50 greatest single pitches

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Travis Haussener

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 19, 2013 - 10:04am PT
It's Friday sure I'm gonna die...and I couldn't find this elsewhere (maybe I just didn't look hard). I'm a youngen but so far two I'd put on there

Blue Sun (Indian Creek)
The Coffin (Wasatch)
nopantsben

climber
Jul 19, 2013 - 10:42am PT
pancake flake - 5.9 - the nose.
femme blanache - 5.13 - ceuse
the Wing - A3 - native son
flake pitch - 5.10 - grosse mauer, heiligkreuzkofel
arete paulette - 5.11 - berdorf
incredible handcrack - 5.9 - indian creek
the one with the roof - 5.10 - lightning bolt cracks - north six shooter
the ear - 5.11 - moses tower
tanti auguri - 5.11 - verdon
equinox - 5.12 - joshua tree
illusion dweller - 5.10 - joshua tree
figures on a landscape - 5.10 - joshua tree
waimea - 5.10 - rumney
pitch 30 - 5.10 - the nose
the nipple - A2 - the zodiac
the rurp pitch - A3 - tribal rite, el cap
who's gonna win the war? - A3 - native son
running man - 5.11 - red rocks
spring break - 5.11 - red rocks
diagonal crack - 5.11 - positron, gogarth
right wall - 5.11 - wales
left wall - 5.10 - wales
archangel - 5.9 - stanage
fern hill - 5.10 - peak district
the axe - 5.11 - cloggy, wales
pitch 1 - 5.11 - locker vom hocker, wetterstein
quergang - 5.10 - cassin , cima ovest
arabe dement - 5.9 - verdon
poincenneur de lila - 5.13 - ceuse
orecchio del pachidermo - 5.11 - valle dell'orco
blow job - 5.12 - zillertal
5 sterne - 5.13 - zillertal
flake pitch - 5.7 - hochgrubachspitze, wilder kaiser
pitch 3 - 5.11 - kaum zeit zu atmen, hochkönig
hand crack - 5.9 - the door, baffin island
banana crack - 5.10 - pilier cordier, chamonix
changing corners - 5.11 - astroman
sacherer crack - 5.10 - el cap
the door - 5.13 - cadarese
bobby brown - 5.12 - berdorf
albatross -5.11 - pfalz
fight gravity - 5.12 - frankenjura
byzanthium - 5.10 - llyn, wales
pacemaker - 5.11 - sharpnose point, england
snake dike - 5.5 - half dome
skorpion - 5.12 - dschungel, austria 46
chrystal ship - 5.13 - zillertal
butterballs - 5.11 - yosemite
speed of life - 5.11 - tuolomne
climbing thorugh the hole on the reg nwf - 5.10 - half dome

wow , writing that list was a good ride through memories! i could do 46 without much pausing to think, had to dig for the last 5.
i included the ratings to see what shows up most often, and it is 5.11. interesting.
archangel, fern hill, and waimea are also the only very short ones (10-12 m ), but those also have some of the best moves..
there is a bunch of long routes that i thought were super good, but where no pitch in particular stood out.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 19, 2013 - 10:47am PT
The pitch above the Coral Sea on Native Son.
The middle Headwall pitch on Sunkist.
The pitch above The Carrot on Tribal Rite.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 19, 2013 - 10:48am PT
Coffman Craig, Top of Palm Springs Tramway.

A 160 foot long, one pitch climb.

"It's Always Something" 5.11

You do everything, Chimney to pure Friction

All at 5.11
Doug Tomczik

climber
Bishop
Jul 19, 2013 - 11:31am PT

 The first pitch of Hades at Suicide
 The Phoenix
weezy

climber
Jul 19, 2013 - 11:33am PT
damn, ben. how the hell do you get around so much with no pants on?

travis, you need to get on up to lone peak cirque. tons of great pitches to be had up there.

don't have time for 50 but i'm throwing the last pitch of Infared in the mix. the third pitch fist crack is awesome too. hell, the whole route kicks ass!

