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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
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How's it goin', eh?
I just got down off the wall, and would like to climb one more El Cap route before I head for home after July 4.
I'm looking for a partner or partners who would like to join me, either in fixing pitches over the next several days, or else for blasting towards the end of middle of next week.
Whether you are experienced and want to climb with me for the whole wall, or you are just interested in helping out in fixing pitches and learning stuff, drop me an email via this website, and we'll talk.
Cheers and beers on the wall,
Pete
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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^^ That is a damn good imitation of Weld_it. Whatever happened to that guy?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 14, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
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I'd love to join you, PTPP, if:
1. I could get the time off (doubtful); and
2. I get my pitons back (I loaned them out to another aspiring El Cap party). Actually, I give Point two in jest. I don't expect to need the pegs back until the loanees succeed.
If I get free, though I will email you. I'm not worried about the tosser nonsense, since I know that's over.
;>)
Just be aware, I once had a legitimate claim to the Valley's Slowest Aid Climber title.
John
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jun 14, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
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^^^^ slower than Chongo C? You must be goin backwards then..
Wish I were in the valley! I'd love to go up. I dig the the big stone when it's 100'.
Im in JTree and it's 109' and I'm bask'in naked. Gettin a little tan on the'ol piton.
down'in some Tecate's. enough said.
Send It!
Cheers!!!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 14, 2013 - 06:07pm PT
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Chongo was after my time!
John
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Jun 14, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
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Chongo is in all times at the same time...well according to him anyways. He always starts rappin about string theory and stuff and I can't understand a damn thing lol. But yeah, I'd say he holds the record. Can't remember how long he had his gear on the PO wall.
Pete, I wish I could be there, but I can't get any time off right now. Last few weekends have been super busy, and I am just too fried at the moment to blast to the Valley for a day of fun and then back.
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maryd
climber
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Jun 14, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
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hi Pete. what wall are you interested in climbing?
i'm mary. i'm on break from college and want to learn more about climbing walls. i climbed the south face with a friend this spring but i need a lot more experience. i'm small but strong and would be happy to take many loads for you. all I ask is that you teach me and let me learn from you. how can I contact you?
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alleyehave
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 14, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
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Mary can take many loads...sounds like you have a new wall partner
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 14, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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Why do I find myself feeling sorry for Pete all of a sudden...
The last few posts are pure gold.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! You will have to troll a far more enticing lure than that to get this wily ol' angler to bite!
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
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I KNEW I would find something funny opening this thread.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jun 15, 2013 - 03:36am PT
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how about this guy
He, He IS a Tiggarrr.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 15, 2013 - 03:51am PT
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I'd go with John Elezarian, if he can make it.
Mary? Maybe. She may be real, potentially bang-able.
Decisions......
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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Dave Lee and Keenan carried all my rack and ledge up there today, then Dave sent the first pitch, a rather seriously runout 10b. Maybe 1 and 2 linked, we're not sure. It's a mystery. Oh yeah, and we bootied about 12 gallons of leftover water marked "free".
Klaus - there are bolts of yours all over the place on these lower free climbing horror show sections. Can you explain which routes are where with respect to Waterfall and which bolts belong where?
One assumes we are heading up and right to the only fairly large left-leaning corner, right?
Cheers! We're sending!
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Jun 16, 2013 - 01:07am PT
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It is a bit confusing on that slippery slope of polished orange granite.
Just don't get on Get Whacked thinking you were on the Waterfall Route. Maybe that's what you did, because it's a bit spicy.
10a... my arse, ha ha!
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A5scott
Trad climber
Chicago
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Jun 16, 2013 - 02:02am PT
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Hey Pete, i wish I was out there! I'm hoping to be in the Valley by mid july, too late for you though. When will you be back? september?
scott
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
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Yup. I'm here in September from around September 15th through to the end of October.
Still looking for a partner to keep climbing with me after fixing. Blasting towards end of the week perhaps.
