Discussion Topic |
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Travis Haussener
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 19, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
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It's Friday sure I'm gonna die...and I couldn't find this elsewhere (maybe I just didn't look hard). I'm a youngen but so far two I'd put on there
Blue Sun (Indian Creek)
The Coffin (Wasatch)
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nopantsben
climber
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Jul 19, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
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pancake flake - 5.9 - the nose.
femme blanache - 5.13 - ceuse
the Wing - A3 - native son
flake pitch - 5.10 - grosse mauer, heiligkreuzkofel
arete paulette - 5.11 - berdorf
incredible handcrack - 5.9 - indian creek
the one with the roof - 5.10 - lightning bolt cracks - north six shooter
the ear - 5.11 - moses tower
tanti auguri - 5.11 - verdon
equinox - 5.12 - joshua tree
illusion dweller - 5.10 - joshua tree
figures on a landscape - 5.10 - joshua tree
waimea - 5.10 - rumney
pitch 30 - 5.10 - the nose
the nipple - A2 - the zodiac
the rurp pitch - A3 - tribal rite, el cap
who's gonna win the war? - A3 - native son
running man - 5.11 - red rocks
spring break - 5.11 - red rocks
diagonal crack - 5.11 - positron, gogarth
right wall - 5.11 - wales
left wall - 5.10 - wales
archangel - 5.9 - stanage
fern hill - 5.10 - peak district
the axe - 5.11 - cloggy, wales
pitch 1 - 5.11 - locker vom hocker, wetterstein
quergang - 5.10 - cassin , cima ovest
arabe dement - 5.9 - verdon
poincenneur de lila - 5.13 - ceuse
orecchio del pachidermo - 5.11 - valle dell'orco
blow job - 5.12 - zillertal
5 sterne - 5.13 - zillertal
flake pitch - 5.7 - hochgrubachspitze, wilder kaiser
pitch 3 - 5.11 - kaum zeit zu atmen, hochkönig
hand crack - 5.9 - the door, baffin island
banana crack - 5.10 - pilier cordier, chamonix
changing corners - 5.11 - astroman
sacherer crack - 5.10 - el cap
the door - 5.13 - cadarese
bobby brown - 5.12 - berdorf
albatross -5.11 - pfalz
fight gravity - 5.12 - frankenjura
byzanthium - 5.10 - llyn, wales
pacemaker - 5.11 - sharpnose point, england
snake dike - 5.5 - half dome
skorpion - 5.12 - dschungel, austria 46
chrystal ship - 5.13 - zillertal
butterballs - 5.11 - yosemite
speed of life - 5.11 - tuolomne
climbing thorugh the hole on the reg nwf - 5.10 - half dome
wow , writing that list was a good ride through memories! i could do 46 without much pausing to think, had to dig for the last 5.
i included the ratings to see what shows up most often, and it is 5.11. interesting.
archangel, fern hill, and waimea are also the only very short ones (10-12 m ), but those also have some of the best moves..
there is a bunch of long routes that i thought were super good, but where no pitch in particular stood out.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jul 19, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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The pitch above the Coral Sea on Native Son.
The middle Headwall pitch on Sunkist.
The pitch above The Carrot on Tribal Rite.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 19, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
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Coffman Craig, Top of Palm Springs Tramway.
A 160 foot long, one pitch climb.
"It's Always Something" 5.11
You do everything, Chimney to pure Friction
All at 5.11
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weezy
climber
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Jul 19, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
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damn, ben. how the hell do you get around so much with no pants on?
travis, you need to get on up to lone peak cirque. tons of great pitches to be had up there.
don't have time for 50 but i'm throwing the last pitch of Infared in the mix. the third pitch fist crack is awesome too. hell, the whole route kicks ass!
edit: also, the crux of Desert Shield in zion. brassies for daaaaaays...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 19, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
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Blue sun is one of the 50 "greatest" pitches I've climbed for sure. Will think of some & get back to u.