edit: also, the crux of Desert Shield in zion. brassies for daaaaaays...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 19, 2013 - 11:50am PT
Blue sun is one of the 50 "greatest" pitches I've climbed for sure. Will think of some & get back to u.
crøtch

climber
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
Any pitch on Thin Ice or Airy Interlude, The Needles
Warmup Handcrack, Indian Creek,
Steve Carruthers, Indian Creek
Sinestra, Indian Creek
Pente, Indian Creek
Big Guy, Indian Creek
Quarter of a Man, Indian Creek
Broken Tooth, Indian Creek
Chimney Pitch (70m link), RNWF HD
1st Stoveleg pitch
Narrows, Steck Salathe
Ahab
Pitch after 1st traverse, NEB HCR
5 Gallon Buckets, Smith
Last Chance, Smith
The Space Between, Trout Creek
Exasperator, Squamish
Pitch off of Surf's Up Ledge, Snowpatch Spire

I'll probably never climb this pitch but man would I like to! Check out the corner at the 5 minute mark on this video. http://vimeo.com/52701319#
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
This is going to be individual lists of 50 favorite pitches, tailored to the ability and opportunity/awareness of each poster. I've actually done very little climbing in comparison to the world of opportunities, and will limit my submissions according to what I think might be considered (even if only briefly) for a global list:

P2 on Hawkman's Escape
P2 Reed's Direct
P (2,3,4?) on Snake Dike - the runout face to main Dike, and long runout Dike
the arete pitch on Traveler's Buttress, looking down the spine. Or maybe substitute with a similar (better) pitch on Via Aqua near Yosemite Falls.


Honestly though, I don't think anything I've climbed would make the top 50 pitches in the world, after the number of striking ridgelines and buttresses and faces and crack systems I've seen in pictures. If we're talking Yosemite Top 50, I've got a decent chance of having done at least one.

Edit: Doh, the Narrows! How could I forget! That should certainly be in an all-time classic list, maybe even on a global scale. Boo-ya, I got one.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
Dave's Deviation, Tahquitz
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jul 19, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
If you try you could find all 50 at Joshua Tree.

Todd is probably climbing one right now.
Ian Jewell

climber
Jul 19, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
1 fastball
2 curveball
3 slider
4 cutter
5 knuckleball
6 change up
newAAC

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
Jul 19, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
Wine and Roses, Fremont Canyon
Killer, Sinks
Supercrack and Foops, Gunks
Little Twin Owls finger crack, Lumpy
Whimsical Dreams, Turkey Rocks
Outer limits, Yo
Equinox, JTree
Black Dagger, the diamond
Dream of Wild Turkeys, Black Velvet, RR
......

gotta echo Quarter of a Man in the Creek
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jul 19, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
the next ones i do..
Dropline

Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
Jul 19, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
P1 of Coex 10d Gunks
Any pitch of Enduroman 11c Gunks
Road Warrior 11d Gunks

P2 of Mindbender WI6 Willouhgby
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Jul 19, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
Less elite -

The last pitch of Outer Space (5.8 or 5.9) at Snow Creek Wall is just an amazing crack.

They Died Laughing (5.9) is one of my all-time favorites at Cathedral - along with The Layback pitch on Recompense (5.9) - and I hate laybacking on lead but I'll fight for that pitch every ascent. Let's not forget that jamcrack last pitch of Diedre (5.9), surprisingly not pumpy if you stem it.

I agree with Exasperator (5.10) at Squamish. Split Pillar (5.10) spit me out once, and I can't wait for another spin.

Love Unconquerable Crack (5.9) at Ragged. ShadowLark (5.9) at the Small Cliff, Ragged Edge (5.10), Subline (5.10), Reflections of FAll (5.9) East Peak and Pegasus (5.8) at Cathole

JT - Bird of Fire, Rubicon, Illusion Dweller. All perfect 10s for me.

The crux pitch of Red Dihedral (5.10)is gorgeous.

Pitch 3 of Tranquility (5.10) on the South Buttress of Whitehorse

Zambesi Hatchet Head (5.7) overlaps, face, crack, so much variety in such a small space.

The last pitch of High Exposure (5.6)- can you say fun while hyperventilating on an easy climb? And how many people line up for this fun?

Old Town (5.7) on Cadillac Mountain in Acadia - pink granite, near the sea, fabulous stemming

Solar (5.9) on Devil's Tower - both pitches!

crøtch

climber
Jul 19, 2013 - 01:41pm PT
How did I forget

Thank God Ledge
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Jul 19, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
1st pitch -- figures on a landscape - 5.10 - joshua tree
nopantsben

climber
Jul 19, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
i forgot the flakes pitch on the vampire in tahquitz! will edit my list now ;)
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jul 19, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
In the Needles:

Scirocco (done as one pitch)
Pyromania MUST be on this list!!!

