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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 11, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
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I was looking through past threads on bivy sacks and didn't see this specifically addressed. To those who have the Bibler/BD Big Wall Bivy bag, is the external tie-in really that useful?
I'm looking into a new all-purpose bivy sack and have heard good things about the Big Wall, but it appears to be the a more expensive version of BDs regular hooped bivy. Is the Big Wall version worth it or is it just a $100 gimmick?
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Strider
Trad climber
ಠ_ಠ
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May 11, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
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I have the original Bibler Hooped Bivy Sack (no tie-in) and have spent over 15 nights on a wall with it and over 200 nights on the ground with it. The tie-in point is pretty much a gimmick in my opinion.
Every night I spent on the wall I always stayed tied in with the rope, cloved to the anchor. I am trying to imagine how I would do it differently with the fancy tie in point and it doesn't make sense. I would have to:
 back myself up with slings
un-tie from the rope
secure the rope to the outside of the bivy tie-in point
then re-tie-in to inside the bivy sack
then go to sleep.
Too much trouble.
Then, if I want to get out of the ledge in the middle of the night to piss I would either need to make sure my inside tie-in point is LONG or I would have to reverse the whole process. Again, a pain in the ass.
And for the nights that I didn't deploy the bivy sack and kept it close just in case, what do I do if I need to get inside in the middle of the night? I will be so tired, I'll just stay tied in and slip into the sack, screw the tie-in point.
Now that aside, I would HIGHLY recommend the BD Hooped bivy if it is anywhere as close in quality to the Bibler. It is small and takes some getting used to but it is the best, warmest, most leak proof bivy I have used on the wall and off.
Cheers
-n
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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May 11, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
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I use to use Integral Designs Salathe bivy sack. It saved my butt and kept me dry on a heavy down pour one night on Half dome. I was getting run off pouring on me and I stayed relatively warm and dry. I too did not loop tie my bag. I also clove hitched myself via webbing. I think that was how most moisture got inside my bag. I also seam sealed my bag prior to our climb.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 11, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
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Clip-in loop through the side is totally a gimmick. I have never used it.
Imagine what would happen if you actually fell off your ledge, and you were tied in that way??
I just run my tie in out of the sack the same way that I get in.
Also, I never wear my harness at night on the wall. I take a double length sling, girth hitch it round my waist, tie an overhand knot in it, and add a few more girth hitched slings of the appropriate length to give me the correct degree of freedom but without too much slack.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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May 12, 2013 - 12:47am PT
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Gimmick. Also, the Bibler is a real SOB to get in/out of in a portaledge. Find a bivy sack with a diagonal opening, or something better. I've done maybe a dozen nights in my Bibler on big walls, and have gotten to hate it.
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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May 12, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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I have been using a Marmot Alpinist bivy for the past few years, and I like it pretty well. No bug net, but I read about someone who rigged one that velcros in.
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WanderlustMD
Trad climber
New England
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Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
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Cool, that's pretty much what I was thinking. I will look into those other bags. Cheers!
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