Rap Bolting Everest

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 11, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
Of course a lot of new bolts have gone in on the Yellow Band/Geneva Spur due to global warming, but now the Hillary Step is under siege.

http://www.mountainguides.com/everest-south13-worlds-highest-rappel.shtml
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 11, 2013 - 11:03pm PT
Sport routes.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Jul 11, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
I just assumed they already had piles of bolts in that thing.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jul 11, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
Wow, retro-bolting the first ascent route on the highest mountain in the world, decades after the FA, using a power drill, and posting the write up on the web, with full names of the engineers. The unfortunate thing is that none of this is at all surprising.
MMCC

climber
New Zealand
Jul 12, 2013 - 12:37am PT
Commerce triumphs again. Hurrah for making money.
redrocker

climber
NV
Jul 12, 2013 - 02:44am PT
According to the article the bolts were installed as part of a new rappel anchor that completes a new rap route which will allow those descending an alternate way around the traffic jams at the Hillary Step.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jul 12, 2013 - 03:16am PT
This is a no brainer.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Jul 12, 2013 - 06:16am PT
Are a couple of holes the rock the biggest impact humanity has on Everest? You bolt haters make me lol.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jul 12, 2013 - 06:41am PT
Yeah- I sort of assumed they had already bolted the crap out of it as well to facilitate the mobs.

That Alpinist article http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13x/wfeature-everest-2013-full-report on the "full report" from the Sherpa incident actually covered it a bit. They brought up the fact that the ice line has moved something like 200m (?) from Hilary's time so what used to be ice anchors is bare rock these days.

"There's been a drought for last ten years, and it's getting drier and drier. And we had to acclimate to those changesóby changing the route, changing the way we set up the anchorsóseveral years ago," Benegas explained. Commercial teams made a controversial decision to retro-bolt parts of the 1953 route, adding six bolts on the Yellow Band in 2009 and ten to twelve more above the Triangle Face last year to replace what used to be ice anchors. "It's all dirt," Benegas says. "We have to take responsibility, we have to make it safe otherwise were going to see 200 deaths in one shot."

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 12, 2013 - 06:45am PT
Who cares.....it's just a poser attracting pile of shite anyway.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jul 12, 2013 - 06:54am PT
I with ya Donini. You couldn't pay me to go there.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jul 12, 2013 - 07:06am PT
Are you anti bolters saying that if a short section of wall fell off a nice El cap route, one which had a nice crack in it, that the blank section should not be bolted? Cause the ice is gone baby, which makes it a different proposition.

ps, deja vu, ST had this discussion already.





locker style edit, found the previous discourse from 2009: HAHA, CHECK OUT THE SECOND PICTURE!!! http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/851951/NEWS-Bolts-On-Everest



mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jul 12, 2013 - 08:42am PT
In our role as old fart armchair mountaineers armed with ADSL and plentiful beverages, it's our duty to post crusty paeans to the past, which serve to annoy and stimulate the young rule breakers on to bigger and better achievements.

Wait a minute, scratch that, this thread is about making money, not climbing mountains. Sorry.
michael feldman

Mountain climber
millburn, nj
Jul 12, 2013 - 09:02am PT
The mountains should be a "free" place. That means if people want to place bolts, they can place bolts. If people want to climb without using those bolts, they are also free to do so - witness first "free" ascents of previous aid climbs or bolted climbs. The standard routes on Everest are already beyond being clean anyway. What's the real difference if someone fixes a rope using ice screws or places a bolt when the ice melts? If you are jugging a rope, who cares how it is fixed (for style purposes)? I do not see people complaining about the ladder on the North Side. It's still a fixed rope and I do not think someone can claim that a few bolts looks bad on a mountain that size (go complain about human waste, oxygen bottles, human bodies, etc.). Everest is Everest and that is that.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Jul 12, 2013 - 09:05am PT
I do not see people complaining about the ladder on the North Side.

That ladder was removed. But then replaced.
Barbarian

climber
Jul 12, 2013 - 10:56am PT
That's nothing.....I'm going to be bolting the Mt. Whitney trail next week. Planning on putting in a bunch of 1/4" spinners every 15-20 feet.
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