Indian Creek:

Slice and Dice

Kalymnos:

Trella (before the stalagtite broke)

Taipan Wall in Australia MUST have at least one, but it would be a hard choice!

Are we talking single pitch climbs, or does a single pitch on a multipitch count?

Josh
Nkane

Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
Jul 19, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
The best of the best - aesthetics, rock quality, movement, position:

The Line - P1&2 linked - 5.9 - Lovers Leap
Ants Line - 5.9 - The Trapps
Godzilla - 5.9 - Lower Town Wall
Bonnie's Roof - P1 - 5.9 - The Trapps
High Exposure - P2 - 5.6 - The Trapps
They Died Laughing - 5.9 - Cathedral Ledge
Scarface - 5.11 - Indian Creek
OZ - The Corner Pitch - 5.10 - Tuolomne


Pitches I haven't climbed, but included because come on!

The Predator - 5.13b - Rumney
K Cracks - 5.6 - Pingora
Travis Haussener

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Great list so far, to edit any pitch counts although the "outside North America" stuff is very unfamiliar to me...keep em coming
My GF on Blue Sun
My GF on Blue Sun
Credit: Travis Haussener


Barbarian

climber
Jul 19, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
Aunt Fanny's Pantry
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Jul 19, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
Cobra Crack
Cobra Crack
Credit: Gobi

The crux pitch on Atlantis
The crux pitch on Atlantis
Credit: Gobi

The Backbone <br/>
photo by Brian Mosbough
The Backbone
photo by Brian Mosbough
Credit: Gobi

Necronomicon <br/>
photo by Eliza Earle
Necronomicon
photo by Eliza Earle
Credit: Gobi

The A1 Beauty
The A1 Beauty
Credit: Gobi



And of course the Salathe Headwall

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 19, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
Gobi, you climbed all those??!?!

That cobra crack beta is crazy, lol'ing on that Atlantis shot too, yikes!!
avid

Trad climber
Colorado Springs
Jul 19, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
Split Pillar, Squamish, 5.10.

Split Pillar
Split Pillar
Credit: avid
CalicoJack

climber
CA
Jul 19, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
Jolly Rancher, Indian Creek
Credit: CalicoJack
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 19, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
I took this list as ONE PITCH CLIMBS.....

But if we are going to just start listing great pitches thats a whole diff deal....



And look at the PIC of Atlantis that GOBI posted.... good example of how good climbs get messed up by added bolts.

The bolts the dude is belaying from was never the belay back when Atlantis was a new climb. The dude falling is doing it without to much rope in the system, as you can see.

The original Atlantis had the belayer sitting down about 15/20 feet lower, on gear, the bolt was to protect the lean out move.....

...OH well.

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jul 19, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
You guys are pissing me off 'cause I ain't never climbed any of these pitches

philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jul 19, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
5th pitch of the Cruise. Not the Scenic Cruise but the original one.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 19, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
Triple Cracks, the Shield
2nd pitch of Anti-Jello Crack
Thin Ice, first pitch
Mark of Zorro, Zodiac
Crying Time Again, 2nd pitch
Figures, 1st pitch
Take your pick of Middle Cathedral
The Good Book, 2nd pitch
Central Pillar, 2nd pitch

Too many to even mention really. Barely scratched Josh and Idyllwild.
weezy

climber
Jul 19, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
shut up, guyman. dry your panties out and contribute something besides whining.

second to last pitch splitter on shune's buttress
11b on rostrum
peg traverse on scenic cruise, lol
last pitch of triple overhangs (lone peak cirk)
froodish

Social climber
Portland, Oregon
Jul 19, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
The Flower of High Rank at Suicide (best done in one long pitch IMHO)
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
Jul 20, 2013 - 01:00am PT
Way Rambo - Indian Creek
Corner on OZ
Last pitch of Third Pillar of Dana
1st Off width pitch on the Rostrum
Ghoulwe

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
Jul 20, 2013 - 06:45am PT
I've got to admit to being a little biased, but I'll throw in Candyland at Phantom Spires.

Eric Barrett
Spokane, WA
MisterE

climber
Jul 20, 2013 - 07:18am PT
Amazing list, Ben!

