Baggin a virgin crag FA (tr)

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 74 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 12, 2013 - 09:20am PT
Poor Rick,, has to go to the Leap area tomorrow,, just about THE opposite of atmosphere from today.;-) But hes tough and the shock will not disway his ventures im sure.

Leap on a Sunday? That does suck.

Although, if you climb the 5.4c climbs or avoid such climbs as that your buddy Dan popularized with blazing feats of solo, you will often find yourself alone.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 12:41pm PT
perhpas jeebs,, but there is alone and then there is ALONE. Alone on the route doesnt equate to alone on the whole crag and area as far as you can see. And the rock quality is quite NICE.!
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
May 12, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
Note to self: BRING descent shoes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Or a parachute, ha ha. That looks totally jumpable. I won't steal your routes, just want to huck my carcass off the top.

PLEASE? I'll bring you some beer.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
We actually discussed you yesterday Ammon, when we drove by a high tension power-tower lol!.. This formation could be tough to base from- the top is a confusion of gendarmes and formations and the main wall is two tiers. To get a clean drop would be most difficult.. We have not explored the entire top of the crag yet though..!
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
May 12, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
The summit chickenhead photo sure looks like an exit but would have to throw a rock off and laser it to make certain.

I only need 250' to free fall it or 100' to static it. I could also hang a portaledge somewhere on the face if the summit didn't pan out. I'm sure I could come up with something.

I'm really into exploring new and legal jumps, these days. And if there's good climbing to get to the exit, even better.

Anyway, good on you guys for getting out there and finding new rock.

Cheers!

Edit- Oh, and power towers are great fun to jump. There's one that you can see an arc of electricity every time a jumper leaves the tower and you feel a little shock on the bottom of your feet, ha ha.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 12, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
Ammon, I think there's a crag or 2 in San Diego that could be based, but nobody's done it.

Eagle Peak is one, possibly El Cajon Mtn, both climbing areas.

ECM with a 100 ft dead vertical headwall, maybe a bit more...
ECM with a 100 ft dead vertical headwall, maybe a bit more...
Credit: The Warbler

A section of Eagle Peak with about 200 ft of free plumb line with a go...
A section of Eagle Peak with about 200 ft of free plumb line with a good jump
Credit: The Warbler
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
May 12, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
Hocking, hell yeah you seem to meet all the criteria. Whats your schedule look like. Ron was saying he might be willing to go out again before i leave to AK again before friday. I'm coming back for a week of each month (approx.) this summer and return for winter in Oct.

ClimbSki2, hows it going with your Dad, do you guys want to kick around out there this week? Spotted a fairly good line within our realm.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
May 12, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
Ron & Rick! Thanks for sharing your explorations in kneevada!

Looks like a fun trip and a great time for you gents!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
May 12, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
perhpas jeebs,, but there is alone and then there is ALONE. Alone on the route doesnt equate to alone on the whole crag and area as far as you can see. And the rock quality is quite NICE.!


Yeah, he's not going to get that there. Nice little crag though, had a good time being "alone" there a few weeks back.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
thanks Fritz, and yeah jeebs,, lots of 10++ to 11 ++ that will most likely still be there waiting fas when we finish with it.


and Ammon,, i suppose you could squeeze a hundred feet out of the extreme left side headwall,, but the landings BLEAK boulder infest slope If you cleared the tiered bottom of the crag.. a huge ledge -ramp leads all the way across it ant an upward angle.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
May 12, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
Wow Ron, this is great!
I LOVE to see climbing content on a climber's Forum! Who'd a thunk it? And a new place!!

Great content, great fun, Phyl
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 12, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
Very nice looking granite, for 5.3d. Maybe you sandbagged it and it is really a 5.4b?
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
May 12, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
Not a chance Vitaly, we know are limits.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
May 12, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
That all looks like good stuff. Still haven't been out to the property there, but one day. Maybe next month. Rick, I'll let you know when I do and maybe stop by to meet ya, if you're around. Still got all those damn pins and haven't got much use out of 'em yet.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
May 13, 2013 - 12:24am PT
I was just thinking about you and your desire for aid practice yesterday Hillrat. There is a classic crack climb there that needs to be aided and cleaned before any attempts to free climb it.

Get back into your greenhouse Rsin. Cant put a name to you but i'm well on the way to figuring your game.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
May 13, 2013 - 12:54am PT
We really like camping out in Nevada, and have one or two ideas of potential areas to climb out there. Life has been pretty darn busy with the 9mo child and all, trying to fix the old jeep, and a major drunkfest type campout my sis has been putting on for more than 20years coming up in two weeks. After memorial weekend, we should be a little more available.

Looks like you guys are having a ton of fun out there, and it would be a blast to go and just hang out if nothing else, whatever I could help with and/or learn from ya would be great.

Cole

Trad climber
los angeles
May 13, 2013 - 01:44am PT
That's awesome man, rock quality gets me so hard and looks like you've come across a great stash!
Chim-Chim

climber
May 13, 2013 - 11:22am PT
Nice one gents! This one needed a good shave
Credit: Chim-Chim
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2013 - 11:40am PT
Nice Chim,, brush in one hand jam with the other!
Chim-Chim

climber
May 13, 2013 - 11:46am PT
Ron, this area has the second shortest approach at the fords... the Apron being the shortest. Directly above the parkin area for Strangler Cliff. Three minutes... but not so serene. Cars and some camp noise.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 74 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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