A very, very, very long rope is coming to El Capitain

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Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 6, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
I'll be coming with a group that will be rappeling from the diving board. The rope should be hanging from the 13th to the 19th.

No jugging up it. there may be someone coming down.

You Yosar types may be interested in the haul system used to pull the rope up from the bottom ( I assume that is how it will be done, it may ride in on a mule.) In any case the last day should be interesting to you too. All the gear will be rappeled down in packs weighing in at about 100 pounds each. One guy has a rack that could handle more, but I don't know if he will be using it. Please note that when I say rack it means a rappel rack with break bars. My inner caver is showing.

See yall at the bridge.

Myrna aka Crazy Bat
Pennsylenvy

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Jul 6, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
YER FOR SURE.....................





































































gonna rapple off the end of your rope
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 6, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
We have sad news for you.

There are apparently not one but two Diving Boards in Yosemite. However, both are on Half Dome. You will need quite a long rope to get from "El Capitain" to Half Dome - 10 km, anyway.

http://www.sierrastar.com/2012/11/16/60215/yosemites-diving-board.html
Tami

Social climber
Canada
Jul 6, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
Snicker.
T H

climber
?
Jul 6, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
I didn't know you were already back MH - good to see you again.
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Well that is what I was told it was called. I don't have a copy of the book around or I would let you know exactly where it will be rigged. I'll update after I get to Yosemite and find a copy.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jul 6, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
Hauling a bunch of rope and sh#t all that way to just slide down a rope...

sounds kinda lame dude. Is it challenging to slide down a rope? Is it even exciting? I always prefer a walk off to a rap.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jul 6, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
Every year the ditch becomes more and more like a circus.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Jul 7, 2013 - 12:37am PT
Credit: Vegasclimber


Is Gugglemucci going to be the number 2 man on this team? Sounds like its right up his alley.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 7, 2013 - 01:52am PT
this is awesome, get a grigri.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Jul 7, 2013 - 02:24am PT
If I were you, I'd check in with Werner before you do this.

He works search and rescue in the park.

Oh, I almost forgot, YER GUNNA DIE!!!!,
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Jul 7, 2013 - 03:56am PT
I climbed the Salathe in 1981 with Blond Nick Donnelly:

Credit: jaaan

We arrived at the top quite late and started looking for the way down the East Ledges. We stumbled upon a tent with someone sitting outside it. She told us she was with a group of cavers that had set up a rope all the way down to the ground and they were jumarring up and rapping down it. Nick's eyes lit up... Suddenly realising what was going through his mind I grabbed him and ran off in the general direction of the East Ledges!
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 7, 2013 - 04:37am PT
Oh, come on youse guys. Cavers set up single line rappels off El Cap all of the time. And yes, it is interesting I'm sure. The logistics or rappelling such a long rope are funky. The thing weighs a ton, so you need extra care just to get your rappelling rack going. Heat buildup on the rap is a concern, no?

And also, you can toprope that sh#t. Amirite? Sure I am.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jul 7, 2013 - 06:10am PT
Rap from the diving board? Sounds like something a TAG caver would do.

Hang 'Em High, TAG country
Descending 500 feet underground Hang 'Em High Cave, Tennessee
Descending 500 feet underground Hang 'Em High Cave, Tennessee
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Main Well, TAG country
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 7, 2013 - 06:29am PT
Thanks for posting!

Always thought it would be fun. It's certainly no more absurd than what us climbers do.

Please post a TR and pics!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 7, 2013 - 06:38am PT
I used to like rappelling long drops ...

... until I started climbing them, instead. {wink}

If you ever want to know how to ascend a fixed rope, don't ask a climber, ask a caver. Cavers have nothing better to do with their time than perfect their jugging systems.

I would like to see someone try to put a caving rope through a Grigri - you know the tail of the rope weighs about 200 lbs, right?
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 7, 2013 - 07:35am PT
Holy CRAP. . . not this again!

I've seen this end in tragedy!

Blanchard and I were in the Valley for his solo of Tribal Rite (not to be confused with Tribal Left - HA!) And during the time that we were humping loads, a raft of cavers were trying to set some kind of world's record rapping a continuous line off ElCap. One of the guys didn't make it. It made a terrifying mess, just about at the base of the route.

I used to get ten kinds of wiggly when Blanchard would solo, but I always prided myself in staying strong and focused, organizing ground and summit support for him.

After fixing for days, he was ready to blast off and the scene at the base was SO TERRIBLE, I spoke with Ralph - but - as not to wig Blanchard out, I told him I inhaled a bug.

RIGHT!

Good Grief. . . I hope this gang rap doesn't end the same way!