Open Book, Tahquitz

Wortley's Revenge, Smith Rock

Moonshine Dihedral, Smith Rock

Sea of Holes, Hueco Tanks

Saggitarius, Index

Clean Crack, Squamish

Wings of Desire, Skaha

Red M&M's, Frenchman's Coulee

ROTC Crack, Leavenworth

Thin Fingers, Index
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Jul 20, 2013 - 08:24am PT
Amazing how many of the greatest single pitches are in North America.

We must have been singularly blessed!
x15x15

climber
Jul 20, 2013 - 08:33am PT
insomnia... at least its one of my greatest.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Jul 20, 2013 - 08:37am PT
Perilous Journey.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jul 20, 2013 - 09:22am PT
I'd have to agreee with the last pitch of the Third Pillar. Simply awesome.

Also, i was considering Candyland too. Just so unique. There are also a couple of pitches of The Wasteland, at Cochise, that are really spectacular.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 20, 2013 - 09:28am PT
Walt Bailey Memorial on Devils Tower is the only one pitch route on the tower and is a great crack to boot. First pitch of Mean Green and second pitch of High on Boulder in Cody. Second pitch of Rubyatt in the needles is a beautiful one.
Walt Bailey takes a line off the top of the shoulder in the center to ...
Walt Bailey takes a line off the top of the shoulder in the center to the bottom of the meadows in one long fingers to hands pitch.
Credit: mike m
Second pitch of Rubyatt great wide crack in an absolutely beautiful se...
Second pitch of Rubyatt great wide crack in an absolutely beautiful setting.
Credit: mike m
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 20, 2013 - 09:55am PT
Credit: mike m
The last pitch on Steeple is a great pitch of 5.8. After doing two pitches through a huge chimney you come out at the top right side on a 200+ foot leaning block and you then have a full pitch of 5.8 with a 1000ft of exposure to go to get to the summit of one of the few fifth class summits in the Winds.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Jul 20, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
Butterballs
Wheat thin
Anticipation crux pitch
New D last pitch
Gripper
Enduro and Changing Corners on Aman.
Enema
By hook or crook in the meadows.
Bishops Terrace
Tales of Power
The Snaz (I know not a single pitch)
London Wall, Millstone Edge
A bunch of fun ones it the Sinks outside of Lander but I can't remember any names.



hans b

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Jul 20, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Off the top of my head, trying to pick some different areas:

Last pitch of Sunshine Crack, Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos
5.10 squeeze chimney bypass pitch, Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser, Bugaboos
Crux pitch of Pipeline, Squamish
Either of the last two pitches of Right Wing, Squamish
Illusion Dweller, Joshua Tree
The Fox, Red Rocks
MF Direct, Gunks
Eric Beck

Sport climber
Bishop, California
Jul 20, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
Igor Unchained p3 - Needles
Hot Line p3 - Elephnt Rock
Gripper p3 - Arch Rock
Crying Time p3 - Lembert Dome
Table of Contents p1 - Stately Pleasure Dome
Get Slick - Stately Pleasure Dome
Gorgeous - Owens River Gorge
Lava Haul - Owens River Gorge
Alabama Hills Gang - Alabama Hills
Guangzhou

Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
Jul 21, 2013 - 04:11am PT
Limited mine to actual 1 pitch routes.

Of the top of my head:

Blonde Ambition 5.7 Sunset (TN)
Stan’s Crack 5.8 Sunset (TN)
Prerequisite for Excellence 5.8 T-wall (TN)
In Pursuit of excellence 5.9 T-Wall
Fly with the falcon 5.11 T-wall
Hands across America 5.12 T-wall
Shredded Wheat Rambling Bald (NC)
They Died Laughing 5.9 Cathedral (NH)
Nutcracker 5.9+ Cathedral (NH)
The Book of Solemnity 5.10a Cathedral (NH)
Ariation 5.11 Cathedral (NH)
Ant Killer Darpper’s Bluff (Southern Illinois)
Group Therapy Jackson Falls (Southern Illinois)
Who Needs Friends Jackson Falls (Southern Illinois)


steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jul 21, 2013 - 05:59am PT
I can't imagine trying to list THE 50 greatest pitches- the world is so big!

If I had to list pitches that, in my eyes, are artistically beautiful, it would still be difficult.

I tend to like climbing cracks and open books, and if forced to pick a few
which I've been on in different areas, (some of which I've seen listed here),

New Hampshire- 3rd pitch of Intimidation,Cathedral Ledge; 3rd pitch of the VMC Direct-Direct,Cannon; The Big Red,Wild River

Colorado- Anaconda, Garden of the Gods; Drumstick Direct, and Whimsical Dreams; Turkey Rocks

Indian Creek-So many but Super Crack and 4x4 crack impressed me

Yosemite- Middle dihedrals on NEB of HCR, Narrows pitch-SS, Meat Grinder,
so many there!

