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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 22, 2013 - 12:41am PT
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2013 - 12:48am PT
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Snickers and I tried that .12 undercling that goes left from the lower part of Sag (in the picture) on TR. I never could turn the corner...
Then there's the classic "sand-bag in the name" route: Dwarf Tossing
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/dwarf-tossing/106911856
This route has at least 4 different 5.11 sections in addition to the all points off 7 ft sideways dyno at the crux. If you are taller than 6'6", you may be able to reach past the dyno. Shorter people might find the dyno to be impossibly long.
Edit: Thanks for the link, Darryl - Those are some sweet pictures.
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MH2
climber
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May 22, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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Pictures of Larry Kemp, if I recall rightly, on Breakfast of Champions.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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May 22, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
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Nice photos Andy, those kemp shots are really awesome too. Gotta stop there one of these days.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 22, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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May 22, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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Yep that's Larry in those pics!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 22, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
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Dave Davis, I'm calling you out! Bust out some pics from BITD, man!
I'll send Leonard over to pick 'em up!
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
OK, I've no pride. I was doing an early ascent of Aries chimney. I know it
was early because the lichen was still half an inch thick on the one side.
It was steaming hot for Index, it must have been 80 cause I was sporting a
sleeveless T-shirt! So I got something in about 10' up but due to lack of
technique I got forced further out (of this flaring chimney) than I could
reach back into the crack in the corner. I distinctly recall clouds of
pulverized lichen wafting upwards and getting in my eyes, and everywhere else.
Of course, that was the least of my problems what with a sure grounder
growing more likely. Finally, I got a stubby something into the horizontal
crack about two feet from the top which protected my less than graceful exit.
I think I still have some of that lichen embedded in my back.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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May 22, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
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Andy - Is this the 5.10 part on Narrow Arrow?
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MH2
climber
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May 23, 2013 - 12:03am PT
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Darryl; Hell, no, we did not do that! We probably did Free At Last, at least the 2-bolt face part, which is what I remember.
I think most pictures of Index are Thin Fingers. Here is a sequence of Greg McKenna, starting with re-tie-ing a broken shoelace.
yes, that's where Greg is in photo 3 above
v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2013 - 12:19am PT
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Here's a shot of the upper part of Thin Fingers (crux) from Climbing.com
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 23, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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Jim;
w.r.t the Bush House. I was in Index a couple weeks ago, and guys were working on it and making it look spiffy. They said they were reopening it. Now they just have to start on the Tavern!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 23, 2013 - 11:43am PT
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I'm impressed with the crowd here and the difficulty of the climbs y'all did. I pretty much limited myself to 5.9 and under, if I lead, and there's not a lot at Index at that grade. Now days that would be optimistic. I went up there for a spring tromp back in early April this year. Here's a photo of the Bush House in the process of renovation and another couple other just 'cause. The new play ground is trippy.
I had a nice day in '98(?) when I decided to re-learn aid climbing with more modern techniques, and it was actually the first time I had clean aid climbed. I think I was also still working through climbing without my buddy Matt Pollock (passed a few years before). Midweek, alone playing hooky from work: I rope soloed City Park and everything just went smoothly and fast. I left the rock with that ecstatic feeling that climbing can give when it goes right. Then went to the Tavern and watched Brazil play Holland in a WC semi final. Good day!
(the photo quality gets better with clicking).
Bush House
New Playground
This old chestnut
My humble goal for this season (no shit!). Index 5.8. This and the Even Steven start of Toxic Shock. Like I said, humble.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 23, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
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^^^ Ho, man, to quote Sir Thomas Lipton when he was asked the price of his yacht:
"If you have to ask you can't afford it."
Surely you're familiar with Fred's line about the N Pk route,
"Imitate a gorilla going through the brush."
Or something to that effect.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 23, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
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I pretty much limited myself to 5.9 and under, if I lead, and there's not a lot at Index at that grade.
There is one fantastic route at that grade that deserves your love. One of Darryl's creations called DGS. (Ask him for the story behind the name). It's at the left end of the Upper Town Wall, past Dana's Arch. Three pitches, including one that is maybe the longest at Index. 5.8, 5.9, 5.6
Being old and feeble, I like to pretend the middle pitch (the long one) is 10a, but at Index it's definitely just 5.9.
A really good climb in a great location. And I think there's an alternate finish going out to the right, if you don't want to do the very short little 5.6 pitch at the top.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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May 23, 2013 - 05:08pm PT
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Godzilla is pretty nice. I rope soloed it about 1989. A nice safe climb it is.
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Darryl Cramer
Social climber
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May 23, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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I always loved this photo (by Mike Schmidt)
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 23, 2013 - 05:28pm PT
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What Jim B said about Godzilla!
Quote from tomtom on http://www.rcnw.net/forums/topic/12-dgs-59/ lol
Posted 25 August 2005 - 07:36 AM
Gary and I went up to take a look yesterday. Nice climb! I led p1 & p3 while Gary got the long middle pitch. Definitely could use some more traffic. We did a little gardening along the way. We also trundled the truck camper shell from the first ledge, stacked it along the trail, and carried part of it down.
One note on the topo: The second pitch is more like 160'. I was ###### at my partner for taking my pitch when he almost ran out the 60m rope. Ooops, sorry about that.
We climbed Godzilla after, which to me was harder, so I wouldn't grade it above a 5.9.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 23, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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Everytime I have been to Index it rains hard. Sometimes the rain starts 5 minutes from Index and ends the same difference on the other side. I don't know how anyone ever climbs there what with the perpetual rain.
En route to Leavenworth once we were driving east past Index and my friend, at the wheel, claimed he'd seen a shooting star! He rolled down the windows and we all stuck our heads out. Pitch black. Then we came out of the tunnel we were in and we realized the shooting star had been blazing a chemically altered course through his optic nerve rather than the sky.
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