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crøtch
climber
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Jul 19, 2013 - 03:16pm PT
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Any pitch on Thin Ice or Airy Interlude, The Needles
Warmup Handcrack, Indian Creek,
Steve Carruthers, Indian Creek
Sinestra, Indian Creek
Pente, Indian Creek
Big Guy, Indian Creek
Quarter of a Man, Indian Creek
Broken Tooth, Indian Creek
Chimney Pitch (70m link), RNWF HD
1st Stoveleg pitch
Narrows, Steck Salathe
Ahab
Pitch after 1st traverse, NEB HCR
5 Gallon Buckets, Smith
Last Chance, Smith
The Space Between, Trout Creek
Exasperator, Squamish
Pitch off of Surf's Up Ledge, Snowpatch Spire
I'll probably never climb this pitch but man would I like to! Check out the corner at the 5 minute mark on this video. http://vimeo.com/52701319#
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Jul 19, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
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This is going to be individual lists of 50 favorite pitches, tailored to the ability and opportunity/awareness of each poster. I've actually done very little climbing in comparison to the world of opportunities, and will limit my submissions according to what I think might be considered (even if only briefly) for a global list:
P2 on Hawkman's Escape
P2 Reed's Direct
P (2,3,4?) on Snake Dike - the runout face to main Dike, and long runout Dike
the arete pitch on Traveler's Buttress, looking down the spine. Or maybe substitute with a similar (better) pitch on Via Aqua near Yosemite Falls.
Honestly though, I don't think anything I've climbed would make the top 50 pitches in the world, after the number of striking ridgelines and buttresses and faces and crack systems I've seen in pictures. If we're talking Yosemite Top 50, I've got a decent chance of having done at least one.
Edit: Doh, the Narrows! How could I forget! That should certainly be in an all-time classic list, maybe even on a global scale. Boo-ya, I got one.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 19, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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Dave's Deviation, Tahquitz
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 19, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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If you try you could find all 50 at Joshua Tree.
Todd is probably climbing one right now.
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newAAC
Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jul 19, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
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Wine and Roses, Fremont Canyon
Killer, Sinks
Supercrack and Foops, Gunks
Little Twin Owls finger crack, Lumpy
Whimsical Dreams, Turkey Rocks
Outer limits, Yo
Equinox, JTree
Black Dagger, the diamond
Dream of Wild Turkeys, Black Velvet, RR
......
gotta echo Quarter of a Man in the Creek
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Jul 19, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
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P1 of Coex 10d Gunks
Any pitch of Enduroman 11c Gunks
Road Warrior 11d Gunks
P2 of Mindbender WI6 Willouhgby
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jul 19, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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Less elite -
The last pitch of Outer Space (5.8 or 5.9) at Snow Creek Wall is just an amazing crack.
They Died Laughing (5.9) is one of my all-time favorites at Cathedral - along with The Layback pitch on Recompense (5.9) - and I hate laybacking on lead but I'll fight for that pitch every ascent. Let's not forget that jamcrack last pitch of Diedre (5.9), surprisingly not pumpy if you stem it.
I agree with Exasperator (5.10) at Squamish. Split Pillar (5.10) spit me out once, and I can't wait for another spin.
Love Unconquerable Crack (5.9) at Ragged. ShadowLark (5.9) at the Small Cliff, Ragged Edge (5.10), Subline (5.10), Reflections of FAll (5.9) East Peak and Pegasus (5.8) at Cathole
JT - Bird of Fire, Rubicon, Illusion Dweller. All perfect 10s for me.
The crux pitch of Red Dihedral (5.10)is gorgeous.
Pitch 3 of Tranquility (5.10) on the South Buttress of Whitehorse
Zambesi Hatchet Head (5.7) overlaps, face, crack, so much variety in such a small space.
The last pitch of High Exposure (5.6)- can you say fun while hyperventilating on an easy climb? And how many people line up for this fun?
Old Town (5.7) on Cadillac Mountain in Acadia - pink granite, near the sea, fabulous stemming
Solar (5.9) on Devil's Tower - both pitches!
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crøtch
climber
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Jul 19, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
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How did I forget
Thank God Ledge
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Jul 19, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
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1st pitch -- figures on a landscape - 5.10 - joshua tree
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nopantsben
climber
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Jul 19, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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i forgot the flakes pitch on the vampire in tahquitz! will edit my list now ;)
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Jul 19, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
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In the Needles:
Scirocco (done as one pitch)
Pyromania MUST be on this list!!!
Indian Creek:
Slice and Dice
Kalymnos:
Trella (before the stalagtite broke)
Taipan Wall in Australia MUST have at least one, but it would be a hard choice!
Are we talking single pitch climbs, or does a single pitch on a multipitch count?