Wyoming,Wind River Range,--middle pitches on Golden Dihedral,Ambush Peak;
one pitch on the Snaz

Australia, Blue Mountains- Carthaginian, Amen Corner

England- Cenotaph Corner,Wales
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jul 21, 2013 - 07:10am PT
mike m I've led that Steeple Peak pitch to the summit. Amazing how you 'pass through the mountain' on the chimney pitch and come out the other side, Tolkein-style.

Many years later I flew directly over the South Lake cirque in winter and gazed directly down upon that pyramidal summit. I wanted to grab my seat mate, shake her and make her look out the window... 'you see that. DO YOU SEE THAT? I CLIMBED THAT!!!'

Haha, but I din't know her.

DMT
Sioux Juan

Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
Jul 21, 2013 - 09:25am PT
j-tree has lots of single pitch climbs, here are a few near hidden valley camp ground.
decompensator of Lhasa direct 10.c 10.d
papa Woolsey 10.a/b
chalk up another one 10.a
blind ambition 11.a
the eye ?
sidewinder 10.b
dandelion 10.a
the flake 10.8
and some outside hvcg
dangling woo li master 10.a
Cleopatra 11.a
an eye for an eye and a route for a route 10.b
jopay

climber
so.il
Jul 21, 2013 - 10:06am PT
"Detox" 5.12a Jackson Falls
"Mary's Cookies" 5.11d Jackson Falls
"Fragile Egos" 5.10 Jackson Falls
"Group Therapy" 5.10c Jackson Falls
"Thomas Bear Memorial" 5.11a Cedar Bluffs
"Golden Locks" 5.8 T-Wall
"Werks Supp" 5.8 Eldorado Canyon
"School Yard Blues" 5.11a Cedar Bluffs
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Jul 21, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
just about any route i put up in the meadows, rifle, potrero and josh..
HAHAHAHAHAAAAAAA
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jul 21, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
Brushfreak Direct at Echo Edge no doubtably belongs on this list.
PotatoHead

Trad climber
Nunya,ID
Jul 21, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
Davy Jones Locker - .12 Needles

Lizard Marmalade Direct - Mt.Lemmon 10+
Steven Amter

climber
Washington, DC
Aug 5, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Ditto on Lizard Marmalade Direct - that's one I was thinking of.
climber007

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Aug 5, 2013 - 11:21am PT
dihedral pitch on OZ in Toulumne
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 5, 2013 - 11:22am PT
Gobi, that pic of Atlantis. Does it end well?
Cragar

Trad climber
MSLA - MT
Aug 5, 2013 - 11:29am PT
Wicked West of the Witch
Hoodwink
Al99

Trad climber
Bath, UK
Aug 5, 2013 - 11:30am PT
"Wide is Love" in the Verdon has to be in there somewhere. One of the most mind blowingly exposed single pitches of moderate climbing anywhere!
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Aug 5, 2013 - 11:42am PT


"If you try you could find all 50 at Joshua Tree."...

Talk about LIMITING...

locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Aug 5, 2013 - 11:51am PT


LOL!!!...

"the flake 10.8"...

HUH???...
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Aug 5, 2013 - 11:51am PT
Oh, that Atlantis, I thought you were talking about the Atlantis (5.11) on the North Rim of the Black.
10th pitch Atlantis 5.11 North Rim of Black Canyon &#40;Courtesy Jim H...
10th pitch Atlantis 5.11 North Rim of Black Canyon (Courtesy Jim Howe and MP.com)
Credit: ydpl8s
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Aug 5, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
Free climbing, of course:

Salathe' Headwall pitches. It doesn't get any better than that.


