Seeking Calaveras Dome Beta

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic

alina

Trad climber

Topic Author's Original Post - May 16, 2013 - 02:39pm PT

Has anyone been to Calaveras Dome recently? I'm planning on going this weekend and I have a few questions.
What's wet? What's dry? What should I get on? Am I right that weather looks ok -- not too hot just yet?
I should be getting some topos from Will Cottrell, as mentioned on Clint's website. In the mean time, I'd love some recommendations for 5.9-mid10 climbs. Also: I used to be pretty good at running it out on slab -- it was all I was good at when I started climbing at the Valley. But I haven't climbed slab for about a year, until last weekend, when my partner and I did the right side of Goodrich Pinnacle. That went okay so I'm wondering -- how does the top of War of Walls compare? What are some other good slab climbs in the area so I can get my old slab self back? Thanks!

snowhazed

Trad climber

Oaksterdam, CA

May 16, 2013 - 03:12pm PT

Last Friday a lot was wet, but it had been raining afternoon thunderstorms for the previous several days. We climbed through it, but depends on your tolerance for seeping cracks.

That day I climbed my first route there Silk Road- so can't help you with your other queries.

Oh yeah- Ellis Rd. is washed out, you have to take Panther Creek

mrtropy

Trad climber

Nor Cal

May 16, 2013 - 03:14pm PT

Lots of good tens on Hammer Dome.

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

May 16, 2013 - 03:16pm PT

jeff, do you climb there much?

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 16, 2013 - 03:23pm PT

I was up there a month ago and Ellis road wasn't passable, good to know its washed out. Save you some drive time for sure. Conditions are probably great right now. Especially in the shade.

I did a number of routes there almost thirty years ago that have probably only seen a handful of ascents. One is called Tijuana Brass. Semi spicy 5.10+ slab route on the Silver Streak wall just to the right of Silver Streak itself. Its in Cotrell's topo's but unnamed. Really quality, easy approach, a touch scary but not too bad.

Another is Windwalker 5.11c, it is located on the far east sector of Hammer Dome on a slab up and to the right of the Sea of Hole wall. The rock on this route is superb and while the 5.11 cruxes are well protected, there is 5.10+R climbing up high to reach the belay. Again, it's in the Cotrell topo's unnamed. He's got it as Route#1 on the Hammer Dome Far East page. Both of these one pitch routes have potential for a more moderate second pitch if somebody is motivated to do the work.

Now that I got that shameless plug out there, here's a few other classics-
Gemini Cracks 5.10-
Wall of the Worlds 5.10+
Beacons from Mars 5.10+
Tits on a Ritz 5.10c
Solar Panal 510.b
Soul Sacrafice 5.10+
Travelin' Man 5.10+
Sea of Holes 5.10

mrtropy

Trad climber

Nor Cal

May 16, 2013 - 04:01pm PT

Not much but I did some over the years, I really need to get back there more often. Kenny I might hop over the pass to Woodfest if I get a chance.

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

May 16, 2013 - 04:07pm PT

there's some good routes a few min. away check out the picture of laines I just put on the woofords thread

alina

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 04:44pm PT

Bad news about Ellis. I called the ranger station and they told me that Ellis road was open and that I didn't need a high clearance vehicle. What gives?
Is the wash-out a permanent feature or is this something that will be fixed?
I heard that the alternative to Ellis is not great.

Also: thanks for the suggestions so far! It sounds like I should spend a day cragging on Hammer dome.

ladyscarlett

Trad climber

SF Bay Area, California

May 16, 2013 - 04:51pm PT

Gemini Cracks 5.10- ??!!!!

dayum, my partner swore it was 5.8 with maybe a + added if your stove broke that morning and you hit the climb sans coffee...

have fun!

cheers

LS

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 16, 2013 - 05:14pm PT

You're right, the crack pitches are easier. When I did the route we approached the crack pitch via Smokes Screen. I just looked over the topos. Its been decades since I climbed on Hammer Dome. Love that place though.

