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Crazy Bat
Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 7, 2013 - 01:29am PT
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I'll be coming with a group that will be rappeling from the diving board. The rope should be hanging from the 13th to the 19th.
No jugging up it. there may be someone coming down.
You Yosar types may be interested in the haul system used to pull the rope up from the bottom ( I assume that is how it will be done, it may ride in on a mule.) In any case the last day should be interesting to you too. All the gear will be rappeled down in packs weighing in at about 100 pounds each. One guy has a rack that could handle more, but I don't know if he will be using it. Please note that when I say rack it means a rappel rack with break bars. My inner caver is showing.
See yall at the bridge.
Myrna aka Crazy Bat
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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YER FOR SURE.....................
gonna rapple off the end of your rope
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
?
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I didn't know you were already back MH - good to see you again.
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Crazy Bat
Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 02:12am PT
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Well that is what I was told it was called. I don't have a copy of the book around or I would let you know exactly where it will be rigged. I'll update after I get to Yosemite and find a copy.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Hauling a bunch of rope and sh#t all that way to just slide down a rope...
sounds kinda lame dude. Is it challenging to slide down a rope? Is it even exciting? I always prefer a walk off to a rap.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Every year the ditch becomes more and more like a circus.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Is Gugglemucci going to be the number 2 man on this team? Sounds like its right up his alley.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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this is awesome, get a grigri.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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If I were you, I'd check in with Werner before you do this.
He works search and rescue in the park.
Oh, I almost forgot, YER GUNNA DIE!!!!,
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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I climbed the Salathe in 1981 with Blond Nick Donnelly:
We arrived at the top quite late and started looking for the way down the East Ledges. We stumbled upon a tent with someone sitting outside it. She told us she was with a group of cavers that had set up a rope all the way down to the ground and they were jumarring up and rapping down it. Nick's eyes lit up... Suddenly realising what was going through his mind I grabbed him and ran off in the general direction of the East Ledges!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Rap from the diving board? Sounds like something a TAG caver would do.
Hang 'Em High, TAG country
Main Well, TAG country
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Thanks for posting!
Always thought it would be fun. It's certainly no more absurd than what us climbers do.
Please post a TR and pics!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I used to like rappelling long drops ...
... until I started climbing them, instead. {wink}
If you ever want to know how to ascend a fixed rope, don't ask a climber, ask a caver. Cavers have nothing better to do with their time than perfect their jugging systems.
I would like to see someone try to put a caving rope through a Grigri - you know the tail of the rope weighs about 200 lbs, right?
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WBraun
climber
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You Yosar types may be interested in the haul system used to pull the rope up from the bottom.
We've been doing this for 40 years.
What's new that we don't know?
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Hey Jaan, nice photo of Nick Donnelly!
Heard about this. Was it Peter Bosted, back in 1981, did this first?
I heard that about 6 guys all helped carry the rope up. They of course used caving racks for the descent. Clever trick was a bottle (or two?) of water with a spray nozzle of some kind to keep the rack cool.
Best of luck, Crazy Bat!
EDIT: Or maybe the person I knew who did this rappel was Chaz Young, another caver type....?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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^^^
I went caving with Peter last month in Hawaii. He is still hard at work underground.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I've done lots of caving with Peter Bosted in Roppel Cave, although not for a few years. He certainly never mentioned anything about a rapping accident on El Cap.
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WBraun
climber
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Rapping accident on El Cap.
You should have been there and seen the end result of that one.
Sick .....
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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I've done lots of caving with Peter Bosted in Roppel Cave, although not for a few years. He certainly never mentioned anything about a rapping accident on El Cap.
No, he was not involved in any accident as far as I know.
My recollection is (though I may have this wrong) that he was first to do the one-rope El Cap rappel. All went smoothly.
It's been a while since I last saw him. He sure does get around some wild caves to this day. A sort of caving version of Fred Beckey.
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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@ Crunch
Hey Jaan, nice photo of Nick Donnelly!
Yeah, you must have known him... here's another:
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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I wounder if this is a disciple of Weld_it?
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aguacaliente
climber
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seems like it's been done before
so maybe expand the horizons to new challenges, as Donini would say.
first winter rappel of El Cap!
Toni Kurz-style, practice passing your knots
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goatboy smellz
climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
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First speed rappel of El Cap?
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Mark Not-circlehead
climber
Martinez, CA
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Not only has it been done before (it seems every ten or fifteen years someone comes to the Valley to do it for the 1st time), but I think there is almost always a YOSAR involvement.
I remember the guy who died one year, and I think another guy had to be rescued up high on a different event , as the weight of 3000' of rope is unbelievable, and hence the amount of friction needed changes significantly from top to bottom of the rappel.