Some that come to mind as candidates for top 50:

Lizard Marmalade Direct, Mt Lemmon
Steve's Arete, Mt Lemmon
Tieranny, Obed
Running Man, Red Rock
p3 Our Father, Red Rock
The Fox, Red Rock
Equinox, JT
Black Diamond, JT
Eternal King, JT
Persian Room, JT
Separate Reality, YV
Energy Crisis, YV
Monster OW, YV
those fingercrack pitches on Lurking Fear
Butterballs, YV
Tips, YV
the long, linked 5.10 pitch(es) to the ledge on the Rostrum, YV
Champagne Jam, Sandrock
Fists of Fury, T-Wall
Chain Reaction, Smith
Darkness at Noon, Smith
crux pitch on Don Juan, Needles
Scirroco, Needles
Pirate, Suicide
Insomnia, Suicide
last pitch of Ishi/Quiet Desperation, Suicide
JCA's Wide World of Sport, Balch Camp


PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Aug 5, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
Unrelenting 5.9 fingers on pitch 3 of "White Punks on Dope" &#40;5.9&#...
Unrelenting 5.9 fingers on pitch 3 of "White Punks on Dope" (5.9), Voodoo Dome, the Needles, CA.
Credit: PAUL SOUZA

Pitch 3 of "White Punks on Dope" (5.9), Voodoo Dome, the Needles, CA.
ClimberDave

Trad climber
The LBC, CA
Aug 5, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
1st pitch of Metal Physics at JT
Sail Away at JT
Loose Lady JT
Run for your Life at JT
Being There at Williamson Rock
Flower of a Higher Rank at Suicide
1st Pitch of Bastile Crack in Eldo Canyon
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Aug 5, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
Credit: Largo

The first pitch of Hades (the pic with the short-shorts is from around 1982) still ranks as of the best - crazy variety, 150 feet long, exciting run outs, decently hard (5.12b), on diamond-hard rock.

JL
spectreman

Trad climber
Aug 5, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
Sinestra - IC
Aerospace done as one pitch - Eldo
Cheap Date - Lumpy
OZ - corner pitch
Crux pitch of All Too Obvious - RMNP
Airy Interlude traverse
Mr. Clean - DT
Fancy Free crux pitch
Belle Fourche Buttress - DT
One Way Sunset - DT
Max Factor - Vedauwoo
Spectreman - Vedauwoo
Black Dagger pitch - The Diamond
Earth Angel P2 - Dream Canyon
Doub-Griffith crux pitch - Eldo
P2 of Drifting - Red Rock
Stuff''er

Trad climber
Putnam Valley, New York
Aug 5, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
No Exist, Sky Top
Catatonic, Daks
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Aug 5, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
The Roof pitch on Salathe and then each of the Headwall pitches.
Soul Sacrifice on LCR
Vendetta, the roof pitch
Peter Pan crux pitch (#2) El Cap
The roof pitch, Goodrich Pinnacle left
Last pitch, New Dimensions
First pitch, Crack of Doom
Right side of Gollum (it's only 1 pitch)
Principal pitch on 3rd Pillar of Dana
Crux on Basket Case
Hourglass Left, Pitch #1
English Breakfast Crack, crux pitch
Lover's Leap: Direct N face pitch 3 over the roofs.
Butterballs
JohnnyG

climber
Aug 8, 2013 - 09:08am PT
Pervertical Sancturay, crux pitch, The Diamond
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 8, 2013 - 09:10am PT
Has anyone mentioned the pitch above the roof on the Shield? It's probably the best pitch on the whole climb.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Aug 8, 2013 - 10:23am PT
Has anyone mentioned the pitch above the roof on the Shield?
---


Now that is a surreal pitch if ever there was one, Mark. With the belayer dangling at the lip of the roof. I remember leading this pitch and using almost all my gear. The lead was like 166 feet long and Mike Lechlinski had to upclip from the anchor so I had enough rope to tie off. We were up there early on, in the mid 1970s, long before the thing was pin scarred and those cracks were spectacular. But this pitch felt like climbing on the moon, it was so far out there and unique for the time. Maybe the crack is all beaten out now but the position will always fan your flames. Jesus, what air!

Great call, Mark

JL
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 8, 2013 - 10:42am PT
John,

The anchor is a little bit higher now but that pitch, aside from the very bottom, was never too difficult and simply made for placing truck stop nuts. I think for those reasons its very lightly scared.

BTW, aside from the roof, it's the most overhung pitch on the climb.

A vertical pano of two of Tom's photos.
A vertical pano of two of Tom's photos.
Credit: Tom Evans
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
Aug 8, 2013 - 11:54am PT
Surely DEW Line (11c) at Lake Louise has to make top 50.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Aug 8, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
Mark,
You're talking about that steep A1? I was thinking about that too, but thought the Triple Cracks is more iconic and so mentioned that on my list. However, that's a great pitch. Piss easy but steep. I remember looking down between my legs and seeing my buddy belaying me from the portaledge and the huge sweep of El Cap beneath you. You climb it, just marveling at the position, the exposure but you're not freaked out of your mind because it's so mellow and, well, fun. Just Amazing.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Aug 8, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
It was the positon, not the difficulty, that made that Shield pitch so dope. The crack swallowed nuts like crazy.

