Here for May, time to play...no dogs around but bears abound

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donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Original Post - May 4, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
Nicey ensconced in Yosemite West...my young partner's first real trip to the Valley. Opening salvo the last two days was the NEB of HCR and the Steck/Salathe. Rest today then Good Book tomorrow and Moratorium/East Buttress link up on Monday....weather permitting.

So nice to have a hot shower and warm kitchen at hand....my dirt bagging days appear to be over.

George arrives the middle of the month.....let the party begin!
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
May 4, 2013 - 02:45pm PT
Wish I was there.

Arne
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 4, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
welcome home
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
May 4, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
You just braggig ;)

No pics?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Guess it does sound a bit that way Moose....just super excited to be here for my first extended stay since 1976. Ed understands. Also, nothing special in those climbs i mentioned.
Usually don't take pics on climbs that have been documented ad nauseum.
sibylle

Trad climber
On the road!
May 4, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Hey, I hope to get to the Valley some time in the next week or so ... would love to climb on a day when you need a partner.

hossjulia

climber
May 4, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
donini's in the valley, oh man, the yunguns better step it up!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 4, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Donini is my hero!
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
May 4, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
Ferret and I will be there next week...hope to see ya!

Susan
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 4, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
Not Always Two By Two

His body’s animals are cold out there—let them come in.

These fauna of teeth and lips graze silently in the shade of his hoody.

The horns of his hair shock you; his chameleon eyes, they surprise you through their windows.

Green—blue--green again. Gray all the way, like his hair.

That nose, though, it’s like a giraffe, an awkward beast fit to rub the ceiling of a great roof in a holy place like a catacomb built for two million.

Limbs like snakes, wrapping around himself and then windmilling to get the blood rushing as he wakes from hibernation.

While I am invading the privacy of his meal like a jay, he makes raccoon hands while he washes salad for breakfast.

He has the brain of an elephant, remembering everything he ever ate or climbed or f*#ked.

His animals of body are a welcome exhibition, a body zoo, among the plethora of herds of tourists here to watch not him but, rather, the waterfalls moult.

He is in possession of the house--shall we turn them loose?
--Ripped from William Leo Coakley's short poem from the 60s, Invasion of the Animals, and blatantly
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
May 4, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
where is El Cap Pics?

polishing those lenses i hope,

SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
May 4, 2013 - 07:22pm PT

Stayin' in the Ahwanee, Jim?
When's the Nose in a day on?
Have fun!!!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
May 4, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
awesome
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
May 4, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
May the 4th, be with you!!

Credit: Jaybro
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
May 4, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
Glad to hear you're in the valley Jim!

Sent you a message last week regarding your upcoming event, hoping to make it out there but it depends on the day. Climb hard and keep us updated!
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
May 4, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
it's not Alaska or Patagonia, but it's still pretty cool

have fun
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
May 5, 2013 - 09:54am PT
Mr Donini, Sir.
When you get a few minutes will you please share with us your motivation
to continue climbing at your age and after what more than 50 yrs. at it.

My motivation to climb was and always has been to have fun, nothing to do with staying in shape or proving anything to myself or others, just to have FUN.
Is it still fun for you?

Have you ever taken a long hiatus from climbing then returned to it?
I was out of the game for 30 yrs., life events/responsibility, etc got in the way.

By the way, you must have a wonderful wife that allows/encourages you to follow this path you have chosen. My wife has put up with 33 yrs. of my crazy antics.

Any passions outside the climbing relm that you persue with such vigor?

Best to you and George, I'm pullin for ya!
Tad


The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 5, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
Was looking forward to something from you...

Don't forget to place protection while you're racing up those training routes - you're not a kid anymore

Tear it up ol' buddy, wish I could get up there to see you
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
May 5, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
Hey donini its the people, not the routes, what make the pictures.

I'm just saying...

DMT
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
May 5, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
Cool to have you in the Valley for an extended time and not just a quickie show and out! I will be coming up, for the season, in two days and perhaps will see you around the cafe or more likely at the ElCap Bridge!
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
May 5, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
Jim, safe climbing.

and yeah, rub it in my face. I haven't Valley climbed since 1985. hah hah.

Truly hope you have a good time, but curse you, your routes have always been difficult to me, mostly.
Tami

Social climber
Canada
May 5, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
I just wrote "Yosemite West" in a cartoon :-) . Now my cat is lying on it. The cartoon thattiz.