Josh
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Nkane
Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
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Jul 19, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
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The best of the best - aesthetics, rock quality, movement, position:
The Line - P1&2 linked - 5.9 - Lovers Leap
Ants Line - 5.9 - The Trapps
Godzilla - 5.9 - Lower Town Wall
Bonnie's Roof - P1 - 5.9 - The Trapps
High Exposure - P2 - 5.6 - The Trapps
They Died Laughing - 5.9 - Cathedral Ledge
Scarface - 5.11 - Indian Creek
OZ - The Corner Pitch - 5.10 - Tuolomne
Pitches I haven't climbed, but included because come on!
The Predator - 5.13b - Rumney
K Cracks - 5.6 - Pingora
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Travis Haussener
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2013 - 05:33pm PT
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Great list so far, to edit any pitch counts although the "outside North America" stuff is very unfamiliar to me...keep em coming
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Barbarian
climber
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Jul 19, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
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Aunt Fanny's Pantry
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Jul 19, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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And of course the Salathe Headwall
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 19, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
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Gobi, you climbed all those??!?!
That cobra crack beta is crazy, lol'ing on that Atlantis shot too, yikes!!
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avid
Trad climber
Colorado Springs
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Jul 19, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
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Split Pillar, Squamish, 5.10.
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CalicoJack
climber
CA
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Jul 19, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
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Jolly Rancher, Indian Creek
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 19, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
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I took this list as ONE PITCH CLIMBS.....
But if we are going to just start listing great pitches thats a whole diff deal....
And look at the PIC of Atlantis that GOBI posted.... good example of how good climbs get messed up by added bolts.
The bolts the dude is belaying from was never the belay back when Atlantis was a new climb. The dude falling is doing it without to much rope in the system, as you can see.
The original Atlantis had the belayer sitting down about 15/20 feet lower, on gear, the bolt was to protect the lean out move.....
...OH well.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 19, 2013 - 09:00pm PT
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You guys are pissing me off 'cause I ain't never climbed any of these pitches
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Jul 19, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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5th pitch of the Cruise. Not the Scenic Cruise but the original one.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 19, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
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Triple Cracks, the Shield
2nd pitch of Anti-Jello Crack
Thin Ice, first pitch
Mark of Zorro, Zodiac
Crying Time Again, 2nd pitch
Figures, 1st pitch
Take your pick of Middle Cathedral
The Good Book, 2nd pitch
Central Pillar, 2nd pitch
Too many to even mention really. Barely scratched Josh and Idyllwild.
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weezy
climber
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Jul 19, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
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shut up, guyman. dry your panties out and contribute something besides whining.
second to last pitch splitter on shune's buttress
11b on rostrum
peg traverse on scenic cruise, lol
last pitch of triple overhangs (lone peak cirk)
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 20, 2013 - 12:24am PT
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The Flower of High Rank at Suicide (best done in one long pitch IMHO)
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Jul 20, 2013 - 04:00am PT
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Way Rambo - Indian Creek
Corner on OZ
Last pitch of Third Pillar of Dana
1st Off width pitch on the Rostrum
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Jul 20, 2013 - 09:45am PT
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I've got to admit to being a little biased, but I'll throw in Candyland at Phantom Spires.
Eric Barrett
Spokane, WA
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MisterE
climber
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Jul 20, 2013 - 10:18am PT
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Amazing list, Ben!
Open Book, Tahquitz
Wortley's Revenge, Smith Rock
Moonshine Dihedral, Smith Rock
Sea of Holes, Hueco Tanks
Saggitarius, Index
Clean Crack, Squamish
Wings of Desire, Skaha
Red M&M's, Frenchman's Coulee
ROTC Crack, Leavenworth
Thin Fingers, Index
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Jul 20, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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Perilous Journey.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 20, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
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I'd have to agreee with the last pitch of the Third Pillar. Simply awesome.
Also, i was considering Candyland too. Just so unique. There are also a couple of pitches of The Wasteland, at Cochise, that are really spectacular.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 20, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
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Walt Bailey Memorial on Devils Tower is the only one pitch route on the tower and is a great crack to boot. First pitch of Mean Green and second pitch of High on Boulder in Cody. Second pitch of Rubyatt in the needles is a beautiful one.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 20, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
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The last pitch on Steeple is a great pitch of 5.8. After doing two pitches through a huge chimney you come out at the top right side on a 200+ foot leaning block and you then have a full pitch of 5.8 with a 1000ft of exposure to go to get to the summit of one of the few fifth class summits in the Winds.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jul 20, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
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Butterballs
Wheat thin
Anticipation crux pitch
New D last pitch
Gripper
Enduro and Changing Corners on Aman.