JL
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Aug 8, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
+1 for Sinestra, IC

+1 for every part of Airy Interlude, Needles- especially linked in 2 pitches

Linking the last 200 Feet of Positive Vibrations, Hulk

Last Pitch of Vision Quest, IC

Stem Box Pitch of Rimshot, IC

Stem Corner on OZ, TM

The second pitch of The Crucifix, YV

The 2nd and 5th pitches of Western Front, Russell

If you can solo it- does it count as a single pitch? That would open up some options

Hate to talk smack- but Blue Sun???? You need to get out more

Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Aug 8, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
Yeah....position is everything.



Shield
Shield
Credit: Cragman
Jennie

Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
Aug 8, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
A list of outstanding pitches in the Tetons might include:

Open Book, Garnet Canyon, Pitch 3
Irene's Arete, Garnet Canyon, Hanging Tooth Pitch
Lower Exum Ridge, Black Face Pitch
The Snaz, Death Canyon, Pitch 6

The South Buttress routes on Mt. Moran have a multitude of great pitches...Pitch 3 and Great Traverse pitch of South Buttress Right are unforgettable ...
Fishcake

Trad climber
SANTA ANA
Nov 4, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
I will add more later but, so far, my favorite single pitch climb (and probably my favorite pitch ever) is:

Illusion Dweller 10b, Joshua Tree National Park

Other notables:
EVERY pitch (though the chimney pitch is especially memorable) on Whodunit 5.9, Tahquitz
P1 and P2 on Long Climb (with P1 Wong variation) 5.8, Tahquitz
Sail Away 5.7, Joshua Tree
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Nov 4, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
Random great pitches I've led and can remember that feeling of being totally in the moment....

Last pitch of Inferno, Whitehorse Ledge, New Hampshire
Arch pitch on Fruit Cup Wall, Cannon Mtn, New Hampshire
Pipe pitch (when it still had the pipe) on Whitney-Gilman Ridge, New Hampshire
Linking all of Disneyland into one pitch, Gunks
Linking all of Son of Easy O into one pitch, Gunks
Last pitch of Westward Ha, Gunks
Last pitch of Cruise Control, Gunks
Linking all of Slip of Fools into one pitch, Gunks
6th pitch of the Prow, Washington's Column Yosemite Valley
First Zig-Zag pitch on RNWFHD, Yosemite Valley
Last Zig-Zag pitch on RNWFHD, Yosemite Valley
Boot Flake pitch on the Nose, El Cap Yosemite Valley
Last pitch of the Nose, El Cap Yosemite Valley

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 4, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
F*#kin A, no love for The Forks???
Pick one and add it to the list.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Nov 4, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
i remember this being lots of fun, and with handcracks in the back on both sides, just seemed like a dream come true. cresent crack. direct route on half dome
half dome direct
half dome direct
Credit: mctwisted
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Nov 4, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
Anyone of these could be considered the greatest single pitch.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 4, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
For you jefe, Sail away, & Davidson dihedral ... And Paradise Lost... P-Forks
And, trying to stick to single pitch ;

Jump back jack crack. g mtn

Dominatrix w/0 mercy stronghold

Matricide, mt lemon

So many,Indian Creek?
siniestra for sure
Also,
9 lives
quarter of a man,
Stout
Black Corner
The Big Guy
Mega bucks,
Gurkha
T bones tonight

Spectreman Vedauwoo
Squat
Eds rack
Horns mother
Forever war (though incomplete, for me)
Jihad ". "

Fremont canyon
Of wine and roses

deto
Hollywood and vine
Walt Bailey
Tad
Danes Macabre
Mr clean,
El mat
The meadows
Blues riff
death crack
Black angel
Memo from Lloyd

The valley
Bad ass momma
Separate reality
Owl roof
Tales of power
Positively fourth street

Josh
Equinox
Morongo man
Castaways
Monkey roof
Wangerbanger
Spiderline
Throbbing gristle