YIKES!
WBraun

climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 07:57am PT
You Yosar types may be interested in the haul system used to pull the rope up from the bottom.


We've been doing this for 40 years.

What's new that we don't know?
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jul 7, 2013 - 08:13am PT
Hey Jaan, nice photo of Nick Donnelly!

Heard about this. Was it Peter Bosted, back in 1981, did this first?

I heard that about 6 guys all helped carry the rope up. They of course used caving racks for the descent. Clever trick was a bottle (or two?) of water with a spray nozzle of some kind to keep the rack cool.

Best of luck, Crazy Bat!

EDIT: Or maybe the person I knew who did this rappel was Chaz Young, another caver type....?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jul 7, 2013 - 08:28am PT
^^^
I went caving with Peter last month in Hawaii. He is still hard at work underground.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 7, 2013 - 08:53am PT
I've done lots of caving with Peter Bosted in Roppel Cave, although not for a few years. He certainly never mentioned anything about a rapping accident on El Cap.
WBraun

climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 09:39am PT
Rapping accident on El Cap.

You should have been there and seen the end result of that one.

Sick .....
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 7, 2013 - 10:16am PT
Rapping accident on El Cap.

You should have been there and seen the end result of that one.

Sick .....

I second that! (or maybe I firsted it?)

The day Blanchard blasted off, there was a kid running around the base with a piece of the guy's skull, sitting on a sheet of aluminum foil . . . he was just walking up to total strangers - thrusting it under their noses and going off about it. . . ten kinds of proud, as if he'd found an arrowhead or something.

There was a very, very long period in my life where scenes such as that wouldn't have even caused me to flinch - and my TechnicolorDeadGuyGallery is voluminous - but I hadn't been in the trenches for a while, when that one came down. . . and. . . well. . . yes, WonderBrawn. . . the word SICK sums it up perfectly!





crunch

Social climber
CO
Jul 7, 2013 - 11:02am PT
I've done lots of caving with Peter Bosted in Roppel Cave, although not for a few years. He certainly never mentioned anything about a rapping accident on El Cap.

No, he was not involved in any accident as far as I know.

My recollection is (though I may have this wrong) that he was first to do the one-rope El Cap rappel. All went smoothly.

It's been a while since I last saw him. He sure does get around some wild caves to this day. A sort of caving version of Fred Beckey.
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Jul 7, 2013 - 11:04am PT
@ Crunch

Hey Jaan, nice photo of Nick Donnelly!

Yeah, you must have known him... here's another:

Credit: jaaan
FRUMY

Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
Jul 7, 2013 - 11:06am PT
I wounder if this is a disciple of Weld_it?

aguacaliente

climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
seems like it's been done before

so maybe expand the horizons to new challenges, as Donini would say.

first winter rappel of El Cap!

Toni Kurz-style, practice passing your knots


goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Jul 7, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
First speed rappel of El Cap?
Mark Not-circlehead

climber
Martinez, CA
Jul 7, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
Not only has it been done before (it seems every ten or fifteen years someone comes to the Valley to do it for the 1st time), but I think there is almost always a YOSAR involvement.

I remember the guy who died one year, and I think another guy had to be rescued up high on a different event , as the weight of 3000' of rope is unbelievable, and hence the amount of friction needed changes significantly from top to bottom of the rappel.

jewedlaw

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 7, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
When you pull the rope, do you still try to catch the end?
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Jul 7, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
When you pull the rope, do you still try to catch the end?

bahahaha

I'll be in the meadow with popcorn and beer for this one....
Caveman

climber
Cumberland Plateau
Jul 7, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
"Not only has it been done before (it seems every ten or fifteen years someone comes to the Valley to do it for the 1st time), but I think there is almost always a YOSAR involvement."


Bull! You actually know how many times ElCap has been rapped? The weight of 3000' of rope is unbelievable or about 240lb depending on your math.
WBraun

climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
Meh .....

3000 footers on spools back in the early 70's.

Nothing new at all ...... :-)



Connected to these guys

OR

Trad climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
Quote The day Blanchard blasted off, there was a kid running around the base with a piece of the guy's skull, sitting on a sheet of aluminum foil . . . he was just walking up to total strangers - thrusting it under their noses and going off about it. . . ten kinds of proud, as if he'd found an arrowhead or something.
Here

Good lord, I do remember some version of that story. There was supposed to be some spot at the base that if you moved a rock there was a part of the victims jaw with some teeth. It was there for a year or so. Part urban myth I'm sure but.....................
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 7, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
I've done lots of caving with Peter Bosted in Roppel Cave, although not for a few years. He certainly never mentioned anything about a rapping accident on El Cap.