Enema
By hook or crook in the meadows.
Bishops Terrace
Tales of Power
The Snaz (I know not a single pitch)
London Wall, Millstone Edge
A bunch of fun ones it the Sinks outside of Lander but I can't remember any names.
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hans b
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 20, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
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Off the top of my head, trying to pick some different areas:
Last pitch of Sunshine Crack, Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos
5.10 squeeze chimney bypass pitch, Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser, Bugaboos
Crux pitch of Pipeline, Squamish
Either of the last two pitches of Right Wing, Squamish
Illusion Dweller, Joshua Tree
The Fox, Red Rocks
MF Direct, Gunks
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jul 20, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
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Igor Unchained p3 - Needles
Hot Line p3 - Elephnt Rock
Gripper p3 - Arch Rock
Crying Time p3 - Lembert Dome
Table of Contents p1 - Stately Pleasure Dome
Get Slick - Stately Pleasure Dome
Gorgeous - Owens River Gorge
Lava Haul - Owens River Gorge
Alabama Hills Gang - Alabama Hills
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Jul 21, 2013 - 07:11am PT
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Limited mine to actual 1 pitch routes.
Of the top of my head:
Blonde Ambition 5.7 Sunset (TN)
Stan’s Crack 5.8 Sunset (TN)
Prerequisite for Excellence 5.8 T-wall (TN)
In Pursuit of excellence 5.9 T-Wall
Fly with the falcon 5.11 T-wall
Hands across America 5.12 T-wall
Shredded Wheat Rambling Bald (NC)
They Died Laughing 5.9 Cathedral (NH)
Nutcracker 5.9+ Cathedral (NH)
The Book of Solemnity 5.10a Cathedral (NH)
Ariation 5.11 Cathedral (NH)
Ant Killer Darpper’s Bluff (Southern Illinois)
Group Therapy Jackson Falls (Southern Illinois)
Who Needs Friends Jackson Falls (Southern Illinois)
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jul 21, 2013 - 08:59am PT
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I can't imagine trying to list THE 50 greatest pitches- the world is so big!
If I had to list pitches that, in my eyes, are artistically beautiful, it would still be difficult.
I tend to like climbing cracks and open books, and if forced to pick a few
which I've been on in different areas, (some of which I've seen listed here),
New Hampshire- 3rd pitch of Intimidation,Cathedral Ledge; 3rd pitch of the VMC Direct-Direct,Cannon; The Big Red,Wild River
Colorado- Anaconda, Garden of the Gods; Drumstick Direct, and Whimsical Dreams; Turkey Rocks
Indian Creek-So many but Super Crack and 4x4 crack impressed me
Yosemite- Middle dihedrals on NEB of HCR, Narrows pitch-SS, Meat Grinder,
so many there!
Wyoming,Wind River Range,--middle pitches on Golden Dihedral,Ambush Peak;
one pitch on the Snaz
Australia, Blue Mountains- Carthaginian, Amen Corner
England- Cenotaph Corner,Wales
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Jul 21, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
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j-tree has lots of single pitch climbs, here are a few near hidden valley camp ground.
decompensator of Lhasa direct 10.c 10.d
papa Woolsey 10.a/b
chalk up another one 10.a
blind ambition 11.a
the eye ?
sidewinder 10.b
dandelion 10.a
the flake 10.8
and some outside hvcg
dangling woo li master 10.a
Cleopatra 11.a
an eye for an eye and a route for a route 10.b
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jopay
climber
so.il
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Jul 21, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
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"Detox" 5.12a Jackson Falls
"Mary's Cookies" 5.11d Jackson Falls
"Fragile Egos" 5.10 Jackson Falls
"Group Therapy" 5.10c Jackson Falls
"Thomas Bear Memorial" 5.11a Cedar Bluffs
"Golden Locks" 5.8 T-Wall
"Werks Supp" 5.8 Eldorado Canyon
"School Yard Blues" 5.11a Cedar Bluffs
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 21, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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just about any route i put up in the meadows, rifle, potrero and josh..