Yes, Ammon - that orange streak is unbelievably slippery! Dave led up just left of it, and the fixed rope I was jugging went right over the streak. My sticky rubber shoes were slippin' and slidin' as I was jugging! It's unfathomable to actually climb on that rock, yet the old bolts are there.
Tell us about it, Klaus!
Roger - what's the geology of the red stuff? One assumes it's an iron deposit of some kind?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
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Gratuitous self-bump. Feeling lonely, unloved, and slightly fearful of soloing. It's been a while.... I've really only been a Big Wall Solo Theorist of late. You know, dispensing advice, solving other people's problems, sounding all knowledgeable and bitchin', all that kind of stuff?
Then suddenly you see a couple thousand feet of overhanging granite in front of you.
Only you.
{gulp}
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 17, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
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you can do it Pete....just think, you'll be the star of the EC Report!
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spenchur
climber
Flagstaff/Thousand Oaks
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Jun 18, 2013 - 12:37am PT
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What 'red stuff' are you speaking of geologically?
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jun 18, 2013 - 12:54am PT
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Unloved? I invited you to COR but no... You're passed out in the Coorey Vrillage parking lot.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Jun 18, 2013 - 03:36am PT
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And you better not be claiming a solo if you do end up belaying yourself, ha ha. Quit letting your skirt blow over your head and get your arse up there.
Klaus, I took multiple 40 footers in that zone, as well. Glad to hear a friction master, such as yourself, had some similar experience.
Cheers!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
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Solo? I haven't climbed an inch of rock and I'm already fixed two pitches up!
Paging Roger - tell us what the orange streak is caused by.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jun 19, 2013 - 10:38am PT
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Sorry for the delay...ive been in the Palisades.
The red streaks are iron oxide (rust)deposits. At the start (top) of the rust streaks there are a couple of large (~2 m across) pegmatite areas. These pegmatites have large crystals of biotite and other iron rich minerals that chemically weather to iron oxides and clay minerals. The clay minerals wash away but the iron oxides stick to the rock.
-Roger
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 19, 2013 - 10:45am PT
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The clay minerals wash away but the iron oxides stick to the rock.
But what about Pete's wine stains?
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rockklimber
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jun 19, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
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Pete, wish I had known you were in the valley earlier. Had lotsa free time this spring, but landed a short work gig for a few weeks so weekdays are filled for the time being.
What route are you blasting up? And what channel are you on? I'll be in the valley next two weekends, so I'll come check out your progress when I get in (hopefully above the treeline by then).
Don't forget the beers this time.
Stan
PTPP: Ask him if he's Konged?
Stan: John, are you Konged?
John: What the h*ll is Konged?
Stan: ??? H*ll if I know. Pete, what the h*ll is Konged?
PTPP: Ask him if the wall hauler is ready?
Stan: (who the f*ck says Konged? Damn Canadians, eh?)
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Jun 19, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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Levy and I pushed Waterfall route in 2002. On pitch 5 I pulled a piece of rock and took a short whipper. The rope that I had at the time was an edge resistant 11mm. I think that I cut it halfway thru on that fall as it raked along the ledge that I had been traversing across.
We switched out for the haul line to finish it. Coincidentally the zone that we were climbing thru was super loose and I think that was what fell off in 2010.
Erik
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Jun 19, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
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yup as soon as you do pitch 5 yer good
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Rocky IV
Social climber
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Jun 21, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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I bailed back to the ground to deal with bullshit involving my education. not all that awesome, but on the plus side it's looking like I WON'T be dropping out of school in a few months, my mother is so relieved...
When i left pete he was firmly ensconced at the top of the 3rd pitch. He a smile on his face and a gatorita in his hand. I led up the last 5.9 free climbing pitch and backed off because I could see a way but there wasn't any gear and death blocks abounded. there was a vegetated corner to the right that looked fairly straightforward to aid, but awkward.
I helped haul all his sh#t up (it all fit into only 2 bags!). after the next pitch it should be smooth sailing, cleaner and steeper rock with less loose sh#t to come off.
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