Suicide
Paisano roof
Flower of a nigh rank
Insomnia

Mother superior

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 4, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
The last pitch you did that made you smile, followed by......
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Nov 4, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
A pitch that was special for me for a long time was a pendulum into the Grey Bands on the Triple Direct. At the end of the swing I on landed on what I remembered as a face of quartz crystals, like hand sized, that I climbed up.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Nov 4, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
+1 Donini! I feel like I say "This is my new favorite pitch!" a few times each month!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Nov 4, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
Roger, Hatchett and I were just talking about that the other weekend! Hope you are well, bud!
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Nov 4, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
Crimson Cringe Yos
Mentor VRG
Oracle Sonoma
Privelage du Serpant Ceuse
Strawberries Chateau Ver
Big Bobs Big Wedge Josh
Mad World pitch 7 Cal Dome
Stove Legs
Mr. Natural Yos
Enduro Corner A Man
Wall of the Worlds pith 1 Cal Domes
Salathe Headwall
Blind Faith pitch 1
Bad ass momma

Been on all, done most
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Nov 4, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
How about the second and third pitches of Corrugation Corner at the Leap. The Step across on the Mace, or pitch 4 of the Snaz.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Nov 4, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
The last pitch of Outer Space

Yeah! But surely you mean the one in Eldorado Canyon.......?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Nov 5, 2013 - 09:39am PT
-Crystal pitch, West Face on El Cap

-P.2, West Buttress "" ""
(that Peter Pan pitch is pretty brilliant also)

-40m of Outer Limits to left anchor

-hand crack high up on the Naked Edge

-hand crack high on the Rostrum

-hard to argue with Sinestra

-traverse pitch, Fiddler on the Roof, Red Rocks

-the topout pitch on Tis-sa-ack will probably go free, and if you pull that one off you should probably quit climbing then and there.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Nov 5, 2013 - 09:53am PT
Oh, and who can forget the overhanging broccoli-head pitch way off the deck on Lord of the Thais??
WBraun

climber
Nov 5, 2013 - 10:00am PT
Greatest pitches

The fastball, the knuckle ball. the slider, the curve ball, and the side arm .....
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Nov 5, 2013 - 10:16am PT
I like a lot of the ones listed, I also would mention the face pitch on Hobbit Book in Tuolumne.

Would like to get back on that.
splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 5, 2013 - 10:34am PT
enjoimx - first Off width pitch on the Rostrum
the wide pitch pitch a couple pitches after the crux (third) pitch? the fifth pitch, i think!

led that pitch bitd before cams were widely being used. or before i could afford them, anyway. i thought it was stellar also.

~Pearly Gates~ 5.10 (Tahquitz)

its a double overhanging layback one pitch variation to the Traitor Horn crux pitch. super exposure. once again, way bold lead bitd before cams and chit!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 5, 2013 - 11:22am PT
Werner, I find it poor form that you would not include the change up or the sinker on your list.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Nov 5, 2013 - 11:38am PT
1st pitch of "Knuckle Buster" (5.11a), Indian Canyon, Yosemite Valley.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 5, 2013 - 11:51am PT
The last pitch of Lost Arrow Tip, 5.12b. Location second to none on earth.
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
Nov 20, 2013 - 01:24am PT
Credit: Paco

Now that is one hell of a 5:10 pitch.
Seen it climbed.
Can't wait to climb it myself.
vmcgal

Trad climber
New Paltz, NY
Nov 20, 2013 - 06:13am PT
Linking pitches in the Gunks:

Birdland 5.8
Fat City Direct 10d

ruppell

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 06:59am PT
Speaking of the Gunks. How about Erect Direction. My vote for the single best pitch of 5.10 in the Gunks. That's with skipping that silly hanging belay. Birdie Party in one pitch to the top is also pretty sweet.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Nov 20, 2013 - 07:38am PT
Has anybody said Wet Kiss yet?
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Nov 20, 2013 - 07:42am PT
What about Black Tide? That was the most fun I've ever had climbing.

And Thunderbolt Peak.
steve shea

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 08:25am PT
Stovelegs
Crack of Fear, crux
Jump Back Jack Crack
many pitches on the Diamond
Crack of Doom
Horn's Mother
Supercrack
Traverse of the Gods
Summit Dihedral on Pingora SF
etc
ec

climber
ca
Nov 20, 2013 - 09:15am PT
every pitch, blazin'

http://m.youtube.com/results?q=pitcher%20LSD
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Dec 25, 2013 - 08:05am PT
Bump
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