HAHAHAHAHAAAAAAA
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Jul 21, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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Brushfreak Direct at Echo Edge no doubtably belongs on this list.
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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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Ditto on Lizard Marmalade Direct - that's one I was thinking of.
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climber007
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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dihedral pitch on OZ in Toulumne
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Gobi, that pic of Atlantis. Does it end well?
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Cragar
Trad climber
MSLA - MT
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Wicked West of the Witch
Hoodwink
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Al99
Trad climber
Bath, UK
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"Wide is Love" in the Verdon has to be in there somewhere. One of the most mind blowingly exposed single pitches of moderate climbing anywhere!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oh, that Atlantis, I thought you were talking about the Atlantis (5.11) on the North Rim of the Black.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Free climbing, of course:
Salathe' Headwall pitches. It doesn't get any better than that.
Some that come to mind as candidates for top 50:
Lizard Marmalade Direct, Mt Lemmon
Steve's Arete, Mt Lemmon
Tieranny, Obed
Running Man, Red Rock
p3 Our Father, Red Rock
The Fox, Red Rock
Equinox, JT
Black Diamond, JT
Eternal King, JT
Persian Room, JT
Separate Reality, YV
Energy Crisis, YV
Monster OW, YV
those fingercrack pitches on Lurking Fear
Butterballs, YV
Tips, YV
the long, linked 5.10 pitch(es) to the ledge on the Rostrum, YV
Champagne Jam, Sandrock
Fists of Fury, T-Wall
Chain Reaction, Smith
Darkness at Noon, Smith
crux pitch on Don Juan, Needles
Scirroco, Needles
Pirate, Suicide
Insomnia, Suicide
last pitch of Ishi/Quiet Desperation, Suicide
JCA's Wide World of Sport, Balch Camp
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Pitch 3 of "White Punks on Dope" (5.9), Voodoo Dome, the Needles, CA.
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ClimberDave
Trad climber
The LBC, CA
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1st pitch of Metal Physics at JT
Sail Away at JT
Loose Lady JT
Run for your Life at JT
Being There at Williamson Rock
Flower of a Higher Rank at Suicide
1st Pitch of Bastile Crack in Eldo Canyon
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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The first pitch of Hades (the pic with the short-shorts is from around 1982) still ranks as of the best - crazy variety, 150 feet long, exciting run outs, decently hard (5.12b), on diamond-hard rock.
JL
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spectreman
Trad climber
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Sinestra - IC
Aerospace done as one pitch - Eldo
Cheap Date - Lumpy
OZ - corner pitch
Crux pitch of All Too Obvious - RMNP
Airy Interlude traverse
Mr. Clean - DT
Fancy Free crux pitch
Belle Fourche Buttress - DT
One Way Sunset - DT
Max Factor - Vedauwoo
Spectreman - Vedauwoo
Black Dagger pitch - The Diamond
Earth Angel P2 - Dream Canyon
Doub-Griffith crux pitch - Eldo
P2 of Drifting - Red Rock
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Stuff''er
Trad climber
Putnam Valley, New York
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No Exist, Sky Top
Catatonic, Daks
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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The Roof pitch on Salathe and then each of the Headwall pitches.
Soul Sacrifice on LCR
Vendetta, the roof pitch
Peter Pan crux pitch (#2) El Cap
The roof pitch, Goodrich Pinnacle left
Last pitch, New Dimensions
First pitch, Crack of Doom
Right side of Gollum (it's only 1 pitch)
Principal pitch on 3rd Pillar of Dana
Crux on Basket Case
Hourglass Left, Pitch #1
English Breakfast Crack, crux pitch
Lover's Leap: Direct N face pitch 3 over the roofs.
Butterballs
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JohnnyG
climber
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Pervertical Sancturay, crux pitch, The Diamond
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Has anyone mentioned the pitch above the roof on the Shield? It's probably the best pitch on the whole climb.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Has anyone mentioned the pitch above the roof on the Shield?
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Now that is a surreal pitch if ever there was one, Mark. With the belayer dangling at the lip of the roof. I remember leading this pitch and using almost all my gear. The lead was like 166 feet long and Mike Lechlinski had to upclip from the anchor so I had enough rope to tie off. We were up there early on, in the mid 1970s, long before the thing was pin scarred and those cracks were spectacular. But this pitch felt like climbing on the moon, it was so far out there and unique for the time. Maybe the crack is all beaten out now but the position will always fan your flames. Jesus, what air!