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

May 16, 2013 - 05:19pm PT

Good pics Ken.

snowhazed

Trad climber

Oaksterdam, CA

May 16, 2013 - 05:41pm PT

Ellis is open.... until it is washed out maybe 4-5 miles in. With ATV's or maybe big ass tires and a lift kit you could make it. Panther Creek isn't that bad, no clearance needed, but it takes a lot longer. Took me about 50 minutes from Ham's Station.

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 16, 2013 - 05:54pm PT

Thanks Kenny. Iv'e got some old slides somewhere I should scan and post up. Used to camp down there a lot. Fishing and climbing during the day, drinking and burning fat ones next to a bonfire at night.

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

May 16, 2013 - 10:21pm PT

Panther Creek is almost exactly 15 minutes longer. Been that way many times. Tiger Creek is about 40 minutes longer. Had a friend drive up Ellis the other day, said it wasn't that bad. There's a washout (been there for a couple years) but it's not that bad says he. I personally don't know, haven't tried it yet this year. Cal Domes is almost always about 10 degrees cooler than Sacramento weather. So use Sacto as your guide.
Beacons to Mars is a classic and has had it's lead bolts all the way to the top replaced via an epic effort by a friend and I last year. We replaced the bolts on Sole Sacrifice as well, eliminating the 2x bolt anchor in Cottrels topo and extending it past one more already existing bolt to the next existing anchor above (pitch 3 of Beacons), so you can climb that as a slightly better protected variation to Beacons upper pitches. Wouldn't recommend it though as those first few of Beacons are classic. Sole Sacrifice is classic as well too though.

The single pitch routes Lightning Bold and Thunderbolt are good to go as well and not to be missed if climbing over in that area. The thing to the left of Lightning Bolt (unknown) in the guide is mega runnout and scary as sh#t. The climbings good but the bolts are total crap.

If you're just looking for .9's and easy .10's there are plenty but be careful not to just rush into just any. The upper pitches on War of the Walls are death if you blow it. There are a few 5.7+ish mega runnouts where a fall will result in traumatic injury.

Old Smokey is crap, don't bother.

First pitch of the Rainbow wall is a great low .10. Upper pitches are a fair bit burlier. Gonna go in the shade around 10:30AM.

A couple good routes on the Blockhead (left of Silk Road) are good too. In the shade by 10:30AM.

Sands of Time seems to be a local favorite. I thought it had 1 good pitch followed by lots of OK stuff.

Green sponge is pretty dirty in spots but an otherwise excellent route. Link the last two in the easy 5th dihedral to the ramp leading west (climbers right). You can follow this over to the rappel line for War Of the Walls instead of climbing that BS people usually do to get off Sands of Time via Silk Road. Likewise, I use this exit for Sands as well.

Medicine Man is an easy one for .11 which is why I mention it. It's a few one move wonders followed by some excellent easier stuff except for the French connection which is hard as petrified sh#t, unless your aiding it. It's not runnout at all save for the retarded typical Will Contrived first pitch which has a total WTF section scantly protected (on rappel no less) which avoids a 5.9 section in exchange for a hard .11 section graded .10d where you will take a whipper onto some ledgy stuff. Skip it and run up the nice .9 corner a few feet to the right.

Sergent rock and the Silver Streak dome are all going to be cooking. Hammer dome gets a breeze so you should be ok. Still shorts weather for sure.

Solar Panel is a good one. Its run like an SOB and hard to get too but worth it if you wanna TR some harder stuff to the right.

Gully Cats a turd.

Corn Cobs a turd.

Pressure Wave I thought was a totally contrived pile of sh#t, but I'm just being nice. Not .10b maybe 5.9

Smoke Screen is pretty good and extremely well protected. Sport route like.

Wings N Stings (really slings n stings) is a back killer, good though. Very sustained!!! Yes, there are bees occasionally, wasps really but they seem friendly. You can TR two classic slab routes (squeaks of gold and shrieks of bold) from the anchors if you like. Never done it but have seen it done many times.

