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| Messages 1 - 33 of total 33 in this topic |
Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 13, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
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My wife and I are considering spending the summer of 2014 in Utah.
I haven't climbed anywhere in the state, so I have no idea where to set up.
We'll most likely do a 5 or 6 week vacation rental and would like to access a large variety of climbing from it.
Any recommendations?
We enjoy a mix of sport and trad every summer.
Just to give you an idea what we're looking for, our last summer stateside we based in Lake Tahoe near Lover's Leap. This gave us easy access to lots of climbing, and place to do our shopping too.
Cheers,
Eman
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Oldfattradguy2
Trad climber
Here and there
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Jun 13, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
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Summer is the absolute worst time to be in Utah.
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 02:56am PT
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Unfortunately, summer is the only time we have.
We did California and Colorado in the past. Trying to do a different location each time. Want my wife to see America.
Considering North Conway.
Gets a bit hot, not bad. Excellent climbing too. June is usually to early for the Grand Tetons, and this particular summer, we won't be a good climbing shape.
Other choice would be to make a road trip of Washington, Oregon, and California. (Mom leave in Southern Ca.
Of course, we could focus on California too. Yosemite to Bishop.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 14, 2013 - 07:35am PT
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Summer's good in the north of Utah. There's gobs of climbing on all kinds of different rock in the Wasatch and Uinta mountains and you can go up higher in elevation if it gets hot in the canyons. There is a nice variety of different styles of climbing (trad/sport, short/multipitch, easy-access/remote, etc.) There's good bouldering and you can even go high and remote, for example in the Lone Peak Cirque (brutal approach). Salt Lake City is the center, but you can live other places as well.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jun 14, 2013 - 07:48am PT
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i'd suggest wyoming, instead.
much better summer climes.
for climbing, you've the tetons and vedavoo, not to far to
rocky mountain national park,
or weekend trips to boulder / el dorado canyon.
tons of outdoor pursuits:
mountain biking, river travel, mountaineering.
consider jackson hole. its a great town with lots of mountain freaks.
plus, and this may have changed since i've been there,
you can drive with an open container as long as your under
the legal blood alcohol limit.
utah tends to impede access to good beer.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 14, 2013 - 08:09am PT
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I recommend the North Cascades. The climbing and scenery kinda sucks, but you could salvage something good from a trip out there.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Jun 14, 2013 - 08:21am PT
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Don't be scared by the trolls. Salt Lake averages 5-7 100-degree days per year, low humidity, very tolerable. If you want cooler temps, rarely 90, stay in Park City or in a condo in Brighton or Alta.
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Jun 14, 2013 - 10:26am PT
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An Alta condo is not a bad idea. Hellgate sport routes on limestone across the street. Quartzite sport a short hike up the hill. A whole summer of classic granite trad down canyon that is great in the early morning and good most evenings. Downtown Salt Lake is 30 minutes away.
Park City is a great mountain town. Closer to the Uintas.
I'm up Little Cottonwood all summer long chasing shade :-)
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Jun 14, 2013 - 10:58am PT
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Stay north as others have suggested. Southern UT is tough in the summer however I have done it many times but prefer north.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:13am PT
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Serpentine Ridge, Dragontail Peak, North Cascades!
It's close to Leavenworth, which is a great town, with lots of good granite!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:16am PT
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Guangzhou, here's a heads-up: they won't let you into Utah with only one wife.
I also think think Wyoming would be nicer. Look for a rental at Fremont Lk/Pinedale.
It's an hour from Jackson and an hour from a couple of Winds entries.
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:28am PT
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they won't let you into Utah with only one wife
you can rent an extra wife at the airport when you arrive... in fact, they are included in most car rentals these days
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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As others have said Utah, especially the northern part is a reasonable summer destination. Even on the hottest days climbing in the Wasatch Canyons (Big and Little Cottonwoods, American Fork, etc) is fine in the shade with a good variety of rock types--quartzite, granite, limestone in the various canyons. Higher up is good alpine granite, though with a tough, waterless approach. For the Wasatch, Salt Lake is the best "base", though maybe a summer rental at one of the ski resorts could work out well.
Further north the Uintas have excellent and very accessible climbing on quarzite--both trad and sport (mostly single pitch), at high altitude (10,000 ft.)in very pretty surroundings--really a perfect summer area. Camping is the best option but it isn't too far from Park City.
In central Utah. the cobbles of Maple Canyon make another good summer sport climbing area as there is almost always something in the shade in the narrow corridors. Camping is the way to go in Maple but it is easily reachable as a weekend excursion from the Salt Lake area.