Oh, hey, Jim you suck !!!! HAHAHAHAAHAAH!!!!!! Grin, ha ha hee hee hee.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 5, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
Hey, say the magic word. Rental.

http://www.gousacamping.com/index.php/park-owners/scoresheet?gclid=CNOfh9jG_7YCFeU5QgodAk0A1Q

I had NO RESERVATIONS about placing an ad for these guys. They are CMac-approved.
Bob Palais

Trad climber
UT
May 5, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
I'm thinking about heading out there now that the semester is over.

> "Is it still fun for you?
> "By the way, you must have a wonderful wife..."

While Jim is surely out climbing, I met Jim when he was hitching up Flagstaff Mt about 1978. Then and more recently on climbs in the Tetons, there is no doubt that sharing his pure joy of climbing with new and old friends is at the heart of his motivation. `You haven't done the Open Book? You've gotta do it! We're going tomorrow... you guys should come do it too!' And he was so right, it was great fun.

And yes, Angela Is wonderful and she seems to be out there enjoying the mountains and as a part of the community herself. I saw there was a happy birthday Angela thread on here a while back!

Magic Ed

Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
May 5, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
You should get as many photos as you can--even on 'trade' routes.

Just curious why you mention dogs??
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
May 5, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
Jim is definitely a cool guy, and a big inspiration to me.

I have a climbing partner in his 50's, and another is 73 and has a lot of routes in Red Rock with his name on them. I consider it a huge privilege to be able to climb with them. Wendell, the elder partner, can teach me more in an hour of talking then I can learn in a month on the rock. I'm glad that there are people like that, that are willing to climb with you and share their knowledge.

I met Jim for the first time at Facelift a few years ago. We got to talking, and he has the stoke level of a teenager which is awesome. Then he says "we need to go climb sometime!"

Uh, seriously? I told him that I'd probably bore him to tears as I'm a low level fair weather type. His response was "Eh, you climb with Cosmic, that's good enough for me!" Made my day haha.

People like Jim are far and few between. Stoked to see him back in the Valley and gearing up for stuff I couldn't imagine doing. Get some!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
Did the Good Book today...doesn't look like anyone has been there for quite some time, first pitch very vegetated.
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
May 5, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
Jim,

You are a machine!!

I spent the day on Cathedral yesterday. The weather up here is unbelievable--much like the Valley. Crystal clear-low humidity, and about 60-70-F.

Too bad I'll miss you--arriving on June 12th.

Have fun!
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
May 5, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
YER GONNA......

















































....SEND!
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
May 5, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
Jim, that route has been avoided since rockfall was active there in the recent past....thus the veggies.

Glad you got that in though....a fine Valley classic!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
May 5, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
Mr. D,

What was your time on the SS? How fast do you plan on doing it the next time around?
Paco

Trad climber
Montana
May 5, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
Rockfall on old, neglected classics? Donini's got a new helmet. Rocks beware.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
May 5, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
Glad you had fun on The Good Book. I remember loving that route. Won't go near it now, too much rockfall. Saw a big one come down there just a few weeks ago.
Chim-Chim

climber
May 5, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
Why are there so many climbers from Colorado in Cali but few Cali climbers in Co.?
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
May 5, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
^Why leave Disneyland to go to the traveling circus?
Chim-Chim

climber
May 5, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
To quote Petch... notsocolorado.:0
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
May 7, 2013 - 02:08am PT
That sez it all Chim-Chim,.: Ooo
Double D

climber
May 7, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
Impressive... please let us know how your NIAD goes.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
May 7, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
Jim! Glad to see that all is going well!

Heidi & I had a great time hiking in the Utah desert with Angela!

Unfortunately, as you know------after two fun days of safe & sane hiking, we got rained out on her birthday.

Angela.
Angela.
Credit: Fritz

Heidi & Angela hiking.
Heidi & Angela hiking.
Credit: Fritz

Angela hiking with a 9mm attached with a bowline, but I insisted she t...
Angela hiking with a 9mm attached with a bowline, but I insisted she take a blue Camalot along for luck.
Credit: Fritz

Angela hiking safely onward.  Can't go wrong with a blue Camalot on yo...
Angela hiking safely onward. Can't go wrong with a blue Camalot on your hip!
Credit: Fritz

It was fun while the good weather lasted!

ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
May 19, 2013 - 01:07am PT
bump
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
May 19, 2013 - 06:00am PT
Safe and happy climbing Jim. Best wishes.

The Good Book, I'd love to do it someday, but...

Kevin, weren't you on the FFA of it?
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