Razor Face is a great .10 if it holds. Kinda like Wheat Thin except thinner. It's more like a sun chip really.

Sea of holds/holes whatever, is good for the first two. Then it deteriorates into a monotonous pile of poo poo that is hard to get down from.

Stone Heart is good but really short and not too runnout.

Jungle Boogie, I actually climbed this once... DONT!

All that other stuff on the Sea of holds slab I believe has shitty bolts.

That's all the easier stuff I know about out there except for on Hidden Dome, but that stuff is too hard to describe and there isn't any topos that I'm aware of.

Except this one.

Whoops! edited to include the "Correct topo".

These routes take the Northwest facing buttress on hidden dome you stare at every morning from the campground. There is a killer 170+ft finger crack on a head wall hidden by a boulder to the right of these routes. Never been climbed and is up for grabs. Probably hard .10 to mid .11. It has a massive Poison Oak bush guarding it so I ain't going there. Have at it.

pvalchev

Social climber

Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB

May 16, 2013 - 11:06pm PT

Ellis Road washout is not bad, we took a 3-series BMW through there last weekend. Maybe right after a rain it will be muddy and more of an issue (it was muddy for us on the way down, but dry on the way up).

The first face pitch of WoW is scary between the 1st and 2nd bolts (as in, you'll get very mangled if you blow it). I think it's steeper than Goodrich, and you are using more face holds than friction. The rest wasn't bad. (the topo has the first as 5.9 and the second as 5.9+R, I think they are reversed)

Last weekend was way too hot for me, but Jackson was 94 F. This weekend looks 20 degrees cooler...

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

May 16, 2013 - 11:11pm PT

Good beta in this thread there is...

mongrel

Trad climber

Truckee, CA

May 16, 2013 - 11:41pm PT

Recommendation to head for Hammer Dome is good, as that's where you'll find the easiest stuff. Ask for 5.9 to mid 10 and sure enough you'll get sent to 5.11b R/X (not all that bad for the rating, but certainly not 5.9). Salamanizer's tips are spot on. Several people have commented about upper Wall of the Worlds or War of the Walls or whatever is actually the name: they have some long runouts and the rock is peppered with these great frictiony (some not so grippy) black knobs of various sizes. They're great climbing but falling would be seriously bad because you'd hit many of them, hard. The Cal Dome area was initially developed by some very very stout climbers and lead-bolters and it's only later that a few more modest climbs appeared. Fabulous place, but not easy.

alina

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2013 - 12:33am PT

they have some long runouts and the rock is peppered with these great frictiony (some not so grippy) black knobs of various sizes. They're great climbing but falling would be seriously bad because you'd hit many of them, hard.

Sounds like I'm going to die....

Thanks, Salamanizer, for a very solid block of beta.

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

May 17, 2013 - 03:26am PT

Climb War of the walls to pitch 7 (the last one before the face stuff starts) and walk down the ramp to the first set of bolts leading up the wall. This is the upper pitches of Vaya Con Pollos. Follow this route for a couple more pitches of better protected climbing up that headwall. Even better, if you're feeling up to it (.10c) walk down a bit further and climb that totally bitchin dike of Shaking All Over. It'll be the really really obvious bolted left leaning dike that begs to be climbed. You can lower back to the ledge from the anchors.

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

May 17, 2013 - 11:23am PT

It's not that runnout Ron. There's never more than 15/20ft between bolts. That first mantle is about 20ft off the level deck, but you climb an increasingly steep ramp to get there with just a single reachey move to the mantle. Blow the mantle and you will become a bowling ball though.

This photo shows the bolt spacing really well. About to clip the 6th bolt, you can see 4 bolts in the photo. The only that is out of the frame is the first which is just below the cut off line of the photo.

Here's a photo of the mantle. You can't see the ground but you can get a good idea of where it is. No more than 20ish ft. The climbing to just below the mantle is easy 5th. You make one reachy 5.10 move and do the mantle which is not that hard.