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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When you pull the rope, do you still try to catch the end?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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When you pull the rope, do you still try to catch the end?
bahahaha
I'll be in the meadow with popcorn and beer for this one....
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Caveman
climber
Cumberland Plateau
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"Not only has it been done before (it seems every ten or fifteen years someone comes to the Valley to do it for the 1st time), but I think there is almost always a YOSAR involvement."
Bull! You actually know how many times ElCap has been rapped? The weight of 3000' of rope is unbelievable or about 240lb depending on your math.
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WBraun
climber
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Meh .....
3000 footers on spools back in the early 70's.
Nothing new at all ...... :-)
Connected to these guys
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OR
Trad climber
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Quote The day Blanchard blasted off, there was a kid running around the base with a piece of the guy's skull, sitting on a sheet of aluminum foil . . . he was just walking up to total strangers - thrusting it under their noses and going off about it. . . ten kinds of proud, as if he'd found an arrowhead or something.
Here
Good lord, I do remember some version of that story. There was supposed to be some spot at the base that if you moved a rock there was a part of the victims jaw with some teeth. It was there for a year or so. Part urban myth I'm sure but.....................
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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I've done lots of caving with Peter Bosted in Roppel Cave, although not for a few years. He certainly never mentioned anything about a rapping accident on El Cap.
"WHAT? Are you new?" - Jim Bridwell quote
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Yeah, eKat. He (jb) said this to me many times when I WAS new, ha haa.
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Matt's
climber
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bump for a 3000ft rope!
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Johnny K.
climber
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I bet Werner could lead El Cap in one pitch with 4 pieces and that sweet 3,000 ft static line
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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i might have made that comment to bridwell when he was new
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Crazy Bat
Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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I knew people who were with they guy who died, that led to to the development of very long racks. The average is 24 inches, but our leader had one 36 inches. It turned out well, no fatalities.
I had a ball hanging with Eric Sloan at the bridge. I think he enjoyed listening to the radio chatter.
We did have an incident the first day. One of our team members broke a finger on his control hand. This lead to him being tethered like a duffel bag below our intrepid leader who used his 36 inch rack to rappel them both down safely. Twenty minutes and a half hour hike out and he was at the medical center getting it x-rayed.
The next guy did it in three minutes. No one was happy with the condition of the rope after that, but it was still safe and used the rest of the week.
I'll post more later.
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Crazy Bat
Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
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Seirra Ledge Rat, my dad now has a house at the end of the road where you used to park for Hangem High. Most people park at Mudpuppy's just down the street because he cooks for them.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 23, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
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Sounds like a blast!
Pics and vid please!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 23, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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The next guy did it in three minutes. No one was happy with the condition of the rope after that, but it was still safe and used the rest of the week.
Bwaaaahahahahahahah . . . yeah right!
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Crazy Bat
Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
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Here is my attempt to post a photo of two of our team climbing the rope.
Their time was 1 hour 54 minuts. Then next team climbed in one hour 53 minutes. The record, set in 2004, was one hour eight minutes by Peter Hurtle. He lives at altitude, the rest of us live at < 1000 feet.
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Crazy Bat
Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
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Eric sitting down on the job, the only time I saw him sit while wearing the shirt. He did a great job of getting folks to look through the scopes and telling them what was going on.
He did try to steal my climbing gear to juggy up the rope, but I stole it back. LOL!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jul 24, 2013 - 03:57pm PT
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Is the 36 inch rack a D cup?
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Jul 24, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
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WBraun said We've been doing this for 40 years.
What's new that we don't know?
Werner used a 1:1 to Peter Pan me off of the Bismark with a full haul bag clipped to my harness. I swung easily 100-150 feet out from the ledge into space while the guy belaying from the ledge screamed "hooooooly shiiiiiiiiiit!!!" Werner and the crew had jumars clipped to their harnesses and were running downhill with just a directional off a tree so that we could get home as soon as possible.
Now that was an interesting haul system.
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saa
climber
not much of a
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Jul 24, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
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Bump for Werner doing it for 40 years and bump for
Aemmon being a newbie once.
I thought cavers did this once a year anyhow (!?!?!)
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Crazy Bat
Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
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Finally a member of the team posted a video somewhere besides Facebook. Here is a link to Amy Hinkle's video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i48IAfl5RCc&hd=1
I'm the first photo after the rappel. Give me a shout out if you saw me at the bridge.
Myrna
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Deekaid
climber
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Aug 28, 2013 - 10:37am PT
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First Aussie style rap?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Aug 28, 2013 - 10:58am PT
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Love the video. Thanks for posting!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Aug 28, 2013 - 11:58am PT
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Video was interesting, a little short on technical details and way to much in the way of horsie shots, but I enjoyed it.
So did you pull the rope? that must have been a real mess to cleanup.
What was in the pig? Pot? The tools would never figure that one out!
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