While not in Utah, the City of Rocks/Castle Rock area in southern Idaho is a very worthwhile destination--really a MUST VISIT--only 3 or so hours drive from Salt Lake. Wonderful climbing on sculpted granite formations both sport and trad with a wide range of grades, all in a great "wild west" setting. Again camping is the best option, though there is expensive lodging available in the local "town" of Almo. The areas around Lander, Wyoming are also accessible from Salt Lake, though best for folks climbing in the higher grades.
You also mentioned North Conway in this part of the country. Obviously I'm a bit prejudiced, but I very much recommend the area. There is plenty of lodging in town with loads of climbing very near by, and much more within an hour or 2 drive. The climbing is mostly trad and on granite, though the Rumney sport climbing area (schist) is about 1 1/4 hour drive. The downsides are that it can be very hot and humid (though there are also many pleasant days as well), it rains alot, and can be very buggy, especially in the spring/early summer. Late summer/fall is surely the best time to visit the area, but don't rule out a summer trip.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:33am PT
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plus utah is trashed,
you are encouraged to throw your refuse out
the window cause jesus is coming
back regardless of our environmental hygiene.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:45am PT
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Easy to base out of SLC, or, as ddriver says, probably find a spot in BCC or LCC if you want to get up out of the city.
Really is 360 degrees worth of climbing on a variety of rock.
LCC, BCC, Uintas, AF, West Desert for long day trips or overnighters, City of Rocks is 2.5 hours, O town, Rock Canyon, Maple...
Easy enough to stay busy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:51am PT
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Listen to Weeg. I live in Utah and summer in Wyo.
Even on the hottest days climbing in the Wasatch Canyons (Big and Little Cottonwoods, American Fork, etc) is fine in the shade with a good variety of rock types--quartzite, granite, limestone in the various canyons.
Not my experience, at all, in the four years I lived in SLC! Yeah, you can work around it, if you have to be there, but if you can be anywhere, that flat-out, ain't the place!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 14, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
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The Wyoming suggestion is much more spot on for summer. Yellowstone, Devils Tower, Ten Sleep, the Tetons....
Not sure Yellowstone has a bunch of great climbing...
The other spots mentioned above aren't really close enough to have a single vacation rental spot to base out of. What might work, though, would be Lander. Too hot for Sweetwater (and maybe too snakey...), but, Wild Iris, Sinks, access to the Windy's. Could still roadtrip a short distance to Ten Sleep and the Tetons. Etc.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Jun 14, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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hit UT for a week or 2 (tops of the canyons, Ruby Lake/Cliff Lake/Wall Lake in the Uintas, road trip to City of Rocks at least just to see it) then head to to Wyoming - Sinks, Wild Iris, hike into the Winds...imho lots of UT just ain't all that in the summer, though Spring and Fall are amazing...
Colorado has recreational MJ and real beer - dunno if this is a consideration or not, but there's lots to climb in CO in the summer that is high elevation and cooler (Aspen Pass, Rainbow Rock outside Buena Vista, Leadville/Coal Creek, Rocky Mtn and Lumpy Ridge, the Diamond if you want to hike and be terrified, never been to the South Platte in teh summer so I can't say anything there...)
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Jun 14, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
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never been to the South Platte in teh summer so I can't say anything there...)
Why?, not knowing anything about what they're writing about doesn't stop most people here from posting.
In fact, the Splatte is not in peak condition in the summer, certainly not a destination. That's high peaks season.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 14, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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"Yes, please, pet me."
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Jun 14, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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Maple Canyon is by far the best summer hang in Utah, followed by Uintas (+++ mosquitoes). City of Rocks is usually brutal. Best plan on some canyoneering/canyoning in the slot canyons (the ones with water) if you are going to be around that long.
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labrat
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Jun 14, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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Salt Lake City would be central to Maple, City of Rocks / Castle Rock, and the Tetons.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jun 14, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
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North Conway is busy in the summer, but really close to a ton of climbing.
If I were a west coast native, I'd want to spend a summer in North Conway to experience the east coast.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Jun 14, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
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so for the decade or so I've been in SLC I regularly buy the ground bison at the supermarket that's from teh ranch along 15 going up the hill...always wonder if I'm eating an animal I drove past when I was in CO ;-) mmmm bison...
there's also Ferguson Canyon in slc, just south of Big Cottonwood Canyon - beware of rattlesnakes (found them on the belay ledge at the chains once - woo hoo spicey !) and sandbag 5.8+s that want to kill you :-)
by far the best in utah in summer is the Uintas imho - mountain setting, lakes to fish, camping, bolts...Maple Canyon confuses and confounds me (those aren't holds, they're half buried billiard balls) but it is definitely one of those one of a kind places worth seeing if you are into that sorta thing, the thing with the rocks an such :-)
(dont worry blahblah - i'll talk sh#t about something i know nothing about soon enough, i'm sure ;)..)