I'm not belittling it, it's still a fairly serious route, especially that first mantle, but not and X route.

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 17, 2013 - 11:47am PT

Salamanzer or Ron, I remember trying to top rope a splitter finger crack on a steep boulder that skippy was calling Dynamite crack. Its not in the set of topos I have and I was wondering if you had any info on it. I think he said Jay had done it. I can't recall but I think it was by Sargeant rock somewhere. Mid range 5.12 or maybe 12+ overhanging and as good it gets.

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 17, 2013 - 12:03pm PT

Dynamite is only maybe 35 feet but damn good.

I did a couple of routes left of STFTHOS. Just left is Walking on the moon. Its shorter than Controls but still really good. Its got some sobering stretches as well, at least it used to. Another one we did is to the right of Welcome named West of Venus. Its got scary climbing to the second? or third bolt but reasonable after that and super quality.

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 17, 2013 - 02:37pm PT

Never did STC but according to what I'd heard from Skippy and others who'd done it back then, it wasn't too bad once you clipped the first bolt. At least compared to the other routes on that face.

Skippy claimed to have done the true FA of STC but never got credit for it. He said its origional name was White Lightning. He told me Jay and Crawdaddy had 4 or 5 bolts in on the first pitch and he actually completed it, and went on to finish bolting the entire route. Iv'e always wondered about this. Maybe Jay or Paul have more info about the history of this route.

I don't know for sure that anything down there has been retro bolted but I certainly hope not. At least not without the consent of the FA team. I'd talked to Will Cotrell years ago and he said they had replaced a lot of the bolts on those routes but I can't recall exactly which ones.

Even still, it wouldn't keep me away from the place. It shouldn't you either Ron. I'm sure there are still plenty of routes down there that deliver if you want to get scared. I for one right now, couldn't repeat most of the routes I'd done down there w/out getting myself badly hurt or worse.

Been telling myself for years that I'd get down there soon and replace some of the old quarters inchers we placed on those routes. Most are spicy enough without the manky bolts. Hopefully I can find some time this year. That canyon is gorgeous.

Salamanizer

Trad climber

The land of Fruits & Nuts!

May 17, 2013 - 04:06pm PT

WHEN did that route get MORE bolts??

It didn't, it's always had 7 bolts on the first pitch. I have a picture almost identical to yours showing the first bolt in the same place. Your leader is standing at the second, he's looking for the third.

Ken, I think I know what crack you're talking about. Don't have time now but I'll respond later tonight.

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

May 17, 2013 - 04:41pm PT

I'm thinking the bolt count debate may just be getting started

Greg Barnes

climber

May 17, 2013 - 05:51pm PT

The right crack of Gemini Cracks is 10- so that's probably what they were talking about.

I replaced the old 1/4" on STCFTHOTS, definitely more than 3 on that pitch, I'd have to go look at my notes but I'd bet Chad is exactly right. Don't worry if you remember incorrectly Ron, you'd join a long list of prominent names who swear they had fewer bolts when every bolt is the same ancient mank and the bolts are at the only stances for miles and the routes were super runout even with "more bolts than the FA"...

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 17, 2013 - 06:04pm PT

Greg,

Kudos to you for doing that work. Those routes badly need it. You guys happen to do any replacement work on West of Venus or Mad World on the Main Dome?

Also, I'm very curious to hear about the FA of STC. Skippy was adamant about doing that thing first. It used burn him up that the name was changed and he was not credited. Be nice to hear Jay or Crawford chime in. Or anybody else for that matter who may have information about it.

Greg Barnes

climber

May 17, 2013 - 07:40pm PT

Easy to get 40 feet of air when the bolts are 20 feet apart...I know I've done exactly that (especially if your belayer doesn't know to reel in some slack real quick...)

Edit: KP, replaced all bolts (21 bolts) on West of Venus, got basically that whole area in '98, Will Cottrell led STC on the old bolts to fix lines then I spent a couple days getting most everything. Not sure on Mad World.

