the rock while his left hand is clipping the draw.
JD at the Pool Wall, Queen Creek, AZ
JD at the Pool Wall, Queen Creek, AZ
Credit: maldaly

And this was me belaying him...
Mal belaying Jim
Mal belaying Jim
Credit: maldaly
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
He's more of a blue Camelot than an Alien.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
Jeez Mal, ya fall asleep on belay and sh!t goes missing!!!!

Dude!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 25, 2013 - 12:01am PT
Donini needed a leg up on that route.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jul 25, 2013 - 12:14am PT
Naw, I saw him. Right in front of me. He's real.
MisterE

climber
Jul 25, 2013 - 12:56am PT
This thread gives me hope for my future as an older climber...

I got nothing else.

Thanks, Jim.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 25, 2013 - 02:31am PT
What can you say to a guy that has heard it all. Happy trails, Jim.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Jul 25, 2013 - 09:44am PT
I climbed with Jim when he had just started rock climbing.
I witnessed his first Spring in Yosemite.
Definitely a myth.
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Jul 25, 2013 - 11:28am PT
I just hope I'm still on the green side of the grass when I'm his age, let alone leading 5.11...
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Dec 26, 2015 - 07:07am PT
A man of many talents.



Moose
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Dec 26, 2015 - 07:18am PT
Man, Myth, or....

































































Guacano
Guacano
Credit: Jim Clipper
WTF

climber
Dec 26, 2015 - 07:25am PT
Oh he's real for sure. Real pissed he's missing the Ted Cruz fundraiser were holding at his house this weekend in Ouray.

The guys about 35 trapped in some chassis that's got a few high miles on it. Not to many folks I respect in climbing because well climbing is not respectful but Jim's one of the few I respect for his total package in the sport.



clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Dec 26, 2015 - 07:59am PT
I don't take any but if there was a supplement called Jim Donini, I would take it.
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Dec 26, 2015 - 08:32am PT
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 26, 2015 - 08:54am PT
The first time I climbed with Jim was with Mark Chapman also, and we were trying to climb a short crack down the road from The Cookie on a scrappy little cliff. This was over forty years ago, so Jim couldn't have been much older than fifty. Chappy had found the splitter and was the most determined of the group to lead it, so he did, not without an all out effort. Jim was next, and he negotiated the crux in fine style, but his incredible strength backfired when he opted to latch onto a munge clump for a mantle at the top out and detached a 100 pound chunk. He came flying off with his big hand hold and the clod landed not far from my feet at the base with a thud and a cloud of dust. The munge clump, that is.

He wasted no time in getting back on it, and I was thoroughly impressed at what a fine and efficient job he did of cleaning the topout.

Chappy named it Fingerlickin'.

You go Do!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Dec 26, 2015 - 09:03am PT
Never heard of him.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 26, 2015 - 09:06am PT
What's a "Guacano"?
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Dec 26, 2015 - 12:38pm PT
Credit: MFM
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Dec 26, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
Business Donini style. Climbed all day, 6:00 P.M., comfy chair, red wine, calendar/appointment book.

Outdoor office.
Outdoor office.
Credit: Fritz
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Dec 26, 2015 - 06:19pm PT

JD, JD, he's our man, if he can't do it, nobody can!!!!
zBrown

Ice climber
Dec 26, 2015 - 06:53pm PT
Superman?

At a minimum he can read and talk at the same time. Or is it listen?

"What song is Jim listening to right now?"

Credit: zBrown
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Dec 26, 2015 - 09:43pm PT
Classic zBrown... but his song?

That old reprobate is currently listening to the song of the Patagonian wind.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 27, 2015 - 12:35pm PT
And a spicy little ditty it is...

https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=viento+de+patagonia+songs&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-004
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
Dec 27, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
What's a "Guacano"?

a cannoli stuffed with Guacamole, very popular in Chile, especially with the Guanacos
C4/1971

Trad climber
Depends on the day...
Dec 27, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
Having climbed (and third classed climbs) with Jim in the early seventies I can assure you that he is human. He is also one of the most focused climbers I have ever known, and that focus has warped into the myth.

That said, I had huge amounts of fun in Yosemite with him, and learned to become a better climber because of him.

In retrospect, I see that he has taken many climbers under his wing over the years, and enriched may lives by sharing his climbing prowess.

He is an excellent example of what humans become with focus, knowledge, and a love of life.
Dogtown.

Trad climber
Marshell islands atoll
Jan 1, 2016 - 04:50pm PT
Myth?
More like old School Rocky Mountain legend.
Right there with Layton Kor and a few others.
MikeMc

Social climber
Jan 1, 2016 - 05:01pm PT
I can't deny his existence, nor can I confirm his existence. I guess that makes me agnostic?

Or perhaps he is all and nothing. The entirety of all that has been, is, and will be. The very stuff of which we are all made, and there for I too am Donini. Would that make me a pantheist?

I think this might require another beer.
Friend

climber
Jan 1, 2016 - 07:06pm PT
Frickin living legend man.
Wish I could say I knew Jim other than just bumping into him in IC a couple times.
Classic climbing personality.

Warbler.. killer story, well told, as usual. Write a book, seriously!
Andrew "not that burch" Burch
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Jan 2, 2016 - 05:14am PT
jim is "the man" in my book. i hope i can go after the nose in a day when i am seventy. he is an icon down here in patagonia. i would love to get on something down here with him, but i am afraid i could not keep up on the approach(i can hold my own once i hit the rock). he has been shredding in patagonia for five decades now. ss
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Nov 17, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
It's hard not to love Jim after you shared the rope with him, enjoyed his cooking, listened to his stories and jokes. He's been my mentor for a few years now, and despite my old age he made me a climber. He believed in me even when I had a major leading block for a few years after the injury. Our last climbing trip was to Cochise Stronghold, where, I think, I passed the final exam. I finally feel like a rock climber. Thank you, Jim!

