Muir Rescue/Recovery

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Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
May 20, 2013 - 11:14am PT
^^^ This is why I've "quit climbing" at least hundreds of times. It's an addiction.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 20, 2013 - 11:51am PT
Helo making the first pass to check out the situation. Unfortunately a shorthaul was not possible at this time. Fantastic flying and effort by all involved. I cropped the photo to avoid showing the deceased just out of frame at the bottom. If any family or friends stop by this thread please know that a heroic effort was made by all involved to assist.

Again my condolences and perhaps I'll post more later.

Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
May 20, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Good idea warbler, just pick a day each year to close El Cap for people to rap down and trundle loose blocks. Should be a winter day and the rangers are probably needed to keep people off el cap. There will always be stuff sliding off the top, but loose blocks don't belong on trade routes like the Muir. I dont think the idea would be controversial.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
May 20, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
in these days of instant internet news coverage, there seems to be a news blackout on this incident

this is the only report i could find online:

http://www.uniondemocrat.com/News/Local-News/Yosemite-rockslide-claims-life



Yosemite rockslide claims life
Written by Union Democrat staff May 19, 2013 09:12 pm

At least one person was killed in one of two rockslides Sunday on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.

The fatal slide occurred about 9 a.m. on El Capitan, the 3,000-foot granite monolith at Yosemite Valley’s north end.

The person killed was apparently climbing the south face of the iconic stone.

It was unclear if anyone else was injured.

A second rockslide occurred about seven hours later, according to witnesses.

While rockslides are commonplace in the park — one was reported a week ago — slide-related fatalities are not. The last was reported in 1999, when a Colorado climber, Peter Terbush, was killed by falling rocks on the Glacier Point Apron.

In 1996, a Whittier hiker, Hisano Hamada, was killed when a giant boulder crashed from Glacier Point.

And, three people were killed in 1980 on the Yosemite Fall Trail when thousands of tons of granite came crashing down.
SalNichols

Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
May 20, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
The rock is in a constant state of decomposition, and there are loose blocks and flakes all over the thing, some of which are prominent features. When would you consider the task to be complete?

No controversy?

Deepest condolences to the family and friends of the victim.
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
May 20, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
My condolences to the friends and family of of the victim as well as his partner.

Terrible.

Re RP3: my original thought was of that block at 26 aswell but it seems as though its not the cas as the team had apparently bivied at 26 the night prior and the incident happened on the pitch above...

Having said that, that block on 26 NEEDS to go!!! My haul line nearly dislodged it last year which could resulted it a cut haul line adding 200 pounds of kit hurling down aswell as the 80ish pound rock,,,,


phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
May 20, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
It's so distressing to learn about these horrific events.

On top of the upset for the people in the present, just cruelly stricken, it brings back the echos of all the other tragedies in our world of climbing.

I have such gratitude and respect for the rescue people. Thank you.
covelocos

Trad climber
Nor Cal
May 20, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
close your eyes this morning and sing the beatles song "there are places I remember, some are gone
though some remain..." and cross your arms and hold hands with a loved one or partner, child.
I embrace our extended family of monkeys and i love you more.

You capture my feelings exactly.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
May 20, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
Who died?

RIP, whoever you are, and kind thoughts go all of his/her own.

JL
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 20, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
My condolences to the decesed

The family

partner

and all the rest

Climbing can be so cruel

RIP
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
May 20, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
Horrible. Absolutely awful news. My condolences to all involved.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
May 20, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
The belay seen in the picture, just below the helicopter is #26.


There is a small ledge there where many parties bivi. Sitting on that ledge is a huge loose block that is tied in place with a bunch of old webbing. However I don't see how that block could cause this accident...?

I believe the pitch he fell of was the next #27. There are some loose flakes in that corner, just before one of the cleanest sections of rock on El Cap. Here is a pic of my partner on it:


This is extremely sad, yet I'm interested to learn what happened up there.
plasticmullet

climber
May 20, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
Just comparing the photos, it looks like that long block your partner was standing on is no longer there??? Best thoughts for all involved.
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
May 20, 2013 - 12:46pm PT
I talked to Mark a few minutes ago......The large block on the right of the photo... has some flakes stuck in it as you turn it on the left side. Mason had a cam behind one of those flakes and when he weighted it it levered the flake out and the cam came out. He fell past his partner and the block cut his lead line. He fell all the way to the end of the haul line (a static rope) and died instantly upon impact. .... I don't know what to write anymore............
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
May 20, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
:(

thanks Tom
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
May 20, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
There you go. It could have happened to anyone looking at that picture.

Very sad. This isn't a weather related thing, it is incredibly abrupt. These ones are harder to take.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
May 20, 2013 - 01:09pm PT
So sad. I really feel for the deceased person's family & friends. I am glad to hear that nobody else was badly injured as a rockfall like that sould have easily killed several more people.

I have personally experienced large loose features in El Cap & one time on Jolly Roger, I almost rode a huge, orange dagger down the cliff when it expanded on me 3 inches & gear started falling out below me. I was sure I was going to die right then, same scenario as this person on the Muir.

It's a fickle world out there. Enjoy your lives & loved ones while they're here. You may not get a tomorrow together.
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
May 20, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
The large block on the right of the photo... has some flakes stuck in it as you turn it on the left side. Mason had a cam behind one of those flakes and when he weighted it it levered the flake out and the cam came out. He fell past his partner and the block cut his lead line.

Wow. That's a big block that has had generations of climbers nailing, nutting, and camming behind with no apparent ill effect. Who's ever going to guess that 'that' thing would pop? If that can go... it re-sets the bar of what can come loose.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
May 20, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
I'm so sorry. My thoughts and prayers go out to all. This has been and continues to be a tough couple of days. As others have related, I don't know what to say anymore. :-(

Eric
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
May 20, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
I don't think it was that whole block that cut loose Gunkie...but a flake in the crack. Just going off what Tom said...

a horrible freak accident....dumbfounding.
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