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 17, 2013 - 07:48pm PT

Greg,

Wow! Awesome man. Thanks a ton. That saves me the recon headache. I'll focus on Mad World instead.

G Zeus

Trad climber

Tucson, AZ

May 17, 2013 - 07:59pm PT

KP, you remember correctly. That excellent crack is there. It's farther down the aqua duct. I remember it being rattly fingers; could only get part of my hand in it and lost a lot of skin. But I could be wrong. It's been almost twenty years since I did it.

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 17, 2013 - 09:04pm PT

Sounds about right, off size overhanging slugfest.

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

May 17, 2013 - 10:40pm PT

Ron did you get my message?

Greg Barnes

climber

May 18, 2013 - 12:07am PT

KP, you're welcome. Found the detailed notes, looks like there were 23 original bolts and I replaced 21, removing 1 extra bolt at each of the two 3-bolt belay stations. Same deal on STC - two of the three stations were 3-bolt belays and they are now 2-bolt. I can see why you wanted three 1/4" bolts on those belays!

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 18, 2013 - 04:15am PT

Greg,
Awesome job. The batch of 1/4 inch screw top bolts we used on Venus was softer metal (too soft) due to the fact that Skippy had some studs actually sheer on his FA of Welcome the year prior. I remember the studs at the first belay bending to one side as I drove them in. I think we had a few benders on the upper pitches as well. Always worried about those bolts.

Salamaner,
Iv'e got the bug, hoping to carve out some time this summer. Mad World is a classic and needs rebolting. Cotrell gave it a bogus rap in his topo summary because its extremely run out but like most on that wall, this route is super high quality. I've got gear as well, Hilti with two packs and a good number of bolts with hangars. Not too confident about extracting the old quarter inch button heads we used on that route w/out snapping the heads off though. If you don't mind i'll shoot you an email if I can get it together.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

May 18, 2013 - 04:51am PT

Greg is the man! I may hit Calaveras this summer. Any water near-by?

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

May 19, 2013 - 04:00am PT

Nice Jeebs,
wish I could say the same. Its been ground hogs day down here. The monotony of city life.

M Carville

Trad climber

Nevada City, CA

Jul 10, 2013 - 01:13am PT

The other Cal DOME. HIDDEN WALL.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jan 4, 2015 - 04:46pm PT

Ken,

I remember trying to top rope a splitter finger crack on a steep boulder that skippy was calling Dynamite crack. Its not in the set of topos I have and I was wondering if you had any info on it. I think he said Jay had done it. I can't recall but I think it was by Sargeant rock somewhere. Mid range 5.12 or maybe 12+ overhanging and as good it gets.

I have done this one. My fingers are thin, so I fit it very well.
It's below Sargent Rock, on the approach.
In the lower right corner of this topo/map:
http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/caldomes/sargent.pdf

I think G Zeus is describing a different (less thin) crack near the aqueduct between Sargent and Silver Streak, which is off fingers, and Mike posted a photo of it. Mike called it Staircase Crack.

You've mentioned these FAs:
68. Tijuana Brass FA: Ken Ariza, 1984
72. Walking on the Moon FA: Ken Ariza, 1984
73. Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun FA(first 4-5 bolts of p1): Paul Crawford, Karl McConachie, 1981
FA(complete): Dick Richardson
74. Welcome to My Nightmare FA: Dick Richardson
75. West of Venus FA: Ken Ariza, 1984
132. Windwalker FA: Ken Ariza, 1984
202. Mad World FA: Dick Richardson, Ken Ariza, 1984
Did you do them all with Skippy?
Did you do any others, such as Solar Panel?
This is on my page which I've recently updated:
http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/caldomes/index.htm

[Updated again with Ken's info below, January 6]