Here are a few pictures I took during his presentation in Tucson yesterday. It was superb.

Credit: Moosedrool

Credit: Donini

Credit: Donini

Credit: Donini

Credit: Donini

Credit: Donini

Credit: Donini

Credit: Donini

Credit: Donini

Credit: Donini

Credit: Donini

Credit: Donini

Dinner after the show
Dinner after the show
Credit: moosedrool

Moose
zBrown

Ice climber
Nov 17, 2017 - 07:46pm PT
Doesn't even surf, does he?

Anyway, One of the most admirable folks I've come across here.

Great skills, kind, sense of humor, moral.

Music not his strong suite, but I got to him once.



EDIT

SMART AS A TACK
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Nov 17, 2017 - 08:15pm PT
Gladjoo didn't write "SMART AS A TICK"

That would have been tacky.


Snicker.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Nov 17, 2017 - 08:26pm PT
Rope gun extraordinaire, great cook, funny guy and I swear, he knows everybody.

Climbed with him for a few days at the Creek, schooled me on real crack climbing. no guidebook required with him, he has it dialed and he knows all the gear needed on everything, incredible memory.

and he climbs now and then :)
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Nov 17, 2017 - 10:48pm PT
Good bump. Never climbed or met him. Jim's legacy reminds me of Beckey and many others. Driven, focused, modest. I'm glad he posts here. Very measured.

I don't give anyone celebrity status. He is a person that has persued the path he chose. Good on ya Jim.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Nov 18, 2017 - 02:25am PT
Jim is an all around great human being,
Mentor to many, and a top contributor to our community.

Thanks Jim 👊
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Nov 18, 2017 - 07:58am PT
SmoothDrool, you are a lucky ruminant indeed to have Jim for a climbing mentor.

Your stoke and his combined could fire up a whole caravan of climbers on the worst chosspile in the country.

You two deserve one another, mates.

Berg heil from Merced!
COR June 2014.  Donini, "The Man," and SmoothDrool, trying to look myt...
COR June 2014. Donini, "The Man," and SmoothDrool, trying to look mythic.
Credit: mouse from merced
Their first date.
xCon

Social climber
909
Nov 18, 2017 - 09:53am PT
still recall my first packpacker magazines and those marmot adds showing that platform theyd chopped out of a ridge high on latok...
Jim Clipper

climber
from: forests to tree farms
Nov 18, 2017 - 09:57am PT
definitely part Yeti
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Nov 18, 2017 - 03:36pm PT
Love that bouldering shot!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 18, 2017 - 03:45pm PT
Always ready for a climb, the harder the better.

E.L. "One"

Big Wall climber
Lancaster, California
Nov 18, 2017 - 04:17pm PT
Aside from his obvious climbing accomplishments, Jim is a quality human being. Thank you Jim!!

Cracko
kingtut

climber
Bolting Fiend
Nov 18, 2017 - 05:15pm PT
What can I say that hasn't been said?

So many legends around this virtual campfire, heroes of our youth and still today...an honor to get a few pearls of wisdom and history here, tales from the Golden Age of Heroes.

Something precious that once gone will be lost.....
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 19, 2017 - 12:08am PT
The year was 2010. The expedition members: Jim Donini, George Lowe, and, forgive me I've forgotten their names (I'm older than Jim), two Belgians (father and son).

The purpose: The Evolution Traverse in the Sierra Nevada

My dining room: Donini looking for his socks - my dog buried them in t...
My dining room: Donini looking for his socks - my dog buried them in the backyard as was her habit. I knew where to look.
Credit: Don Lauria
L to R: Son, father, Lowe, Donini on phone. On hike to Lamarck Col.
L to R: Son, father, Lowe, Donini on phone. On hike to Lamarck Col.
Credit: Don Lauria
The foursome approaching the col
The foursome approaching the col
Credit: Don Lauria
Back to my place after successful trip and, of course, some coffee.
Back to my place after successful trip and, of course, some coffee.
Credit: Don Lauria
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Nov 19, 2017 - 07:17am PT
Credit: Vic Damone
astray

Sport climber
where the heart was
Nov 19, 2017 - 07:57am PT
he is neither.
jim is a timelessly executed phase change,
occurring between man and myth.

he is the in-between.

man-to-myth. myth-to-man.

he slides back and forth, with effort, i'm sure.
between the two entities
providing us spectators a spectacular show.

it reminds me of the many times
when my eyes get excited upon a pair of breasts, exposed.
and as they, they eyes dart back and forth between the two
glorious domes, i only see and seek the cleavage.

so jim is akin to the cleavage. man is right breast.
myth is left breast.

i never was allowed to nurse.
instead i got force-fed a rubber nipple.
Jody

climber
Occupied Territory
Nov 19, 2017 - 09:45am PT
Climbing-Man

Politics-Myth
Leeprechaun

Social climber
Austin
Nov 19, 2017 - 03:00pm PT
I met the man in the Creek last month. Believe he was doing tequila shots in the Supercrack parking lot.
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Nov 19, 2017 - 10:34pm PT

Isn't that Fred Beckey?

Curt
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Nov 20, 2017 - 11:39am PT
^^^^* Please don’t insult Jim.

Moose
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Nov 26, 2017 - 07:27pm PT
Bump & run.

"This is the West, sir. When the legend becomes fact, print the legend."
--John Ford/1962.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Nov 26, 2017 - 07:39pm PT
Still innocent enough to think the Valley's climbed out...

And to be a lover of women

Forever young
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