Great call, Mark
JL
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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John,
The anchor is a little bit higher now but that pitch, aside from the very bottom, was never too difficult and simply made for placing truck stop nuts. I think for those reasons its very lightly scared.
BTW, aside from the roof, it's the most overhung pitch on the climb.
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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Surely DEW Line (11c) at Lake Louise has to make top 50.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mark,
You're talking about that steep A1? I was thinking about that too, but thought the Triple Cracks is more iconic and so mentioned that on my list. However, that's a great pitch. Piss easy but steep. I remember looking down between my legs and seeing my buddy belaying me from the portaledge and the huge sweep of El Cap beneath you. You climb it, just marveling at the position, the exposure but you're not freaked out of your mind because it's so mellow and, well, fun. Just Amazing.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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It was the positon, not the difficulty, that made that Shield pitch so dope. The crack swallowed nuts like crazy.
JL
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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+1 for Sinestra, IC
+1 for every part of Airy Interlude, Needles- especially linked in 2 pitches
Linking the last 200 Feet of Positive Vibrations, Hulk
Last Pitch of Vision Quest, IC
Stem Box Pitch of Rimshot, IC
Stem Corner on OZ, TM
The second pitch of The Crucifix, YV
The 2nd and 5th pitches of Western Front, Russell
If you can solo it- does it count as a single pitch? That would open up some options
Hate to talk smack- but Blue Sun???? You need to get out more
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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A list of outstanding pitches in the Tetons might include:
Open Book, Garnet Canyon, Pitch 3
Irene's Arete, Garnet Canyon, Hanging Tooth Pitch
Lower Exum Ridge, Black Face Pitch
The Snaz, Death Canyon, Pitch 6
The South Buttress routes on Mt. Moran have a multitude of great pitches...Pitch 3 and Great Traverse pitch of South Buttress Right are unforgettable ...
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Fishcake
Trad climber
SANTA ANA
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I will add more later but, so far, my favorite single pitch climb (and probably my favorite pitch ever) is:
Illusion Dweller 10b, Joshua Tree National Park
Other notables:
EVERY pitch (though the chimney pitch is especially memorable) on Whodunit 5.9, Tahquitz
P1 and P2 on Long Climb (with P1 Wong variation) 5.8, Tahquitz
Sail Away 5.7, Joshua Tree
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Gunkie
Trad climber
East Coast US
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Random great pitches I've led and can remember that feeling of being totally in the moment....
Last pitch of Inferno, Whitehorse Ledge, New Hampshire
Arch pitch on Fruit Cup Wall, Cannon Mtn, New Hampshire
Pipe pitch (when it still had the pipe) on Whitney-Gilman Ridge, New Hampshire
Linking all of Disneyland into one pitch, Gunks
Linking all of Son of Easy O into one pitch, Gunks
Last pitch of Westward Ha, Gunks
Last pitch of Cruise Control, Gunks
Linking all of Slip of Fools into one pitch, Gunks
6th pitch of the Prow, Washington's Column Yosemite Valley
First Zig-Zag pitch on RNWFHD, Yosemite Valley
Last Zig-Zag pitch on RNWFHD, Yosemite Valley
Boot Flake pitch on the Nose, El Cap Yosemite Valley
Last pitch of the Nose, El Cap Yosemite Valley
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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F*#kin A, no love for The Forks???
Pick one and add it to the list.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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i remember this being lots of fun, and with handcracks in the back on both sides, just seemed like a dream come true. cresent crack. direct route on half dome
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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For you jefe, Sail away, & Davidson dihedral ... And Paradise Lost... P-Forks
And, trying to stick to single pitch ;
Jump back jack crack. g mtn
Dominatrix w/0 mercy stronghold
Matricide, mt lemon
So many,Indian Creek?
siniestra for sure
Also,
9 lives
quarter of a man,
Stout
Black Corner
The Big Guy
Mega bucks,
Gurkha
T bones tonight
Spectreman Vedauwoo
Squat
Eds rack
Horns mother
Forever war (though incomplete, for me)
Jihad ". "
Fremont canyon
Of wine and roses
deto
Hollywood and vine
Walt Bailey
Tad
Danes Macabre
Mr clean,
El mat
The meadows
Blues riff
death crack
Black angel
Memo from Lloyd
The valley
Bad ass momma
Separate reality
Owl roof
Tales of power
Positively fourth street
Josh
Equinox
Morongo man
Castaways
Monkey roof
Wangerbanger
Spiderline
Throbbing gristle
Suicide
Paisano roof
Flower of a nigh rank
Insomnia
Mother superior
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The last pitch you did that made you smile, followed by......