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

Jan 5, 2015 - 10:29am PT

Hi Clint,
Staircase Crack looks really good. That's not the same crack I tried with Skippy years ago though. I remember it to be on lighter colored rock and steeper. More of a sharp edged fracture that splits a 30 to 40 foot boulder. The crux is off fingers to thin hands. Skippy said it was at least mid range 5.12 and he was calling it Dynamite Crack. He said he'd thought Jay did the FA.
I did the FA of Solar Panel with Katie Ingalls in the winter of '85
As for the other routes-
68. Tijuana Brass- I did this route with Tim Maas and John Larsen. I remember that Tim was able to just barely keep me from cratering the belay ledge upside down when I took a sliding pendulum fall while trying to get bolt #2 or 3 started.
69. Walking on The Moon- KA, Skippy and his girlfriend at the time Kathy Bennet.
75. West of Venus-KA, Skippy
132. Wind Walker- KA, Tim Maas, John Larsen

Also, Myself, Tim Maas and John Larsen did the FA of a one pitch route in 1985 called Sling Shot 5.10 a/b. The route involves climbing protected by bolts and slung knobs. Its on the slab that starts off of a tier up and right of the Sea of Holes/Wind Walker Wall.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Jan 5, 2015 - 12:04pm PT

Wow - thanks, Ken. Very cool to get the real names after so long.

The boulder crack I did had already been done before and had a 1/4" bolt or two on top. It was very thin and less than 40' - more like 20'.
I wonder if the other crack can be found - it sounds pretty good.
Maybe G Zeus knows it, if it's not the Staircase Crack.

Highgloss

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Feb 23, 2015 - 08:49pm PT

I will be at Cal Dome March 6 to 9 anyone wanna do Sands Of Time? I will lead all the easy pitches.
;0

Trublucali

Trad climber

Gold River

Mar 3, 2015 - 01:34pm PT

I believe this is "Dynamite Crack" located on a boulder below Upper Sargeant rock. Bad need of some brushing...

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

Mar 3, 2015 - 05:02pm PT

Trublucali,

I cant be sure if its Dynamite but it looks more like what I remember. Is the boulder undercut at the bottom and overhanging to the top? Does it appear to be at least mid range 5.12? If not, you might have a new one there.
Not sure that it would' grown in like that but maybe so if its not been climbed on much.

Thanks for the picture.

Highgloss

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Mar 3, 2015 - 06:20pm PT

Anyone been down Ellis road recently? Is it open? Heading up for the weekend!

Highgloss

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Mar 3, 2015 - 06:30pm PT

Anyone ever climb on this little gem, it is just behind the dam at Salt Springs. Google earth shows some possible lines of weakness.

Highgloss

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Mar 3, 2015 - 06:32pm PT

KP Ariza

climber

SCC

Mar 3, 2015 - 07:19pm PT

When I was down there a lot word was that Bob Parrot did a 5.11/5.12 route on that dome. That was in the mid/early eighties.

rick sumner

Trad climber

reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska

Mar 3, 2015 - 08:43pm PT

Yes Highgloss. Climbed up a little over a pitch with Smith and Obanhein in 1980. We were in a steep corner with a sizable roof above climbing via liebacks and stemming. The crack eventually pinched down smaller than fingers and lack of pins and bolts forced retreat in the face of some very runout 5.11 above. I dont know if those guys ever went back, I didn't.

Highgloss

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Mar 3, 2015 - 10:02pm PT

Epic. Thanks for sharing!

Trublucali

Trad climber

Wilton

Mar 3, 2015 - 10:04pm PT

Ellis Road's open...last weekend though I drove through several inches of fresh snow, not doable w/o 4x4. It melted off during the day and was not in the Valley proper. Climbing on Cal Dome would be quite a cold adventure at this time...keep that in mind.

JS

Hickicick

climber

Mar 25, 2015 - 10:52am PT

Any updates on conditions for the road and the rock?

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Mar 25, 2015 - 12:06pm PT

Both are present. :)

Hickicick

climber

Mar 25, 2015 - 09:28pm PT

Thanks breh. I guess more specifically I was wondering if ellis road was good to go. Should be heading in this weekend for the first time and I'm stoked!