"WHAT? Are you new?" - Jim Bridwell quote

eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 7, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
No urban legend, there. . . let me tell you. . . I was right in the middle of it.

The day before blast off there were lots and lots of guys scouring the ground, at the scene of impact, (the rope recoiled after impact and the body was jettisoned into a tree), and everybody was looking for parts.

It was hideously macabre.

You could have cut the atmosphere with a knife.

:-(

eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 7, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
"WHAT? Are you new?" - Jim Bridwell quote

Whoa. . . I read that in Bridwell's voice!

:-)
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jul 7, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Yeah, eKat. He (jb) said this to me many times when I WAS new, ha haa.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 7, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
^^^^ HA! You and I should compare notes. . . I bet we both learned a lot at Ole JB's knee!

:-)
Matt's

climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
bump for a 3000ft rope!
Johnny K.

climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
I bet Werner could lead El Cap in one pitch with 4 pieces and that sweet 3,000 ft static line
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Jul 7, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
i might have made that comment to bridwell when he was new
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
I knew people who were with they guy who died, that led to to the development of very long racks. The average is 24 inches, but our leader had one 36 inches. It turned out well, no fatalities.

I had a ball hanging with Eric Sloan at the bridge. I think he enjoyed listening to the radio chatter.

We did have an incident the first day. One of our team members broke a finger on his control hand. This lead to him being tethered like a duffel bag below our intrepid leader who used his 36 inch rack to rappel them both down safely. Twenty minutes and a half hour hike out and he was at the medical center getting it x-rayed.

The next guy did it in three minutes. No one was happy with the condition of the rope after that, but it was still safe and used the rest of the week.

I'll post more later.


Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
Seirra Ledge Rat, my dad now has a house at the end of the road where you used to park for Hangem High. Most people park at Mudpuppy's just down the street because he cooks for them.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 23, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
Sounds like a blast!

Pics and vid please!

Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Jul 23, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
The next guy did it in three minutes. No one was happy with the condition of the rope after that, but it was still safe and used the rest of the week.

Bwaaaahahahahahahah . . . yeah right!
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2013 - 11:36am PT
Here is my attempt to post a photo of two of our team climbing the rope.
Kelly Coony and Dutch aka Duffle Bag.
Kelly Coony and Dutch aka Duffle Bag.
Credit: Crazy Bat

Their time was 1 hour 54 minuts. Then next team climbed in one hour 53 minutes. The record, set in 2004, was one hour eight minutes by Peter Hurtle. He lives at altitude, the rest of us live at < 1000 feet.
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2013 - 11:42am PT
Eric sitting down on the job, the only time I saw him sit while wearing the shirt.
Eric Sloan
Eric Sloan
Credit: Crazy Bat
He did a great job of getting folks to look through the scopes and telling them what was going on.

He did try to steal my climbing gear to juggy up the rope, but I stole it back. LOL!
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
Is the 36 inch rack a D cup?
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
WBraun said
We've been doing this for 40 years.

What's new that we don't know?

Werner used a 1:1 to Peter Pan me off of the Bismark with a full haul bag clipped to my harness. I swung easily 100-150 feet out from the ledge into space while the guy belaying from the ledge screamed "hooooooly shiiiiiiiiiit!!!" Werner and the crew had jumars clipped to their harnesses and were running downhill with just a directional off a tree so that we could get home as soon as possible.


Now that was an interesting haul system.
saa

climber
not much of a
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Bump for Werner doing it for 40 years and bump for
Aemmon being a newbie once.

I thought cavers did this once a year anyhow (!?!?!)
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
Finally a member of the team posted a video somewhere besides Facebook. Here is a link to Amy Hinkle's video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i48IAfl5RCc&hd=1


I'm the first photo after the rappel. Give me a shout out if you saw me at the bridge.

Myrna
cali kat

climber
CA
Aug 28, 2013 - 05:56am PT
BAM!

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2403825/Into-void-Daredevils-complete-worlds-biggest-abseils-dropping-3-000ft-face-El-Capitan-Yosemite-National-Park.html
Deekaid

climber
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:37am PT
First Aussie style rap?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:58am PT
Love the video. Thanks for posting!
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Aug 28, 2013 - 08:58am PT
Video was interesting, a little short on technical details and way to much in the way of horsie shots, but I enjoyed it.

So did you pull the rope? that must have been a real mess to cleanup.

What was in the pig? Pot? The tools would never figure that one out!
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Aug 28, 2013 - 09:03am PT
Cool video.

BTW, here is a link to the rappelling accident that has been discussed:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13199304700/Fall-on-RappelLost-Control-and-Descended-Too-Rapidly-California-Yosemite-Valley-El-Capitan
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