Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
|
|
|
May 21, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
|
I was fortunate to be shown around Index for a day, with Mr. Donini as my guide.
He took me on multiple classics which were humbling. While he was floating
up superb splitters, I was pissing and moaning my way up.
I was just passing thru, with my wife and kids, on a vacation. I'll never forget Jim's dog, Hubert, a really funny looking type of bulldog, who would saunter up to my face at night, while I was sleeping in Jim's basement.
|
|
Darryl Cramer
Social climber
|
|
|
May 21, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
|
INDEX=> Center of the universe.
|
|
Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 21, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
|
I think you've got that confused with Fremont, Darryl.
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 09:18pm PT
|
^^LOL!^^
Great shots everyone.
Then there's the "Fifth Force" tunnel, photo by Sherri:
I have tried the .12b with the same name nearby - that chicken-head mantel is burly.
Zoom is much more fun.
When I was working Full Jap Gardens, I went into get my shoes resoled at Dave Pages place in Fremont, and said to him:
"Well, Dave - wore out another pair of resoles trying to climb your route!"
Without skipping a beat, he replied: " We were in aiders."
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
May 21, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
|
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
|
Saggitarius? Nice shot!
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 12:41am PT
|
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2013 - 12:48am PT
|
Snickers and I tried that .12 undercling that goes left from the lower part of Sag (in the picture) on TR. I never could turn the corner...
Then there's the classic "sand-bag in the name" route: Dwarf Tossing
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/dwarf-tossing/106911856
This route has at least 4 different 5.11 sections in addition to the all points off 7 ft sideways dyno at the crux. If you are taller than 6'6", you may be able to reach past the dyno. Shorter people might find the dyno to be impossibly long.
Edit: Thanks for the link, Darryl - Those are some sweet pictures.
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
|
Pictures of Larry Kemp, if I recall rightly, on Breakfast of Champions.
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
|
Nice photos Andy, those kemp shots are really awesome too. Gotta stop there one of these days.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
|
|
|
Darryl Cramer
Social climber
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
|
Yep that's Larry in those pics!
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
|
Dave Davis, I'm calling you out! Bust out some pics from BITD, man!
I'll send Leonard over to pick 'em up!
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
OK, I've no pride. I was doing an early ascent of Aries chimney. I know it
was early because the lichen was still half an inch thick on the one side.
It was steaming hot for Index, it must have been 80 cause I was sporting a
sleeveless T-shirt! So I got something in about 10' up but due to lack of
technique I got forced further out (of this flaring chimney) than I could
reach back into the crack in the corner. I distinctly recall clouds of
pulverized lichen wafting upwards and getting in my eyes, and everywhere else.
Of course, that was the least of my problems what with a sure grounder
growing more likely. Finally, I got a stubby something into the horizontal
crack about two feet from the top which protected my less than graceful exit.
I think I still have some of that lichen embedded in my back.
|
|
Darryl Cramer
Social climber
|
|
|
May 22, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
|
Andy - Is this the 5.10 part on Narrow Arrow?
|
|
MH2
climber
|
|
|
May 23, 2013 - 12:03am PT
|
Darryl; Hell, no, we did not do that! We probably did Free At Last, at least the 2-bolt face part, which is what I remember.
I think most pictures of Index are Thin Fingers. Here is a sequence of Greg McKenna, starting with re-tie-ing a broken shoelace.
yes, that's where Greg is in photo 3 above
v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v v
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2013 - 12:19am PT
|
Here's a shot of the upper part of Thin Fingers (crux) from Climbing.com
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 23, 2013 - 11:17am PT
|
Jim;
w.r.t the Bush House. I was in Index a couple weeks ago, and guys were working on it and making it look spiffy. They said they were reopening it. Now they just have to start on the Tavern!
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 23, 2013 - 11:43am PT
|
I'm impressed with the crowd here and the difficulty of the climbs y'all did. I pretty much limited myself to 5.9 and under, if I lead, and there's not a lot at Index at that grade. Now days that would be optimistic. I went up there for a spring tromp back in early April this year. Here's a photo of the Bush House in the process of renovation and another couple other just 'cause. The new play ground is trippy.
I had a nice day in '98(?) when I decided to re-learn aid climbing with more modern techniques, and it was actually the first time I had clean aid climbed. I think I was also still working through climbing without my buddy Matt Pollock (passed a few years before). Midweek, alone playing hooky from work: I rope soloed City Park and everything just went smoothly and fast. I left the rock with that ecstatic feeling that climbing can give when it goes right. Then went to the Tavern and watched Brazil play Holland in a WC semi final. Good day!
(the photo quality gets better with clicking).
Bush House
New Playground
This old chestnut
My humble goal for this season (no shit!). Index 5.8. This and the Even Steven start of Toxic Shock. Like I said, humble.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!