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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A pitch that was special for me for a long time was a pendulum into the Grey Bands on the Triple Direct. At the end of the swing I on landed on what I remembered as a face of quartz crystals, like hand sized, that I climbed up.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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+1 Donini! I feel like I say "This is my new favorite pitch!" a few times each month!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Crimson Cringe Yos
Mentor VRG
Oracle Sonoma
Privelage du Serpant Ceuse
Strawberries Chateau Ver
Big Bobs Big Wedge Josh
Mad World pitch 7 Cal Dome
Stove Legs
Mr. Natural Yos
Enduro Corner A Man
Wall of the Worlds pith 1 Cal Domes
Salathe Headwall
Blind Faith pitch 1
Bad ass momma
Been on all, done most
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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How about the second and third pitches of Corrugation Corner at the Leap. The Step across on the Mace, or pitch 4 of the Snaz.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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The last pitch of Outer Space
Yeah! But surely you mean the one in Eldorado Canyon.......?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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-Crystal pitch, West Face on El Cap
-P.2, West Buttress "" ""
(that Peter Pan pitch is pretty brilliant also)
-40m of Outer Limits to left anchor
-hand crack high up on the Naked Edge
-hand crack high on the Rostrum
-hard to argue with Sinestra
-traverse pitch, Fiddler on the Roof, Red Rocks
-the topout pitch on Tis-sa-ack will probably go free, and if you pull that one off you should probably quit climbing then and there.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Oh, and who can forget the overhanging broccoli-head pitch way off the deck on Lord of the Thais??
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WBraun
climber
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Greatest pitches
The fastball, the knuckle ball. the slider, the curve ball, and the side arm .....
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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I like a lot of the ones listed, I also would mention the face pitch on Hobbit Book in Tuolumne.
Would like to get back on that.
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splitter
Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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enjoimx - first Off width pitch on the Rostrum the wide pitch pitch a couple pitches after the crux (third) pitch? the fifth pitch, i think!
led that pitch bitd before cams were widely being used. or before i could afford them, anyway. i thought it was stellar also.
~Pearly Gates~ 5.10 (Tahquitz)
its a double overhanging layback one pitch variation to the Traitor Horn crux pitch. super exposure. once again, way bold lead bitd before cams and chit!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Werner, I find it poor form that you would not include the change up or the sinker on your list.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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1st pitch of "Knuckle Buster" (5.11a), Indian Canyon, Yosemite Valley.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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The last pitch of Lost Arrow Tip, 5.12b. Location second to none on earth.
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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Nov 20, 2013 - 04:24am PT
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Now that is one hell of a 5:10 pitch.
Seen it climbed.
Can't wait to climb it myself.
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vmcgal
Trad climber
New Paltz, NY
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Nov 20, 2013 - 09:13am PT
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Linking pitches in the Gunks:
Birdland 5.8
Fat City Direct 10d
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ruppell
climber
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Nov 20, 2013 - 09:59am PT
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Speaking of the Gunks. How about Erect Direction. My vote for the single best pitch of 5.10 in the Gunks. That's with skipping that silly hanging belay. Birdie Party in one pitch to the top is also pretty sweet.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 20, 2013 - 10:38am PT
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Has anybody said Wet Kiss yet?
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Nov 20, 2013 - 10:42am PT
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What about Black Tide? That was the most fun I've ever had climbing.
And Thunderbolt Peak.
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steve shea
climber
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Nov 20, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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Stovelegs
Crack of Fear, crux
Jump Back Jack Crack
many pitches on the Diamond
Crack of Doom
Horn's Mother
Supercrack
Traverse of the Gods
Summit Dihedral on Pingora SF
etc
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Dec 25, 2013 - 11:05am PT
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Bump
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| Messages 1 - 97 of total 97 in this topic |
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The first pitch of Hades at Suicide
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