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jun 14, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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Have you considered going to Canada? BC and Alberta are beautiful in July/August. Squamish to Canmore is about an 11 hour drive. In between you have a choice of granite, gneiss, quartzite, limestone, big, small, alpine, and some of the best scenery in the world. Plus mountain biking, wineries, BC bud. Doesn't get much better.
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
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All answers on Utah, thanks. Thanks, if we up there, sounds like Salt Lake or Northern is best place to base camp. Only reason it’s on the list if because I’ve never climbed there, so I’d like t check it out.
I currently live in Indonesia, and climbed year-round when I live in Tennessee, I have a pretty high tolerance for climbing in heat and humidity. Climbing early or late seems to also help. Being in Indonesia, maybe I can hurry up and find myself a second wife before I arrive.
City of rocks, climbed there in the early 90s. (91 if I remember correctly) I agree, great climbing on varied terrain and excellent rock. Just not much to show to my wife from an American life point of view. Guess I could show her Pocatelo, but that where I registered for the Army, so I’m not sure how I react when I pass the recruiters office there.
Washington does have excellent climbing. One of my favorite short routes is there, Outer Space, 5.9. When I climbed there, I met Jim D. and he spent an afternoon throwing rock at me while leading some excellent cracks. He was also trying to convince me to head down to Patagonia and climb.
I love the Tetons, and depending on the winter and weather, it is very climbable in Summer, but the climbing season may not start till the end of July in some cases. I prefer having a bit more leeway with snow. I also don’t think my wife is ready for the combination of long approaches and long routes together.
@Alan, we may have met somewhere along the way. I spent three summers climbing in New Hampshire, based in Barlette. Love the Ledge and I think the whole area would be great for Ernita to see and visit. Plenty to see on non-climbing days in New England, maybe even a trip to Boston. The more I think about where to be, the more I like this area. (Also want to photograph some of the Maine coastline)
Looking more and more like Ernita and I will end up in New England after this post. Fly into Boston and drive to Bartlet. Canon, ledge, white ledge and smaller crags, guess it has everything. Prices are good, distances aren’t too far.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 14, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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Yer too late!
The time to visit Utah was before 1847.
Speaking of which, last year I had a penthouse at the LA in SLC on the north side the night before the days of 47 parade, and we sat on the balcony and were treated to a spectacle worthy of an African safari.
You see it is the one night of the year when all the good mormons camp out on the street to secure spots for the parade, so the SLC cops start rolling up all the REAL street people to sanitize the scene.
It is hilarious from a few hundred feet up because you can see teams of cops maneuvering for "the kill" and it is easy to see who is in for it.
At one point I saw a cop on the light rail platform with a radio looking intently down the track.
I said, "I bet they're gonna pull somebody off the train."
Sure enough, it pulls in and he drags out a ragamuffin screaming about how he is a "sovereign citizen" and about how they have no dominion over him (which is obviously not the case).
I don't know exactly when it is, but if you are around this year don't miss the Running Of The Bums.
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2013 - 12:50am PT
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@Alan,
My wife want to experience sleeping on a wall before saying yes to a real wall. I was thinking The Modor Wall at Cathedral Ledges would make a simple, relaxed and very easy first time wall experience for her.
Short approach, light loads, and a ledge. (Not sure how good the ledge is for two people to sleep on. How is it?
We'd do it casually. Start early afternoon. Stop at the ledge, hang out, eat dinner, sleep. Finish the next day. Probably eat lunch at the sandwich shop in town.
Coming from overseas, I don't want to lug my double ledge on the various International flights. (Enough with climbing gear in luggage already.)
Eman
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 15, 2013 - 09:24am PT
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The time to visit Utah was before 1847.
Gfaw! Snicker! Hee-hee!
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Jun 15, 2013 - 09:41am PT
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ron you've given me an idea for this year ;-) i can look like a bum with relatively little work...
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
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I agree, they is so much to see. Guess that is why my wife and I pick a different summer vacation location every-time we come to the U.S.
Eman
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jun 17, 2013 - 10:47am PT
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Hello Guangzhou, I was off my computer for the weekend, so am only now seeing your posts about your possibly coming to New England. If you do head this way, give yourself a day or 2 to visit the pleasant crags in the woods out here in western Mass. I'm not clear from your post if you would be coming this year or next. Either way send me a PM via supertopo and I could show you around out here. It has been pretty wet so far this month, but living in Indonesia that shouldn't be much of a problem for you.
Alan
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
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Alan,
Summer of 2014. This year, Ernita and I are staying in Indonesia and than heading to Mongolia.
Would love to see some of Massachusetts' climbing areas. In four summers based outside North Conway, I don't think I climbed a single route in Mass.
I still haven't climbed "Crack in the Woods" either. Guess I have a couple reason to visit again.
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